G27/G29 Hall Sensor Mod

[GeekyDeaks]

Thought it might be an idea to share some ideas @Neilski and I have been bouncing around about replacing the stock pots in the G27 and G29 with Hall Sensors (probably also work on a G25). We found a few discontinued options (e.g. https://www.simulaje.com/productos/accesorios/sensor-hall.html) and a current one that seemed ok but required a USB adapter (https://tomyracing.com/index.php?language=en&module=products&content=pedhallv130), which made us suspect its range might not be great and/or it didn't invert the signal. (EDIT: I didn't read the description properly! the mod can be used without a USB adapter)

So, in the interests of science we decided to get some bits and have a play. We went for the A1324/5/6 (https://docs.rs-online.com/958c/0900766b813d193a.pdf) as it appeared to have decent range of close to 0-Vcc (many are just +/-1v) and @Neilski worked out a simple arrangement that theoretically would produce a near linear change based on angle over the 70 deg the G2X rotates the pot:

This was then a great excuse to get a 3D printer, so I ordered an Ender 3 Pro (https://www.creality3dofficial.com/products/creality-ender-3-pro-3d-printer) and knocked up a simple model to hold the magnet and sensor whilst still utilising the existing pot for simplicity. The result was the following:

Assembled and connected up to an Arduino to measure against the pot

It's got an interference fit that seems fine and allows adjustment of the sensor angle to get the range as centred on Vcc/2 as possible. We played with some different magnet sizes, but found the 8mm with the most sensitive device (A1324) gave a range just over that of the stock pot. BLUE line is the pot, RED is the hall sensor

We are still playing but this is looking really promising as a simple swap for the standard pots in the G27 and everything but brake in a G29, although a less sensitive device like the A1326 could probably get the range down to that expected (more testing required!)

EDIT: forgot the link to the 8mm model - https://a360.co/3mvHXkX

 

[Neilski]

hello guys, I read the thread with great interest, I use the pedal board of the G27 and for some time I wanted to replace its potentiometers. unfortunately my knowledge in electronics is really limited, but I can be a tester if it can be useful, I can manage with soldering , CAD and 3d printing. Is the working design currently that of GitHub? Sorry for my bad English.

Well @GeekyDeaks is the expert on this, and in particular the 3D printing (and Github model) side. But if you can manage soldering and 3D printing I reckon you have all you need, because with these Hall sensor ICs there are no other bits of electronics involved for a G27 - it's just a straight replacement of the pot

I've had my clutch set up with the Hall sensor for some months now and it has been flawless. I just need to get around to undoing the 500 screws on the housing one more time to do it on the other two pedals (at least until I finish my load cell replacement for the brake!).

 

[DaVeX↯]

hey...wait!!!
you guys are enjoying this without giving me a shout?
I shared my findings/ideas with you and was waiting for your tests results to order printed parts from external service...(sadly I don't have access to 3D printer anymore due to Corona so I need to order printed parts).

What is your feedback?
Are those working as intended?

 

[GeekyDeaks]

hey...wait!!!
you guys are enjoying this without giving me a shout?

I got a bit side tracked and built a wooden rig over the holiday instead

I can now correctly mount all three pedals though, so I'll be resuming testing soon.

Where are you based? I might be able to post the models over...

EDIT: I just realised that I might have misread. Are you referring to the complete replacement pot or the additional model mod? Whilst the complete pot was pretty cool, I felt that using the original pot was more robust, so I am going with that approach for now.

 

[DaVeX↯]

I got a bit side tracked and built a wooden rig over the holiday instead

I can now correctly mount all three pedals though, so I'll be resuming testing soon.

Where are you based? I might be able to post the models over...

EDIT: I just realised that I might have misread. Are you referring to the complete replacement pot or the additional model mod? Whilst the complete pot was pretty cool, I felt that using the original pot was more robust, so I am going with that approach for now.

Thanks mate I really appreciate your offer but really there is no need (I am Italian btw), found the 3d models on your git so I can easily order them.
About your question I was curious to know how was working the "replacement pot" for you. While I know the model you built/designed the first time is sturdier I was curious to know how was working the other one (since I found some structural issues at the time).
Looks like it is working good for Neil

 

[Neilski]

Thanks mate I really appreciate your offer but really there is no need (I am Italian btw), found the 3d models on your git so I can easily order them.
About your question I was curious to know how was working the "replacement pot" for you. While I know the model you built/designed the first time is sturdier I was curious to know how was working the other one (since I found some structural issues at the time).
Looks like it is working good for Neil

Sorry, I now realise that my post was also misleading, cos there have been so many revisions of the mod. The clutch pedal in my G27s is using a very early variant and (believe it or not) I've also just remembered that it's a super-hack installation cos I didn't remove the 3DRap pots+tweaks; this means that the gearing is wrong (angular range is a bit too big, affecting linearity, but I'm getting away with it) and the pot shaft is also physically different so the magnet holder is secured with Blu-tack ...! (To my great surprise, it hasn't drifted at all. )

REAL SOON NOW, I'll be re-installing the old pots with the newer variant of mod (having just about kicked my Kerbal Space Program addiction ). I might even try the clutch pedal out with the fully-printed version, i.e. ditching the old pot on that pedal.

