HOLY Shamolee - The Long Requested / Buttkicker Gamer 2 / Simhub Tactile Effects Thread

Mr Latte

Premium
I've been asked for a long time to do a thread on one of the most popular ever tactile transducers.
To this day the Buttkicker Gamer 2 is one of the most considered entry-level packages.






The CURSE OF TACTILE:
As tactile becomes a REAL headache of a topic.

First off, I'm going to simply request that this thread is for discussion only of using the Buttkicker Gamer product line.
This way all users are on the same hardware. It's not, to talk about tactile in general, it's not to talk about other models of Buttkicker or different makes of units and different models or using different amps etc.

Keeping It Simple Guys
So let's focus on and talk about using "Simhub" and getting started with effects creation/tuning for the BK Gamer & BK Gamer 2 models
My hope is people will benefit and learn from this, owners will get involved. People will start to share their own effects, discuss issues, configurations ask questions. I will help what I can and for those that are new to this and using a single shaker or indeed the more advanced users with multiple sets of units installed.


Getting Started:
Tactile when it's working nice can be a great addition but it can also be a troublesome one as these and many threads show regards setting up, configuring, and how to come up with nice working effects. I will continue to update this thread in time with images/info on getting started but I think we have a fair few that are already using and familiar with the software.

(Info on Amp & Soundcard Settings To be Added)
(Info on Windows/Software Settings To Be Added)
(Images for break down on mentioned factors, Master Volume / Effect Folders / Effect Layers)



Featured Effects - Lets SHARE!
Here is my own effects submission, as my first test effects based on ACC and The Ferrari 488GT3
I used this car for creating the files as I had previous effects testing done with this.

My advice is if checking out the effects try them on that sim/car.
People will likely use shared effects for other cars and sims too and that can vary how well or suitable the effects are but for feedback.
I would suggest relating to how effects feel with the car/sim they are created on. To me, this makes sense if someone else creates/shares their own sets to mention what sim/car was used.



What I attempted to do with this set was to bring more to the immersion than an individual or typically used tones have.
Yet also with the intent to make things easy and keep down the number of layers an effect uses. This way we can get more variation in the possible feel and personalize the felt sensations.

  • As a baseline, these are not bad, better is possible with more layers but this being mostly aimed at beginners to tactile
  • I want to make it easier to start feeling or learning how we can achieve nice felt sensations
  • Simple advice, stick to altering just the volumes and not things in each layer's settings if you are not aware of how/what they do
  • In some scenarios with combinations of effects, even a single Hz change can alter how the layers of different effects work together or feel
  • This can be covered if the thread is a success and then we could start looking deeper into each effect's primary settings

Balancing Frequencies
With each effect, I have them simply labeled for easy discussion and in their own folder.
  • Within each folder, I have set out 3 layers for most effects
  • This enables altering the volume of individual layers to adjust the feel of that effect
  • Try each layer on its own, learn what it does/how it feels then set a general volume
  • Do the same for all effects, then fine-tune the volume for each effect folder, to balance the mix for all effects
  • Test and tweak, different cars or sims can vary even with the same settings


Same Effects / Very Different Feel
You can create a volume balance that is more towards the engine or chassis feel depending on what you like. It's also possible to create a volume mix for both scenarios and save these as individual profiles to then use/load as you please.

We all may differ in what, we prefer to represent sensations for different effects, so I welcome others to get involved too.
Personally, I think it's better to use more balanced volumes or try to limit the effects used. Even this set the Engine/Speed effects to keep a single unit busy and make it harder to feel other effects.

These effects have perhaps some potential for easier enjoyment in getting started but the may need better-balanced volume settings
See what you think and feel free to comment or indeed highlight issues.



How To Use:
Simhub can be found HERE
My efforts being shared are like an unofficial help/guidance I am no way associated with the software or its developer. I recommend this incredible software as it is the best option now available for tactile and with many other uses/features. So please consider giving its developer a kind donation.

I strongly recommend also reading any official documentation that is given to get a grasp of how to use it.


