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Fanatec CSW 2.5 + Formula v2 Rim shaking while going straight

Hello guys, i recently bought the Fanatec CSW 2.5 + Formula V2 rim. Overall im pretty happy with how the wheel works but on any straight or on any track the wheel starts shaking massively. It just appears on the straights. I configured the settings fanatec posted as recommended on their forum but it just doesnt work properly.
Do you have any fix for me?

My Firmware :
PC Driver 347
WB FW 639
SW FW 27

My setup:
Base: CSW 2.5
Rim: Formula V2
Pedals: CSL Elite Pedals LC
 
Shot in the dark, but in the ACC FFB settings do you have any minimum force applied? I'm using a CSL Elite and have that set at 0%. Because it amplifies small forces it may cause that oscillation.

I'm also running gain at 80-85% depending on car so I'd imagine with the more powerful CSW you'd be lower than that. Might be worth turning off the road effects as well to rule that out. I run them at 0% anyway.

If none of that helps that maybe @RasmusP can help as he has a similar setup!
 

RasmusP

Premium
I'd say it's minimum force or a LUT. Can you post your ACC settings?
Also what setting do you have your Rotation Degrees on in the Game and on the wheel?
Less than 900° means you're compressing and amplifying forces so you'll end up with more than 100% ffb gain, resulting in shaking too.

I didn't run ACC in quite a long time but iirc:
0% minimum force
50% road
100% damper
900°
50% ffb gain

Wheel:
900°
80% gain
Drift: -2
 
My ACC Settings:
Gain 40%
Minimum Force 0
Dynamic Damping 100%
Road 0
Wheel 540

Fanatec Settings:
Sensitivity Auto
FFeedback 70
Schock Vib 0
BR ABS 0
Drift -3
Force 100
Spring 100
Damp 100
F Eff Int 70
 

RasmusP

Premium
My ACC Settings:
Gain 40%
Minimum Force 0
Dynamic Damping 100%
Road 0
Wheel 540

Fanatec Settings:
Sensitivity Auto
FFeedback 50
Schock Vib 0
BR ABS 0
Drift -3
Force 100
Spring 100
Damp 100
F Eff Int 70
Put sensitivity to 900 and the rotation (wheel) in the game to 900 too.
AC and ACC are meant to put both values manually to the same.
The game then calculates everything for you so you always have the correct and real life rotation while driving.
You do lose the softlock at the very end but to be honest I never hit that apart from when spinning.
Not talking about catching a slide. Then I don't reach it. But I reach it when I really spin...
But then I couldn't care less about the lock missing.
 
Yeah i did that but it didnt fixed the problem. Just a little bit less. I still cant let the wheel go and let it drive straight. It wobbles until it spins :/
 

RasmusP

Premium
Yeah i did that but it didnt fixed the problem. Just a little bit less. I still cant let the wheel go and let it drive straight. It wobbles until it spins :/
This really doesn't make much sense... Can you upload a video somewhere of this? maybe recorded with your phone or something, doesn't need to be good quality, just showing the problem.
It's normal that the car will shake itself up if you give an initial steering input and then let go off the wheel but when you're driving in a straight line it should just wobble a little without stability issues.
Especially with only 40% gain in the game and 70% in the wheel base plus Drift to -3...

Are you sure it's both set to 900° and you didn't switch the profile or the game did reset?

There is one last possibility: there's some... linearity/steering sensitivity.. Don't know what it's called but it's for controllers.

