Gumpert Apollo, setup for GetReal

I've noticed very poor and horrible physics of this beautiful race car. Why? It cant turn in corner, just cannot. One of the most powerful and razorblade cars with super tough brakes, cannot brake, cannot turn in e.t.c. In class of GTR-X is worstest physics. I dont really believe, that this has such model of driving in real life. U can find many videos on youtube how that car flying in corners on different tracks, but in R3E its flying like...turtle(((. It midrear engine monster with superior aerodynamics cannot pass succsesfully corner ,even close like front engine BMW M3 GT2. So on this time, who rides this car, can U please give me an advise for setup, to become this car more stable, more braking power and more steering response?
 
I dont have the video< but my setting for track Mid-Ohio Full below:
8038fd4ed04fec5f8f61986c14c83a65.jpg
 
@Serj: You've said, that the car can't turn, and Andi's advice leads into a better turn-in. It should be more agile, because of more oversteer, which makes the car unstable in return. If the car is now to twitchy, then turn some parameters a little more back to default.

Or just try:
Toe in Front: -0,24
Toe in Rear: +0,30
Rear Wing: 10
Rear Springs: ca. 150-160
Front Camber: -3,5
Rear Camber: -3,0
(Sidenote: I actually haven't tried these settings by myself, but i would if i had the time now. It's just gut feeling. :rolleyes:)
 
Just tried the Gumpert Apollo at Portimão GP. Did a laptime of 1:32.618.
You can check it here at the leaderboard -> click

Here's my setup:
gumpert_setup_portimajssgk.jpg

Just a few clicks here & there, but not much different from default setup. I think, the default setup is very driveable, apart from the low agility to turn-in. But overall not a bad car to drive.
 
Just tried the Gumpert Apollo at Portimão GP. Did a laptime of 1:32.618.
You can check it here at the leaderboard -> click

Here's my setup:
gumpert_setup_portimajssgk.jpg

Just a few clicks here & there, but not much different from default setup. I think, the default setup is very driveable, apart from the low agility to turn-in. But overall not a bad car to drive.
Yes, not bad,but not good enough. So I yesterday play in Race Injection with drving there Gumpert Apollo and looks like the horrible physics of this car is way from an old times of the game Race Injection. Btw, what is you time at Mid-Ohio Full course with this settings?
p.s. I hate the getreal mode for confusing the player. Whay they cant to do simple and undestoodable menu, like setup in Asseto Corsa? Why they develop the bicycle, once more?..... :devilish:
 
the orbs of doom are a pain i agree , but the setup page is the easiest one in reality ...
Set Up in Ac can also confuse people , as with everything its just getting used to it .
As for driving cars quick especially supercars im sure you have to run them loose(aero wise ) and get the mechanical grip right ; i also see your running the preload at one so in my understanding that means it transfers from power to coast or coast to power very quickly . My thoughts on mid ohio is that its pretty much a high mechanical grip ; low down force track (a bit like monza) so you also need to adjust how you attack the one or two corners that may need higher Aero .... ill try and spend some time on a setup in the days that follow

Andi
 
... i also see your running the preload at one so in my understanding that means it transfers from power to coast or coast to power very quickly .
It's quite confusing with the Preload setting. I always thought it is the other way arround. :confused:
But i'm really not an expert regarding car setups. I'm simply pleased when i can get the car handling good enough for my liking.:rolleyes:
 
the orbs of doom are a pain i agree , but the setup page is the easiest one in reality ...
Set Up in Ac can also confuse people , as with everything its just getting used to it .
As for driving cars quick especially supercars im sure you have to run them loose(aero wise ) and get the mechanical grip right ; i also see your running the preload at one so in my understanding that means it transfers from power to coast or coast to power very quickly . My thoughts on mid ohio is that its pretty much a high mechanical grip ; low down force track (a bit like monza) so you also need to adjust how you attack the one or two corners that may need higher Aero .... ill try and spend some time on a setup in the days that follow

Andi
AC menus at least has an advise column, in R3E is empty at all. Forexample U said that "1" is more quicker reaction for power transfer of coast and power, but Im thinking before that higher values=quicker reaction. i.e. quickest is "5", but u say not. Thats what Im talking about. Also the settings of Rebound, what does in mean faster or slower, or softer and harder, we dont know that. Now for track in Ohio, U can try to run track test with Ai bots, and they do something around 1.16+ time, I cant even close to it with my settings, maximum 1.17+ time. If U increasing settings of mechanical grip in Ohio, U must also dont forget good balance of aero and gerabox, because the track has a tricky corners when u can simply loose the grip, so that track configuration is. Mid-Ohio is not simple track, not even close to monza in my opinion. So try it and then hit the time, it very interesting with different sets of car Gumpert.(crap car):roflmao:
 
Checking some Setup guides, it seems like there are 2 different interpretations how the Preload parameter is working.

Opinion 1: "Preload affects how quickly the transition between power and coast differential occurs. If you used a preload of '1' and slammed the throttle down you would get a very quick transition to whatever your power percentage age was, the reverse would happen with taking the throttle off. With a higher preload the above effect would be a lot more gradual." (Source: Setup-Matrix)

Opinion 2: "With the Pre-Load setting you can adjust the amount of lock built in before acceleration/deceleration effects take place, mostly when you are in a neutral throttle position (holding speed). If the car has a bad transition from braking-acceleration try to decrease the preload. If the car is not responsive enough from braking-acceleration try to increase preload." (Source: RD-Setup-Guide)

I don't know how it is working in R3E.
 
imho in game the preload works like this ; the setting is the pressure set in the dif ... 1 is lower than 5 so the dif will slip quicker set on 1 than on 5 ... when on transfer to on off throttle...
with it set on 1 and if i nail it mid corner trying to power out the dif will react quickly but i wont accelerate as quickly (as it will slip) , but ill have less rear end step out ... thats what i think is happening

Andi
 
imho in game the preload works like this ; the setting is the pressure set in the dif ... 1 is lower than 5 so the dif will slip quicker set on 1 than on 5 ... when on transfer to on off throttle...
with it set on 1 and if i nail it mid corner trying to power out the dif will react quickly but i wont accelerate as quickly (as it will slip) , but ill have less rear end step out ... thats what i think is happening

Andi
Ok, understood. But if I want to quicker reaction of COAST (turn in corner)but less reaction of POWER( when the car came out of corner), what PRELOAD I had to choose 1 or higher 2,3,4, or5?
 

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