Guide for G27 (and other wheels) configuration

[RasmusP]

February 2024 Update:
Please don't read this thread. I know Google will show it, but it's old and filled with partly wrong information from me.
Just use my LUT package instead:
http://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/rasmusps-lut-guide-for-g27-29-and-dfgt.16799/



-------------- Don't read this! --------------

Older edit: After almost everyone prefers the LUT-Configuration, I created a Lut-only Thread with all my LUTs attached in a zip-file in the Download-Area here at Racedepartment.
Have a look:
http://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/rasmusps-lut-guide-for-g27-29-and-dfgt.16799/

Original post:
Hello everyone,
I know there are a lot of settings and guides online for "the perfect settings" but after I spent about 30 hours searching and trying, I really found MY best settings.
They are a combination of different guides (but with the "GAMMA-option" in use) that I will name right now and first:

Really nice and complete Guide on Assetto Corsa Forum
Reddit Thread where my adventure began (and where I got the Link above)
FFB Deadzone Fix Logitech G27
Guide for LUT Generator (can't recommend it but helped me understanding)

EDIT: I thought the LUT was what gave me my perfect feeling BUT IT WAS THE TYPE=GAMMA, not a LUT so I rewrote that whole Guide:

EDIT2: I found out how to write a LUT yourself so I did it and the result is something similar to the gamma-setting BUT less compressed, smoother middle-transition and therefore BETTER! Here is the link to the post if you don't want to scroll down: LINK

TL: DR Lines:
1. Adjust InGame-settings and Profiler

2. Open the controls.ini:
you find this ini in: "C:\Users\%username%\Documents\Assetto Corsa\cfg\controls.ini"
set MIN_FF=0.04, CENTER_BOOST_GAIN=1.3, CENTER_BOOST_RANGE=0.001

3. open the assetto_corsa.ini:
you find this ini in: "%...%\SteamLibrary\steamapps\common\assettocorsa\system\cfg\assetto_corsa.ini"
set ENABLE_GYRO=1, DAMPER_MIN_LEVEL=0.0, DAMPER_GAIN=0.7

4. open the ff_post_process.ini
you find this ini in: "C:\Users\%username%\Documents\Assetto Corsa\cfg\ff_post_process.ini"
set VERSION=1, TYPE=GAMMA, ENABLED=1, VALUE=0.5, CURVE=%doesn't matter%

5. HAVE FUN

6. additional:
- Logitech Profiler:
- overall: 100
- spring: 0
- damper: 0
- untick center spring, NO combined pedals, 900° rotation, TICK "allow game to adjust settings"

- AC InGame:
- Gain: 50% [depends on your wheel but for my G27 it is 50%. 75-125% InCAR]
- Filter: 0
- Min Force: 4%
- kerb, road, slip: 0
- understeer: untick
- Steering Settings: gamma 1, filter 0, sensivity 0!!

For those who want a detailed guide:

After I read very very much about all seen and all hidden settings in Assetto Corsa, I tried everything out, but one of these things was always bothering me:

1. you have a huge dead zone
2. your wheel oszillates
3. deadzone ok but no smooth transition at center
4. just too much force

The solution for me was the GAMMA-setting in the ff_post_process.ini!
Combined with the dampening-setting, the Gyro-setting, the min_force and the Center_Boost!
Short version of what this settings do:
To get rid of the Deadzone you need to combine the very little center-boost with the min-force. But then you will have a little bump in the middle because they have a "hard cut" at zero-force.
If you enable the GAMMA-setting this hard-cut will be transformed into a curve, just like the FFB-Output from Assetto Corsa will get compressed to a curve where little forces are boosted and the high forces are lowered.
Here are a few pictures of that:

1. Wheelcheck Result:
2. How the AC-FFB has to be alternated:

3. All these settings combined:

So you get rid of the deadzone but don't get an oscillating wheel! [Plus you feel more details.]

The Settings in detail:
1. controls.ini:
you find this ini in: "C:\Users\%username%\Documents\Assetto Corsa\cfg\controls.ini"

- Filter=0: This should eliminate FFB-spikes but for me it seems like it just kills little details but does not really smoothes out! So let it on 0!

