Fanatec V2 wheel your thoughts

[Tony Gentile]

Hi just need some info on the new Fanatec v2 wheel
Looking at getting the v2
Not that there is anything wrong with our trusty T500
Have heard good things about the next version wheel from fanatec
Hows the feedback?
Which wheel you prefer?
Wheel settings?

Doh should have posted this on the hardware site

 

[Kjell Eilertsen]

You should have sent it back immediately instead of trying to use an adapter if you were unsure if the adapter would work. I don't know which retailer you chose to use but you should returned it immediately when you realized it was the wrong cable and asked for a proper replacement before blaming Thrustmaster for a "faulty" product. The product may not have been faulty at all but using a third party power adapter could have killed the wheel. How do you ever know your wheel wasn't a refurb or return? Amazon was a safe bet, you would have been fine with Amazon. Hate to keep preaching it but whenever you're taking a risk on a product as you feel you did, go with Amazon and your bases will always be covered.

First of all, we're talking about a different plug here, nothing else, UK and the rest of Europe has the same voltage and frequency but the plug differs, so there's no reason why he should not use an adapter.
Second, he did ask the supplier which told him to try with the adapter.

 

[Kjell Eilertsen]

are the GT2/3 good wheels, I know people rave about the TX, but im currently sending one back due to wrong power supply.., and how is the FFB compared.. Theyre both belt driven. I suppose the weight of the Porsche wheel dampens the ffb some what.

Must admit didn't like the stock pedals on the TX, they were to strong for the weight of the base, so I had right foot holding down the base while braking.

The TX is stronger and faster, very noticeably so too.

 

[Msportdan]

just to add to this, I managed to get the wheel to work, before I unplugged it I tried raceroo, for a solid half hour the FFB kept getting weak and stronger and it seemed like the wheel would calibrate with me still driving. Even seemed like it was inverting the ffb because I had to keep turning it on and off to make it feel right.


So its all packaged up and going back, as they have none with a UK plug, stupid I know, ill be getting a refund.

Now I have no wheel, and a decision either to get a GT3/2 or another TX from somewhere else. I would like a belt driven wheel, and not one over 300£ so that limits my options I know

is that due to the lighter hollower wheel of the TX kjell>?

 

[Kjell Eilertsen]

No, rather from a smaller and weaker motor I think.

 

[Blkout]

First of all, we're talking about a different plug here, nothing else, UK and the rest of Europe has the same voltage and frequency but the plug differs, so there's no reason why he should not use an adapter.
Second, he did ask the supplier which told him to try with the adapter.

Understood but you can't really blame Thrustmaster if the wheel fails using an adapter that wasn't part of the package with the wheel. Its great that his supplier/retailer said they would cover him if he tried it but that just puts the blame on the supplier, not Thrustmaster if the wheel fails due to the adapter. I don't know even know if the adapter was to blame, but it is an extra component that wasn't supposed to be there and mysteriously the wheel could have failed in a day because of it, or maybe it had nothing to do with it, but we'll never know.

 

[Blkout]

just to add to this, I managed to get the wheel to work, before I unplugged it I tried raceroo, for a solid half hour the FFB kept getting weak and stronger and it seemed like the wheel would calibrate with me still driving. Even seemed like it was inverting the ffb because I had to keep turning it on and off to make it feel right.


So its all packaged up and going back, as they have none with a UK plug, stupid I know, ill be getting a refund.

Now I have no wheel, and a decision either to get a GT3/2 or another TX from somewhere else. I would like a belt driven wheel, and not one over 300£ so that limits my options I know

is that due to the lighter hollower wheel of the TX kjell>?

You are not going to get a better wheel than the TX/T300 unless you get a CSW v2. The pedals are a different story but those wheel bases are quite good. The T500RS wheel base is arguably as good but in a different way. It has more torque but isn't quite as smooth or quick as the TX/T300.

 

[Blkout]

My CSWv2 beta is still going strong for 5 months now.

Never had any issue with it. Besides the bolts of the hub being loose the very first day, the base has been flawless.

The base is super strong and fast, the FFB effects still feel as clear and crisp as they did the first day.

Fanatec has an excellent choice of different rims and i love every one of them.

I always use the special bolt to secure the quick release of the rim to the base. Without the bolt there is always some play on the QR, eventhough this is minimal i only settle for zero play.This makes the wheel much more silent. The bolt also gives a better and more direct force feedback because nothing is lost in the connection between the rim and the wheelbase. It only take about 10 extra seconds.

I have total confidence in the reliabilty of my CSWv2 base, i sold my CSWv2 backup months ago.