 

[Lucas80]

Well @GeekyDeaks is the expert on this, and in particular the 3D printing (and Github model) side. But if you can manage soldering and 3D printing I reckon you have all you need, because with these Hall sensor ICs there are no other bits of electronics involved for a G27 - it's just a straight replacement of the pot

I've had my clutch set up with the Hall sensor for some months now and it has been flawless. I just need to get around to undoing the 500 screws on the housing one more time to do it on the other two pedals (at least until I finish my load cell replacement for the brake!).

ok thanks a lot, so I just need an a1324 sensor, and print one of the stl model?. I would just ask, are 8x3mm magnets that I already have available may be okay? where did you get the a1324? i have difficulty finding them can i look for equivalents? thanks a lot again guys

 

[Neilski]

ok thanks a lot, so I just need an a1324 sensor, and print one of the stl model?. I would just ask, are 8x3mm magnets that I already have available may be okay? where did you get the a1324? i have difficulty finding them can i look for equivalents? thanks a lot again guys

Other magnets should work fine, as long as they are reasonably strong. It's not hard to edit the SCAD definition to resize the mounting holes if your magnets aren't the same size as the model.
I think that our A1324s were all bought from RS. Not totally sure what equivalents exist out there (I think that one or two may be mentioned earlier in the thread).

 

[Lucas80]

Other magnets should work fine, as long as they are reasonably strong. It's not hard to edit the SCAD definition to resize the mounting holes if your magnets aren't the same size as the model.
I think that our A1324s were all bought from RS. Not totally sure what equivalents exist out there (I think that one or two may be mentioned earlier in the thread).

These Can be good for this purpose?

€ 1,11 5%OFF | 1PCS A1324LUA-T SIP3 A1324LUA A1324L A1324 A132 / 324 SIP-3 A Basso Rumore Lineare Sensori Effetto Hall con uscita analogica

Page Not Found - Aliexpress.com

 

[Neilski]

These Can be good for this purpose?

€ 1,11 5%OFF | 1PCS A1324LUA-T SIP3 A1324LUA A1324L A1324 A132 / 324 SIP-3 A Basso Rumore Lineare Sensori Effetto Hall con uscita analogica

Page Not Found - Aliexpress.com

They do look like the right product - shame there's no datasheet. They are so cheap though that I guess the worst-case scenario is still pretty tolerable

 

[Lucas80]

Thought it might be an idea to share some ideas @Neilski and I have been bouncing around about replacing the stock pots in the G27 and G29 with Hall Sensors (probably also work on a G25). We found a few discontinued options (e.g. https://www.simulaje.com/productos/accesorios/sensor-hall.html) and a current one that seemed ok but required a USB adapter (https://tomyracing.com/index.php?language=en&module=products&content=pedhallv130), which made us suspect its range might not be great and/or it didn't invert the signal. (EDIT: I didn't read the description properly! the mod can be used without a USB adapter)

So, in the interests of science we decided to get some bits and have a play. We went for the A1324/5/6 (https://docs.rs-online.com/958c/0900766b813d193a.pdf) as it appeared to have decent range of close to 0-Vcc (many are just +/-1v) and @Neilski worked out a simple arrangement that theoretically would produce a near linear change based on angle over the 70 deg the G2X rotates the pot:

View attachment 406247

This was then a great excuse to get a 3D printer, so I ordered an Ender 3 Pro (https://www.creality3dofficial.com/products/creality-ender-3-pro-3d-printer) and knocked up a simple model to hold the magnet and sensor whilst still utilising the existing pot for simplicity. The result was the following:

Assembled and connected up to an Arduino to measure against the pot

It's got an interference fit that seems fine and allows adjustment of the sensor angle to get the range as centred on Vcc/2 as possible. We played with some different magnet sizes, but found the 8mm with the most sensitive device (A1324) gave a range just over that of the stock pot. BLUE line is the pot, RED is the hall sensor

We are still playing but this is looking really promising as a simple swap for the standard pots in the G27 and everything but brake in a G29, although a less sensitive device like the A1326 could probably get the range down to that expected (more testing required!)

