I disassembled my T-LCM pedals today and discovered that...

as I expected, the mounts for the clutch, brake, and throttle pedals are fundamentally the same, as this photo of the clutch pedal mounted in the brake pedal bracket (complete with Hall sensor circuit board, which screws into existing M2.5 holes!) proves:

_DSF3222a.jpg


While I am happy overall with the performance of the T-LCM pedals, especially for their modest price, they don't fit my 13EEE feet very well. Worse, because the pedal spacing isn't adjustable, there isn't much I can do to improve upon this situation without significantly modifying them.

I'm not opposed to modifying them, but at present, I have limited resources available to me, so if I decide to do so, whatever modifications I make cannot require any machining or welding, as this is beyond my capability now that I no longer have free access to a machine shop. (Note: I'm able to cut, shape, smooth, and finish aluminum, as well as bend it and drill holes in it, but working with steel is a bit more of a challenge.)

Anyway, not having much else to do today, I decided to explore the idea of modifying my T-LCM pedals to make the pedal spacing adjustable and disassembled them to see what Thrustmaster has given me to work with and/or around.

Since I had them apart, I also took the opportunity to measure some things, such as the amount of side-to-side play each pedal has after nearly 800 hours -- !!! -- of use over the past year (clutch = ~.062", brake = ~.033", throttle = ~.125", as measured at the top of the pedals proper, not the pedal faces) and the clutch and throttle spring wire diameters (clutch = ~1.87 mm, throttle = ~1.5 mm, so the clutch pedal really is stiffer than the throttle pedal) and see how many parts can be interchanged, potentially to improve their overall performance via some clever mixing-and-matching.

Which is how I came to mount the clutch pedal in the brake pedal bracket. Although the brake pedal pin has a circlip on each end and is the same nominal 8 mm diameter as the pins for the clutch and throttle pedals, it's ~5 mm shorter, due to the fact the steel brake mounting bracket is thinner than the molded plastic brackets for the other two pedals. All three pedals also share the same plastic bushings, although in the case of my pedals, the throttle pedal bushings have worn noticeably, which is probably why its side-to-side play measured twice that of the clutch pedal.

(While the molded plastic clutch and throttle mounting brackets do flex about twice as much as the brake pedal's steel bracket when subjected to side loads, the holes remain circular, not oval, and the pins still fit in them fairly tightly. I know many people have expressed concern about the long-term reliability of plastic used for this purpose, but with my pedals, the cause of the excessive side-flex of the throttle pedal is due to bushing wear, not bracket wear. I saw no cracks or other evidence that would suggest the molded plastic mounting brackets are being stressed anywhere near their yield strength, let alone beyond it.)

Back to modifying my pedals to make the spacing between them adjustable: If Thrustmaser will sell the steel brake pedal mounting bracket as a spare part and price it affordably, then it'll be a relatively easy matter to simply remove the "guts" of the T-LCM pedal from the OEM molded plastic base and remount them on individual pieces of .25" aluminum plate such that they can be readily and easily repositioned as necessary to comfortably fit any size feet.

If not, it should also be possible to fabricate an equivalent mounting bracket using pieces of .25" aluminum angle and basic DIY tools (drill press, disc sander, hacksaw, files, sandpaper, etc.) for not a lot of money or effort.

I haven't yet decided which route I'm going to pursue, but based on what I saw today, I definitely am going to disembowel my T-LCM pedals and mount each pedal on a separate mounting plate, so I can finally position them optimally for my feet and my sim-rig. 8^)
 
So I crossed the Rubicon this morning when I decided to cut apart the OEM, molded-plastic pedal base and remount the pedals on separate pieces of .25" aluminum plate. Here is a photo of the remounted throttle pedal in-process:

_DSF3227a.jpg


I decided to do this as an easy interim step before fabricating new, sturdier, metal pedal mounts from scratch.

I also noticed several opportunities to improve the pedals' functionality for not much effort or expense (such as adding a hard-stop for the throttle to reduce its range of travel, as well as replacing the plastic bushings for the pedal pivot pins with self-lubricating bronze bushings to reduce the amount of their side-to-side play) so I'll be implementing those mods as well.

The bushings are supposed to arrive tomorrow via Amazon, so with a bit of luck, the pedals will be fully functional and mounted on my stand again by the end of the weekend.

P.S.: I'm also exploring the merit of buying a second set of pedals for parts and converting the load-cell brake from that set into a load-cell throttle for this set ... in for a penny, in for a pound, eh?
 
