RBR Setups

N4_2 Subaru Impreza N14 URT Gravel (English Stages) Wet & Dry

Subaru Impreza N14 URT Gravel setups

Here are the setups i made for R8 of the RDRC S2 league
 

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one more thing i will add, the setups i'm using are the tarmac ones posted by Nigel Atkins.

Are these the guidelines you are using?
http://www.racedepartment.com/forum/threads/good-base-settings-all-cars-all-surfaces.30193/

If so, these are pretty good from my experience.
If you are getting understeering, it may be because of the balance between your wheel rotation and the max Steering lock (I don't know what setting you are using there).
For a G25 with 360 deg rotation, you might need about 600 to 700 for the max Steering lock. It depends how much you like to throw the wheel. I don't like it too twitchy for tarmac, so I aim for more wheel rotation and higher steering lock.

I find that on tarmac, the turn-in and grip often depends on driving technique, I have to drive very differently to gravel or snow. I need to have plenty of power on through the turns, it usually grips better than you expect on RBR. If I try to turn in whilst off the power, it understeers. So, I brake to desired speed for entry, then get on the power as soon as possible through the turn.

If you are still having understeer, you may need to increase the rear ride height compared to the front, reduce the front AR bars, reduce the front suspension settings (mainly springs). I wouldn't recommend moving the brake bias too much to the rear on tarmac, it can make things very unstable, especially if you are trail braking or left foot braking.

Sorry I don't have any experience with the URT, but it should be similar to the other Group N cars I have driven.
 
Just to throw something else into the melting pot, I have also found that different camera positions/settings
also appear to affect the way a car steers on corners, it's almost as if moving the camera changes the way you
have to steer into a corner.

I think if you want some constructive advice you will have to post the various settings you are using so the guys with
the knowledge can best advise you.

Edit: BTW I've also used diff settings to help with the handbraking on the tarmac stages - happy to share that with you - will dig them out later and post back.
 
This is good stuff guys keep it coming.
I kind of know my way around a suspension setup but diffs are a total mystery to me.
I don't really like to have a lot of steering lock either, I use about 600 degrees in game.
Pete: As for my camera position i just the standard RBR bumper cam.
 
This is good stuff guys keep it coming.
I kind of know my way around a suspension setup but diffs are a total mystery to me.
I don't really like to have a lot of steering lock either, I use about 600 degrees in game.
Pete: As for my camera position i just the standard RBR bumper cam.

Perhaps the standard bumper cam position could benefit from some adjustment. If you take the settings from
the pacenote plugin camera then you can put these into Rallyesims CarIniManager program for the car you are
using - perhaps something for the next round ?

Diff settings - if you open up the Differential Torque setting and change the Handbrake Release to something like 25%
that appears to make it easier to handbrake on tarmac surfaces. Also you could play about with the front and rear diff
settings if you wanted the car with a more equal balance between the diffs. Dont do things alltogether or you wont know
which one is giving you the most benefit.
 
Also you could play about with the front and rear diff
settings if you wanted the car with a more equal balance between the diffs. Dont do things alltogether or you wont know
which one is giving you the most benefit.
Good Point.

But from what it sounds I'd check the Center Diff first. With some of the default set-ups the center diff is 100% locked on very low brake pedal pressure. So if he keeps on throttle the center is fully locked which makes the car pull a bit like a tractor as on cornering front and rear travel a different distance and speed. left foot braking (throttle and brake both presses) uses a different mapping though, so it gets more complicated...

If that's it reduce the center diff torque first and see if that makes a difference :)


But yeah... the other diffs especially at coast or low pedal pressure create a similar problem.
 
thanks for setupping info. i want to ask what should be done in setups:
1. under wet conditions (tarmac and gravel) which we need more traction getting away from slow corners for fwd cars with too much power?
2. for tarmac stages converted from gravel (mainly australian) with lots of dust, that throws the back end without any warning?
 
thanks for setupping info. i want to ask what should be done in setups:
1. under wet conditions (tarmac and gravel) which we need more traction getting away from slow corners for fwd cars with too much power?
2. for tarmac stages converted from gravel (mainly australian) with lots of dust, that throws the back end without any warning?
2. Maybe more ride height, then adjust rear suspension. Maybe car is just too low for those stages?
 
