Fanatec Static Paddles (DIY)

[capitan_penurias]

Hello !

I build a complete static paddles for Fanatec wheelbases, including the electronics needed to connect the paddles to the SHIFTER2 port. The main advantage of this project is that you can design your own sequential shifter and plug it into the base directly, avoiding using a microcontroller (and a usb port). All the parts are 3D printed.

GitHub page (Fanashifter)

 

[RacingMat]

thanks for sharing your files on github!
how's the feeling? is it rigid enough?

 

[capitan_penurias]

thanks for sharing your files on github!
how's the feeling? is it rigid enough?

The feeling is awesome.
And sounds great

 

[mechsicko]

Nice work and perfect timing for me since I'm about to start wiring a push/pull shifter I'm making and needed this exact info. Your mod allows you to use the shifter on port 1 but I'm wondering if you only plan on using port 2 which is made for Seq do you still need to use resistors and all 6 wires? I have a CS1.0 plugged into port 1 so my diy seq will be in port 2.

Is it possible to just use the 3 wires (ground/up/down) plus the jumper? When I look as Ascher's cable for theirs it looks pretty simple, no resistors/boards just a few wires and the Rj plug.

 

[capitan_penurias]

Hello.

In the reversed doc, the switches work as pull up (low means pushed) so you need the resistors. You can connect the shifter in whatever port (port2 only accepts sequential shifters, no H-shaped ones). I connect it to port2 because I have an H in port1.

I'm computer engineer, not electronic one... And I can't tell you if it works without the resistors (I think not). The board is very simple and you only need two cheap 10K resistors.

If you need more help, I'll be glad to help you.

Kind Regards

 

[mechsicko]

Thanks for the quick reply.. after rewatching Barry's video of the Ascher unit it really seems it's just plain wiring, no breakout box and no suspicious lumps in the wire harness. I have all the parts to do it either way but am going to test simple wiring first with breadboard because now I'm curious and will share what I find.

 

[capitan_penurias]

Thanks for the quick reply.. after rewatching Barry's video of the Ascher unit it really seems it's just plain wiring, no breakout box and no suspicious lumps in the wire harness. I have all the parts to do it either way but am going to test simple wiring first with breadboard because now I'm curious and will share what I find.

Thinking about it, the key maybe the switches. I use normally open ones (so if not pushed, they send a HIGH value with the resistors, in my wiring configuration). If you use a normally closed ones, you can wire them without resistors (when pushed, you open the circuit and low is send).

Hope it helps,

 

[mechsicko]

Did a quick test before some racing tonight. The 3 wires on their own works for buttons. To test I just shorted the pull/push signal wires to ground (same thing a normally-open switch does) using Fanatec/windows game controller to test.

Behaves same as my Fanatec shifter in seq mode. The advantage of doing it the way you did is you could use yours in port 1 but for port 2 it's already done internally. The Vcc pin still had 3.3v but I didn't need jump the other pins or bridge them to the Vcc.

tl:dr: simple 3 wire scheme is fine for shifter2 ^_^

 

[capitan_penurias]

Did a quick test before some racing tonight. The 3 wires on their own works for buttons. To test I just shorted the pull/push signal wires to ground (same thing a normally-open switch does) using Fanatec/windows game controller to test.

Behaves same as my Fanatec shifter in seq mode. The advantage of doing it the way you did is you could use yours in port 1 but for port 2 it's already done internally. The Vcc pin still had 3.3v but I didn't need jump the other pins or bridge them to the Vcc.

tl:dr: simple 3 wire scheme is fine for shifter2 ^_^

Thank you very much for your test. Can you provide a simple schema?
I will update the documentation (with your permission and credit, of course)

Thank you very much!

 

[mechsicko]

Thank you very much for your test. Can you provide a simple schema?
I will update the documentation (with your permission and credit, of course)

Thank you very much!

No problem, and you're quite welcome. I used the free schematic tool thing on Digi-Key, pretty useful thing I only just discovered though I couldn't figure out how to make text boxes to annotate. Anyhow, here's the simple wiring version only for use in Shifter2 port:

 

[capitan_penurias]

Thank you very much. I will update the doc today. I will post the update this night/tomorrow (Spain, GMT+1)

Thank you again!
great work!

