HTC Vive

Good base settings all cars all surfaces

Nigel Atkins

3000RPM
Jan 3, 2007
3,019
63
Not sure on the origin of these setups, but cudos to who ever did them :D

Tarmac France (Arbroz, JV, JP, Bisanne)
- Stiffness Front 80 / Rear 70
- Helper Length 40 to 50 mm
- Bump Front 6.0 / Rear 4.0
- Rebound Front 8.0 / Rear 5.5
- Fast Bump Front 4.0 / Rear 3.5
- Camber -3.00 to -4.00
- Toe Front -0.20 / Rear -0.50 to -0.80
- Ride height from 170 to 185
- Reduce Antiroll bar 10
- Brakes front 9000 / Rear 1500

Tarmac Mixed (Pribram, PTD Rallysprint)
- Stiffness Front 70 / Rear 60
- Helper Length 50 to 60 mm
- Bump Front 6.0 / Rear 5.0
- Rebound Front 7.0 / Rear 5.0
- Fast Bump Front 5.0 / Rear 4.0
- Camber -3.00 to -4.00
- Toe Front -0.20 / Rear -0.50 to -0.80
- Ride height from 185 to 200
- Reduce Antiroll bar 15
- Brakes front 9000 / Rear 1500

Mid Bumpy Tarmac (Falstone, Greenhills, Mineshaft etc ...)
- Stiffness Front 60 / Rear 50
- Helper Length 60 to 70 mm
- Bump Front 6.0 / Rear 6.0
- Rebound Front 6.0 / Rear 4.5
- Fast Bump Front 7.0 / Rear 8.0
- Camber -3.00 to -4.00
- Toe Front -0.20 / Rear -0.50 to -0.80
- Ride height from 180 to 190
- Reduce Antiroll bar 15
- Brakes front 9000 / Rear 1500

Bumpy Tarmac (Fraizer Wells, Harwood, Tanner etc. ...)
- Stiffness Front 50 / Rear 40
- Helper Length 70 to 100 mm
- Bump Front 6.0 / Rear 7.0
- Rebound Front 4.5 / Rear 3.5
- Fast Bump Front 8.0 / Rear 9.5
- Camber -1.50 to -3.00
- Toe Front -0.20 / Rear -0.50 to -0.80
- Ride height from 185 to 200
- Reduce Antiroll bar 10
- Brakes front 9000 / Rear 1500

Smooth Gravel and Smooth Snow (Falstone, Greenhills, Mineshaft etc ...)
- Stiffness Front 60 / Rear 40
- Helper Length 60 to 70 mm
- Bump Front 5.0 / Rear 6.0
- Rebound Front 7.0 / Rear 6.0
- Fast Bump Front 6.5 / Rear 7.5
- Camber -0.80 to -1.50
- Toe Front -0.12 / Rear -0.30 to -0.50
- Ride height from 190 to 210
- Reduce Antiroll bar 15 to 25
- Brakes front 7000 / Rear 3000

Bumpy Gravel and Bumpy Snow ((Fraizer Wells, Harwood, Tanner etc. ...)
- Stiffness Front 50 / Rear 30
- Helper Length 70 to 80 mm
- Bump Front 6.0 / Rear 7.0
- Rebound Front 7.0 / Rear 6.0
- Fast Bump Front 7.0 / Rear 8.0
- Camber -0.70 to -1.20
- Toe Front -0.12 / Rear -0.30 to -0.50
- Ride height from 200 to 220
- Reduce Antiroll bar 15 to 20
- Brakes front 6500 / Rear 3000
 

Ozan Bas

10RPM
May 12, 2012
17
7
36
thanks for setupping info. i want to ask what should be done in setups:
1. under wet conditions (tarmac and gravel) which we need more traction getting away from slow corners for fwd cars with too much power?
2. for tarmac stages converted from gravel (mainly australian) with lots of dust, that throws the back end without any warning?
 

Kazumi

250RPM
Mar 22, 2012
331
85
thanks for setupping info. i want to ask what should be done in setups:
1. under wet conditions (tarmac and gravel) which we need more traction getting away from slow corners for fwd cars with too much power?
2. for tarmac stages converted from gravel (mainly australian) with lots of dust, that throws the back end without any warning?
2. Maybe more ride height, then adjust rear suspension. Maybe car is just too low for those stages?
 

David Jundt

1000RPM
Sep 4, 2010
1,765
364
Erm... I just tried changing settings, and while I was searching which setup option is what(German->English), I wasn't sure about some things:

- Camber and Toe can't be changed directly? In the geometry area, I could change the upper 4 settings which influenced the 4 on the bottom. Is that so, or am I missing something?

- Ride Height, is that also under Geometry? Or was the length of the springs meant?

