Help sought to get CSW v2 to feel right in rF2.

I am not sure how I can get my CSW v2 to feel right in rF2.
Most cars just feel like their are running on ice instead of asphalt.
I haven't edited any files, just fiddling around in the main menu, but I could use some advice on how to setup my wheel properly. Thanks!
 
Ya, I'm not concerned about how fast they make you. With my old Logitech Momo Wheel, I can lap within 0.1-0.3s as I can with my T500RS and CSR (top 5 GTL Rank and RF Rank laptimes). I mean more for FFB strength, speed, feel, etc.

Can you expand on the CSW V2 a bit? :) Particularly the FFB? I like power and response and apparently the CSW V2 is more powerful than the T500RS (around 7.3 Nm VS around 5.5 Nm). Have you had experience with the T500RS, or even the T300RS/TX??...
 
CSW V2 Questions and Assistance

I spent more time with the CSW V2 (driver v219, firmware 96).

1. Is "3" still the raw value for drift mode ("DRI")? If so, can anyone confirm where Fanatec states this?

2. I can't decide what to use for FF and For. I keep experimenting with both at 100, sometimes 80/110, 50/140, 70/130, etc.

I have ABS, SHO, damper, spring and obviously linearity and deadzone all off.

In-game smoothing 0%.

The FF VS FOR is driving me crazy. I can't tell what is better, or just what each is doing. I can definitely tell the difference though. It sort of seems like FOR boosts some of the smaller signals kind of like RF2's steering torque minimum, but at the same time it also feels like the resistance gets increased as well, yet it feels different than raising the FF. Hmm...This leads me to my next question.


3. Does the CSW V2 (particularly driver v219 and firmware v96) still just cut-off the top forces when you lower the FF setting like previous Fanatec wheels? Or does the FF setting act like most other wheels now whereby lowering it generally causes all forces to scale down rather than leaving all forces the same and just cutting-off the top percentage of them (whatever percent you have it set to)?...

If it's the "Fanatec method" of just cutting-off forces past a certain percent rather than the more traditional method then that makes tuning the FFB a little more straightforward as the FF setting should therefore only ever be at 100.
 
CSW V2 Questions and Assistance

I spent more time with the CSW V2 (driver v219, firmware 96).

1. Is "3" still the raw value for drift mode ("DRI")? If so, can anyone confirm where Fanatec states this?

2. I can't decide what to use for FF and For. I keep experimenting with both at 100, sometimes 80/110, 50/140, 70/130, etc.

I have ABS, SHO, damper, spring and obviously linearity and deadzone all off.

In-game smoothing 0%.

The FF VS FOR is driving me crazy. I can't tell what is better, or just what each is doing. I can definitely tell the difference though. It sort of seems like FOR boosts some of the smaller signals kind of like RF2's steering torque minimum, but at the same time it also feels like the resistance gets increased as well, yet it feels different than raising the FF. Hmm...This leads me to my next question.


3. Does the CSW V2 (particularly driver v219 and firmware v96) still just cut-off the top forces when you lower the FF setting like previous Fanatec wheels? Or does the FF setting act like most other wheels now whereby lowering it generally causes all forces to scale down rather than leaving all forces the same and just cutting-off the top percentage of them (whatever percent you have it set to)?...

If it's the "Fanatec method" of just cutting-off forces past a certain percent rather than the more traditional method then that makes tuning the FFB a little more straightforward as the FF setting should therefore only ever be at 100.
I cant tell you anything about the newest drivers, but regarding FF and FOR I keep it always on 100 and drift mode on neutral (3 in the old driver). You can test it easily experiment with the wheel on and the drift mode. Give the wheel a good push in one direction and if it stops earlier than when the base is off you have dampening, if it goes further you are really in "drifting mode".

For the FFB I have the same settings as you, but as described FOR and FF always on 100 and then I only change the FFB multiplier per car, so e.g. the Camaro GT3 on 0.85, the Formula Renault 2014 on 1.00 etc. This provides the best FFB for me.
 
Sometimes DRI mode "3" still feels damped. Well maybe not damped, but like the FFB is too slow and late or "lazy" to react to all the little twitches and very, very quick and constant mini corrections that something like a kart needs when pushing hard and managing all the edgy moments on the limit.

The Thrustmaster TX/T300RS - and even to a slightly lesser extent the T500RS - seemed so much more lively. reactive, and "instant" whereas the CSW V2 sort-of feels like the FFB's speed/acceleration/reactions/twitches just can't keep up with amount of raw power/torque it can output, well, unless you use DRI 4 or 5. The problem with DRI 4 or 5 though is (as I'm sure most already know) it can be odd and unsettling on turn-in and mid-corner as the FFB can almost feel like it's reversed since it "helps" by speeding up in your direction rather than resisting you.


Maybe I just need more tine with it :)
 
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The worst, heaviest one, the BMW GT2. Still though, I thought the higher-end and more powerfull motor of the CSW V2 could make up for that weight in-terms of at-least matching the T500RS, let alone the even more responsive, quicker reacting TX/T300RS.

I hope it's just my settings.
 
The worst, heaviest one, the BMW GT2. Still though, I thought the higher-end and more powerfull motor of the CSW V2 could make up for that weight in-terms of at-least matching the T500RS, let alone the even more responsive, quicker reacting TX/T300RS.

I hope it's just my settings.
Best tuning option get the Formula Rim it is a massive diffrence. With the BMW it feels to lazy most times for me as well. I only use the BMW for drifting.
 
The thing that really makes me irritated is the fact that you'd expect the higher-end and more powerful motor to at least make the heavier BMW rim match the T500RS (in-terms of quick reactions, twitches, etc. It beats the T500RS in-terms of torque/power/resistance, that's for sure).

I am looking for a Formula rim and Porsche 918 RSR rim :)
 
The thing that really makes me irritated is the fact that you'd expect the higher-end and more powerful motor to at least make the heavier BMW rim match the T500RS (in-terms of quick reactions, twitches, etc. It beats the T500RS in-terms of torque/power/resistance, that's for sure).

I am looking for a Formula rim and Porsche 918 RSR rim :)
Yep, but the position of the weight and the diameter can kill power very quickly. As far as I know the T500 has light and small rims e.g. their Ferrari GT rims is something like 28cm, that makes a massive diffrence unfortunately.
 
I agree. The TM T500RS' default rim is 300 mm as opposed to the Fana BMW's 320 mm, and weights are, I think, around 1100 g (T500RS) VS around 2150 g (BMW).

I hope the Fana Porsche 918 RSR at around 1650 g offers a real improvement from the GT2.
 
I agree. The TM T500RS' default rim is 300 mm as opposed to the Fana BMW's 320 mm, and weights are, I think, around 1100 g (T500RS) VS around 2150 g (BMW).

I hope the Fana Porsche 918 RSR at around 1650 g offers a real improvement from the GT2.
I dont have much experience with the Porsche (way to expensive imo). I can only tell you, that the formula is definetely awesome and I drive nearly everything with it.
 

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