- MIN_FF=0: That means, that the "zero force" is still zero force, theoretically it's THE setting to get rid of the deadzone BUT I experienced, that you need to get up to 17% for the G27 and then don't have a deadzone anymore but case 2.: your wheel oscillates.
If you go down to about 12% you have case 3.: the deadzone is still there, but little. Problem: it doesn't feel nice... 0 Force in the Deadzone and then BAM, FORCE.
My thought about that:
The "MIN FORCE" doesn't have a "Curve" for the lowest force. It just does a hard cut which ends up in my experienced results. (See Picture above: 3. combined)

- CENTER_BOOST_GAIN: In the Guide "FFB Deadzone Fix for Logitech G27 1.2" this setting is used.
Explanation: If you imagine the Wheel, the FFB begins at a little bit right and left from the center-> "deadzone". That is because the force that IS THERE, IN THE CENTER, is too low for your wheel.
This setting BOOSTS the FFB in the RANGE of "CENTER_BOOST_RANGE"

- CENTER_BOOST_RANGE: as mentioned, this is the range of the boost that applies on the FFB FROM THE CENTER. Theoretically you just need to "Boost the deadzone away". But this does not work, I tried EVERYTHING!! (combined with GAMMA this transforms to a "curve"!)

I combined this 3 settings in every possibility but you have always ONE problem: the "center transition" as in "you steer from left to right" gets a BUMP in the middle, because of the boost.
I tried to lower the boost, widen the range, give a little more MIN_FORCE. But nope, you always gets this unrealistic "center-bump". (so you need the GAMMA!)

I have to give the author much credit, it is a really nice setting but it's just not enough for me.

2. assetto_corsa.ini
you find this ini in: "%...%\SteamLibrary\steamapps\common\assettocorsa\system\cfg\assetto_corsa.ini"

- FF_SKIP_STEPS=0: If set to 1, you get half of the FFB-Refresh-Rate. So if you have a decent hardware, go with 0! Some people get an error on servers because their CPU is too weak. Then go with 1. It doesn't make a HUGE difference, but the more FF-Inputs, the better, right?

- ENABLE_GYRO=1: Honestly, I don't understand this settings but it smoothens the wheel without taking away important informations!
If you read about that setting: It is for Direct Drive Wheels as the Logitech G27 (not belt drive like Thrustmaster for example) and interprets "the wheel as a Gyro on certain speeds".
If your wheel is a little bit "shaky" overall or oscillates: go with 1!

- DAMPER_MIN_LEVEL=0.0: This means, that the InGame dampening (a few versions ago there was a slider?!) is OFF, when the Engine says the damper to be zero. If you increase this settings, your dampening will ALWAYS BE ON, even if the engine does NOT give the input for it.

- DAMPER_GAIN=1.0: That is simple. If the engine gives the input to dampen the FFB-Signal, it is indeed dampened. For my G27 I like it on 0.7 but if your wheel feels a little "numb" you can lower or even deactivate it. I find my wheel too shaky when on 0.0!
Sidenote: ALWAYS USE THIS SETTINGS FOR DAMPENING, NOT THE LOGITECH PROFILER DAMPENING!!!


3. ff_post_process.ini
you find this ini in: "C:\Users\%username%\Documents\Assetto Corsa\cfg\ff_post_process.ini"

- Version=1: No idea, just leave it!

- TYPE=GAMMA: I don't know how it works exactly but it is THE setting that got me stunning! I drawed a Curve about how it feels for me and it makes sense but honestly: no idea...
Here is the picture:

- VALUE=0.5: Well in one guide the author tells you "it is on 1 at mine, no idea, just leave it" BUT IT IS IMPORTANT!
It determines how strong the FFB gets "compressed". So on 1.0 it does NOTHING, on 0.1 you feel absolutely no details, it's like ultra-power-steering.
For me about 0.5 is the optimum for having details but no deadzone.
THIS IS THE SETTING THAT ELIMINATES MY DEADZONE AND LET IT FEEL REAL!
What is important here: you have to lower the global FFB in order to have "normal forces". The lower the value, the lower your global FFB! If you put VALUE=0.1 and global FFB on 100% you get broken arms for sure...

- CURVE=%doesn't matter, not active%": Well this is just the settings to take the correct LUT. BUT: I don't use a LUT and I can't recommend it with the G27. Tried it and it was just awful!
IF you want to activate a LUT you have to change TYPE=LUT (thanks to Ross Garland for giving me that info!)


Conclusion:
I know that was a lot and I know it's not perfect but maybe it will help you with your settings and increase the fun you have with Assetto Corsa.
I switched over from Project Cars but was so mad with my wheel that I thought about buying another one. The Deadzone was so annoying but the graphics, sound and gameplay were better and I really wanted that game to get working!