I am not good at setups and it gets a bit messy when you have to translate technical stuff from German to English or the other way:p

The German labeling for the Anti-rollbar(ARB) seems to be poor. I got "Überrollbügel" in RBR, but it should be written "Stabilisator", because "Überrollbügel" means the rollcage lol(Fail?)!

Other German->English translations in RBR Setup Menu:

Stiffness -> Federhärte
Helper Length -> Zusatzfederlänge
Bumper -> Stoss
Rebound -> Rückprall
Fast Bump -> Schnellstoss
Camber -> Sturz
Toe -> Spur
Ride Height -> Bodenfreiheit
 

Warren Dawes

10000RPM
Premium
Mar 1, 2007
12,915
1,881
70
- Camber and Toe can't be changed directly? In the geometry area, I could change the upper 4 settings which influenced the 4 on the bottom. Is that so, or am I missing something?
A few things can change the Camber, but the main one is the Wheel Axis Inclination (Angle).
Unfortunately, with no telemetry available in RBR, it's not easy to fine tune this.

- Ride Height, is that also under Geometry? Or was the length of the springs meant?
A couple of ways to alter ride height.
Strut Platform Height is the easiest.
Also, Spring Length and Spring Stiffness will have an influence on Ride Height.
 

Manuel De Samaniego

3X Race Department Rally Champion
Apr 30, 2010
1,591
849
Not sure on the origin of these setups, but cudos to who ever did them :D

Tarmac France (Arbroz, JV, JP, Bisanne)
- Stiffness Front 80 / Rear 70
- Helper Length 40 to 50 mm
- Bump Front 6.0 / Rear 4.0
- Rebound Front 8.0 / Rear 5.5
- Fast Bump Front 4.0 / Rear 3.5
- Camber -3.00 to -4.00
- Toe Front -0.20 / Rear -0.50 to -0.80
- Ride height from 170 to 185
- Reduce Antiroll bar 10
- Brakes front 9000 / Rear 1500

Tarmac Mixed (Pribram, PTD Rallysprint)
- Stiffness Front 70 / Rear 60
- Helper Length 50 to 60 mm
- Bump Front 6.0 / Rear 5.0
- Rebound Front 7.0 / Rear 5.0
- Fast Bump Front 5.0 / Rear 4.0
- Camber -3.00 to -4.00
- Toe Front -0.20 / Rear -0.50 to -0.80
- Ride height from 185 to 200
- Reduce Antiroll bar 15
- Brakes front 9000 / Rear 1500

Mid Bumpy Tarmac (Falstone, Greenhills, Mineshaft etc ...)
- Stiffness Front 60 / Rear 50
- Helper Length 60 to 70 mm
- Bump Front 6.0 / Rear 6.0
- Rebound Front 6.0 / Rear 4.5
- Fast Bump Front 7.0 / Rear 8.0
- Camber -3.00 to -4.00
- Toe Front -0.20 / Rear -0.50 to -0.80
- Ride height from 180 to 190
- Reduce Antiroll bar 15
- Brakes front 9000 / Rear 1500

Bumpy Tarmac (Fraizer Wells, Harwood, Tanner etc. ...)
- Stiffness Front 50 / Rear 40
- Helper Length 70 to 100 mm
- Bump Front 6.0 / Rear 7.0
- Rebound Front 4.5 / Rear 3.5
- Fast Bump Front 8.0 / Rear 9.5
- Camber -1.50 to -3.00
- Toe Front -0.20 / Rear -0.50 to -0.80
- Ride height from 185 to 200
- Reduce Antiroll bar 10
- Brakes front 9000 / Rear 1500

Smooth Gravel and Smooth Snow (Falstone, Greenhills, Mineshaft etc ...)
- Stiffness Front 60 / Rear 40
- Helper Length 60 to 70 mm
- Bump Front 5.0 / Rear 6.0
- Rebound Front 7.0 / Rear 6.0
- Fast Bump Front 6.5 / Rear 7.5
- Camber -0.80 to -1.50
- Toe Front -0.12 / Rear -0.30 to -0.50
- Ride height from 190 to 210
- Reduce Antiroll bar 15 to 25
- Brakes front 7000 / Rear 3000

Bumpy Gravel and Bumpy Snow ((Fraizer Wells, Harwood, Tanner etc. ...)
- Stiffness Front 50 / Rear 30
- Helper Length 70 to 80 mm
- Bump Front 6.0 / Rear 7.0
- Rebound Front 7.0 / Rear 6.0
- Fast Bump Front 7.0 / Rear 8.0
- Camber -0.70 to -1.20
- Toe Front -0.12 / Rear -0.30 to -0.50
- Ride height from 200 to 220
- Reduce Antiroll bar 15 to 20
- Brakes front 6500 / Rear 3000

I was searching about this yesterday and I found this document in Rallyesim, the author is papy jim, I don't know who translated them to English though. You can download the original in French here:

http://forum.rallyesim.fr/download/file.php?id=1975
 

Tommi Ojala

500RPM
Oct 31, 2010
575
116
32
tryid these on tarmac only tonight.. wouldnt say that they are so much better than the default ones in my DS3, but there are few things that made car feel better.. not all of them definetly. and on stages like pribram i bet i can get dampers to handle the big ruts and bumbs better than those. but you definetly should try these and make you changes from there!
 