Very much looking forward to the XB1 rim (which will be my 5th rim, i check the fanatec site every day).
The wait is long, but it worth it. Hope we will get PS4 confirmation soon.

No doubt the accuforce wheel be stronger, faster ect ect, but the CSWv2 has more power available than i ever need. It already reaches the limit of what my shoulders can handle. This is with "FORCE" set to 100%, but there is still room to increase the force to 150% in the tuning menu.

I hope the beta testers weren't sent golden units to test because I haven't heard a beta CSW v2 failing, but my retail version did after 11 days and there are a few others on the iRacing forum that had to send their retail units back already. Maybe its just poor QC at Fanatec as usual, but I really want a working CSW v2, I love the wheel so I'm going to be very disappointed if it comes back from repair and breaks again. I have a code to purchase another CSW v2 and I considered using it to buy a second base as a back-up in case one breaks but that's a very expensive solution for a wheel that should work properly at least for the first 2-3 years. If I'm going to buy two bases and I already have two rims, I might as well just get an Accuforce for about the same price as all of the Fanatec gear and be done with it since I know its not going to break.

 

[Skazz]

Now I have no wheel, and a decision either to get a GT3/2 or another TX from somewhere else. I would like a belt driven wheel, and not one over 300£ so that limits my options I know

is that due to the lighter hollower wheel of the TX kjell>?

This thread is totally derailed

Mate, I own a DFGT, G25, Fanatec GT2, T300 and T500... I seem to be collecting them, but it's quite fun to compare and contrast.

In terms of power the GT2 motor feels similar to the G25. It has a LOT of internal damping, though. The Porsche rim is very heavy and that inertia combined with a relatively weak motor is often frustrating. I was using drift mode 5 just to get the wheel freely moving, but that came with disadvantages of a tendency to overcompensate.

I personally rate the GT2 as less enjoyable to use than the G25 or either Thrustmaster wheel. Mostly because I want a wheel which is free moving and easy to steer with. The GT2 felt like I had to fight the wheel too much.

On the other hand, if you like alcantara and don't mind a heavy wheel, the Fanatec Porsche wheels are lovely and smooth to use, and perfectly fine to race with. It's all about which set of compromises you like, and getting used to a new wheel before writing it off just because it feels different to the previous one

 

[Kjell Eilertsen]

Understood but you can't really blame Thrustmaster if the wheel fails using an adapter that wasn't part of the package with the wheel.

That's pretty much the same as saying he shouldn't blame Thrustmaster for his wheel failing because he was using an extention cord... It's a plug, there's no way in hell it had anything to do with his problem.

 

[Msportdan]

Hhmm I did like the TX quick precise feel. I may just reorder from another retailer. I'll find a better way to secure pedal base to floor

Even contemplated going for a g27 again. Not sure though

 

[Kjell Eilertsen]

Hhmm I did like the TX quick precise feel. I may just reorder from another retailer. I'll find a better way to secure pedal base to floor

Even contemplated going for a g27 again. Not sure though

I would very much recommend the TX/T300 over a G27.
As much as I would want to recommend a Fanatec wheel over the TX/T300, I don't think any of the current wheels from Fanatec in the same price range can really compete with that FFB, you need to dish out much more to get anything as good or better (CSW v2) and I totally understand that that's out of reach.
I didn't return my T300 because I was unhappy with it's FFB, I just realized that if I was gonna keep it then I'd be spending a lot of money on buying a custom rim and getting some shifter paddles and buttons on that wheel, and at the end of the day I'd be spending almost as much as the CSW cost me, so I figured I might just stretch that little extra because I have been drooling over the CSW base for a year already.
Bottom line, if you ask me, get a TX or a T300, you'll be happier with that I think. The only reason I can see to get the GT3 instead is because you want better pedals (if you get the CSR Elite ones), but you could always order a set of those to go with your TX later on, and for the G27 the ONLY bonus is that you get a shifter, but again, I really don't recommend people buying the G27 these days.

 

[Blkout]

That's pretty much the same as saying he shouldn't blame Thrustmaster for his wheel failing because he was using an extention cord... It's a plug, there's no way in hell it had anything to do with his problem.

OK. I'm not familiar with EU power cables and adapters, I did say quite clearly that it may have nothing to do with the wheel failure.