This is just a wrap up from other people's posts and guides but I didn't find a guide here, where you don't need to login to the Assetto Corsa Forum or even there, where all these settings are packed up so you can just read it down and get your settings.
And most importantly: I nowhere found any mention of this GAMMA-setting in the ff_post_process.ini so alone for that setting I wrote that all down.

I made this post to give all searching souls another thing to try and hope this makes even a few people happy

Let me know if it helped you!

Kind Regards,
Rasmus

 

[Kek700]

@RasmusP
Noticed two ff_post_process.ini files, one in documents, one in x86/steam/steam apps/common/ AC/cfg
which one does AC look at on start up?
i think i must have got these all mixed up at some point. Also noticed that AC does not seem to use LUT.
setting Gamma to a 1. maybe they never did.
when i did a steam software check, all set back to normal, my steering is now really good, back to how
good i remembered it was in the past.

 

[RasmusP]

@RasmusP
Noticed two ff_post_process.ini files, one in documents, one in x86/steam/steam apps/common/ AC/cfg
which one does AC look at on start up?
i think i must have got these all mixed up at some point. Also noticed that AC does not seem to use LUT.
setting Gamma to a 1. maybe they never did.
when i did a steam software check, all set back to normal, my steering is now really good, back to how
good i remembered it was in the past.

It works this way:
AC checks for the documents folders. If there is no ac folder in the documents, it copies the one from steamapps/common/ac/cfg into the documents location.
If there is a documents folder, you could basically delete the one in steam apps/common/ac/cfg. It's a backup that does nothing.

That's why, when doing a full Re install you need to first delete your documents ac folder, then do the integrity check or Re install and then start ac again.

So if you want to have any effects, it's all in the documents folder!

About the lag:
I can't comment much on it sadly. I just don't have it but I also never raced a real car...
For me there is a bit of a lag in cars with softer suspension but the ffb, just like the g forces in reality already come alive the moment you turn in, not the moment the tyres start to actually turn in.
So I don't think there is any lag if you use gsync and a solid ffb wheel. Like everything that's not below the logitech wheels.

The lag you might have your difficulties with is probably the moment between turning in and the car settling and gripping.
In reality you instantly get the g forces, feeling like the car turns in but if you'd watch it in slow motion you'd see the real car having this "lag" too.

I know this lag from my soft old c class on winter tyres. There's quite a bit of a distance between turning in sharply and the car actually starting to do the cornering.

No setup can do anything against it though. Apart from a high end motion system.
Maybe VR would help but not much I think.

You simply need to only drive f3 or higher level formula cars I guess with minimum lag

 

[Kek700]

thanks for that, always wondered why it was advised to clear the AC document folder.
i am glad i persevered with it all, my steering is really very good now. it must have had
an incorrect setting somewhere.

forgive the lag thing, if i do not understand something i tend to go to extremes in an attempt to try
and figure it out, i remember following Tariq in an RS1600 race at old Silverstone.
i had pre practiced, but i am reasonably sure Tariq just turned up and raced without any preparation.
At the start of practice i was following him very easily, lap 2, had to work harder to stay with him, lap 3
i was just hanging on, lap 4 he started to disappear up the road.
From that moment on i have tried to figure out how and why some people are so good at living in the matrix. How their brains and physical responses create their excellence at this virtual sport.
I have done many sports in my life, never have i been confused about the where's and why some
people are good at their respective sport. If i have been, i have always sorted it out in my head.
I just do not like not understanding something, it just bugs me.
With your help and a lot of effort on my part i have sorted out how to be more competitive, in the end it was something that was tangible.
It is possible to be quick at this sport with the right sort of application and dedication, i understand that. But it is the intangible ability of some people to do it instinctively.
i just do not have an answer to this conundrum.

 

[RasmusP]

I guess the age or rather the generation-thingy might be one major reason for this difference between you and drivers like Tariq.
We're totally used from day 1 of our lives to do virtual things, respond to monitors etc.
I for example started with Need for Speed 3: Hot Pursuit when I was 6 years old. Already doing car racing with the keyboard on splitscreen against my friends.
Then later I got a Thrustmaster 180° FFB wheel together with Need For Speed: Porsche and Grand Prix 3.

