RD Series on Simracing.GP

Daily WTCR races on Simracing.GP Weekly GT3 Endurance races on Simracing.GP Weekly GT3 Sprint Races on Simracing.GP Weekly GT4 Sprint Races on Simracing.GP

How to upgrade from G920 - Recommendations?

I see 3DRap also has some very affordable upgrades for the Clutch and Throttle pedals. A Simple rubber piece that fits in the spring housing to harden the pedal presses.
I have been using the SHH shifter for about 6 months or so and I must say I like it a lot compared to my old Fanatec one. The SHH has enough resistance, and the resistance is also adjustable. Its also a breeze to switch between H and sequential. It definitely punches above the price point. Highly recommended.
 

GeekyDeaks

Premium
If you have access to a 3D printer, there are some that may be easier:
Have you tried any of those mods yourself @blekenbleu ? Curious if they are worth it as I have finally ordered my own printer so I can stop pestering my buddy. I'm actually looking to replace the pots with hall sensors, but anything like this is also interesting.
 
If you have access to a 3D printer, there are some that may be easier:

One can carve plastic wine bottle "corks" to suit...
That first mod looks very easy to install! Thanks a bunch man.

I don't know anyone with a 3D printer, so I'm going to research where is the best place to order 3D prints from.
 
For everyone's information, I have ordered a 3D print of Iggy_82's degressive clutch mod on thingiverse:

I shopped around for hours getting quotes from lots of 3D printing sites, but many wanted around $100 to make this relatively simple design. The author of the design said he got his printed locally for $20, so I kept searching. Finally a found a site called www.treatstock.com, where you can upload your 3D print files and they'll immediately send you quotes from 3D print shops from all over the country. I ordered mine, with 100% infill, for only $24 shipped.
 
Dude, your in the military so keep the g920 until it dies. Order the true brake and install that, works wonders and is plug and play. Retired from navy and I wouldn’t take a big CSL on any deployment, but I’d throw the g920 in a bag and take it on the sub or even to one of the narmy deployments.
 
Dude, your in the military so keep the g920 until it dies. Order the true brake and install that, works wonders and is plug and play. Retired from navy and I wouldn’t take a big CSL on any deployment, but I’d throw the g920 in a bag and take it on the sub or even to one of the narmy deployments.

You were able to bring, your sim racing setup on a sub?!? That's hard to believe, man. I've talked to a few submariners, and I can't imagine where you'd be able to install your setup. I won't be bringing my wheel on deployment with me. I've no doubt my Airmen would not respect that.

I don't intend on selling my G920, I'll keep it as a backup. I've installed a new 320mm rim on mine and its working great (although I now have to use my keyboard for nearly all button input)

Since my last post I've received a SHH shifter (which is AWESOME), and I'll be installing my 3D printed clutch mod and Truebrake soon. I plan to start a new thread with my reviews once I've used them for a month or so.
 
Last edited:
Definitely i would have gone for the Fanatec CSW V2.5 as the G920 is crap in comparison , i gave my old G920 to my friend and he was trying to play WRC 9 and he really really struggled driving with the G920 compared to my Fanatec CSW V2.5 he would use when he visited , he said there is just no comparison , the G920 is vague with a huge dead zone in the middle and not precise compared to the CSW V2.5 , so much so that i ended up selling him my CSW V2.5 and i upgraded to a DD1.
The CSW V2.5 is the best wheel you can have before getting a direct drive wheel and with what i know now i would have just got the CSW V2.5 first and been happy with that.
 
Last edited:
I've installed Truebrake, and Iggy_82's degressive clutch. My first impressions are outstanding.

The install took way longer than planned, because the pieces for the clutch mod require mounting the pedal to a new surface (they don't fit in the stock pedal housing). But, luckily I had an old crate, some plywood, and a drill lying around. I successfully pulled off my first DIY inverted pedal setup, as well.

Looking forward to writing a full review in the future.
 
Last edited:
I didn't post the image because I'm not really proud of it, but here you go. Its a total kluge-job because I actually wasn't planning nor prepared to do it. But, I was determined to finish the project that night, and once I realized that the degressive clutch wouldn't fit in back into the pedal base, I knew that the only way was to random pieces of wood to screw together. I also realized that I might as well make a degressive base while I was at it.

Its not pretty, but it actually works great.

20201118_153634.jpg
 

blekenbleu

Premium
Its not pretty, but it actually works great.
Congrats; for those using VR HMDs, pedal looks do not count at all.
Since your Truebrake mod presumably leaves the original Logitech brake potentiometer unused,
consider removing it now, to avoid wear, for use later as a throttle pot replacement if/when it gets noisy,
if you don't go for a Hall sensor throttle mod.

How pronounced is degressive feel with Iggy_82's clutch?
 
Last edited:
I didn't post the image because I'm not really proud of it, but here you go. Its a total kluge-job because I actually wasn't planning nor prepared to do it. But, I was determined to finish the project that night, and once I realized that the degressive clutch wouldn't fit in back into the pedal base, I knew that the only way was to random pieces of wood to screw together. I also realized that I might as well make a degressive base while I was at it.

Its not pretty, but it actually works great.

View attachment 420766


Looks better than mine... Mine are painted now and look a little more acceptable,.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20201017_131601.jpg
    IMG_20201017_131601.jpg
    124.1 KB · Views: 17
Congrats; for those using VR HMDs, pedal looks do not count at all.
Since your Truebrake mod presumably leaves the original Logitech brake potentiometer unused,
consider removing it now, to avoid wear, for use later as a throttle pot replacement if/when it gets noisy,
if you don't go for a Hall sensor throttle mod.

How pronounced is degressive feel with Iggy_82's clutch?
I like the degressive clutch so far. It doesn't quite have the pronounced bite point like a real clutch, but it does have a pronounced degressive spring feel. The degressive clutch really just seems to make the feeling more realistic and enjoyable. The only thing it might help in regards to performance is if you already have set your clutch to a smaller band, it is helpful in finding the bite point.
 
Last edited:
Good idea for the potentiometer. And thanks again for the TrueBrake recommendation. It is a big advantage over the stock Logitech pedal. I know its not a real loadcell, but I think it has to be a far better value, as it works just like a loadcell for 1/3rd the cost.
 
Last edited:

TedBrosby-

Premium
Dude, you made G29 pedals look sharp. Be proud of it. The best solutions are DIY.
I say keep the pedals as is and focus your attention for now on the wheel.
You can do Arduino + D-sub to convert your pedals to USB.
And if you're feeling brave, there's a DIY direct drive wheel that uses a $400 servo motor and flashes the AASD controller with MMOS firmware (what the original OSW's used to be).

https://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/450-mige-direct-drive-wheel-using-mmos-and-aasd.14657/

If you buy the board from Thanos, best part about it is that because MMOS supports G25/27/29 pedals/shifter, you don't need to use the USB connection. You can plug the G29 pedals and shifter directly into his board.
 

blekenbleu

Premium
The only thing it might help in regards to performance is if you already have set your clutch to a smaller band, it is helpful in finding the bite point.
That. Before modification, the G29 clutch just felt distractingly wrong.
Now, feel is no longer distracting, despite bite point feeling less distinct than real clutches.
My non-adjustable hacked metal linkage resulted in a bite point lower than I would have preferred,
but within the range of fresh clutch installations.

it works just like a loadcell for 1/3rd the cost
For DIY makers, 50kg body load cells can be had for about US$7 and combined with e.g. a $5 INA333 instrumentation amplifier
and a couple of resistors to replace the brake potentiometer.
 
Top