Leo Bodnar Shift Lights and controllers

[Brian Clancy]

This is the place for all things 'Leo Bodnar'

 

[Nicholas Chong]

Anyone here still waiting for the sli-f1 that Leo showed quite a while ago?

 

[n24re]

I am a bit curious myself as to what happened with this project. It looked nearly complete.

 

[Trevor Carter]

Rami.

Thanks very much, that is an awesome solution. Do you know what wheel mod that guy is adding?

 

[Rami Kaukola]

Rami.

Thanks very much, that is an awesome solution. Do you know what wheel mod that guy is adding?

Yes I know its Simulaje QUICK RELEASE System its cost 90€ + shipping.I got my QR last week
Here is the site you can bye hole wheel!!!!
http://simulaje.blogspot.fi/
Here is my wheel!I did every thing my self.

 

[Trevor Carter]

Oh my god he that QR system makes it possible for the Thrustmaster F1 wheel to be added. Going to stop my project and buy an F1 wheel and place the QR on that. Thanks again Rami

 

[Chris Knight]

rami weres the store for the qr system

 

[Rami Kaukola]

rami weres the store for the qr system

Hi send him a message jzfilms@hotmail.com or look at his site http://simulaje.blogspot.fi/

 

[SergioCarr]

Great thread well I got to it thanks to Mr.Pibb, though he kinda tricked me I'll explain:

I finally got my rig and my racing corner ready ... this was the main step! I was tired of assembling and unassembling wheel and pedals and moving all around every time I wanted to drive ... so now that that's dona (I attach some pics) it was time to start improving my driving hardware: I own a real old and kinda sheety Logitech Momo Racing Force Feedback .. that's where I got tricked by Mr. Pibb ... not the G25 model no .. the original one!

So let's forget the pedals, cause they are really bad (I'll just do a quick spring mod till I get money to buy the Fanatec V2's) and center on the wheel which I think it's still usable. I was thinking of doing a mod with Leo's SLI-M when I found Mr. Pibb's sketch loved it ... unfortunately it's not my wheel but I still think it can be done, although the insides are totally different the outer look is the same so the final look could also be the same!

Now some questions for Mr. Pibb, if you please!
Did you leave the original board for basic wheel commands? turning, shifting FFB. I was thinking of doing that, even shifted some of the wheel buttons to the base already (see attached pic) cause I'll have 8 free button contacts on the original Logitech board.
What kind of material did you use for the main wheel panel?
Where did you get the nice knobs and the scale stickers for the rotaries?
What kind of push buttons did you use? The nice but very expensive from Leo's site? or did you find a cheaper solution?
Now just out of curiosity what are the B1 and B2 buttons for?

Regarding the USB cable issue I think I won't have a problem with that since my wheel is only 360º capable, which I think is more than enough (never really understood the 900º chase issue).

Now for the software I haven't tried it yet but I think Fanaleds would cover all the problems mentioned here ! It was firsly made for Fanatec products but they updated to lots of controllers, namely Leo's stuff; the main guy was even at Leo's near Silverstone so I think it's the best software for the SLI boards.

Hope to get some comments I am really exited about this project.

Sergio Carretas

 

[Mr Pibb]

Hi SergioCarr.

You probably should make your own thread, and keep this one clear for Leo related stuff. Sounds like you have a plan...

Your wheel is the same as mine. I have merely mounted my momo hub/rim onto a G25 FFB base. I love the way the momo wheel feels in my hands, so when I upgraded the momo to a G25 and found I hated the G25 rim, I decided to bolt my old momo wheel onto the new G25 base. So it's the same wheel as yours, just on a G25 FFB unit.

I didn't use any of the original board at all. I hollowed out the inside of the hub. I could do this because I was mounting it on a G25 base. The G25 has it's own shifters and switches independent of the wheel hub. I didn't need to keep the momo shifters/micro switches etc, so cut all of that out of the hub. It is totally hollow. I just made up a new front panel which is oversize of the original. It is oversize at the top only - where the rpm lights/ 2 white buttons are.

The front panel is made out of laser cut plastic. It's made as a sandwich of layers: ABS layers at the back, then a sheet of paper with a design printed on it (the carbon effect/momo logo) then a layer of clear plastic over that (PETG), then 2-tone acrylic over that again. The 2-tone acrylic is black on top with a white core. By laser etching the black top layer (which is very thin), the white core is exposed below. This is how the writing on the front panel is achieved. They are not stickers. It is laser etching on a 2-tone acrylic. They're impossible to rub off!

The whole thing is powered by an SLI-M unit. That is mounted inside the hollowed out hub.

The buttons are reasonably cheap. You can get them here: http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/push-button-switches/3731662/ The buttons have a thread and nut. So they're used to hold the layers of plastic together. The layers are effectively bolted together by 8 bolts! It is VERY robust.

There's a great selection of knobs here, and they're cheap plus you can order just one (no minimum order quantity): http://www.banzaimusic.com/Knobs/

I use buttons 1 and 2 for KERS and DRS in F1 racing game. But they can be anything you like. I use Joy2Key software so I get get-strokes from all the buttons. The NAV button is a 4-way mini-toggle used for menu navigation.

If you want more pics of it's construction I can post some. Just let me know what you want.

By the way, USB cable can twist 900 degrees quite happily, if there's some slack in it.

 

[SergioCarr]

Thanks for the info Mr Pibb appreciate! The knob site is fantastic; as for the buttons I didn't like them so much ... we'll see. The problem with this project is I have no other wheel, so when I start it's got a be fast, that's why I'm gathering as much info as possible before. Since I will keep the Momo wheelbase your drawings and pics won't help me much. My idea is to change the rim itself as little as possible, just the final panel. Also I have no access to laser cutting tecnology so it's got a be hand made. I think I'll go for the carbon lookalike ABS for the main panel, only; no multiple layers. It won't look as good as yours but it'll do

I'll probably order my SLI next month and start the project then, until then I'm starting on a button box with and old Sidewinder Wheel controller and I'm having some doubts but I'll post them on a new thread and return to this one when I have my Leo SLI-M

Regards and happy holidays to all!