I could drift, slide, park and race before I went to high school! Of course my racing skill was non existent but I was used to drive quickly on a screen 10 years before I did my drivers license!
So compared to you I basically had to "learn that there is "no lag" in real life" instead the other way around!

Do you remember my post a few months back when we were talking about driving skills, talent etc?
Where I stated that being fast in simracing would contain all kind of sub-skills like:
- being able to turn the monitor image into the "real thing" in your head
- lightning fast reflexes
- body control for pedals and wheel
- concentration
- endurance
- muscle memory
- vision
- where to look at
- decode the FFB into car behavior

etc etc.
Some people will just be better or rather "more trained" in these different things which makes them simply better at simracing.
You might have a decade more of experience with cars. But they are trained to do the virtual stuff since they were born.
So although they might seem like young and inexperienced chaps compared to you when it comes to racing, they might just have a pure advantage for simracing.
Not because of the driving skill, but because of the "PC skill" combined with "virtual body control skill" or whatever you'd call it.
They are younger. They learn faster and their whole human being is better suited to simracing.

So don't be hard on yourself. Just see it from a different perspective and be happy about what you're good at.

In my eyes you are a good driver! Not the quickest one but you know, you have my full respect and I like racing with you. And that what counts in a club environment like we're racing in, right?

 

[Kek700]

I was rather hoping you would show me a flap in the back of their head, containing a pp3 battery.

Oh well, you make a lot of sense, cannot put any argument against what you have said, I suppose it
is a disadvantage of being brought up in a world of reality, now finally ending in a world dominated by VR.

Well, I suppose when you cannot even feel your feet, endless contemplating how some are seemingly so
naturally quick is a bit of a hopeless task.

I think I will put this to rest, really bugs me though, hate to be defeated by a thought process.




PS, My i5 9600K is very good, fills all the gaps in my requirements, runs along nicely at 5GHz at 1.25v
all cores.
Was it worth it over the i5 6600k, probably not, but an improvement is still an improvement.
My 3440x1440 monitor now sits at 120 FPS constant with no frame time drops at all in AC + all settings
on maximum.

 

[Kek700]

Do you remember my post a few months back when we were talking about driving skills, talent etc?
Where I stated that being fast in simracing would contain all kind of sub-skills like:


- being able to turn the monitor image into the "real thing" in your head.... definitely a No there.
- lightning fast reflexes ....... need a bit of time to think about that.......No
- body control for pedals and wheel....... No
- concentration...... For a few laps
- endurance.......... As long as i can have an occasional cup of tea.
- muscle memory......... still have the muscle, it’s the memory thing thats not so good now.
- vision...... with my 1.25 magnification glasses, i’m good to go there
- where to look at..... hot at that.
- decode the FFB into car ..... occasionally.

It’s not looking good is it Rasmus

Joking aside a really good write up Rasmus.

 

[RasmusP]

PS, My i5 9600K is very good, fills all the gaps in my requirements, runs along nicely at 5GHz at 1.25v
all cores.
Was it worth it over the i5 6600k, probably not, but an improvement is still an improvement.

Nice to see that you got at least a constantly massive fps number. I'm still at 60 fps for any sim as soon as I'm in a race session.
Damn old i7 2600k...
9600k build would be 450€ for me. Just not worth it compared to the massive workstation stuff advantage the Ryzen 3600 would have. (I need both sadly).

Guess I'll wait for Ryzen 4700x or the i7 10700k that hopefully will have hyperthreading again...

 

[JohannDaart]

Thank you Rasmus, before applying your LUT my DFGT felt very loose while driving on straights, causing lack of precision. After your LUT, the wheel is tight as it should be. Thank you a lot.

But I have another problem - the wheel constantly rattles, especially when the car is stationary. Just like in this video (but quieter):

I've already tired setting filter, damper, minimum force, skipping ffb steps, using FFB Clip... It all didn't solve this problem. I never had this rattling problem in other sims like LFS, rF, GTR2, GPL, it's only present in AC, my wheel is fine.
By any chance do you have any idea what settings combination could be used to eliminate this rattling?

 

[RasmusP]

Thank you Rasmus, before applying your LUT my DFGT felt very loose while driving on straights, causing lack of precision. After your LUT, the wheel is tight as it should be. Thank you a lot.

