leo bodnar interface

rizzee

100RPM
Oct 1, 2012
179
35
36
hey all ive installed the leo bodnar cable and im looing at the interface and i can see on the calibration that the gas and brake are fluctuating is this a normal thing as its more sensitive now?
 

eSEA One

ESEAone
Premium
Jan 24, 2014
497
308
56
To fix all the pots related issues you can replace them with magnetic Hall sensors. These are tiny sensors that need a little work to mount (positioning brackets and magnets are needed) but connect to the same wires as the pots.
 

rizzee

100RPM
Oct 1, 2012
179
35
36
To fix all the pots related issues you can replace them with magnetic Hall sensors. These are tiny sensors that need a little work to mount (positioning brackets and magnets are needed) but connect to the same wires as the pots.
yea thanks for the advice but to be honest i think im just gonna buy some fanatec pedals because im sure that when im on straights my car is not going as fast as it should because the brake is slightly on...and i proved that point to myself just now when i used the crappy pedals i got with my thrustmaster t300 and i was goin 2 secs faster a lap.
 

eSEA One

ESEAone
Premium
Jan 24, 2014
497
308
56
yea thanks for the advice but to be honest i think im just gonna buy some fanatec pedals because im sure that when im on straights my car is not going as fast as it should because the brake is slightly on...and i proved that point to myself just now when i used the crappy pedals i got with my thrustmaster t300 and i was goin 2 secs faster a lap.
That is easy to fix! first of use the Leo Bodnar Utilities & Configuration Software
Calibration-DFP-G25.exe. With this you can sort it out then also from Leo Bodnar use this DIView.zip to fine tune your pedels to exactly how you wan it.

My mods on the G27 are
  • GTEYE spring (stiffens and progressive spring, during the first 1/2 to 3/4 of the travel)
  • DIY silicone core for the center of spring (prevents spring bottoming out and gives that progressively stiffness a real car brake has, the last 1/1 of the travel)
  • Hall sensors (see post #3)
The hall sensors are not a must but saves you the maintenance of analog pots.
These all were small investments for the big results they offer. I do not say that the fanatec pedals are bad but hey if you do get some your old pedals are a good back up
 

rizzee

100RPM
Oct 1, 2012
179
35
36
That is easy to fix! first of use the Leo Bodnar Utilities & Configuration Software
Calibration-DFP-G25.exe. With this you can sort it out then also from Leo Bodnar use this DIView.zip to fine tune your pedels to exactly how you wan it.

My mods on the G27 are
  • GTEYE spring (stiffens and progressive spring, during the first 1/2 to 3/4 of the travel)
  • DIY silicone core for the center of spring (prevents spring bottoming out and gives that progressively stiffness a real car brake has, the last 1/1 of the travel)
  • Hall sensors (see post #3)
The hall sensors are not a must but saves you the maintenance of analog pots.
These all were small investments for the big results they offer. I do not say that the fanatec pedals are bad but hey if you do get some your old pedals are a good back up
back up pedals...are you saying the fanatec pedals are not reliable?
 

eSEA One

ESEAone
Premium
Jan 24, 2014
497
308
56
back up pedals...are you saying the fanatec pedals are not reliable?
No! not at all, I do not have Fanatec, but from what I see on forums they too have their issues sometimes. If I had a set I would be inclined to work with the manufacturer's on any issues, due to the price and not like my G27's where I will hack and patch as things arise, hey the whole G27 wheel, pedals and shifter were cheaper than the Fanatec pedals alone:confused: