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Discussion in 'Stock Car Extreme' started by Renato Simioni, Feb 12, 2015.
Ya, the damn old rattling of the kerbs.
Can't even join Teamspeak because of it being so loud.
Just got my G27. The settings posted here both from you guys and Reiza works like a charm. Just need to find a confortable FFB strength. Sometimes it seems that the wheel will tear my table into pieces.
Looks like I'll need to get to the gym and work out a little to take control over this beast.
The curb effect is the 'Periodic' slider in your profiler. Just turn it down a bit. The 'Constant' slider is more to do with the overall wheel weight.
I do not see those sliders, is this the logitech profiler you are referring to?
Sorry those are from the Thrustmaster profiler. I thought you had them in the Logitech one too.
You can't change the "Periodic" setting inside GSCE so you will have to use the RealFeel hotkeys because that is what GSCE uses. If you look at this thread, in the top post he shows a picture of what the keys are:
They are the number keys on your number pad on the right end of your keyboard. I would suggest playing with the Softer FF Response keys or the More Smoothing key.
Hope that helps.
I continue to have problems matching my actual rotation with the in-game rotation. I've followed all the steps outlined above, using the same rotation in my controller settings (both in my DFGT profiler and in my user data controller .ini file) and rotation in-game, and my speed sensitivity is zero, steering help off, and frame rate way above 60.
Much earlier, when I first bought GSC 2013 I was able to match my rotation; did something change in the way this is done along the way?
Any other ideas at all would be very appreciated. Otherwise, I'll just keep the in-game wheel switched off, heh.
Make sure all the assists are off.
Ok, let me get this straight...
All the cars have the perfect/correct steering lock already set in each's default garage setup assuming we're using 240 degrees lock for our real-life wheel? Correct?
So if I want to use 480 degrees of physical lock on my real-life wheel, then I just double whichever cars' default garage lock is and that'll keep the proper overall steering ratio for each car? Or if I use 720 degreees of real-life lock then I just triple whatever each cars' default garage setup lock is? Etc. Etc.?? Another example: If we use 900 degrees of real-life lock then each car's in-game default lock should be multiplied by 3.75 (since 240*3.75=900), correct?
Basically, every car in game has the "perfect"/proper steering ratio already setup in the default garage-screen setup according to a real-life-wheel setting of 240 degrees. Correct?
From my understanding that is not correct. I believe that reiza has mentioned a 270 degree rotation can work with each car if needed. My view on that is that is because some entry level wheels only rotate 270, and they are saying it can work. The lock for most cars is well off being too low, but not because it is the correct ratio with the real life cars.
The first page of this thread has some of the more accurate lock and wheel rotation settings on it.
Steering ratio is found by taking half the wheel rotation and dividing it by the steering lock. You can reverse this by multiplying the steering ratio by the known lock. So if I'm using a 12:1 steering ratio and I'm using 17 degrees of lock lets say then I can do the following:
With a bit of healthy rounding you end up with a 12:1 ratio with 17 lock using a wheel rotation of 400 degrees. If you want to use the same ratio with 540' of rotation:
or in your case 480':
So you can work the math either to find the right rotation for a given lock if you know the ratio or you can determine the ratio by using a lock and rotation combination. If you want to use one rotation for multiple cars then you can figure out the ratio to use with each and determine the lock that corresponds to that fixed steering rotation.
Generally I drive in the 12:1 or 13:1 ratio. Open wheel race cars tend towards the lower end of ratio while closed wheel often goes to a higher ratio but really its about driver preference. This thread quotes some numbers, take them as you will as I've not checked them: http://www.nogripracing.com/forum/showthread.php?t=199846&highlight=steering+ratio
This is a nice shortcut to save the math. http://steeringlockratiocalculator.com/
I have massive problems with the FFB in this sim (using a T300RS). The formula cars have no force to the feedback at all, I can feel some bumps but there's no weight to the wheel, almost like it's been unplugged from the power source. Tin-top cars felt ok, but last night I fired up GSCE and now those cars feel weird. I got no feedback from the bumps in the road or the kerbs, and when turning the wheel would get very light once it turns past more than 45 degrees in either direction. It didn't feel like this a few nights ago. I tired various rotation degrees in the profiler and steering locks in the garage, made no difference and I couldn't even feel much difference between the settings (i.e. 540 degrees felt the same as 900 degrees). Very frustrating.
I see. I wonder why Rieza just don't set the proper steering lock/ratio for every single car in the game? Just set the default lock as if the player uses 240 degrees, or 270, or 540, or whatever. I know they are trying to code-in an update that will set it all automatically like most games nowadays, but until then, I can't see why they wouldn't do it this way...
One reason they may not do it as with many race cars they can be changed or adjusted. I don't mind if they put a standard and correct default in, but I would be dissapointed if they took away our ability to change it.
I prefer it as is. I'm not nearly as interested in the "authentic" steering ratio of a car as much as I'm interested in the ability to adjust it to my preference. Through this experimentation I've learned a lot more than if I simply had it automatically dialed in. When I play iRacing I don't actually know what the steering rotation and wheel lock of a car is. Its invisible to me whereas in SCE I know because I set it and so I've learned through experimentation how different ratios feel with different types of cars.
Convenience is in my opinion a benefit I don't much relish compared to losing this great lesson that goes with these customization options. I know many would take my object lesson and tell me to stick it up my ass in favour of some convenience but as long as Reiza implements their auto steering ratio thingie in a way that lets me adjust it as I've done so in the past then I will be happy either way.
Or you can just square root the overall rotation:
sqrt of 900 = 30
sqrt of 540 = 23.2 (so use 23 or 24)
This might be a bit of a dumb question, but: how does it handle with a 270 degree wheel? I'm asking because I'm considering a T100 as an entry level FFB wheel.
I think I could live with the low wheel rotation, but I have no idea if it's bearable.
My old 360 Modena doesn't have FFB and is only 180°, but it's kinda fun for a 15 year old wheel that's literally falling apart.
If you can afford it I'd say you should just go for something with greater range. I got a DFGT used on craigslist for $50 and its fantastic with 900' rotation.
That sounds like the sensible choice. Where I live, though, DFGT go for double that sum in Euros.
Well there is the obvious regional market thing both in retail and used. North America has its own general trends that seem to hold true, I'm not sure how that holds up in the EU. Maybe DFGTs were never popular enough in Europe to be so prolific on the used market at such a low price point.
Oh, just remembered that since I might be moving to North America another thing to consider is the power supply. No use in buying a wheel now that I won't be able to use in some months.
Anyway yeah, it's pretty much a tie between the T100 and used DFGT, same price point.