G920 Brake Pedal

Hi guys, I'm fairly new to sim racing having only played abit of Assetto Corsa, I've recently bought ACC and I'm using it with my G920. As many of you will probably already know the brake pedal is extremely stiff and it's near impossible to fully depress the pedal to achieve any sort of braking. I've tried adjusting the in game settings to reduce the travel needed to achieve full braking, however it seems to have made little difference? I had the same problem with the original AC however from changing the brake gain I've managed to make it work. Any help appreciated!
 
I'm relatively new myself and started with a full G920 setup about a year ago. Halfway through the year I switched out the pedals for a Fanatec loadcell setup, so I abandoned that pedal system months ago, but I did use it quite a bit first. All I can say is that the rubber will break in eventually and become more usable, and your leg will adjust to the amount of pressure it requires as well. The loadcell pedal actually requires even more force than the G920 pedal did for me by the time I switched them out. I know that's not super helpful advice, but I don't know what else to say other than, at least in my very limited experience, if you stick with it the brake pedal will become usable for you.
 
I bought a G29 (same pedals as the G920) recently and I was also struggling with the brake pedal. My quick fix for the situation is to use the clutch pedal for braking and ignoring the brake pedal completley.

I had an old Momo Wheel before without a clutch pedal so I don't miss it now. Should I ever need to clutch manually I'll open the pedals assembly and remove the block of rubber they put inside the brake spring (maybe leaving a little piece because there would be a dead zone if removed completley).

IMO it's not a good thing that Logitech did there. I think they wanted to simulate what a load cell setup feels like, but IMO it can't work that way. A real load cell pedal derives the amount of braking force from the actual pressure that is applied to the pedal. It's said that humans are quite good at sensing and modulating pressure.
The G920 pedals derive theire output values from the travel range but the brake pedal increases the required force at some arbitrary point by an arbitrary amount. For me there is no real connection between the pressure I have to put on and the resulting braking force. It's certainly possible to get used to it and train your muscle memory but I dont't want to, because it appears unnatural to me.

@Jivesauce Since you have a direct comparison. Is the load cell a completely different thing (which I think it is) or is it compareable to the "Logitech imitation"? Did the load cell feel natural from the beginning or did you need to get used to it quite a bit too?
 
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It is true that the Logitech brake pedal configuration is not as good as a load cell. There are load cell mods on the internet as a cheaper way to get better brake feel and resolution.
In the meanwhile I have successfully adjusted the pedal travel in ACC and it works well for me.
I use a brake gamma between 1.0 and 1.1 in ACC, AC and even iRacing without issues.
Are you left foot braking too or only right foot braking? That can also manifest itself as a consistency issue at times
 
Thanks for all the replies guys, I decided to take the pedal set apart this afternoon and remove the rubber block inside the spring of the brake pedal and it has made night and day difference. For the first time tonight i've actually been able to play and enjoy ACC and post competitive lap times!
 
@Jivesauce Since you have a direct comparison. Is the load cell a completely different thing (which I think it is) or is it compareable to the "Logitech imitation"? Did the load cell feel natural from the beginning or did you need to get used to it quite a bit too?

The load cell is definitely significantly better, but it still required some adjustment. It is actually even more firm than the Logitech pedal using the intermediate stiffness rubber bushings that I'm using. It felt like pushing on a rock the first time I tested it. I tried the soft bushings and, while I initially felt like it was better that way, I actually found it easier to modulate pressure consistently with a setup that requires more pressure than less, so I switched back to the intermediates. I genuinely had a brief period of muscle soreness after the first few times using the LC pedals.

I will say though that I seem to be one of the very few people that felt like the Logitech solution actually did a decent job simulating the LC setup. Just be aware if you remove the rubber bumper that there is a built-in gamma curve on the brake pedal, so your braking force will ramp up dramatically towards the end of the pedal travel and you won't have any increased pressure to indicate that is happening. As with anything else though, I'm sure you can adjust to it.

