Fanatec CSP V3 - Brake Performance Kit or Damper Kit?

[Kayumi]

Hey Guys,

last summer I bought the Fanatec CSP V3 and as I got used to the upgrade over my good old G25 Pedals Im not happy with the feel of the brake pedal anymore.

So I thought about getting a kit for the brake. Which kit would you recommend more?

Thank you for your help

 

[Steve D]

Oh didn't know that they were so close to the HE's. Actually i had a big problem with the pedals which took me and fanatec months to solve. the brake cylinder was stuck and not moving inside the black housing. after they sent me a new part everything was fixed except that the brake felt too sensitive, so i sent them back my LC to check it and they told me it is working as it should.. there is nothing else that could be faulty. i have calibrated them multiple times both in auto and manual. there is 0 difference.

to get an idea how much sensitive they are, i now use:
100% setting in auto mode in fanatec CP
2x13mm green BPK elastomers
Damper kit: 4
preload screw: max (3)
and maximum brake gamma in every sim (5 for iracing, 5 for AC, 0 brake sensitivity for pc2 and 0 brake sensitivity for RRE)
In this way, yes i can barely skip applying 100% input in sim.

Are you using the BrF setting on your wheel profile assuming you have that functionality as it only appears on the LCD display, (when you scroll through the options), if your pedals are plugged directly in to the ClubSport wheelbase and not directly in to the PC by USB.

If you do and it is set at 100% that doesn't mean the brake pedal is set to it's maximum resistance. In fact it's the complete opposite as 100% is the weakest setting where least effort is required. You need to dial it down, all the way to OFF if required, which is the setting where most effort is required to reach 100% brake force. It's kinda counter intuitive but that's the way it works, unless my set up is working in reverse!

If you do use it you can see and measure how the BrF adjustments made on the wheel affect brake force by having the Fanatec windows profiler open at the same time. And adjusting the pre-load screw gives you further scope if needs be. Great thing about using the BrF function is that you can set up individual profiles for different Sims or even cars and simply select the one you want on the wheel.

Apologies if you're already aware of this or you don't have the BrF functionality.

 

[Furnace Inferno]

Oh didn't know that they were so close to the HE's. Actually i had a big problem with the pedals which took me and fanatec months to solve. the brake cylinder was stuck and not moving inside the black housing. after they sent me a new part everything was fixed except that the brake felt too sensitive, so i sent them back my LC to check it and they told me it is working as it should.. there is nothing else that could be faulty. i have calibrated them multiple times both in auto and manual. there is 0 difference.

to get an idea how much sensitive they are, i now use:
100% setting in auto mode in fanatec CP
2x13mm green BPK elastomers
Damper kit: 4
preload screw: max (3)
and maximum brake gamma in every sim (5 for iracing, 5 for AC, 0 brake sensitivity for pc2 and 0 brake sensitivity for RRE)
In this way, yes i can barely skip applying 100% input in sim.

Definitely something wrong somewhere then. With manual adjustment it uses maximum force from what I remember and then you just adjust the mine and max. With auto it should show you a slider next to the brake which adjusts from 0-100% so the higher to the top (0%) the less force it needs and vice versa.

If it isn’t making much difference then it’s not working properly as you should be able to see a pretty big difference on the calibration page as you press it. Sometimes it was glitchy for me and reset to full force even though it showed a lower number so try moving it as pressing as hard as it needs to reach 100% each time. Should be a significant difference.

Are you using the BrF setting on your wheel profile assuming you have that functionality as it only appears on the LCD display, (when you scroll through the options), if your pedals are plugged directly in to the ClubSport wheelbase and not directly in to the PC by USB.

If you do and it is set at 100% that doesn't mean the brake pedal is set to it's maximum resistance. In fact it's the complete opposite as 100% is the weakest setting where least effort is required. You need to dial it down, all the way to OFF if required, which is the setting where most effort is required to reach 100% brake force. It's kinda counter intuitive but that's the way it works, unless my set up is working in reverse!

If you do use it you can see and measure how the BrF adjustments made on the wheel affect brake force by having the Fanatec windows profiler open at the same time. And adjusting the pre-load screw gives you further scope if needs be. Great thing about using the BrF function is that you can set up individual profiles for different Sims or even cars and simply select the one you want on the wheel.

Apologies if you're already aware of this or you don't have the BrF functionality.

It’s actually reversed if you use it via USB just to be super helpful.

 

[Gregkar13]

thanx for the replies, pedals are directly connected to my pc as i don't use Fanatec steering wheel. i see a big difference between 0% and 100% on auto settings it's just that 100% is not enough for me. it's like i need 150% or something like that

 

[Furnace Inferno]

thanx for the replies, pedals are directly connected to my pc as i don't use Fanatec steering wheel. i see a big difference between 0% and 100% on auto settings it's just that 100% is not enough for me. it's like i need 150% or something like that

How hard are you pushing? How would you compare the force to the clutch and throttle, lighter than a real car?

The only ones heavier are HE Ultimates for significantly more which on their lightest setting use 88kg up to 126kg.