 

[StuyoDGr8]

Hi,

I have been using your Fanashifter project for several of my mods (sequential and push-pull shifter), very helpful guide and saved me lot of time.
Now I am thinking of extending it. Recently I bought a BDH shifter to replace my Fanatec one. It is button based with a Joystick USB controller. It works well, but I would prefer to connect it through the base and use the built in functionality.

My idea is to to reconfigure an Arduino to read all 8 buttons and translate them as analog values on two pins - this way fooling the Fanatec base it has two potentiometer connected and ultimately use the built in protocol.
Based on all documentation it looks in theory like it could work, what do you think?
Also question is what is the VCC of the Fanatec base - 3.3V or 5V? Ultimately it should be used to drive the Arduino as well.

Thanks!

 

[capitan_penurias]

Hi,

I have been using your Fanashifter project for several of my mods (sequential and push-pull shifter), very helpful guide and saved me lot of time.
Now I am thinking of extending it. Recently I bought a BDH shifter to replace my Fanatec one. It is button based with a Joystick USB controller. It works well, but I would prefer to connect it through the base and use the built in functionality.

My idea is to to reconfigure an Arduino to read all 8 buttons and translate them as analog values on two pins - this way fooling the Fanatec base it has two potentiometer connected and ultimately use the built in protocol.
Based on all documentation it looks in theory like it could work, what do you think?
Also question is what is the VCC of the Fanatec base - 3.3V or 5V? Ultimately it should be used to drive the Arduino as well.

Thanks!

Hello. The're should be no problem fooling the base with and arduino. Note that the VCC pin that COMES from the base, carries 3.3V, so you must match that voltage if you use some powered electronics. The easy way is using a friendly 3.3V arduino, instead a 5V (e.g. the pro micro is a good option). You should not have any problem.

 

[StuyoDGr8]

Hello. The're should be no problem fooling the base with and arduino. Note that the VCC pin that COMES from the base, carries 3.3V, so you must match that voltage if you use some powered electronics. The easy way is using a friendly 3.3V arduino, instead a 5V (e.g. the pro micro is a good option). You should not have any problem.

Thanks, exactly to the point - was thinking to use a pro micro if 3.3v directly driven by base.
I am very bad at programming but this should be simple enough. When I get home later this month will make some test and post results here. Thanks again!

 

[capitan_penurias]

Thanks, exactly to the point - was thinking to use a pro micro if 3.3v directly driven by base.
I am very bad at programming but this should be simple enough. When I get home later this month will make some test and post results here. Thanks again!

Hi!
Feel free to ask any questions you have.

Kind Regards!

 

[StuyoDGr8]

And now another theoretical question
As i still cannot test anything yet I am pondering on the following electrical problem:
Base is expecting to receive pulled down steady voltage from 3.3v. I already ordered arduino minis, which should be perfect for this install as they are 3.3v. What bothers me I am not sure if the PWM outputs will be enough to provide stable voltage for the base to read the values properly.
My other option would be to create some resistor matrix and powerup with digital output different resistor count based on digital inputs.
Third very bold idea is to test how base would behave with single value change - i.e. you have to calibrate shifter every time, it measures resistance values on X and Y. What if X for example is constant and Y is changed in 8 steps? Main question would be if base accepts some defined range of values or it programs itself. If this is possible it will be very easy to build a resistor cascade where you power different count of resistors with switching all the 8 buttons on the gear shifter. I know it is far fetched, but who knows. This is simple enough to test with set or different resistors and a cable.

 

[capitan_penurias]

And now another theoretical question
As i still cannot test anything yet I am pondering on the following electrical problem:
Base is expecting to receive pulled down steady voltage from 3.3v. I already ordered arduino minis, which should be perfect for this install as they are 3.3v. What bothers me I am not sure if the PWM outputs will be enough to provide stable voltage for the base to read the values properly.
My other option would be to create some resistor matrix and powerup with digital output different resistor count based on digital inputs.
Third very bold idea is to test how base would behave with single value change - i.e. you have to calibrate shifter every time, it measures resistance values on X and Y. What if X for example is constant and Y is changed in 8 steps? Main question would be if base accepts some defined range of values or it programs itself. If this is possible it will be very easy to build a resistor cascade where you power different count of resistors with switching all the 8 buttons on the gear shifter. I know it is far fetched, but who knows. This is simple enough to test with set or different resistors and a cable.

