Still trolling the iRacing articles I see...when iRacing 2.0 is announced, I’ll message you personally. Until then, the rest of us are having fun racing against similar paced people several times daily, so stop being so predictable on EVERY iRacing thread, it’s getting oldStill a 2008 engine simulator. I am waiting for iRacing 2.0.
EXACTLY! iRacing is just like the iPhone, a lot of hype and "speshulness" because if you're paying that much, it better be good or you're a fool lolYou ignore the words of champion drivers who literally say that iRacing's tire model is ****, and instead parrot the marketing claptrap of people who are
sellingrenting you something.
Online racing and good competition systems - yes!In which department?
Physics/Tyre Physics? No.
Graphics? Lol, no.
Exactly! Some people expect miracles when they really need to try rational thinking and self analysis.Online racing and good competition systems - yes!
Their netcode is quite good, but trying to synchronise a online session with somebody from a small town in the back of Europe sitting at a low bandwith connection over Wifi to someone sitting next to the Internet Exchange in Amsterdam with a high bandwith optical connection, packages can get lost for half a second sometimes before they arrive at the server.
In the meanwhile that server need to predict where the car is at that moment - at 200 miles an hour.
Together with a bunch of other parameters.
And feed all of that back to the clients (with the same sub optimal connections).
Really??? They finally release Long Beach???This came out of nowhere, Pratt & Miller has given iRacing a hard time in the past not allowing to release a C7R variant. This'll be a fun season with Hockenheimring, LMP2 and now this. I'M BUYING THEM ALL!
Hopefully they're going ahead with finishing up Long Beach, they somewhat hinted about it a month ago.
8Mb/s (that's 1MiB/s) is still plenty for any racing sim netcode. It's about latency, not bandwidth. I'm always on WiFi and don't experience lags in any sim, even on iRacing when connected to US servers from Europe(pings are a little higher, but not a problem even with close fights). Only remember two times within last few years I had to reboot my router because I was lagging.only AFTER I upgraded my internet from a 8Mbit (on a REALLY good day) wireless connection
Agreed. I am not a rabid iRacing fanboi, as a matter of fact I would rather use rF2 for the league that I am in. When I first got iRacing I hated it because of the tire model. My plan was to never go back. Then my league, which I have been part of for years, decided to go to iRacing in hopes of attracting more participants. Begrudgingly I re-upped.Looking forward to this and the new LMP2 as the C7R was always one of my favorite GT cars in other sims.
iRacing is really not as bad as some people make it out to be...I used to think similarly, but it’s actually quite decent once you know how to adjust each car’s brake pressure and FFB level. Without adjusting the brake pressure, people lock up much faster than other sims that give you this option in the UI, but lockups are recoverable most times once adjusted.
Beyond that, the FFB is one of the best IMO in terms of communicating what’s about to happen with the car...if you have a good enough wheel, calibrate it right (every car requires a different FFB gain) and stop fixating on “oh it’s only 60Hz, bigger is better” logic, it’s actually quite enjoyable. The damage model is also one of the best, and I’m comparing to all the titles I own (basically everything except Live for speed, PC3 and Beam.NG).
Yes the pricing model sucks, will never argue against that point, but it does everything else better than most. 10 years ahead? not a chance, it holds its own.
Still trolling the iRacing articles I see...when iRacing 2.0 is announced, I’ll message you personally. Until then, the rest of us are having fun racing against similar paced people several times daily, so stop being so predictable on EVERY iRacing thread, it’s getting old
Question regarding this....STEP 1: How to calibrate iRacing's FFB
iRacing's FFB setup is not as straightforward as other sims (you have to change the gain for each car) but I promise you this makes a world of difference in feeling what the car is doing. iRacing doesn't apply compensation for differences in forces at the steering rack as some sims do, where an MX5 has lower forces at the wheel due to power steering vs. a Formula 3 car with higher forces due to no power steering and overall design differences. You have to tune this on a per car basis and the guide linked below explains how.
Follow the guide and do not deviate in any way. If you drive on a Logitech wheel or something of similar power, turn your wheel's FFB strength to 100% (or 107%? I think that's what it was from what I remember on my G27), otherwise, if you own a much stronger wheel like DD or belt driven whels, just set the strength to what you can handle AFTER you've changed these settings.
Here's one of the most important parts of the guide here, but read the whole thing.
My assumption is most people who try iRacing (for a month or two) don't get this part right and then rag everywhere about how bad the FFB is...I used to feel it wasn't responsive too until I did this and it was a game-changer...literally my Road iRating went from around 1700 (which is near the average iRacing driver's rating) to over 3K in no time (high enough to always be in the top splits). It wasn't even this VRS guide that clued me in on this, it was taking the Driver61 Sim racing course this summer where one of the coaches told me on Day 1; the guide above only confirmed it and why it works (highly recommend that Driver61 course btw)
Get wheelcheck and run level 2 and 3 linear min force tests. With my CSL Elite I turned on linear, set wheel force to 6.0 (since the CSL does 6nm) and after wheelcheck tests I found that my min force is 4.0 so I set 4.0 on all cars then figure out a favorable strength on each car.Question regarding this....
I use a TM TX which only produces 4nm, how I've setup the ffb was setting the NM in-game setting to 4nm and used the auto tune ffb option while running practice laps than selecting the use custom controls option at the bottom.
I am assuming your guide is just for DD wheel users as no none DD wheels came handle those Nm for each car?
Ya I forgot to mention I've done that, min force on my wheel is 2 which I've set on all cars.Get wheelcheck and run level 2 and 3 linear min force tests. With my CSL Elite I turned on linear, set wheel force to 6.0 (since the CSL does 6nm) and after wheelcheck tests I found that my min force is 4.0 so I set 4.0 on all cars then figure out a favorable strength on each car.