EDIT: forgot the link to the 8mm model - https://a360.co/3mvHXkX

Sorry @GeekyDeaks the 8mm model is good? or I have to mod the 6mm model on github?

 

[Tjure]

Hello good afternoon.

First of all thank you very much to the people of this forum for their effort and commitment to this issue. I am interested in using this sensor room system for my G29 pedals. I'm tired of cleaning the potentiometers. And before I bought some of the sensor systems sold by eBay, I was seeing if with my limited means and electronics knowledge I could put together some of the solutions you propose.

Regarding the proposed systems, I think the simplest is the cylinder with a side outlet. I have located a few shops that print in 3D and I assume it will be cheap to build.

I have some doubts.

-Regarding the magnets: How are the magnets fixed in the two holes of the cylinder? 5mm diameter neodymium magnets are easy for me. So I thought about fixing them with tape or directly using glue. Do you think it is adequate? Do you have to put the magnets with their poles oriented in some specific way?

-As for the sensor: which wire corresponds to each pin of the sensor? Based on the Allegro diagram, the center pin corresponds to ground (black wire) but I have doubts whether pin 1 (input power) corresponds to the red wire and pin 3 corresponds to the orange, green or white wires (depending on the pedal ) it is right? .
The sensor seems very sensitive and I prefer to avoid damaging it with a solder. Do you think that I can use this type of connector to directly put the sensor pins.

0.46€ 84% de DESCUENTO|JST PH 2,0mm Micro macho hembra Conectores eléctricos | Conector de cable hembra macho-Conectores-Aliexpress

¡Compra fácil, vive mejor! Aliexpress.com

es.aliexpress.com

-I understand that the cylinder of magnets will rotate within the fixed cylinder of the sensor. Would some type of grease or vaseline be necessary to facilitate friction or does the design contemplate clearance between one piece and the other?


@ Lucas80, did you finally buy the sensor from AliExpress? Have you installed it and is it working properly? Tell us your experience please.

Greetings to all and once again thank you for your effort


PS: I hope that between "google translator" and my little English words, I have written an understandable text

 

[GeekyDeaks]

Sorry @GeekyDeaks the 8mm model is good? or I have to mod the 6mm model on github?

Hi, I think the 8mm model was only for the older configuration of the magnets/sensor. The latest configuration is only 6mm. Are you using the following STL files?

g29-hall-sensor-mod/mod/stl/side-exit-mag.stl at master · GeekyDeaks/g29-hall-sensor-mod

Hall Sensor Modification for the G29/G27 pedals. Contribute to GeekyDeaks/g29-hall-sensor-mod development by creating an account on GitHub.

github.com

g29-hall-sensor-mod/mod/stl/side-exit-sensor.stl at master · GeekyDeaks/g29-hall-sensor-mod

Hall Sensor Modification for the G29/G27 pedals. Contribute to GeekyDeaks/g29-hall-sensor-mod development by creating an account on GitHub.

github.com

 

[GeekyDeaks]

-Regarding the magnets: How are the magnets fixed in the two holes of the cylinder? 5mm diameter neodymium magnets are easy for me. So I thought about fixing them with tape or directly using glue.

I have just used some tape around the holder, but I guess you can glue them in? They actually attract in the correct orientation, so they don't have a tendency to fall out anyway

Do you have to put the magnets with their poles oriented in some specific way?

Yes, orientation is important. If it's incorrect you will find the voltage swing is reversed to what the pot normally outputs

-As for the sensor: which wire corresponds to each pin of the sensor? Based on the Allegro diagram, the center pin corresponds to ground (black wire) but I have doubts whether pin 1 (input power) corresponds to the red wire and pin 3 corresponds to the orange, green or white wires (depending on the pedal ) it is right? .

When you look at the datasheet, it should show you the orientation of the sensor. Usually this is with the beveled face towards you. This should mean that pin 1 (left) is power and pin 3 (right) is the signal.

I have wired mine up the wrong way around on several occasions and fortunately there is a protection diode preventing the device from damage, so you should be fine even if you make a mistake.

The sensor seems very sensitive and I prefer to avoid damaging it with a solder. Do you think that I can use this type of connector to directly put the sensor pins.