Cedric Germain

250RPM
Premium
Jan 26, 2010
415
89
Thank you for your feedback Tommi.
I will try them. Untill now, on gravel, I don't have a good setup. I hope it will make my driving experience better (I need more grip & stability)

Regarding the default setup, I think they are really bad. The car handling isn't good, it's like driving a car in cardboard.
 

function9

250RPM
Jan 13, 2013
280
84
I recently tried the bumpy tarmac settings on Semetin2009 (and other Czech stages) and the France tarmac settings. For me, with the 2010 Focus, the bumpy settings on the Czech stages were a huge improvement over default settings. I can attack corners now instead of coasting through them hoping I don't lose grip. The overall feel of the car when going over bumpy surfaces is great now.

On the other hand, with the France settings, I've seen marginal improvement compared to my times with default settings on the French stages. One thing I have noticed is hairpins feel a little bit easier/quicker using the above settings. Will try out some of the gravel settings this weekend.

I really appreciate these settings and anyone else that tries to help people with setups. I understand what many of the settings do, but I'm no car guy. It seems that there could be multiple ways to achieve the same effect. So, trying to think about tinkering with one setting over another or a combination of settings is quite daunting (and that's not even mentioning the differential settings!). So thank you to the guys with the knowledge.
 

function9

250RPM
Jan 13, 2013
280
84
I did have a question regarding spring length. If you change the spring length, should you adjust the helper length by the same amount?
 

WorkerBee

250RPM
Jan 16, 2011
294
132
I did have a question regarding spring length. If you change the spring length, should you adjust the helper length by the same amount?
No.

The spring length and rate set the ride height.
The helper spring rate and length affect at which suspension travel the helper spring will actually be activated.
Basically, if you change the helper spring length without changing the minimum helper spring length you will screw the geometry, at least what the values shown in the setup editor are concerned.
So you will not get what you see in the end.
Means your toe/camber/caster etc. values are not accurate anymore.

Generally I am not a friend of "good base settings for all cars" cause its kind of ridiculous.
The spring and damper settings should be based on vehicle weight, location of the CG (=static weight distribution), motion ratios of the suspension etc. etc.

But maybe all cars in RSRBR have the same weight and dimensions and suspension geometry ... I dunno.
 
Jan 1, 2010
985
325
what i love about setups is: I messed with them for the first 2 years, a little tweak here a little tweak there. Then after a month or so tried the silly default setup and it was usually better then my tweaked setup.

I do like the base setup above, but only as a base from where I can stumble through the dark art of suspenders and dampness creating my own uniquely fecked-up undrivable car. It does put me at a a disadvantage having a car that is setup by an idiot, but I do like a challenge...
 

porridge

250RPM
Aug 25, 2009
271
39
I loathe cars in general, so I was glad that the tarmac mixed setup worked a treat on stages like Hradek and Liptakov in Czech Plugin (Impreza N14 URT). It was about time I tested that setup, because over the years I've been - perhaps unfairly - bashing Sourek's stages secretly in my mind for being overly tricky and impossible to enjoy.
 

function9

250RPM
Jan 13, 2013
280
84
No.

The spring length and rate set the ride height.
The helper spring rate and length affect at which suspension travel the helper spring will actually be activated.
Basically, if you change the helper spring length without changing the minimum helper spring length you will screw the geometry, at least what the values shown in the setup editor are concerned.
So you will not get what you see in the end.
Means your toe/camber/caster etc. values are not accurate anymore.

Generally I am not a friend of "good base settings for all cars" cause its kind of ridiculous.
The spring and damper settings should be based on vehicle weight, location of the CG (=static weight distribution), motion ratios of the suspension etc. etc.

But maybe all cars in RSRBR have the same weight and dimensions and suspension geometry ... I dunno.
So, it's best not to touch helper settings when messing with setups?

Yeah, the settings are hit and miss, at least for me. There's only been a few stages between gravel and tarmac where I've seen any improvement. At the very least, they give me something to compare to the default settings and modify more (and hopefully better).
 