NOTICE: The attached set of effects is not to represent ideal/perfect settings but as a starter for people to use and give feedback. If people get involved and offer feedback or share their own effects then I will help with sharing other effects more to what people may want.

My Attached Profile:
*Download File, place it in Docs/Simhub folder and rename from ".txt" to ".siprofile" for it to work as a profile
You should then be able to import it into Simhub.
 

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Thanks for all the help guys. As far as which amp to drive the transducers goes its a decision that has to wait now as I have a problem thats stopping any signal getting through at all. I have sim hub installed and my mate Pete has given me a seat coshion to try out for the moment with Ardunios in it (no amp required). But sim hub is not regonising anything. Does see my wheel under controlers, also have selected correct board but its not recognising that either, keeps saying select comm port, but when its scanning for ports it finds none. Windows is recognising that the USB Ardinio unit is plugged in as it shows in the Device manager, but no drivers installed of course. Am I doing something wrong?
 
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@Wmacky
@Callsign BH
@Biro
@Turtle Power
@anton_Chez
@FireWithin

So here is a revised toolkit to try guys .....
Lets see what you make of this or if its any use?

I'd like to hear some feedback or criticism on peoples thoughts...

This will let you select different test frequencies to feel directly from within the sim you are using, via:

(A) Gearchange
(B) RPM


Hopefully will help people discover what range of Hz you can feel from and too with the tactile you have and what volumes are needed to make these:

(A) Felt
(B) Feel nice
(C) Avoid overbearing peak frequencies or gain settings



Just expand each section to see the various tests it offers.
Then activate the layer for the test you want to feel.


CAUTION USE APPROPRIATELY:
* MAP THE CHANNELS YOU WANT TO FEEL/TEST
* DO NOT BE A PLONKER & START WITH MAX VOLUMES
* DO NOT TRY TO USE VARIOUS OR MULTIPLE LAYERS AT ONCE
* USE ONE LAYER AT A TIME - DEACTIVATE NOT NEEDED LAYERS

Like before, download the below, rename its extension from".txt" to ".siprofile" and place it in Simhub folder.
It should then appear to import into Simhub.

Hi there,

somehow if i load this profile and hit the "test" button there is nothing happening at my buttkicker ? Do i have to change something in Simhub to make that profile work ? (the standrad effects work, no problems with the test button there)
 
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Hi

Gearshift vib`s not as i want them to be..

I`m using 4 mini lfe`s on my rig, 3 under the seat and one on the pedal board, powered by 2 nuke 1000`s.
One under seat is exlusive for rpm/engine vibs, and the other two for rear axle vibs and gearshift. On pedalset its front axle vibs and gearshift.

In iracing (which is my 95% go to sim), i struggle with inconsistant gearshift bumps.
If i use the testbutton in simhub, it also changes alittle on strenght, but not much difference. It always makes a bump on the button, and it seems correct compared to the shown spike/peak in the simhub graphics.
When driving in iracing, i often change gear`s not sensing any vibs/bumps. But i do see the spike in the simhub graphics, so it should have been there...
It can happen during downshift, but more often in upshift. Like sometimes it skips one of the gear`s going up, and other times i can do 4 upshifts down a straight not sensing anything before downshifting again. But the graphics still tells me it should vibrate on all the gears.

Is this normal due to iracing output nature/programming, or could it be noise on the channel/layer or s
I`ve tried to direct gearshift layer out to a exlusive transducer (trying all of them one by one) to eliminate a defect transducer, but no difference.

I also notice a slight delay on the gearshift vibs, compared to simvibe which i used before (dont have the licens for it anymore). Simvibe was instant, where simhub has a very slight but noticable delay that annoy me. A Porsche 911 gtr with a distinct presice kick when changing gear`s makes me smile :)
Any ideas`s on this? I have played around with all the gearshift layer settings, frequency`s and lenght of pulse to get it «ok», but still there`s a slight delay.
 