But I have another problem - the wheel constantly rattles, especially when the car is stationary. Just like in this video (but quieter):

I've already tired setting filter, damper, minimum force, skipping ffb steps, using FFB Clip... It all didn't solve this problem. I never had this rattling problem in other sims like LFS, rF, GTR2, GPL, it's only present in AC, my wheel is fine.
By any chance do you have any idea what settings combination could be used to eliminate this rattling?

Great to hear that it's doing a good job for you (apart from the rattling).
Here's how to solve it:
https://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/rasmusps-lut-guide-for-g27-29-and-dfgt.16799/

QUOTE:
Important: the first two values are the most important ones to get rid of the deadzone. If your wheel is shaking when standing still or vibrating too much:
Lower the first value (0|0.120) to maybe 0|0.100. This first value is NOT influenced by the overall ffb from the game! The game ffb starts at the second value!
Hope this helps
End /QUOTE.

For the dfgt lut the values are a bit different I think but it's the same procedure.
Open the lut with a text editor and reduce the first value until the rattling is okay for you.

This first value is basically just "random noise". It gives some thickness when there's no ffb coming from the game, getting rid of the very slight "notch" that's still there even with my LUTs.

So simply reduce it until it feels good.
The rattling is not harmful for the wheel though! It doesn't have enough power to even more the wheel and the moment the game outputs 1% of ffb, the normal ffb takes over.

This first value is not scaled by the game multiplier that's why filtering or reducing the ffb won't have any effect.
However it is scaled by the gain/strength slider in the logitech driver menu!
If you set this above 100% the wheel will start to shake!

 

[JohannDaart]

Thanks!
I have 100% strength in Global/AC profiles in Logitech driver menu.

For DFGT, your LUT has 0|0.070 as first pair.
Even 0|0.01 causes rattling.

Setting it to 0|0 stopped any rattling.
I know that it can't break the wheel, but it just irritated me to death.

Thanks again!

 

[RasmusP]

Thanks!
I have 100% strength in Global/AC profiles in Logitech driver menu.

For DFGT, your LUT has 0|0.070 as first pair.
Even 0|0.01 causes rattling.

Setting it to 0|0 stopped any rattling.
I know that it can't break the wheel, but it just irritated me to death.

Thanks again!

Glad to hear!
I can live with the rattling to have the enhanced feel but I can totally understand that you don't!
Enjoy the racing

 

[iansb1]

EDIT: After almost everyone prefers the LUT-Configuration, I created a Lut-only Thread with all my LUTs attached in a zip-file in the Download-Area here at Racedepartment.
Have a look:
http://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/rasmusps-lut-guide-for-g27-29-and-dfgt.16799/

Hello everyone,
I know there are a lot of settings and guides online for "the perfect settings" but after I spent about 30 hours searching and trying, I really found MY best settings.
They are a combination of different guides (but with the "GAMMA-option" in use) that I will name right now and first:

Really nice and complete Guide on Assetto Corsa Forum
Reddit Thread where my adventure began (and where I got the Link above)
FFB Deadzone Fix Logitech G27
Guide for LUT Generator (can't recommend it but helped me understanding)

EDIT: I thought the LUT was what gave me my perfect feeling BUT IT WAS THE TYPE=GAMMA, not a LUT so I rewrote that whole Guide:

EDIT2: I found out how to write a LUT yourself so I did it and the result is something similar to the gamma-setting BUT less compressed, smoother middle-transition and therefore BETTER! Here is the link to the post if you don't want to scroll down: LINK

TL: DR Lines:
1. Adjust InGame-settings and ProfilerView attachment 185550

2. Open the controls.ini:
you find this ini in: "C:\Users\%username%\Documents\Assetto Corsa\cfg\controls.ini"
set MIN_FF=0.04, CENTER_BOOST_GAIN=1.3, CENTER_BOOST_RANGE=0.001View attachment 185548

3. open the assetto_corsa.ini:
you find this ini in: "%...%\SteamLibrary\steamapps\common\assettocorsa\system\cfg\assetto_corsa.ini"
set ENABLE_GYRO=1, DAMPER_MIN_LEVEL=0.0, DAMPER_GAIN=0.7View attachment 185547

4. open the ff_post_process.ini
you find this ini in: "C:\Users\%username%\Documents\Assetto Corsa\cfg\ff_post_process.ini"
set VERSION=1, TYPE=GAMMA, ENABLED=1, VALUE=0.5, CURVE=%doesn't matter%View attachment 185546

5. HAVE FUN

6. additional:
- Logitech Profiler:
- overall: 100
- spring: 0
- damper: 0
- untick center spring, NO combined pedals, 900° rotation, TICK "allow game to adjust settings"

- AC InGame:
- Gain: 50% [depends on your wheel but for my G27 it is 50%. 75-125% InCAR]
- Filter: 0
- Min Force: 4%
- kerb, road, slip: 0
- understeer: untick
- Steering Settings: gamma 1, filter 0, sensivity 0!!