Anyway maybe post your controls.json in:
C:\Users\...\Documents\Assetto Corsa Competizione\Config

rename it to .ini and upload it in your post (drag&drop).
I'll have a look :)
 
I have fanatec CSW V2.5 and these are my settings

In-game settings
Gain 75
Min force 0
Damping 100
Road 0
Wheel 900
Frequency 333hz

Wheel settings
Sen 900
Ffb 100
Sho off
Abs 0
Drl -1
For 60
Spr 0
Dpr 0
Brf 30 but what ever suits the individual
Fei 100

I normally drive the Bentley and have no problems with these settings
You could be using too much " For " which would also make the wheel feel very heavy
Of course settings are personal and not every one has the same setup
Hope you get it sorted
 

RasmusP

Premium
Thanks for you input. Looks fine for me and you got no crazy shaking either I guess?
Seems there's some other setting screwed in his config then...
Wheel settings
Sen 900
Ffb 100
Sho off
Abs 0
Drl -1
For 60
Spr 0
Dpr 0
Just for your information:
I don't wanna sound big headed or anything. I just see this way too often because there are still a lot of guides who spread outdated information.
So a few people on here try to counter-spread the actual information.

If you have dpr at 0, dynamic dampening doesn't do anything afaik. It uses the dpr channel.

Also you lose the standing still rubber effect, which feels awful with Logitech wheels but quite nice imo with the fanatec wheels.

Acc, ac, rF2 and all modern Sims don't use spring at all. And they use dpr only for special situations like the gyro effect (dynamic dampening) or the standing still rubber effect.

You won't lose any details or fidelity when putting dpr to 100.

Also:
For, spr and dpr (force spring damper) are the only ffb channels that exist. If you don't use spr and dpr, for and the in-game gain become exactly the same setting.
For at 100 and in game gain at 60 are the same as for at 60 and in game gain at 100.

For some strange reason you can raise for beyond 100.
It only makes sense if the game gain slider doesn't have enough output. Never came across a game that has this problem though.

Anyway, in theory you could just delete the for setting but fanatec keeps it this way so you can mix your ffb channels to your liking and then quickly adjust the overall strength with ffb.
Logitech and Thrustmaster don't do this. You have to lower or raise all 3 channels to do the same. (motor output is always set at 100 and if you raise the for slider there, there's a hidden power limitation. But if you lower the for slider, you actually limit the motor output too. Basically a combination of ffb and for in one slider.)

Your settings don't have any problems though. Nothing is boosted into clipping or lowering anything.
I'd suggest you try to raise the dpr setting though if you'd like the standing still rubber effect.
Also also if you want to actually have any effect from the dynamic dampening.
I'm not 100% sure the dynamic dampening is using the dpr channel in acc but the gyro thingy in AC did.
 
I had this issue in the past. It has to do with in-game settings, and as others have said if i recall correctly i think it was Minimum force setting that caused it...
 
A little late to the party, but I have the same gear and experience EXACTLY the same thing and any combination of settings on the wheel or in game do nothing to fix it. As like the O.P. said, you need to grip the wheel TIGHT to hold it steady - loosen the pressure or take one hand off and it's a truggle to hold any car straight.

Video link:

It happens in AC & ACC, but not in F1 20xx or Dirt Rally. So presumably, there's a setting *somewhere* in each game that makes it do this.

Also worth noting that in both Kunos titles (but not present in other games) is this weird "Knocking" feeling at the centre point of the wheel - It kind of clunks over the middle point when changing direction.

I've kinda gotten used to it after owning it for as long as I have, but every time I go to other games, it reminds me that it's not "normal" and frustrates the hell out of me.

Happy to share settings, JSON files and LUT settings if you can point me in the direction of where to locate them, but here's what I have in front of me now.

At the wheel:
Sens: (Varies depending on the car I'm driving, buteither 900, 540 or 360 across different profiles - for ACC, it's 900)
FFB: 70% (although, I can run F120xx or dirt rally at 100% and the issues aren't present)
shck: 100
BR ABS: Off
Drift: -5
Force: 100
Spring: 0 (seems irrelevant to have it on in anything even remotely realistic)
Damper: Off (Same as above)
FEI: 100
MPS FNC: (irrelevant, but its set to) Auto

In game (I change these often, in the hopes it might help, but never seems to - happy to try differen settings if you think these are garbage, but here is what it's currently set as):