 

[Blkout]

Hhmm I did like the TX quick precise feel. I may just reorder from another retailer. I'll find a better way to secure pedal base to floor

Even contemplated going for a g27 again. Not sure though

In my honest opinion, while the G27 pretty much assures you'll get a reliable wheel for the next 2-3 years, you'll be missing out on the better FFB available from more current offerings. If the TX or T300 were hard to get and you had to send it back for repair like I did my CSW v2, I could understand the hesitation on getting another one but since you can send it back and get new replacement, I would just do that. I love my CSW v2 dearly while it worked for 11 days but to be honest, it F'ing sucks knowing I couldn't buy it from Amazon and get a replacement immediately due to its failure.

 

[RaceNut]

There have been a number of people recently having issues with inconsistencies of the CSWv2 hub Quick-release mating up with the wheel half. Some are too tight to get the wheel on and some are sloppy. It may be related to older wheels vs. the new QR on the v2 but, the manufacturing tolerances of the QR's should be the same in either case.

It may be something to check for if you get a CSWv2 - especially if using a wheel from the CSWv1.

There are some other cases where hub mounting bolts are loose as well. Using a bit of mild lock-tight and tightening should help with that.

 

[Kjell Eilertsen]

It may be related to older wheels vs. the new QR on the v2 but, the manufacturing tolerances of the QR's should be the same in either case.

Actually no, one of the improvements for the v2 was smaller tolerances for the QR, this because several v1 owners was reporting too much play in the QR when not using the safety pin/screw. I have a old BMW rim and a new Formula rim, the F rim is tight like hell but the BMW rim is a bit sloppier, not too bad but I tend to use the pin/screw with that rim.

 

[Moxley6969]

You have a heck of a lot more leverage on the QR with the BMW wheel as opposed to the F1. I also run the pin on my BMW and Not my Formula but if you torque the F1 wheel you will also feel a slight tick of play. Not Anywhere noticeable while racing unlike the BMW where it is rather obvious if you know what your feeling for.

 

[Blkout]

There have been a number of people recently having issues with inconsistencies of the CSWv2 hub Quick-release mating up with the wheel half. Some are too tight to get the wheel on and some are sloppy. It may be related to older wheels vs. the new QR on the v2 but, the manufacturing tolerances of the QR's should be the same in either case.

It may be something to check for if you get a CSWv2 - especially if using a wheel from the CSWv1.

There are some other cases where hub mounting bolts are loose as well. Using a bit of mild lock-tight and tightening should help with that.

Actually no, one of the improvements for the v2 was smaller tolerances for the QR, this because several v1 owners was reporting too much play in the QR when not using the safety pin/screw. I have a old BMW rim and a new Formula rim, the F rim is tight like hell but the BMW rim is a bit sloppier, not too bad but I tend to use the pin/screw with that rim.

I read on the iRacing forum some people were having problems with early model Formula and BMW GT rims not fitting on the new quick release hub. Apparently Fanatec will fix them if you send the rims to them to be updated. That being said, any rims you buy today "should" work I believe. I purchased a Carbon Formula rim right before my wheel died and it fit just fine so it must have been updated.

I used the pin with both of my rims regardless. Only takes 30 seconds and just insures a solid fit.

 

[Pär Öqvist]

This is the thread we discuss every wheel but the CSW V2

 

[RaceNut]

Actually no, one of the improvements for the v2 was smaller tolerances for the QR, this because several v1 owners was reporting too much play in the QR when not using the safety pin/screw. I have a old BMW rim and a new Formula rim, the F rim is tight like hell but the BMW rim is a bit sloppier, not too bad but I tend to use the pin/screw with that rim.

You make a valid point and I use the lock-pin on my v1/BMW GT2 combo for that very reason..

 

[Brian McManus]

I find my bmw & formula rims qr sloppy compared to the uni hub
I always had to use the bolt on those rims because the qr rattles ,
But I use the bolt in all my wheels ,the feedback feels better when everything is tightened down.

But I am enjoying the v2,
It arrived in early December only for my cpu cooler pump to stop working then my motherboard,
So I ordered a new motherboard and upgraded my graphics card to a gtx980 4gb along with new cpu cooler.

I briefly played gt6 on PS3 until the parts arrived.
It felt good but not much detail, it was an improvement on my v1 with the PS3.

My motherboard came yesterday after a long wait, the graphics card and cooler waiting to be installed.
I got everything built last night and got assetto installed for a quick run.
The base felt really good so much detail it felt strong and quick ,
The v1 felt sluggish compared to it.
You can feel it a lot more in the hands and arms.

Tonight did some hot lapping in spa with the system setup properly I was really enjoying it.....until my luck the screen went black and the powered died
I couldn't believe me luck after going through the holidays with no pc
Turns out the the Psu is gone now.
I learnt my lesson with cheap power supplies.
So hopefully I can get sorted before the weekend and get some time in with the wheel base.

Hopefully nothing else goes