I feel like there must be something wrong with yours if you aren’t needing a fair bit off force though, perhaps the circuit board or actual mechanism is registering more force. Either that or you’re just a beast .

 

[Gregkar13]

no, don't get me wrong, brake is stiff, 200% stiffer than clutch and throttle and for sure way stiffer than a real car... maybe it's just me. truth is i always had really strong legs (running long distances and playing football)

 

[flatout786]

I have V3 pedals and Forza Motorsport wheel and pedals are connected to V2.5 Base and not to PC. BRF setting use to show up on my wheel but I don't see it anymore, how can I get the BRF back in the display so that I can adjust that? Please help, its really frustrating. Thanks in advance.

 

[Mark Sheepwash]

After owning them for 2 years finally got and installed the brake kit last night. OMG it's like night and day the difference. Been testing the same car and stage in Dirt 2.0 to sort out the FFB and with the brake kit installed I smashed my best time by over a minute and won the stage - braking properly now!. Previously my best was about 12th. If you haven't done it yet then get the kit - best £35 I've spent on my set up (though feel having to pay for this is a bit of a cheek). As people have mentioned it can be fiddly and you can easily damage the rumble cable - but I followed this video - getting the pin back in was a pain in the A$$ and took quite a bit to get right but like he says in the video - it should just slide back in without hammering it so if it's not then it's not aligned. Cheers.

 

[GEO147]

I just got these V3s and love them. I have the BPK too but haven't installed yet as the brake feel is already great .I came from V1s.

With the kit installed is there still some travel? What would the difference in feel be from stock at say 4 or 5. To kit installed at 1 or 2?

 

[Mark Sheepwash]

I just got these V3s and love them. I have the BPK too but haven't installed yet as the brake feel is already great .I came from V1s.

With the kit installed is there still some travel? What would the difference in feel be from stock at say 4 or 5. To kit installed at 1 or 2?

Hi mate mine were one of the first batch and I've never been overly happy with the braking until now. As for travel/preload - the guy in the vid advised Preload doesn’t function after installing the kit. You just set it to the point where there is no free play. (if that's what you mean).

 

[GEO147]

So the different colour inserts are the wat to change firmness only then?

 

[Mark Sheepwash]

So the different colour inserts are the wat to change firmness only then?

Yeah. You will find a matrix in the instructions and the combinations you can have soft/medium/hard etc. Consensus online seems to be the medium - the PU foam first then the 013 Red then the 013 Green. The pedal is a lot stiffer now but a much smoother progression when applied than before.

 

[White Hawk]

Most people I came across when deciding to get the BPK and or damper said the damper doesn’t do a lot if you have the BPK installed so wasn’t worth the money so BPK all the way.

And yes as other people have said be careful with the rumble motor cable, when putting it back together the thing slipped and ripped the wires out of the motor on mine, I was quit peed off that Fanatec designed it like that and didn’t mention anything to be careful of that happening in the instructions. Fortunately I’d disconnected the motor from the board as it could have caused damage there too, and FANATEC sent me another, though to be honest I didn’t miss it as you can hardly feel them. I highly recommend disconnecting it and going further and maybe unscrewing the motor from the pedal as if it does slip and pull the wires it will have some slack.

It did make the brake better but it takes a little getting used to the lower travel and higher forces compared to stock. Right now though I’m still not totally happy with how it performs overall and hope Fanatec announce a Podium set that is a lot better or I may go HE. The V3’s ain’t bad but I think I’m just ready for the next step or two up.

 

[RCHeliguy]

I echo everything White Hawk just said. Every last bit.

I've been using the BPK for almost 18 months. I got it with my CS 3.0 pedals. I thought it made a big difference and they have worked well for me.

However, I have a set of Heusinkveld Sprints ordered because I would like more brake travel, and more of a two stage brake feel. I also want more flexibility to adjust my pedals than the CS 3.0 pedals allow. The CS 3.0 clutch feels way too light for me even with the stiffer spring in place. I can't feel the let off with my foot at all.

 

[AlexStudioTW]

After using the BPK and damper for a year, I went back to the stock foam (w/ damper) today. The reason is somewhat like RCHeliguy said above, I need more brake travel for learning trial braking skill. I use left foot braking, and the BPK makes it extremely difficult to hold 1/3 or less braking force because the travel is so short. When checking the recorded videos of my practices, my braking is always like an on/off switch no matter how hard I tried.

 

[kaijuh]

After using the BPK and damper for a year, I went back to the stock foam (w/ damper) today. The reason is somewhat like RCHeliguy said above, I need more brake travel for learning trial braking skill. I use left foot braking, and the BPK makes it extremely difficult to hold 1/3 or less braking force because the travel is so short. When checking the recorded videos of my practices, my braking is always like an on/off switch no matter how hard I tried.

how happy are you with the dampener on the brake? I am about the order the v3s and the much reduced brake travel didnt sound too appealing. I have tracked some cars before and they all had a fair bit of brake travel but less than you regular road car