For those who want a detailed guide:

After I read very very much about all seen and all hidden settings in Assetto Corsa, I tried everything out, but one of these things was always bothering me:

1. you have a huge dead zone
2. your wheel oszillates
3. deadzone ok but no smooth transition at center
4. just too much force

The solution for me was the GAMMA-setting in the ff_post_process.ini!
Combined with the dampening-setting, the Gyro-setting, the min_force and the Center_Boost!
Short version of what this settings do:
To get rid of the Deadzone you need to combine the very little center-boost with the min-force. But then you will have a little bump in the middle because they have a "hard cut" at zero-force.
If you enable the GAMMA-setting this hard-cut will be transformed into a curve, just like the FFB-Output from Assetto Corsa will get compressed to a curve where little forces are boosted and the high forces are lowered.
Here are a few pictures of that:

1. Wheelcheck Result:View attachment 185555
2. How the AC-FFB has to be alternated:View attachment 185549 View attachment 185553

3. All these settings combined:View attachment 185554

So you get rid of the deadzone but don't get an oscillating wheel! [Plus you feel more details.]

The Settings in detail:
1. controls.ini:View attachment 185548View attachment 185551
you find this ini in: "C:\Users\%username%\Documents\Assetto Corsa\cfg\controls.ini"

- Filter=0: This should eliminate FFB-spikes but for me it seems like it just kills little details but does not really smoothes out! So let it on 0!

- MIN_FF=0: That means, that the "zero force" is still zero force, theoretically it's THE setting to get rid of the deadzone BUT I experienced, that you need to get up to 17% for the G27 and then don't have a deadzone anymore but case 2.: your wheel oscillates.
If you go down to about 12% you have case 3.: the deadzone is still there, but little. Problem: it doesn't feel nice... 0 Force in the Deadzone and then BAM, FORCE.
My thought about that:
The "MIN FORCE" doesn't have a "Curve" for the lowest force. It just does a hard cut which ends up in my experienced results. (See Picture above: 3. combined)

- CENTER_BOOST_GAIN: In the Guide "FFB Deadzone Fix for Logitech G27 1.2" this setting is used.
Explanation: If you imagine the Wheel, the FFB begins at a little bit right and left from the center-> "deadzone". That is because the force that IS THERE, IN THE CENTER, is too low for your wheel.
This setting BOOSTS the FFB in the RANGE of "CENTER_BOOST_RANGE"

- CENTER_BOOST_RANGE: as mentioned, this is the range of the boost that applies on the FFB FROM THE CENTER. Theoretically you just need to "Boost the deadzone away". But this does not work, I tried EVERYTHING!! (combined with GAMMA this transforms to a "curve"!)

I combined this 3 settings in every possibility but you have always ONE problem: the "center transition" as in "you steer from left to right" gets a BUMP in the middle, because of the boost.
I tried to lower the boost, widen the range, give a little more MIN_FORCE. But nope, you always gets this unrealistic "center-bump". (so you need the GAMMA!)

I have to give the author much credit, it is a really nice setting but it's just not enough for me.

2. assetto_corsa.iniView attachment 185547
you find this ini in: "%...%\SteamLibrary\steamapps\common\assettocorsa\system\cfg\assetto_corsa.ini"

- FF_SKIP_STEPS=0: If set to 1, you get half of the FFB-Refresh-Rate. So if you have a decent hardware, go with 0! Some people get an error on servers because their CPU is too weak. Then go with 1. It doesn't make a HUGE difference, but the more FF-Inputs, the better, right?

- ENABLE_GYRO=1: Honestly, I don't understand this settings but it smoothens the wheel without taking away important informations!
If you read about that setting: It is for Direct Drive Wheels as the Logitech G27 (not belt drive like Thrustmaster for example) and interprets "the wheel as a Gyro on certain speeds".
If your wheel is a little bit "shaky" overall or oscillates: go with 1!

