RBR Setups

N4_2 Subaru Impreza N14 URT Gravel (English Stages) Wet & Dry

Subaru Impreza N14 URT Gravel setups

Here are the setups i made for R8 of the RDRC S2 league
 

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Yes my friend, dead and buried.

Anyway, The Beast, a.k.a. Pacenote plugin should do the trick.
I suppose the standard cameras of these cars are just crap. Don't think that VR actually changes anything related to the camera position and target vectors.
 
Thanks for the reply.
I solved my problem with camhack - which is integrated in rsrbr! I also tried Pacenote, but that seemed to conflict with rbr-vr. So camhack is the solution for vr users in my opinion.
Anyway thanks for the tip with the reddit group i will look over there for sure.
 
Hi, have a lot of old setups. Most for EVO9. ( Before NGP physics )

I now try to fix new setup and its not easy. Original setup for ex Polo R5 has very low settings if I compare to my EVO9 setup. Almost everyone for example damper, springs is very low.
Same for WRC cars, very low settings. If sameone has a setup for gravel and tarmac and Pribram tarmac settings to share. When I can build a good setup for my driving technique. But I need a good ground setup first. Even settings for diff I need.
 
What a f--k is wrong. I drive Polo R5, I have default setup. front diff at 70 and rise it to 100. Now the game says to high value ????? And diff centerbrake value 7 8 9 bla bla is wrong. I never do samething on centerbrake in the game.
 
VW WRC Polo (NGP6)
-----------------

Tarmac / Gravel - 1 to 5 (Bumpy)
- Front Diff Preload 90
- Rear Diff Preload 120
- Handbrake Release 50
- Handbrake Pressure 78
- Spring Length Front 210 mm / Rear 210 mm
- Spring Stiffness Front 50 / Rear 40
- Helper Length Front 90 mm / Rear 100 mm
- Helper Stiffness 20.7
- Top Mount Position 7
- Steering Rod Length Front 454.54 mm / Rear 508.35 mm
- Strut Platform Height 5 mm
- Camber Front -2.25 / Rear -2.25
- Toe Front -0.20 / Rear -0.64
- Ride Height Front 207.25 mm / Rear 213.42 mm
- Bump Front 6 / Rear 7
- Rebound Front 4.50 / Rear 3.50
- Fast Bump Front 8 / Rear 9.5
- Fast Rebound Front 4.25 / Rear 4.25
- Bump / Rebound Threshold 0.30
- Rollbar Front 10 / Rear 10.5
- Brakes Front 9000 / Rear 1500
- Gear (Long)

Gravel / Snow - 4 to 6
- Front Diff Preload 90
- Rear Diff Preload 120
- Handbrake Release 50
- Handbrake Pressure 78
- Spring Length Front 200 mm / Rear 215 mm
- Spring Stiffness Front 59.50 / Rear 39
- Helper Length Front 70 mm / Rear 75 mm
- Helper Stiffness 20.7
- Top Mount Position 3
- Steering Rod Length Front 455.05 mm / Rear 508.70 mm
- Strut Platform Height 5 mm
- Camber Front -1.50 / Rear -1.50
- Toe Front -0.18 / Rear -0.50
- Ride Height Front 203.98 mm / Rear 205.96 mm
- Bump Front 5.50 / Rear 6.50
- Rebound Front 7.0 / Rear 6.0
- Fast Bump Front 6.70 / Rear 7.70
- Fast Rebound Front 5.0 / Rear 5.0
- Bump / Rebound Threshold 0.30
- Rollbar Front 18 / Rear 18.9
- Brakes Front 6800 / Rear 3000
- Gear (Long)

using the above mentioned settings from the first post, those 2 are the most useful setups i use for the NGP6 version of the VW WRC Polo. its either one of those setups that i use, depending on the stage :thumbsup:

honestly, those 2 setups have made a big difference in my drive times and overall enjoyment of the game.
that car is more "responsive" to wheel input, better grip while making quick small turns, and less worry about spinning out during a drift/turn. ive especially found with the longer gear tuning, i can save a drift from turning into a spinout due to an exaggerated wheel spin from a shorter gear ratio, which is a relief having more time to counter steer and be able to correct on-the-fly, instead of sliding into a tree/cliff and having to restart

--------------------------------------​

quick setup.jpg

(i found this car setup cheat sheet on reddit, these might help some other people)​
 
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Sorry buddy, but these settings are absolute bullshit.

Without specifying to which car these belong, they are not worth a penny.

Do you really think that e.g. your spring rates and damper settings work for EVERY car ??

