Paul Jeffrey

Premium
We talk to Niels Heusinkveld and try out the soon to be released Heusinkveld Sim Pedals Sprint.

Catching up with Niels Heusinkveld at the recent very busy Sim Racing Expo over in Germany, we took the opportunity to quiz the man behind Heusinkveld Engineering about his newly announced Sim Pedals Sprint set of high end sim racing pedals. With Niels in a buoyant mood following what appeared to be a largely very positive reception to the new hardware, we took the opportunity to question him about the features and improvements of the new gear, learning plenty about how some dramatic software features and production improvements have moved the product range on from the already very impressive offerings of HE Engineering.

Not content with merely taking Niels at his word, we also couldn't quite resist the chance to get strapped into the cockpit and have a go ourselves, recording a short but sweet talk and drive segment as we give our first impressions based on the limited time we had with these brand new set of pedals.

Frankly, I was very impressed, although it is exceptionally hard to gather any serious kind of feel with something like a high end set of pedals with such a short period of time behind the wheel... not helped any by a crowd of people watching on, and a camera and microphone in my face!

However, with that said I'm going to be lucky enough to take receipt of a review set of these pedals in the very near future, so please consider this more of a taster video, with a much more in depth and detailed look at the HE Sim Pedals Sprint set to appear on our various social media channels in the near future. So stay tuned, get subscribed and watch out for some new footage in the (hopefully) coming weeks...

Heusinkveld Sim Pedals Sprint Talk n Drive.jpg


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Received my Sprints last week and installed immediately - wow, what a difference!

Fitting was really easy to my Simetik rig as the K2 pedal plate is removed by simply undoing two bolts and then could assemble everything on a bench and slide it all back in. Only issue I had was that the tiny screws that hold the pedal faces were done up so tight it was almost impossible to undo and ended up rounding off the screws. Same thing happened with the heel-rest part of the baseplate when using the smaller spacers as I could not get it to tighten even with the supplied washers - in the end I used some of my own washers that were a tiny bit thicker and everything was fine (although unlikely to be able to undo the screws again!).

I was a bit concerned about how much flex there would be with a non 80/20 rig but there were no worries there, the K2 continues to surprise me with just how solid it is. For safety I added some thicker/wider washers to the back of the mounting bolts in the pedal plate and there is virtually zero flex.

If you are in Europe then I would thoroughly recommend ordering through G Performance (http://gperformance.eu/) in Slovakia, the level of feedback and help was fantastic and they receive new stock every two weeks. I placed my order on Saturday 24th August and they were shipped out to me on the 11th :thumbsup:

Took some getting used to the feeling as I've only been using T3PA pedals so quite a significant improvement - the best part is I knocked 1.5 seconds off the best lap time I'd managed over the last week within about 30 minutes use :cool: Two more monitors next and then sadly now I feel like I *need* a dd wheel, does it ever end :cry:

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smart choice on the shifter. I'd spend more money on the pedals than o a different shifter, which is great after all, I have the same one. Rig looks really nice. Enjoy the pedals!
 
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All, I am also a proud owner of some new heusinkveld sprint pedals. I mounted them on a simlab baseplate. having trouble finding a good ergonomic position though.

The problem is the biggest with my gas pedal. I tend to constantly correct my heel. I am slipping, ending up close to the pedal with my heel, than pull it back a little so I can use the ball of my foot again to apply force.
Also for some reason there is a completely different method that I randomly throw in where I lift my heel completely, making it easier for me to push it to the end of its travel.

I allready rotated the pedal plates. Making the pedals a bit smaller.

I tried to capture it on a video. Could someone maybe give some feedback to get a better ergonomic position using these pedals?

 
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The heel movement while using the pedals is normal, as you do use the whole leg and not just the pivot of the ankle to operate the pedals. I would suggest try setting the pedal faces at 45 degrees, so straight up. Also raise the pedal base plate higher so it's in line with bottom of your bucket seat.
 
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Hi Jeremy, appreciate the feedback and will definetly try whatever someone recommends however, I don't really understand what to do yet. (Mention 45 degree and straight up)
1. Raise the base. Heels equal to bottom of butt?
2. Base under 45 degree?
3. Pedals also on 45 degree then to get it straight up?

Added a picture of whole body position.
 

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Hi Jeremy, appreciate the feedback and will definetly try whatever someone recommends however, I don't really understand what to do yet. (Mention 45 degree and straight up)
1. Raise the base. Heels equal to bottom of butt?
2. Base under 45 degree?
3. Pedals also on 45 degree then to get it straight up?

Added a picture of whole body position.
Hi Jeremy, appreciate the feedback and will definetly try whatever someone recommends however, I don't really understand what to do yet. (Mention 45 degree and straight up)
1. Raise the base. Heels equal to bottom of butt?
2. Base under 45 degree?
3. Pedals also on 45 degree then to get it straight up?

Added a picture of whole body position.

Everything I've mentioned is exactly in Paul's picture, so take that as the basis of the position of tweaks you should adjust your setup too. The thing is you are not far off, it's just minor changes. But essentially raise the entire pedal base, probably around 5cm. And look at paul's pedals, and have them more flat facing like his.
 