Erm... I just tried changing settings, and while I was searching which setup option is what(German->English), I wasn't sure about some things:

- Camber and Toe can't be changed directly? In the geometry area, I could change the upper 4 settings which influenced the 4 on the bottom. Is that so, or am I missing something?

- Ride Height, is that also under Geometry? Or was the length of the springs meant?

I am not good at setups and it gets a bit messy when you have to translate technical stuff from German to English or the other way:p

The German labeling for the Anti-rollbar(ARB) seems to be poor. I got "Überrollbügel" in RBR, but it should be written "Stabilisator", because "Überrollbügel" means the rollcage lol(Fail?)!

Other German->English translations in RBR Setup Menu:

Stiffness -> Federhärte
Helper Length -> Zusatzfederlänge
Bumper -> Stoss
Rebound -> Rückprall
Fast Bump -> Schnellstoss
Camber -> Sturz
Toe -> Spur
Ride Height -> Bodenfreiheit
 
- Camber and Toe can't be changed directly? In the geometry area, I could change the upper 4 settings which influenced the 4 on the bottom. Is that so, or am I missing something?
A few things can change the Camber, but the main one is the Wheel Axis Inclination (Angle).
Unfortunately, with no telemetry available in RBR, it's not easy to fine tune this.

- Ride Height, is that also under Geometry? Or was the length of the springs meant?
A couple of ways to alter ride height.
Strut Platform Height is the easiest.
Also, Spring Length and Spring Stiffness will have an influence on Ride Height.
 
In my old files archive I found this, may it's will interesting for something.
This is tool for external car setup creation or you can extract setup from replay. What is creator of this program I dont know, but I think its need for some update. May in this community we found some smart guy who can make new something similar...
http://www.gamefront.com/files/21761302/rbr_setupextractor.rar
this updated version:http://www.gamefront.com/files/21761302/rbr_setupextractor.rarhttp://www.terra.dti.ne.jp/~vivas/rbrct.html
 

Now I finally have my wheel setting right in RBR I want to know what can be done to the following issue that is driving me nuts;

Everytime when my car goes offroad or me having a crash, my engine stops (the engine icon on screen turned colored red) and I'm not able to restart it with my ignition button. In every situation I have to ask for help so the '3 guys' can help me to get back on the road again.

Is there a way to change my settings, so that my engine will not quit working after I loose control over my car and getting offroad, and why is my ignition button not working?

I know it is a reality feature of RBR, but for the time being I would like to practise my driving skillz without having to worry about my engine quits working most of the time...

Would appreciate some help from the experts here
veryhappy.gif
 
Maybe try turning AutoClutch on, if you don't have it on now.

You do this by going to Options / Gears / Clutch Help = On.

Don't know why your Ignition key won't work, maybe try setting a different key stroke or wheel button to it. I have mine mapped to a Wheel Button. You may have to hold it on for a few seconds to get the car re-started from a stall, or sometimes try it a couple of times. You may have to put it into Neutral Gear to restart it.
Depending on the Damage setting you are using, it may not re-start from a crash due to terminal damage, but of course the CFH (Call for Help) option won't work then either.

Are you using the base RBR or are you having those problems with RSRBR2012? If the problem is with RSRBR, have you mapped the Ignition button (and Autoclutch) to your Mulligatawny Profile ?
 
Thanks Warren for your reply, much appreciated!

For as far as I experience while driving/crashing I have the problems in both RBR and RSRBR2012. I did however, not having the Clutch help on, because I was driving with the H-Shifter and though it would be more realistic when driving with no clutch help...

Anyway; I have a go and will see if I have mapped both the Ignition button and Autoclutch to my Mulligatawny Profile correctly.

Let you know! :D
 
Just started with RSRBR2013, skipped 2012.. For me the biggest, well the only thing i've had to setup so far is the diff. It seems that the default diffs are oversteering quite a bit. Dropping rear diff and raising front stabilized the car to my liking.With default the car didn't want to stay straight at all, specially under braking minute steering actions caused spins. Oversteering out of the corners is not a problem but braking was a lottery.. I think i need to soften springs too..

I have to try that 25% handbrake release, that don't function like it should on tarmac.

Most of the setup settings are pretty clear to me, just need to find the limits.
 
Sickeningly good gravel setup mate! Personally, I've never set up any car properly as I consider the default RSRBR setups pretty decent. But with the R3 Civic and your setup, I've overcome my some sort of despise of FWD cars. They're truly capable of blistering speeds, when tuned properly. Thanks!
 

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