You can always power your device (e.g. esp32) using the 5V regulator and get 3.3V logic. Just use the USB (or pin VCC) input for 5V, and connect ground on fanatec base & power, leaving alone the 3.3V pin in the base.

In this post, there are some info about how the H-Shifter works (https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/23609/what-are-the-x-axis-voltages-for-h-pattern-shifter). I will keep things easy, and after reading the button "press" (gear change) I output the desired value on the PIN. Note that the H-Shifter uses a X-Y pattern using two input pins, with different voltage values. So 1 Gear should be X=0v Y=0V (example, I don't know exactly).

 

[StuyoDGr8]

You can always power your device (e.g. esp32) using the 5V regulator and get 3.3V logic. Just use the USB (or pin VCC) input for 5V, and connect ground on fanatec base & power, leaving alone the 3.3V pin in the base.

In this post, there are some info about how the H-Shifter works (https://forum.fanatec.com/discussion/23609/what-are-the-x-axis-voltages-for-h-pattern-shifter). I will keep things easy, and after reading the button "press" (gear change) I output the desired value on the PIN. Note that the H-Shifter uses a X-Y pattern using two input pins, with different voltage values. So 1 Gear should be X=0v Y=0V (example, I don't know exactly).

Thanks for the help! In the above link and also combined with all Fanashifter documentation I managed to come up with something.

This document has the needed measurements for resistor values, which would be as follows:

The idea is to use a PIC microcontroller (PIC16F690 in particular). It has low voltage requirements - can be powered with 2-5V, should be OK driven by the 3.3V on base. Code should be simple enough, in default it should keep mid-axis and Y resistors powered up and switch between X/Y combinations when button is activated. I put only one pullup resistor as we are using only one button at a time, should be fine.

Schema would be something like this i presume:

This should be simple enough solution, will be working on code next until my parts arrive. This part I presume will be relatively easy despite my total lack of development skills.

Here are some code examples I found, looks easy enough task:

Digital I/O - Beginner's Guide to PIC Programming - picguides.com

Simple 3 Button On-off With 12f629 (mikroC)

a simple 3 buttons on-off with pic12f629. it's written with MikroC Step 1: The Code... start the code with

atmega32-avr.com

https://circuitdigest.com/microcontroller-projects/led-blinking-sequence-with-pic16f877a

 

[capitan_penurias]

Thanks for the help! In the above link and also combined with all Fanashifter documentation I managed to come up with something.

This document has the needed measurements for resistor values, which would be as follows:

View attachment 600426

The idea is to use a PIC microcontroller (PIC16F690 in particular). It has low voltage requirements - can be powered with 2-5V, should be OK driven by the 3.3V on base. Code should be simple enough, in default it should keep mid-axis and Y resistors powered up and switch between X/Y combinations when button is activated. I put only one pullup resistor as we are using only one button at a time, should be fine.

Schema would be something like this i presume:
View attachment 600425

This should be simple enough solution, will be working on code next until my parts arrive. This part I presume will be relatively easy despite my total lack of development skills.

Here are some code examples I found, looks easy enough task:

Digital I/O - Beginner's Guide to PIC Programming - picguides.com

Simple 3 Button On-off With 12f629 (mikroC)

a simple 3 buttons on-off with pic12f629. it's written with MikroC Step 1: The Code... start the code with

atmega32-avr.com

https://circuitdigest.com/microcontroller-projects/led-blinking-sequence-with-pic16f877a

Hello,

It's a very elegant solution. I think it should work without problems. Simple code and simple wiring, and you get the work done. ¿ May I cite you with this info in the FanaShifter doc page at github?

Tell us about your progress !

 

[StuyoDGr8]

Hello,

It's a very elegant solution. I think it should work without problems. Simple code and simple wiring, and you get the work done. ¿ May I cite you with this info in the FanaShifter doc page at github?

Tell us about your progress !

Thanks! Definitely please pit it together with the rest documentation, will save me some troubles to create GIT branches

It will take me some time to actually make it as just now ordered parts, but theoretically looks good.

Cheers!