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My opinion is that your pedals are too high and too far away. Look at your legs: they are too straight to have a good control. Also, if you place then lower, the angle of the pedals you have now will feel better. Anyway, if you like to drive with your legs straight like in a F1, at least set your pedals more vertical and you will not have to move your feet all the time.

This is how I have the Sprints in my rig. I have no complains and I find my driving position very comfortable (apart from the mountain shoes, which are not the best for sim-racing haha).

 
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Update to my earlier "tink" videos.
I recently rotated my throttle forward 2 notches from stock and touched the spring so it would be quiet and the spring stayed put.

I've gone from getting that noise all the time to not at all.

So I'm guessing that the spring's position changes slightly when you rotate the pedal. Now it's not catching on the washer.
 
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I've got a question. Have any of you found a good geometry that keeps your heel in place in front of your throttle pedal. I've been playing with tilting the plate in front of mine and playing with height trying to minimize this heel creep towards the pedal and I still don't seem to have it right.

I was thinking that having the heel plate tilted up in front of the pedal might help.l I've tried lowering and raising the plate relative to the hinge point. I may need to put a small lip at the edge of my plate.

Thoughts?
 
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It's the same for me but I don't find this a problem. As I release the pedal my heel slides back. The only solution I know is raising your sitting position or indeed lower the pedals. And that will change how your leg is and joint pivots are doing the work to press on the pedals, putting more emphasis on your ankle movement. Inverting the pedals will also fix this for you.
 
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In the I'm not sure I've seen this before category, I tried something else out.

Guys, I'm loving this! My foot doesn't slide forward when I brake now. I had to adjust the offset a bit more, but now my heel rests on the cylinder and while it does slide a bit on the cylinder it is much less noticeable and it feels like I have smoother control.

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Can you perhaps make a picture on how your feet sits. Or maybe even a small video? I had the same problem. You can read it a couple of posts back (approx. 10 posts ago) and got many help.

I sort of fixed it now (need small tweeks) by raising the deck as suggested and immediately noticed that by an increase in brake strength. With the same type of comfortable pressure I went up from 32 kg till 45 kg.
 
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I'm running about 52kg right now. I just dropped my foot plate but tilted it up at the front. I had my foot plate lined up pretty well with the hinge before I started making changes. That should be the point of least travel.

The best way to reduce sliding is to reduce travel. I may try that, but for now I really like the solution I've got. BTW I was just informed this is not a novel solution. It's used in Sprint race cars.
HeelStop.jpg
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/JOES-25836-Heel-Stop,68113.html
 
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Just wanted to make a post to praise Heusinkveld support. Last Sunday I took my sprints off of my rig to adjust the angle of them and noticed the PCB on the brake pedal was slightly loose. I decided to tighten up the bolt that holds it in place but stupidly applied too much force and snapped the bolt from the board, meaning the PCB was not held in place at the rear end and just fell down.

I emailed Heusinkveld Monday morning about what happened and was of course honest about it being my fault. I got a reply from Enzo at Heusinkveld within the hour offering to send me a new board completely for free, including free shipping. The board arrived yesterday to the UK so not only they did give me free shipping, the must have used an express service as well.

Phenomenal support and they have a customer for life. If you are considering buying pedals please take the after service support from Heusinkveld into consideration, they will look after you even if you are a heavy handed fool like me ;).
 
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Almost the same here. I move to a new house and when I was quitting everything off the rig, I saw the PCB "unglued" of the bolt and the metal cube.
I send them an email the next day in the morning and 2 hours later I had the response, saying they'll send me a new PCB for free.
One of the best customer support I ever see, if not the best.
 
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Just wanted to make a post to praise Heusinkveld support. Last Sunday I took my sprints off of my rig to adjust the angle of them and noticed the PCB on the brake pedal was slightly loose. I decided to tighten up the bolt that holds it in place but stupidly applied too much force and snapped the bolt from the board, meaning the PCB was not held in place at the rear end and just fell down.

I emailed Heusinkveld Monday morning about what happened and was of course honest about it being my fault. I got a reply from Enzo at Heusinkveld within the hour offering to send me a new board completely for free, including free shipping. The board arrived yesterday to the UK so not only they did give me free shipping, the must have used an express service as well.

Phenomenal support and they have a customer for life. If you are considering buying pedals please take the after service support from Heusinkveld into consideration, they will look after you even if you are a heavy handed fool like me ;).
I'm just sympathetic because I'm clumsy too ;)
 
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Hey guys,

so recently I got my set of Sprint pedals. I am totally amazed by the performance of those pedals (coming from DFGT pedals after 8 years, so quite understandable :laugh:). The only thing that worries me, however, is a noise coming from the clutch pedal. Similar to what you've been dealing with on the gas pedal, but still a bit different. I think I know where it's coming from, but don't understand why. I think it is caused by the movement of the rod on which the spring with the nuts are placed - I think it's "bumping' on something in the mechanism, causing the noise... I tried couple of things and one helped - I loosened the nut on which the mechanism is "holding" the rod is and the noise went away. When I tightened it again, it came back.

Inked342A3851-2_LI.jpg


So my question is - was the mechanism overtightened from the factory which shouldn't have been or does it have to be really tight and the problem is elsewhere? Can I drive it while it being not tightened properly? I mean it's still pretty tight, just not like the factory setting.

 
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