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Hi guys! Just wanted to say thanks for you're help in here with my questions on Buttkickers, soundcards & amps. I mentioned that my mate Pete had an alternative to try, no extra sound card, amp or anything needed, USB controlled, very low cost and the eaisest hardware install ever. Its absoloutely brilliant, would'nt wanna be without it now! Could possibly use in conjunction with a Buttkicker for extra thud, but think that might be too much for the folks downstairs already. Anyway here it is, thought this might interest you folks:
 
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@Mr Latte do have any pics of your triple layer RPM sub settings? I want to copy it but don't have a way to load txt setups at the moment. Namely the white noise and EQ envelope settings. Like the sub settings of low, mid and high?

Or perhaps a link that explains the logic behind the RPM layerings so I can comprehend it better besides just copying a profile.
 
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Hey all!

**for Assetto Corsa.

Well, after trying other people profiles and generally getting nowhere I've discovered the holy grail - I now know how to get more out my buttkicker gamer 2.

Edit: My old holy grail settings has changed - I now leave amp at default and tune the little beast to death in simhub but I agree with others - too many effects on makes it really muddy so I just use road vibration and also use road impact at lower HZ which seems to amplify road vibration.
 
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I already have a buttkicker gamer and am really happy with it but want to also a buttkicker mini lfe or buttkicker mini convert to the back of my chair to be used just for revs. Both minis are sorta like the gamer (well the mini concert is so I thought I'll post here) so I'm just wondering whether anyone here is driving them with a nobsound g2 amp'? And if you are what are the results like, are you pushing the amp to it's limits or is it cruising along...

 
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Well, now I'm beginning to ask myself which one to go for the mini concert or the mini lfe - have the gamer 2 on the back of the seat and want one of the aforementioned mini lfe or mini concert on the front.

The mini concert is 2ohm as is the buttkicker gamer 2 and everything is spec' is the same it seems but then I read that the mini concert is designed to be in the 40hz-80hz area as it's more "musical" so I'm wondering whether the gamer 2 is also the same as both seem a replica of each other.

Bit worried that the mini lfe will be literally be less bang for the buck but I'm not sure but I don't know why but I'm thinking is it a safer bet as it seems more popular. And then I'm thinking that gamers 2 amp is designed to do it's thing, at 2ohm. But if I grabbed a 2ohm mini concert and used the nobsound g2 amp with it that does between 2ohm (100watts), 4ohm (70watts) and 8ohm (dunno what watts) will it not be able to cope that well with 2ohm and would be more in it's comfort zone at 4ohm.

Mini concert or mini lfe - anyone have any advice which one I should go for? Anyone own both?
 
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Don't worry about the Concert doing 40-80hz, or whatever is mentioned. The Mini LFE will NOT give you anything below say 38hz without the issue of the piston knocking into the shell. I can't see any reason why the concert will not give you a similar experience as the LFE does. They are both the mini versions, after all and shouldn't really have that much different between them apart from the resistance as you mentioned. If you already have a unit that runs in a particular resistance (Gamer 2 @ 2ohms a perfect example) and you want to run it from the same amp, then you're most likely better off with another unit of the same spec. In this case, the Mini Concert. I bought my large Concert over the LFE version because 2ohms allowed my amp to power it with higher wattage, and also because I found the Concert locally at a good price.

I would not worry so much about what differences there are between the models, and more about how it fits into your overall scheme of things re the amp and wiring. In this case, I think your amp might be just enough to power a single Mini Concert. I ran 2 Mini LFE's from 1 SMSL 2 channel amp, but it was rated at 160W x 2 @ 4ohm (not sure if the entire amp was 160W or each channel) and it gave them more than enough power. I think going for 2ohm will maximise your power output which you'll need for a small amp like that. As long as you're not running the amp flat out both at the gain and within Windows, you should be good.
 
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Well, now I'm beginning to ask myself which one to go for the mini concert or the mini lfe - have the gamer 2 on the back of the seat and want one of the aforementioned mini lfe or mini concert on the front.