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Man, you have that " budget pedal set" thing completely figured out. :thumbsup:

I did a similar thing with a ( very used ) set of T3PA pros but with a lower entry hurdle.
The whole set with some aditional parts and a Ricmotech loadcell kit cost me 90€.

As for a pedal stop, the easiest way would be to drill and tap through the spring seat on the pedal base plate, if you can adjust from below.

Carry on Carsten
 
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… replacing the plastic bushings for the pedal pivot pins with self-lubricating bronze bushings to reduce the amount of their side-to-side play) so I'll be implementing those mods as well.

The bushings are supposed to arrive tomorrow via Amazon …
May I ask for a link to the product?
 
May I ask for a link to the product?

Sure: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SLYD55F/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

But don't order them until I confirm they will work (or can be made to work) since I'm not 100% certain of this yet.

FYI, the OEM bushings are nominally 8 mm I.D. x 10 mm O.D. and 10 mm long. The pedal is quite a bit wider at ~41.75 mm and I would have preferred to use a one-piece bushing of that length, but when I looked through the opening, I saw that it hasn't been machined all the way through and there is some casting flash about halfway through it.

Since I don't have the tools necessary to properly clean up the (lack of) machine work, I decided instead to buy the longest bushings I knew would fit on either side of the flashing, which worked out to be ~17 mm. As I couldn't find any inexpensive bushings of that length, I settled on these 15 mm long versions.
 
Man, you have that " budget pedal set" thing completely figured out. :thumbsup:

I'm both an inveterate tinkerer with all things electrical and mechanical and a long-time "frugalitarian" who enjoys achieving more while spending less.

As for a pedal stop, the easiest way would be to drill and tap through the spring seat on the pedal base plate, if you can adjust from below.

I thought about that approach, but the spring perch projects beyond the rest of the base on the under side, so it needs to be sanded thinner to make the base flat (which, in turn, makes it easier to install on the aluminum plate, since I don't need to create a matching recess for it) and I don't believe it will have enough strength left afterward to provide adequate support for an adjustment mechanism.

Instead, I'm going to drill a hole a bit closer to the pivot (in the raised area just past the recessed spring perch) and mount the adjuster there, where it should be accessible from underneath the pedal tray.

I'll post a photo once I have it installed.
 
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Except for replacing the plastic bushings with the bronze bushings that haven't arrived yet today, the throttle pedal is now finished and I'm happy with how it turned out:

_DSF3233b.jpg


I made two other changes, the first being to fill the cavity behind the pedal mount with Bondo. This is a trick from my racing days, where we did this to stiffen OEM engine and transmission mounts as an alternative to replacing them with expensive, custom-made, all-metal mounts.

In this case, I can't say that it's made the mount any stiffer or more rigid, but I had the Bondo on hand and no plans to do anything else with it, so why not? It certainly can't make the mount less stiff ... lol.

The other change was to use the circuit board from the clutch pedal because it has a longer cable and I didn't want to go to the trouble of extending the existing wires. This is necessary because the load-cell cable is short enough that the main circuit board will be mounted directly next to it and since I plan to mount the pedals "kart style" (with the brake and throttle pedals positioned at the far left and right of the pedal plate and the clutch, should I eventually decide to use one, positioned in the middle, where the brake pedal used to be) so the cable of the original throttle pedal circuit board isn't long enough.

Oh and because the pedals will now be open to the air, I replaced the grease at the base of the spring (which will collect dust and dirt from the environment) with a wrap of heat shrink tubing around the first coil, which will likely prevent it squeaking against the plastic of the base.

Now, onto the brake pedal! :)

P.S.: I ended up not installing an adjustable throttle stop but instead added a piece of self-adhering rubber sheet that's approx. .125" thick. Based on my test fit, this positions the pedal almost perfectly for my taste-and-preference, so I choose to skip the extra work that fitting a proper stop will require.
 
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So the bushings arrived. Alas, they don't fit as well as I hoped / expected: The I.D. is sized close enough that it reduces play by approx. half, but the O.D. is looser than the original plastic bushings and, worse, the length is too long, as I only measured one pedal and it turns out the casting flash covers more area with the other two pedals, which I didn't think to measure.

I'm putting this mod aside for the moment, but will return to it later, as it will be easy to implement after I've finished with the primary mod, which is to make the pedal spacing adjustable.
 
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Nice work! This looks like it could be used as a viable way into inverting these pedals as well, which is what I've really been wanting. I wonder if these would maybe work as the stronger base and then if this other kit could be used as well for the mounting and heel-plate:


 
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