G25 F1 wheel mod

Ok Ive wanted to make a F1 style wheel for a long while now. Im going to take my G25 and a wheel from a joytech Williams F1 wheel. I will be incorporating my Sli-M and the buttons and rotary encoders. I will keep updating this as I go.

The wheel arrived at 9am this morning and ive been dismantling and removing the circuit boards from it. for the buttons I will be placing some miniature momentary switches behind the button so it will look original and the rotaries will be were the 3 bigger buttons were.

Heres what I have so far. Im just waiting on some plexi and some servo leads

DSCN0963.jpg


Big thanks to Roadster-2 for the wheel
 
If anyone else can supply a model number for the Joytech units with force feedback then please pm me the details and also let me know the wheel colour, front colour (carbon fibre or Silver) and number of paddles. Hopefully over a period of time we can build up a list of model numbers and their specifications.

I have one of these wheels coming from eBay, I'll pass details on when it arrives.

Whilst looking at your photos I was wondering, do you think the quick release connector would be strong enough to take other types of wheels - for example the standard G25 one (with neck and paddles) or even a larger car wheel? I am considering trying to get a second one so I can swap between the F1 wheel and a more conventional wheel if it can take the load.

Great posts, you inspired me to stop lurking and register an account :D
 
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Hi and welcome to Chris's post. I would think that the connector itself would be strong enough. My concern would be that in fitting a G25 or G27 steering wheel with it's shifter paddles via the Joytech quick-release connector it's position would be further from the base unit, thereby increasing the amount of force being applied to the shaft and bearings inside the base. It might seem Ok at first but you know what it's like when you find yourself fighting for position.

If you're going to do something like this then you might want to consider using a lighter wheel.

Thanks for the comment. I have had a few of these Joytech units for a while and it's Chris's work that's inspired me to 'get on with it' at long last.
 
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yeah im not 100% sure but the quick release uses a screw in type of connection. Im not sure is I knew I wasnt going to use it before I cut it off so connecting the origional g25 wheel wouldn't be really possible. unless you do it like I have done mine.so I could basicaly take the 3 mounting screws out and disconnect the Sli-m with the molex connector to usb lead I have inside the wheel. and replace the g25 wheel. you could fit a full size car wheel but the rotation and added stress on the wheel I think would mess with it and make the feeling ffb less.

*edit* also you would have to keep the g25 shifters intact for the normal wheel.
 
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probably.

as for my wheel it had its first race today in fsr. At barcelona I got to lap 35 before my car bottomed out going into the last chicane and spun me as I got traction back and I lost a wheel in the wall and ended up 17th. Next race is monaco. God help me. this week wheel will be complete except for the carbon.
 
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was really comfortable. all buttons and dials are within easy reach. felt solid and better to drive with than the G25 round wheel within a f1 mod.

haha id have to ask the wife about the smile but felt good to use something id built and race with it. (will have to work on her to get a cockpit but thatll be in a few years yet lol)
 
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finally got some more work done

Ok this is how I'm connecting the buttons so the are secure. I take some perspex ans so it will fit over the holes for the buttons. I drill for the legs of the buttons to be soldered.
DSCN0999.jpg

DSCN0997.jpg


I cut the buttons in half as they wouldn't fit with my new buttons. they look like they are original from the outside. I also added another button on the bottom of the wheel for the shift lights to configure them for new cars.
DSCN1001.jpg

DSCN1002.jpg


I then glued the perspex into place. and the configure button. Looks a little messy but isn't a lot of space to work with.
DSCN1003.jpg


I refit the centre of the wheel there should be 4 buttons here but the sli-m only has enough connections for 10 buttons and 3 rotarys.
DSCN1004.jpg


Thats all for now I will keep you in suspense for the finishing shots until I have the carbon vinyl to finish it off.
 
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Hi all after a very trying time for myself and my family with my father dying Ive finally finished the wheel. all carboned and finished all works great feels comfortable. I may need to go over the carbon a bit and flatten some out after looking at the pic makes imperfections stand out more..

DSCN1017.jpg
 
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Yes, sorry to hear about your loss Chris.

The wheel came out very nice. cpl questions not sure if you know about or not.... You know about heat with the vinyl CF right? you can use either a heat gun or a hair dryer to heat the cf up and then easier to mold around corners and things. You do not need a whole lot of heat, just enough to soften it up some.
another tip is on the top pieces, i cut around the edge, then let the remainder drop down to the lower section. But if that is the look your going for, then that came out nice and smooth to the different levels from what i can see.
 
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yea I heated it with a hair dryer. Its like 30c here when I did it so I was either cooking my hand or my lap when I was doing it lol. There is A few different levels at the top of the wheel where the Sli-m is is pushed out of the wheel as it wouldnt of fitted with the wires attatched. If I could of done it again I would of cut out the back of the wheel and Built out the back and kept the front flush altho I would of still had to redo the front as the panal that was there wouldnt of fitted the Sli-M. There was a few odd angels so getting the carbon to form these was annoying. I had to cut it near the bottom as there was no way to mold it into these shapes. But for my first go I think it looks good.
 
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Hi Chris. You wont be able to do this. What you will need to do is to obtain a small USB hub and use the existing USB cable to feed the hub, then connect the SLI-M and the SimScreen to the hub. You may have to remove the plastic casing from the hub in order to fit it inside the wheel.

Unfortunately I haven't had any time to advance my Joytech Williams wheel but I'm still thinking about what to use. Either an SLI-Pro or a SimScreen display with an SLI-M. The SimScreen should be a good fit - I have printed off and cut out a full size image of it so that I can check the exact fitting position.

Regards
 
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