- DAMPER_MIN_LEVEL=0.0: This means, that the InGame dampening (a few versions ago there was a slider?!) is OFF, when the Engine says the damper to be zero. If you increase this settings, your dampening will ALWAYS BE ON, even if the engine does NOT give the input for it.

- DAMPER_GAIN=1.0: That is simple. If the engine gives the input to dampen the FFB-Signal, it is indeed dampened. For my G27 I like it on 0.7 but if your wheel feels a little "numb" you can lower or even deactivate it. I find my wheel too shaky when on 0.0!
Sidenote: ALWAYS USE THIS SETTINGS FOR DAMPENING, NOT THE LOGITECH PROFILER DAMPENING!!!


3. ff_post_process.iniView attachment 185546
you find this ini in: "C:\Users\%username%\Documents\Assetto Corsa\cfg\ff_post_process.ini"

- Version=1: No idea, just leave it!

- TYPE=GAMMA: I don't know how it works exactly but it is THE setting that got me stunning! I drawed a Curve about how it feels for me and it makes sense but honestly: no idea...
Here is the picture:View attachment 185552

- VALUE=0.5: Well in one guide the author tells you "it is on 1 at mine, no idea, just leave it" BUT IT IS IMPORTANT!
It determines how strong the FFB gets "compressed". So on 1.0 it does NOTHING, on 0.1 you feel absolutely no details, it's like ultra-power-steering.
For me about 0.5 is the optimum for having details but no deadzone.
THIS IS THE SETTING THAT ELIMINATES MY DEADZONE AND LET IT FEEL REAL!
What is important here: you have to lower the global FFB in order to have "normal forces". The lower the value, the lower your global FFB! If you put VALUE=0.1 and global FFB on 100% you get broken arms for sure...

- CURVE=%doesn't matter, not active%": Well this is just the settings to take the correct LUT. BUT: I don't use a LUT and I can't recommend it with the G27. Tried it and it was just awful!
IF you want to activate a LUT you have to change TYPE=LUT (thanks to Ross Garland for giving me that info!)


Conclusion:
I know that was a lot and I know it's not perfect but maybe it will help you with your settings and increase the fun you have with Assetto Corsa.
I switched over from Project Cars but was so mad with my wheel that I thought about buying another one. The Deadzone was so annoying but the graphics, sound and gameplay were better and I really wanted that game to get working!

This is just a wrap up from other people's posts and guides but I didn't find a guide here, where you don't need to login to the Assetto Corsa Forum or even there, where all these settings are packed up so you can just read it down and get your settings.
And most importantly: I nowhere found any mention of this GAMMA-setting in the ff_post_process.ini so alone for that setting I wrote that all down.

I made this post to give all searching souls another thing to try and hope this makes even a few people happy

Let me know if it helped you!

Kind Regards,
Rasmus

 

[iansb1]

Thanks - this has made a massive difference for me- the game has come alive.

 

[Ian Cameron]

[/QUO
Just tried this and seems quite good, however I use FFB Clip. What do you recommend settings for this, or not?
Cheers

 

[RasmusP]

Did you screw up with the quote function Ian?
Not sure where that sentence is coming from hehe.

 

[Ian Cameron]

Did you screw up with the quote function Ian?
Not sure where that sentence is coming from hehe.

think I deleted it hehe

 

[Ian Cameron]

Just tried this and seems quite good, however I use FFB Clip. What do you recommend settings for this, or not?

It's to do with this below.

TL: DR Lines:
1. Adjust InGame-settings and Profiler View attachment 185550

2. Open the controls.ini:
you find this ini in: "C:\Users\%username%\Documents\Assetto Corsa\cfg\controls.ini"
set MIN_FF=0.04, CENTER_BOOST_GAIN=1.3, CENTER_BOOST_RANGE=0.001 View attachment 185548

3. open the assetto_corsa.ini:
you find this ini in: "%...%\SteamLibrary\steamapps\common\assettocorsa\system\cfg\assetto_corsa.ini"
set ENABLE_GYRO=1, DAMPER_MIN_LEVEL=0.0, DAMPER_GAIN=0.7 View attachment 185547

4. open the ff_post_process.ini
you find this ini in: "C:\Users\%username%\Documents\Assetto Corsa\cfg\ff_post_process.ini"
set VERSION=1, TYPE=GAMMA, ENABLED=1, VALUE=0.5, CURVE=%doesn't matter% View attachment 185546

 

[RasmusP]

I thought you'd be using the custom LUT for you from the other thread?
https://www.racedepartment.com/thre...or-g27-29-and-dfgt.139869/page-2#post-2616657

Anyway about ffb clip:
With the Logitech wheels there's ONE gain setting that will be perfect regarding the deadzone.
Too low gain: still a deadzone
Too high gain: you feel a notch or the wheel starts to oscillate too much

However all cars have a different ffb behavior so some are very smooth and some are very spikey. FFB clip doesn't care for your deadzone so it just does some calculating and gives you a gain setting with X amount of clipping.