I think they should work, but you might need to check the clearance inside the model. I personally used some Dupont plugs like this:

 

[Lucas80]

Hi, I think the 8mm model was only for the older configuration of the magnets/sensor. The latest configuration is only 6mm. Are you using the following STL files?

g29-hall-sensor-mod/mod/stl/side-exit-mag.stl at master · GeekyDeaks/g29-hall-sensor-mod

Hall Sensor Modification for the G29/G27 pedals. Contribute to GeekyDeaks/g29-hall-sensor-mod development by creating an account on GitHub.

github.com

g29-hall-sensor-mod/mod/stl/side-exit-sensor.stl at master · GeekyDeaks/g29-hall-sensor-mod

Hall Sensor Modification for the G29/G27 pedals. Contribute to GeekyDeaks/g29-hall-sensor-mod development by creating an account on GitHub.

github.com

Not yet, AliExpress have long time, so I decided to take some other A1324 from eBay.

For the model I modified the one on GitHub to insert a couple of 8mm magnets.

 

[Lucas80]

If can be useful for some guys I created modded version of your design @GeekyDeaks for 8 mm magnets.

 

[Tjure]

Hello @Lucas80. I have also created a variant with an 8mm hole, they were the magnets that I found easily. I have made the impression and I am waiting to test with a U018007 hall sensor that they sold me in an electronics store (i didnt find specification about it) . I suppose it will not be valid, but it has helped me to confirm that it fits perfectly in the 3D piece.
When I modified the 3D I made two changes. On the one hand, modify the diameter of the magnet hole and on the other, modify the union center of the sensor and the magnet. The problem is that I did not know that the sensor is inserted into the part through the internal part of the pedal, so now the sensor pins protrude very little from the part, and I think I will have problems connecting the 3-pin Dupont connector .
I have finally ordered this on Aliexpress (https://es.aliexpress.com/item/4000...67f8bedb4caebcd2862cf084fa75&tmLog=new_Detail) and RS allows you to collect the Allegro A1324 sensor in Madrid without shipping costs so it is cheap to buy it directly in the RS store
Until the aliexpress cables arrive, I don't think I can move any further.
If you are interested in the info of the 3D_8mm I will upload it as soon as I can.

 

[Ozanelm]

I Just recieved my 1324 s and tried with latest design. Im using g25 pedals with Leonardo usb mod. You guys Said pedals outputs are 3.3v but i read 5v on mine when i check it from potans output.

My problem is i did all the wiring and tried it, but with hall sensor mod, reading is really really low. I mean, when i go to Windows controller test thing, it only moves little with position change. Should i do a calibration of some sort or use diffrent program to calibrate?

 

[GeekyDeaks]

Im using g25 pedals with Leonardo usb mod. You guys Said pedals outputs are 3.3v but i read 5v on mine when i check it from potans output.

Hi! Yes, you are correct, I did say 3.3v, but this is because I am using the G29 which supplies 3.3v. I believe all the previous models are 5v.

My problem is i did all the wiring and tried it, but with hall sensor mod, reading is really really low.

It might be better to measure the voltage coming out of the A1324 first to double check things are working ok. The distance and strength of the magnets are quite critical to the design. Can you post a photo of your setup here?

 

[HH Schneider]

@GeekyDeaks im not used to all of this but i really want to try and do this.. but im not sure what is the best way to start this project.. it seems like the side exit is easier for me to install.. but when i see the file located here. ( https://github.com/GeekyDeaks/g29-hall-sensor-mod/tree/master/mod/stl ), i notice the side-exit-mag.stl & side-exit-sensor.stl is the same design. so which file actually i need to download and passed to the 3d pritings service people?

and since i used the same g29, do we need to do something of setting or is it just like plug and play.. coz what i understand here is to just put magnet & hall sensor in the 3d printed and wired it up.. its just as simple as that right?

 

[GeekyDeaks]

i notice the side-exit-mag.stl & side-exit-sensor.stl is the same design. so which file actually i need to download and passed to the 3d pritings service people?

Whoops, that was sloppy of me! I'll fix that today.

and since i used the same g29, do we need to do something of setting or is it just like plug and play.. coz what i understand here is to just put magnet & hall sensor in the 3d printed and wired it up.. its just as simple as that right?

You will need to do a bit of tinkering to get the calibration right. The reason for going down this route was to allow the mod to still work with the G29 wheel so that the pedals could still be used on a PS4. To accomplish this, the tolerances on the field strength are a little tight. This might mean you have to play a bit with magnet strength and distance from the sensor. You will also need to find the sweet spot to get the maximum voltage swing out of the pedal travel. This is done by simply rotating the sensor holder slightly until the rest voltage is high and doesn't clip, then checking that there is no clipping at 0v when the pedal is fully applied