Your brake settings are ridiculous, so is your toe (always negative, really ?).
Setting long gearbox is nonsense, just because you are not able to control your throttle properly.
 
ahh, apologies, ive since edited my post with the NGP6 car i used these setups with (VW WRC Polo)

and yes, im absolutely not a car tuning specialist by any stretch, but those above mentioned settings, for that car, has gotten me to a point where i can play comfortably with the game and not slide around uncontrollably. me having zero experience with tuning a car, and the fact that no one else is uploading NGP6 car setups is why i posted those settings; to start the conversation of people sharing their car setups for NGP6

i meant no disrespect in my original post, or if you inferred that i was suggesting the default NGP6 settings werent good. i can say, for me, the settings i posted have made stages like frazier wells much more playable, and im getting times of 2:10 in that level (which is 3 seconds shy of the world record for that stage). so id say yes, these settings do work for that car and my drive style
 
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Just out of curiousity I took a ride with the Polo WRC in NGP6 with the "shitty" standard setup.
Please note that I usually do not drive these fast cars, as I prefer the classics like Manta/SC RS and the like.

A one-shot ride at Fraizer Wells yielded a 2:10 as well, with lots of room for improvement.
As I am not the fastest and consistent driver I would say that this is a laughable time.
Nevermind, otherwise some guys may get the impression that only with "magic" setups decent times could be achived.
 
yes, i agree frazier wells is by far one of the easiest stages in RBR, and for comparison, i did just now use the default settings for NGP6 with the VW Polo WRC and got 2:10 in that stage as well

now, the reason i am interested in finding car setups, is specifically to beat the final stage in the rally school. for the longest time, i couldnt get below 1:28, but would get lucky and set ~1:27 on occasion. but that was never a consistent time. the goal for beating the rally school stage is <1:24

using the gravel/snow settings i posted above, i set a time of 1:25:42, and that felt very consistent and not "lucky". i can get 1:26 comfortably now, the car accelerates out of turns better, and is more responsive with quicker turns

rally school - gravel_snow setup.jpg


i do want to add that i am very new to rally racing, and even more new with using a wheel/pedals (G29). i have only been playing with a full rig for ~2 months. yes, ive played other arcade racing games growing up, but not a rally game before. and, my better times could be a consequence of me just getting better at rally racing using a wheel, but i can feel a difference when using default settings and those setups i posted, especially on a stage like :confused: rally school
 
well i do feel embarrassed, but i finally beat the rally school stage with a time of 1:23:44 ;)

Rally School NGP6 - 1_23_44.jpg


the embarrassing part is that im assuming the rally school car setup is set to the default car setup settings for NGP6. so yes, it is by all means "possible" to beat the final rally school stage with the default settings in NGP6. that said, i do prefer to use the car setup i posted, as this was a bit maddening trying this stage over and over with the default settings
 
I've just started playing RBR since about a week, i'm starting to get the hang of it but there is some setup options that i don't know what it does and if i should change it.
1.I read that fast bump threshold determines the amount of pressure needed to activate fast bump but when should i change it?
2.What is handbrake release and when should i change it,
3.I know how the rear and forward differential lock works, but what does the center setting do? and center with left foot brake?
4.How should i set camber and caster?
5.I use around -0.20 front toe and around +0.30 rear toe so i can get more stability when going straight, but people says in rally cars you should use a negative value on the rear why is it?
6.Also how should i setup the helper?
 
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I recently installed RBR with Cz mod. I followed everything event with settings guide but ingame wheel Has low rotation. My dfgt od set to 540 degrees but in game i hardly can turn in tight corners. But when i use keyboard and arrows everything is fine. I can turn lock to lock in game. Any ideas?
 
Possibly there is some filters in action. In options>controls>filter settings>steering>axis set everything to 0 and instant.

For immersion (no effect on driving) edit the LM_Driver.ini file in folder MISC (or file misc.rbz, opens as a zip file). Edit second line like this:

Code:
Max Steeringwheel degrees                = 270

in case you are using 540 degrees. Value is half the steering lock. This way real wheel and game wheel should match rotation. You can also hide the steering wheel altogether with RBRCIT, but better try this first.
 
Hello RRB Fans,
unfortunately there is so little information about RBR setups, so I hope someone here can help me out.
I struggle to modify the Fiesta WRC 19 (NGP 6) on tarmac to my driving style. Actually everything is fine and even the stock setup gives a good feeling to the car. But it becomes super difficult when the car starts to slide. I just cannot keep high slip angles reliably. Either the car turns in (witch ends in a spin) or it bites back to its normal position. Especially in hairpins it's very hard to initialize the correct slip angle during corner entry without spinning. I already tried many diff and suspension changes, but maybe I am not going far enough. First I was thinking that it's related to the physics of the car, but then I have seen this video where you can see that the driver can control the slip angle very well. Any hint would be super helpful. Best regards

 
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