Gain:100
Minimum Force: 0 (I read somewhere that this has helped people, but it doesn't change it)
Dynamic Damping: 20%
Road Effects: 30 %
Frequency: 333
Lock: 900
Linearity: 1
Brake Gamma: 1
Gear debouncing: (irrelevant to this, but it's set to) 50ms

Kinda hoping someone has a solution because it's kinda driving me insane and putting a lot of unwanted stress on my wrists/shoulders fighting against it to hold the wheel straight. I understand that you can feel a road surface through the wheel at speed, but there's no way that the video above should be "realistic"
 

RasmusP

Premium
A little late to the party, but I have the same gear and experience EXACTLY the same thing and any combination of settings on the wheel or in game do nothing to fix it. As like the O.P. said, you need to grip the wheel TIGHT to hold it steady - loosen the pressure or take one hand off and it's a truggle to hold any car straight.

Video link:

It happens in AC & ACC, but not in F1 20xx or Dirt Rally. So presumably, there's a setting *somewhere* in each game that makes it do this.

Also worth noting that in both Kunos titles (but not present in other games) is this weird "Knocking" feeling at the centre point of the wheel - It kind of clunks over the middle point when changing direction.

I've kinda gotten used to it after owning it for as long as I have, but every time I go to other games, it reminds me that it's not "normal" and frustrates the hell out of me.

Happy to share settings, JSON files and LUT settings if you can point me in the direction of where to locate them, but here's what I have in front of me now.

At the wheel:
Sens: (Varies depending on the car I'm driving, buteither 900, 540 or 360 across different profiles - for ACC, it's 900)
FFB: 70% (although, I can run F120xx or dirt rally at 100% and the issues aren't present)
shck: 100
BR ABS: Off
Drift: -5
Force: 100
Spring: 0 (seems irrelevant to have it on in anything even remotely realistic)
Damper: Off (Same as above)
FEI: 100
MPS FNC: (irrelevant, but its set to) Auto

In game (I change these often, in the hopes it might help, but never seems to - happy to try differen settings if you think these are garbage, but here is what it's currently set as):

Gain:100
Minimum Force: 0 (I read somewhere that this has helped people, but it doesn't change it)
Dynamic Damping: 20%
Road Effects: 30 %
Frequency: 333
Lock: 900
Linearity: 1
Brake Gamma: 1
Gear debouncing: (irrelevant to this, but it's set to) 50ms

Kinda hoping someone has a solution because it's kinda driving me insane and putting a lot of unwanted stress on my wrists/shoulders fighting against it to hold the wheel straight. I understand that you can feel a road surface through the wheel at speed, but there's no way that the video above should be "realistic"
What's your per car gain? (going on track, hitting numpad + or - and check the number that shows at the top of the screen)

Knocking feeling at the center means too much gain. It can happen due to a LUT, minimum force, just too high gain somewhere or lack of dampening (for example dri to positive values).

So somewhere you have too much gain..

Also too much gain can happen due to the weird ffb compression that happens at lower degrees of the wheel.
If I'd set my g27 to only 450°, it would behave like having the gain at 150-200% although all gain settings where at 100%.

Since you're listing all settings and they're looking fine, I suspect LUT, per car gain or the steering degrees to be at fault.

Hope that helps, report back if you find something! :)
 
What's your per car gain? (going on track, hitting numpad + or - and check the number that shows at the top of the screen)

Knocking feeling at the center means too much gain. It can happen due to a LUT, minimum force, just too high gain somewhere or lack of dampening (for example dri to positive values).

So somewhere you have too much gain..

Also too much gain can happen due to the weird ffb compression that happens at lower degrees of the wheel.
If I'd set my g27 to only 450°, it would behave like having the gain at 150-200% although all gain settings where at 100%.

Since you're listing all settings and they're looking fine, I suspect LUT, per car gain or the steering degrees to be at fault.