However clipping ain't that bad. With stronger wheels you need some clipping to keep things within a certain limit. If you run let's say 20% overall gain and hit a wall, that wall will give a 100% ffb output spike.
So you might drive with 4 Nm average cornering force and that wall hit will give you a 20 Nm spike into the hands.
With weaker wheels like the Logitech wheels, you need to get the average cornering force as high as possible without killing too many details.
But clipping does not kill the DIRECTION of the ffb. It only cuts off any increase in STRENGTH.

So running high amounts of clipping will give you a very strong information about direction on average but you might not feel slight things like understeering or oversteering (reduced grip, strength goes down).

I trust Kunos though so in my opinion, 100% overall gain with 100% in-car-gain will be fine!

FFB Clip only makes sense on strong wheels when you want to run a certain amount of dynamic in strength with all cars.
The dynamic mode is cool but it kills the muscle memory effect so I don't use it.

In general FFB Clip interferes with my approach against the deadzone.

To repeat my approach: use my LUT, then play around with Numpad +/- or the ffb app while on track until the center of your wheel feels the best.

 

[Ian Cameron]

I thought you'd be using the custom LUT for you from the other thread?
https://www.racedepartment.com/thre...or-g27-29-and-dfgt.139869/page-2#post-2616657

Anyway about ffb clip:
With the Logitech wheels there's ONE gain setting that will be perfect regarding the deadzone.
Too low gain: still a deadzone
Too high gain: you feel a notch or the wheel starts to oscillate too much

However all cars have a different ffb behavior so some are very smooth and some are very spikey. FFB clip doesn't care for your deadzone so it just does some calculating and gives you a gain setting with X amount of clipping.

However clipping ain't that bad. With stronger wheels you need some clipping to keep things within a certain limit. If you run let's say 20% overall gain and hit a wall, that wall will give a 100% ffb output spike.
So you might drive with 4 Nm average cornering force and that wall hit will give you a 20 Nm spike into the hands.
With weaker wheels like the Logitech wheels, you need to get the average cornering force as high as possible without killing too many details.
But clipping does not kill the DIRECTION of the ffb. It only cuts off any increase in STRENGTH.

So running high amounts of clipping will give you a very strong information about direction on average but you might not feel slight things like understeering or oversteering (reduced grip, strength goes down).

I trust Kunos though so in my opinion, 100% overall gain with 100% in-car-gain will be fine!

FFB Clip only makes sense on strong wheels when you want to run a certain amount of dynamic in strength with all cars.
The dynamic mode is cool but it kills the muscle memory effect so I don't use it.

In general FFB Clip interferes with my approach against the deadzone.

To repeat my approach: use my LUT, then play around with Numpad +/- or the ffb app while on track until the center of your wheel feels the best.

Thanks for the explanation Rasmus. Have been using the LUT you created for me until now, so thought I'd try that Gamma one above. However have put your LUT back in and disabled FFB Clip and used the manual way to change FFB. And yes I will stick with your suggestion, so much better. Guess if it aint broke don't fix it lol.

 

[RasmusP]

Thanks for the explanation Rasmus. Have been using the LUT you created for me until now, so thought I'd try that Gamma one above. However have put your LUT back in and disabled FFB Clip and used the manual way to change FFB. And yes I will stick with your suggestion, so much better. Guess if it aint broke don't fix it lol.

The gamma stuff is from before I started with LUTs as I couldn't find a proper explanation about all this stuff and took a long time to figure everything out on my own and reading endlessly in forums...

So yeah, LUT is the way to go, gamma is nowhere near the same fidelity! It's a fun and heavy feeling for softer road cars but even then, my "gamma like LUT" is way better.
This gamma stuff basically is a compression of the ffb. You get high forces earlier on so the wheel is a lot beefier and thicker.
However you lose fidelity at the grip limit so I never used it again