The mini concert is 2ohm as is the buttkicker gamer 2 and everything is spec' is the same it seems but then I read that the mini concert is designed to be in the 40hz-80hz area as it's more "musical" so I'm wondering whether the gamer 2 is also the same as both seem a replica of each other.

Bit worried that the mini lfe will be literally be less bang for the buck but I'm not sure but I don't know why but I'm thinking is it a safer bet as it seems more popular. And then I'm thinking that gamers 2 amp is designed to do it's thing, at 2ohm. But if I grabbed a 2ohm mini concert and used the nobsound g2 amp with it that does between 2ohm (100watts), 4ohm (70watts) and 8ohm (dunno what watts) will it not be able to cope that well with 2ohm and would be more in it's comfort zone at 4ohm.

Mini concert or mini lfe - anyone have any advice which one I should go for? Anyone own both?

A kick drum or bass guitar will often use the 40-80Hz and why it appears Buttkicker have products targetting that pro music creation/market sector. Also for higher wattage output potential as pro audio amps support 2ohm loads.

With Sim usage, we do not see CT owners mentioning big differences between the LFE/CT ranges. That includes the Gamer/Mini LFE. The biggest factor is the increased felt output with the BK Gamers extended arm but these are entry-level hardware so both are limited in what they can really offer.

Advice, yeah hold off and get the large BK model, either LFE or CT with an NX3000D amp that can power them. Bargains can also be found sometimes with 2nd hand BK units.
 
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Don't worry about the Concert doing 40-80hz, or whatever is mentioned. The Mini LFE will NOT give you anything below say 38hz without the issue of the piston knocking into the shell. I can't see any reason why the concert will not give you a similar experience as the LFE does. They are both the mini versions, after all and shouldn't really have that much different between them apart from the resistance as you mentioned. If you already have a unit that runs in a particular resistance (Gamer 2 @ 2ohms a perfect example) and you want to run it from the same amp, then you're most likely better off with another unit of the same spec. In this case, the Mini Concert. I bought my large Concert over the LFE version because 2ohms allowed my amp to power it with higher wattage, and also because I found the Concert locally at a good price.

I would not worry so much about what differences there are between the models, and more about how it fits into your overall scheme of things re the amp and wiring. In this case, I think your amp might be just enough to power a single Mini Concert. I ran 2 Mini LFE's from 1 SMSL 2 channel amp, but it was rated at 160W x 2 @ 4ohm (not sure if the entire amp was 160W or each channel) and it gave them more than enough power. I think going for 2ohm will maximise your power output which you'll need for a small amp like that. As long as you're not running the amp flat out both at the gain and within Windows, you should be good.

Phew thanks - needed an outside view to straighten my brain over thinking it. My head was saying the mini concert as may be one day in the future I can afford a decent amp and then would be able to connect both the gamer and mini concert to it at the same time as their both 2ohm - or even connect them together and make them 4ohm. I don't think I can do that with the gamer and the mini lfe as it's mixing ohm. But yes, thanks! :)
 
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A kick drum or bass guitar will often use the 40-80Hz and why it appears Buttkicker have products targetting that pro music creation/market sector. Also for higher wattage output potential as pro audio amps support 2ohm loads.

With Sim usage, we do not see CT owners mentioning big differences between the LFE/CT ranges. That includes the Gamer/Mini LFE. The biggest factor is the increased felt output with the BK Gamers extended arm but these are entry-level hardware so both are limited in what they can really offer.

Advice, yeah hold off and get the large BK model, either LFE or CT with an NX3000D amp that can power them. Bargains can also be found sometimes with 2nd hand BK units.

I would go big if I could but I have to attach mini buttkickers (small area) on the skinny tube bars underneath my sparco r100 reclining seat as I have no where to else to attach them on my rig as I have wood seat bases and the vibration travels away when I attach to wood.