Hope that helps, report back if you find something! :)

It would be whatever the default values are as I didn't know you could change gain per car... so probably something in the LUT I imagine
 

RasmusP

Premium
Please simply post your controls.ini and ff_post_processing.ini. From your documents/Assetto corsa/cfg folder.

I'll look through them
 
Here's the files after removing the LUT file, updating the info to reflect and then Verifying the game files - still does it though and the FF_post_process file still points to this LUT file that I deleted, so that must be a base game LUT table
 

Attachments

  • controls.ini
    2.9 KB · Views: 39
  • ff_post_process.ini
    95 bytes · Views: 35

RasmusP

Premium
That could be an issue - it's pointing to a LUT file I was using when I had my logitech wheel (probably VERY much the problem)
If ENABLED was =1, then it was definitely the problem as that LUT probably introduced 10-16% minimum force.
Here's the files after removing the LUT file, updating the info to reflect and then Verifying the game files - still does it though and the FF_post_process file still points to this LUT file that I deleted, so that must be a base game LUT table
[HEADER]
VERSION=1
TYPE=GAMMA
ENABLED=0

[GAMMA]
VALUE=0.5

[LUT]
CURVE=crazy1.lut

The crazy1 lut is indeed a stock file. Important is the ENABLED line. At "0", the whole ff_post_process.ini is disabled completely.

[FF_TWEAKS]
MIN_FF=0.05
CENTER_BOOST_GAIN=0
CENTER_BOOST_RANGE=0.1

Minimum force looks okay, 0.5% is nice with the csw, giving some rumble in the center but it shouldn't cause oscillations.
The center_boost_gain would've been another guess for the problem as.. well it boosts the ffb close to the center.
But it's at 0, so it's correct!

Rest of the controls.ini look good too.

Did you do a testdrive now without the LUT? Is the problem gone?
 
If ENABLED was =1, then it was definitely the problem as that LUT probably introduced 10-16% minimum force.

[HEADER]
VERSION=1
TYPE=GAMMA
ENABLED=0

[GAMMA]
VALUE=0.5

[LUT]
CURVE=crazy1.lut

The crazy1 lut is indeed a stock file. Important is the ENABLED line. At "0", the whole ff_post_process.ini is disabled completely.

[FF_TWEAKS]
MIN_FF=0.05
CENTER_BOOST_GAIN=0
CENTER_BOOST_RANGE=0.1

Minimum force looks okay, 0.5% is nice with the csw, giving some rumble in the center but it shouldn't cause oscillations.
The center_boost_gain would've been another guess for the problem as.. well it boosts the ffb close to the center.
But it's at 0, so it's correct!

Rest of the controls.ini look good too.

Did you do a testdrive now without the LUT? Is the problem gone?

Unless your highlighted sections are proposed changes that I should try (I'm not at home to compare the files right now), then my test drive continued presenting the issue. The force of the oscillation is the same at any speed, be it 10k/hour or 200 k/hr.

Something I noticed as well is that the notchy feeling happens at around the same steering angles that the oscillations go to on either side - so I'm guessing that the two issues may be linked.
 

RasmusP

Premium
Unless your highlighted sections are proposed changes that I should try (I'm not at home to compare the files right now), then my test drive continued presenting the issue. The force of the oscillation is the same at any speed, be it 10k/hour or 200 k/hr.

Something I noticed as well is that the notchy feeling happens at around the same steering angles that the oscillations go to on either side - so I'm guessing that the two issues may be linked.
No I only highlighted them as they would be the one causing the issue.
But they are correct.

I have no further idea sadly.. Are you using content manager? It has a habit of reloading control configs.

If you use it, please post a Screenshot of your controls section.

But it feels like you should try to re install the game....
Backup your mods, pp filters or whatever you customized and then uninstall the game from within steam, check the installation folder to wipe that, delete the documents/Assetto corsa folder too and start fresh.

It's definitely not normal with the oscillation...
 
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