FFB Settings for Thrustmaster TS-PC Racer
- Thread starter mhcbod
- Start date
There are a million different opinions available on the internet/forms.....what are the default settings for your wheel not giving you?
Default settings: ( long ) corners feel spongy and not natural, on long straits almost no feeling at all. So i would be glad to have one or two opinions ( of the million ) to try them. I tried numerous different settings. Non of those does the trick.
Thx
Raceroom has always been pretty flat on straights.
The only way I've heard on how to improve it is by editing a line in a file which adds a vibration.
As for recommendations I'd probably start here....
The only way I've heard on how to improve it is by editing a line in a file which adds a vibration.
As for recommendations I'd probably start here....
Best bet than is to post on the Raceroom form and ask for some advice.
Asides from editing the ffb files as I mentioned there's really nothing you can do about that as it's always felt like driving on a pool table.
As for the long sweeping turns....I'd first use the in-game ffb meter widget to make sure your not clipping...adjust if needed, than play with the lateral setting and try lowering it.
That's if it's still there?
They updated the ffb in June 21
I was heavily invested in Raceroom for many yrs but moved on and haven't played it for quit some time now.
I just couldn't get along with the ffb and Raceroom was having issues with Random Thrustmaster wheels which effected my wheel when damage was enabled....the car suspension would break after touching a curb causing the wheel to go full force lock to lock
Asides from editing the ffb files as I mentioned there's really nothing you can do about that as it's always felt like driving on a pool table.
As for the long sweeping turns....I'd first use the in-game ffb meter widget to make sure your not clipping...adjust if needed, than play with the lateral setting and try lowering it.
That's if it's still there?
They updated the ffb in June 21
I was heavily invested in Raceroom for many yrs but moved on and haven't played it for quit some time now.
I just couldn't get along with the ffb and Raceroom was having issues with Random Thrustmaster wheels which effected my wheel when damage was enabled....the car suspension would break after touching a curb causing the wheel to go full force lock to lock
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sorry he didnt get on with it, well if you race all the games rroom is basically at the top for the past 6 months. its really good and may be you have a glitch, however:
for my very similar wheel using the same driver in windows you prob use I use defaults, 100 then 85 linear and 2% minimum. (may be update your driver from scratch, sometimes I needed to do this for my wheel in the past, it would reset itself, there is a process on their webpage to reset the driver, yes, but also the firmware later if you need - the one where it involves pressing buttons simultaneously when you turn on the wheel to wipe the base clean)
I do not use engine vibration or gear jolt but sometimes I use the gear jolt, or curbs, i used to but its more true to leave that at 0 those sliders, when I do I may but jolt on 8% and curb on a couple as well vibration.
gets in the way tbh and its already got that slightly.
I map a key for the ffb meter, important; for me its "/" since the UI adjustment is by default "M" iirc. then I map a key to move the UI (if its not done already, to M), and put that ffb meter pressing "/" when mapped to the bottom left. I map keys in fact on num pad to move all UI header, times, names etc on/off, you can do that in settings
If I see said ffb meter go red, I have mapped plus key on numpad and minus key to ffb, and I adjust down one.
It will feel wooden, but trust me, its much same strength if you lower it, one by one until no clipping.
should feel great.
For rf2 I got an online meter - and use the free version of simhub so trust me the race room way is much appreciated. rf2 you have no idea and must do more tial and error, in rroom if you follow the above I am sure you will only have to lower ffb scale once in a while, and once done its set for ever.
check your control panel in case its not default in windows
for my very similar wheel using the same driver in windows you prob use I use defaults, 100 then 85 linear and 2% minimum. (may be update your driver from scratch, sometimes I needed to do this for my wheel in the past, it would reset itself, there is a process on their webpage to reset the driver, yes, but also the firmware later if you need - the one where it involves pressing buttons simultaneously when you turn on the wheel to wipe the base clean)
I do not use engine vibration or gear jolt but sometimes I use the gear jolt, or curbs, i used to but its more true to leave that at 0 those sliders, when I do I may but jolt on 8% and curb on a couple as well vibration.
gets in the way tbh and its already got that slightly.
I map a key for the ffb meter, important; for me its "/" since the UI adjustment is by default "M" iirc. then I map a key to move the UI (if its not done already, to M), and put that ffb meter pressing "/" when mapped to the bottom left. I map keys in fact on num pad to move all UI header, times, names etc on/off, you can do that in settings
If I see said ffb meter go red, I have mapped plus key on numpad and minus key to ffb, and I adjust down one.
It will feel wooden, but trust me, its much same strength if you lower it, one by one until no clipping.
should feel great.
For rf2 I got an online meter - and use the free version of simhub so trust me the race room way is much appreciated. rf2 you have no idea and must do more tial and error, in rroom if you follow the above I am sure you will only have to lower ffb scale once in a while, and once done its set for ever.
check your control panel in case its not default in windows
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in addition to my settings outlined above I make sure that I have traction control mapped to the wheel, for my wheel I use its up and down for traction control in rroom, if acc I use middle buttons (since there is no DRS usually/completely in ACC). for engine mapping i use left and right.
If you use your traction control wisely though its not as full on as in rf2 for example, you will find it will blend with your ffb and controlling the car much better.
in games as well like these I just use the keyboard arrows for the pit menu if I have to change that out. brakes as well are mapped to wheel and ABS (in ACC) in AC i map kers f1 battery system to the wheel.
see above post; doing both of these with the ffb increased my usability and enjoyment 10 fold for sims, but I didnt sort it out until probably last year haha.
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To explain myself; I had a proper setup to adjust to taste in an easy way.
Typed my ass of for about an hour, you were several times online after that but decided to ignore my message.
I didn't like that; it was a long, long write and had to look up a lot in the game for that.
So, I took it off.
Typed my ass of for about an hour, you were several times online after that but decided to ignore my message.
I didn't like that; it was a long, long write and had to look up a lot in the game for that.
So, I took it off.
Well you have a bad attitude or are just entitled. Its up to you, no use complaining to me - I already know its basically one of the best...its known also for its FFB and physics lol... if you do wind up playing it, you won't regret it but you naturally need a good car and track combination you like.
To be honest its the simplest of all the sims to set up and they provide the manual in the menu. How hard could it be. You set it up for the other titles.
Got to be something obvious.
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This has nothing to do with attitude. Yeah it is not hard to set up and yeah the manual is in the menu. But the setup does not have the result other Sims provide. And that is the benchmark for me. It is possible it is someting obvious, but did not find it yet. Nevertheless thank you for your effort and time.
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