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PikWik

10RPM
Oct 29, 2019
21
9
37
VW WRC Polo (NGP6)
-----------------

Tarmac / Gravel - 1 to 5 (Bumpy)
- Front Diff Preload 90
- Rear Diff Preload 120
- Handbrake Release 50
- Handbrake Pressure 78
- Spring Length Front 210 mm / Rear 210 mm
- Spring Stiffness Front 50 / Rear 40
- Helper Length Front 90 mm / Rear 100 mm
- Helper Stiffness 20.7
- Top Mount Position 7
- Steering Rod Length Front 454.54 mm / Rear 508.35 mm
- Strut Platform Height 5 mm
- Camber Front -2.25 / Rear -2.25
- Toe Front -0.20 / Rear -0.64
- Ride Height Front 207.25 mm / Rear 213.42 mm
- Bump Front 6 / Rear 7
- Rebound Front 4.50 / Rear 3.50
- Fast Bump Front 8 / Rear 9.5
- Fast Rebound Front 4.25 / Rear 4.25
- Bump / Rebound Threshold 0.30
- Rollbar Front 10 / Rear 10.5
- Brakes Front 9000 / Rear 1500
- Gear (Long)

Gravel / Snow - 4 to 6
- Front Diff Preload 90
- Rear Diff Preload 120
- Handbrake Release 50
- Handbrake Pressure 78
- Spring Length Front 200 mm / Rear 215 mm
- Spring Stiffness Front 59.50 / Rear 39
- Helper Length Front 70 mm / Rear 75 mm
- Helper Stiffness 20.7
- Top Mount Position 3
- Steering Rod Length Front 455.05 mm / Rear 508.70 mm
- Strut Platform Height 5 mm
- Camber Front -1.50 / Rear -1.50
- Toe Front -0.18 / Rear -0.50
- Ride Height Front 203.98 mm / Rear 205.96 mm
- Bump Front 5.50 / Rear 6.50
- Rebound Front 7.0 / Rear 6.0
- Fast Bump Front 6.70 / Rear 7.70
- Fast Rebound Front 5.0 / Rear 5.0
- Bump / Rebound Threshold 0.30
- Rollbar Front 18 / Rear 18.9
- Brakes Front 6800 / Rear 3000
- Gear (Long)

using the above mentioned settings from the first post, those 2 are the most useful setups i use for the NGP6 version of the VW WRC Polo. its either one of those setups that i use, depending on the stage :thumbsup:

honestly, those 2 setups have made a big difference in my drive times and overall enjoyment of the game.
that car is more "responsive" to wheel input, better grip while making quick small turns, and less worry about spinning out during a drift/turn. ive especially found with the longer gear tuning, i can save a drift from turning into a spinout due to an exaggerated wheel spin from a shorter gear ratio, which is a relief having more time to counter steer and be able to correct on-the-fly, instead of sliding into a tree/cliff and having to restart

--------------------------------------​

quick setup.jpg

(i found this car setup cheat sheet on reddit, these might help some other people)​
 
Last edited:

WorkerBee

250RPM
Jan 16, 2011
294
132
Sorry buddy, but these settings are absolute bullshit.

Without specifying to which car these belong, they are not worth a penny.

Do you really think that e.g. your spring rates and damper settings work for EVERY car ??

Your brake settings are ridiculous, so is your toe (always negative, really ?).
Setting long gearbox is nonsense, just because you are not able to control your throttle properly.
 

PikWik

10RPM
Oct 29, 2019
21
9
37
ahh, apologies, ive since edited my post with the NGP6 car i used these setups with (VW WRC Polo)
and yes, im absolutely not a car tuning specialist by any stretch, but those above mentioned settings, for that car, has gotten me to a point where i can play comfortably with the game and not slide around uncontrollably. me having zero experience with tuning a car, and the fact that no one else is uploading NGP6 car setups is why i posted those settings; to start the conversation of people sharing their car setups for NGP6

i meant no disrespect in my original post, or if you inferred that i was suggesting the default NGP6 settings werent good. i can say, for me, the settings i posted have made stages like frazier wells much more playable, and im getting times of 2:10 in that level (which is 3 seconds shy of the world record for that stage). so id say yes, these settings do work for that car and my drive style
 
Last edited:

WorkerBee

250RPM
Jan 16, 2011
294
132
Just out of curiousity I took a ride with the Polo WRC in NGP6 with the "shitty" standard setup.
Please note that I usually do not drive these fast cars, as I prefer the classics like Manta/SC RS and the like.

A one-shot ride at Fraizer Wells yielded a 2:10 as well, with lots of room for improvement.
As I am not the fastest and consistent driver I would say that this is a laughable time.
Nevermind, otherwise some guys may get the impression that only with "magic" setups decent times could be achived.