All that said, there is no question I was faster with the LC pedal, I just want to be careful not to set unrealistic expectations and give the idea that you will immediately be two seconds faster as soon as you get them. If nothing else, they greatly improved the enjoyment of driving just by virtue of being much nicer. The more realistic size and solid build quality just feel more natural to use. Since I rarely see this mentioned I also want to say that the longer travel of the gas pedal and increased resolution made a significant difference for me in terms of throttle control once I adjusted to it.

I should say, I'm using Fanatec CSL Elite LC pedals, so about the cheapest LC pedals available. I'm sure some of those really high-end pedal sets feel even more realistic, but I really have absolutely no complaints about them. I really don't know what I would improve about them other than a gas pedal face more like that on the Clubsport pedals, and I can't imagine replacing them until something just flat out breaks. Sorry to write a novel, I hope this somewhat answers your question though.
 
Hey guys :)
I can highly recommend my g27 sponge-mod. Took it apart, searched for a solution and the idea came to my mind that a standard dirt cheap kitchen sponge might perfectly fit into the springs. Ofc without the "rough surface" part of it.
So I took a sponge, cut away the rough part and screwed the sponge into the spring.
The spring now is just the spring at first when pressing, then the sponge will add a very slight and progressive resistance, then the sponge won't have enough space for further compression and will push in between the coils of the spring, resulting in way more resistance.
In the end you will have to push against the spring plus about 5 layers of extremely compressed sponge material.

I honestly love it, lol. And it's so simple... Btw I'm still reaching 100% with the default settings. I just put the brake gamma to 1.0 in all games!

Try it yourself :)
IMG_20190301_194411_505.jpg
IMG_20190301_194413_755.jpg
IMG_20190301_194416_205.jpg
 
@Jivesauce and @RasmusP thanks for your explanations! Very good information! ATM I'm pretty satisfied with my solution (using clutch pedal), but who knows what time will bring. It's always good to know that there are still options available ...

@fnegroni I always use my left foot for braking (if that question was directed to me). (Not in my street car though, however I try it from time to time there just for fun, but have to be a bit concious about it, not to slam onto the pedal too hard.)
 
(I'm using a similar mod like Rasmus, except with harder rubber. My brake pedal needs around 40 kg of force to get to 100 % input. I can't even imagine using a non-progressive and soft pedal like clutch for braking anymore.)
 
(I'm using a similar mod like Rasmus, except with harder rubber. My brake pedal needs around 40 kg of force to get to 100 % input. I can't even imagine using a non-progressive and soft pedal like clutch for braking anymore.)
Your dfgt pedals mod made me think of my sponge mod when I opened the pedals :)
BTW I swapped the brake and clutch springs as the brake one is stiffer. Sponged them both so have a "real car" resistance for right foot braking and a stiffer left foot braking.
Clutching is a beat weird but my real clutch is pretty heavy so apart from the progressiveness, it's cool.
 
I've tried spring swaps before between throttle and clutch, but I just can't do it. It just feels weird to me. I like a lighter throttle, so the spring that's there is mostly perfect for me (I would probably go even a bit lighter than that if I could) and heavier throttle feels weird (and tiring after a while), as does lighter clutch.
 
I've tried spring swaps before between throttle and clutch, but I just can't do it. It just feels weird to me. I like a lighter throttle, so the spring that's there is mostly perfect for me (I would probably go even a bit lighter than that if I could) and heavier throttle feels weird (and tiring after a while), as does lighter clutch.
Little bit confused here. I didn't touch the throttle at all. Or was that not related to me?
In my real car the throttle is the lightest, the brake starts a lot lighter than the clutch until I really brake hard and the clutch is pretty stiff and linear apart from the little notch around the bite point.

On the g27 pedals the brake is the stiffest spring. Too stiff when braking with the right foot compared to my real car and the clutch spring being lighter than my real clutch.

So I swapped brake and clutch and now my right foot likes the brake (middle pedal) when coming from the real car and also my left foot likes the clutch pedal (left foot braking), when coming from my real car.
 

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