Going to go for the mini concert - thanks for the input Mr Latte! :)
 
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  • Deleted member 197115

The Mini LFE will NOT give you anything below say 38hz without the issue of the piston knocking into the shell.
I had few effects at 25hz and they work splendidly. Somehow mine work better at lower frequencies and rattle when going over 45hz. There is an offensive band at around 35hz that should be avoided, but totally fine below that.
 
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Well, now I'm beginning to ask myself which one to go for the mini concert or the mini lfe - have the gamer 2 on the back of the seat and want one of the aforementioned mini lfe or mini concert on the front.

The mini concert is 2ohm as is the buttkicker gamer 2 and everything is spec' is the same it seems but then I read that the mini concert is designed to be in the 40hz-80hz area as it's more "musical" so I'm wondering whether the gamer 2 is also the same as both seem a replica of each other.

Bit worried that the mini lfe will be literally be less bang for the buck but I'm not sure but I don't know why but I'm thinking is it a safer bet as it seems more popular. And then I'm thinking that gamers 2 amp is designed to do it's thing, at 2ohm. But if I grabbed a 2ohm mini concert and used the nobsound g2 amp with it that does between 2ohm (100watts), 4ohm (70watts) and 8ohm (dunno what watts) will it not be able to cope that well with 2ohm and would be more in it's comfort zone at 4ohm.

Mini concert or mini lfe - anyone have any advice which one I should go for? Anyone own both?
I run a Gamer 2 and a Concert Mini. Had similar dilemma, but indeed felt having both equalized at 2ohm rating felt the way to go for consistency. Especially given I wanted them to be my primary drivers for suspension and road effects(split as F/R). Concert under the pedals and Gamer 2 under seat.

Nobsound G2(non-Pro) works great for them. In fact I bought a pair and ditched the Gamer 2 amp entirely. So now both are driven by them. G2 amp is much easier to use, can mount it on my rig for easy reach to adjust volume or power them on, which I appreciate. I find 50-60% volume is plenty of juice on each, and it is so nice having a volume dial. Feel more stable than BK amp as well, though you don’t get the clipping light.
 
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I run a Gamer 2 and a Concert Mini. Had similar dilemma, but indeed felt having both equalized at 2ohm rating felt the way to go for consistency. Especially given I wanted them to be my primary drivers for suspension and road effects(split as F/R). Concert under the pedals and Gamer 2 under seat.

Nobsound G2(non-Pro) works great for them. In fact I bought a pair and ditched the Gamer 2 amp entirely. So now both are driven by them. G2 amp is much easier to use, can mount it on my rig for easy reach to adjust volume or power them on, which I appreciate. I find 50-60% volume is plenty of juice on each, and it is so nice having a volume dial. Feel more stable than BK amp as well, though you don’t get the clipping light.
Thanks for this reply - it is exactly the sort of experience of them all I was trying to find out. Really helpful and I agree having a volume dial will be glorious and as I was hoping (and as you confirm) that the G2 amp would be in the 50-60% ball park. That was my only other worry was that the buttkickers needed a minimum of 50 watts to even move apparently and the G2 is 100 watts at 2ohm so I was hoping the G2 would be good for the job. Thanks again - appreciated!
 
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Bit of a lurker here having obnoxious amounts of problems with my Gamer2.

I have a profile rig (P1X) and I just can’t get it to work.

I’ve mounted it to the side of the seat mount, on a 2020 aluminium extrusion underneath, on various brackets etc.

Nothing worked. The sound is disgusting. It vibrates the life out of everything whilst the feel in the seat is minimal to none.

It worked great on a less solid rig before (Gt Omega Art) but very poorly on this.

I’ll attach some pics but if anybody can help @Mr Latte perhaps?

Really would appreciate dialling it in :(

Pics below of my failed attempts and my rig.
 

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It worked great on a less solid rig
Stop trying to shake a solid rig.
You sit in a seat; shake it.
With a seat bolted to a solid rig, shakers must shake both.
Give shakers a break by decoupling the seat from the P1X.
RaceBass isolators are popular, but other resilient mounts also suffice.
 
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