Fanatec 2.5?

I just got a 2.5, V3 pedals, with Porsche wheel. Out of box it's way to strong. What setup would you suggest I try, and any tips on the setup?
 
Yeah, that is usually too high ffb gain, DRI setting to high or mix of both.
I don't recommend FFB-tool vs. proper gainsettings once and for all, but that's something you have to experiment with yourself :)

Not sure what you mean by the bolded?
I used the LUT generator and FFB clip on my last wheel (CRS-E) and it worked well, so I really need to delete/redo it all for the CSW.
 
Not sure what you mean by the bolded?
I used the LUT generator and FFB clip on my last wheel (CRS-E) and it worked well, so I really need to delete/redo it all for the CSW.

FFB Clip tool is an app that automatically sets your FFB to the highest point without clipping. I've tried it but found it set the FFB way too heavy for my liking, even when using the Light setting, and it seemed a bit inconsistent so I chose to just do it all manually. Generally the LUT is for lower-end wheels like the G27, it's not needed on a Clubsport wheel and IMO makes it feel very numb.

As for the on-wheel settings I think most people use the same base settings. FOR 100 (this you can adjust to taste to make the wheel lighter or heavier but it's generally best to do that with the in-game settings), FF at 100 always, SPR and DPR at 0 (you can add some damper to add a little weight to the wheel at very slow speeds/stop), LIN at default, SEN at Auto, ABS you can adjust to taste (it just makes the wheel vibrate a little when you're engaging ABS).
 
Yeah, ffb clip app, sorry.
Yes, redo everything and experiment with and without ffb clip and LUT.
I personally wouldn't recommend the lut generator. As I always state with this statement: the work and the thought of it is absolutely awesome and stunning. Big respect but in my opinion the manufacturers of the wheels build these curves for a reason to make the wheel feel linear in your hands!
It's the case for all logitech wheels. Not sure about fanatec but I'd say the German engineers didn't make a bad job too.

So use the lut generator to find out what your wheel might miss at low forces but then you need a customized lut that adapts to it. Similar to what I wrote for the logitech wheels (if you click on my downloads).

Ffb clip is similar critical. It's an awesome app but I wouldn't use it for anything else than checking if you get clipping and how spikey. The graphs of it is way better than the ffb bar in the pedals app!

Set the fanatec driver like Tberg suggests and do the WheelCheck. Then post the lut generator graph or the WheelCheck output.
If you don't get happy with the ac settings tag me and I'll see if I can write you a lut that gets rid of the shaking :)
 
I personally wouldn't recommend the lut generator. As I always state with this statement: the work and the thought of it is absolutely awesome and stunning. Big respect but in my opinion the manufacturers of the wheels build these curves for a reason to make the wheel feel linear in your hands!
It's the case for all logitech wheels. Not sure about fanatec but I'd say the German engineers didn't make a bad job too.

So use the lut generator to find out what your wheel might miss at low forces but then you need a customized lut that adapts to it. Similar to what I wrote for the logitech wheels (if you click on my downloads).

Ffb clip is similar critical. It's an awesome app but I wouldn't use it for anything else than checking if you get clipping and how spikey. The graphs of it is way better than the ffb bar in the pedals app!

Set the fanatec driver like Tberg suggests and do the WheelCheck. Then post the lut generator graph or the WheelCheck output.
If you don't get happy with the ac settings tag me and I'll see if I can write you a lut that gets rid of the shaking :)
Brilliant! Thanks all!
 
I personally wouldn't recommend the lut generator. As I always state with this statement: the work and the thought of it is absolutely awesome and stunning. Big respect but in my opinion the manufacturers of the wheels build these curves for a reason to make the wheel feel linear in your hands!
It's the case for all logitech wheels. Not sure about fanatec but I'd say the German engineers didn't make a bad job too.

So use the lut generator to find out what your wheel might miss at low forces but then you need a customized lut that adapts to it. Similar to what I wrote for the logitech wheels (if you click on my downloads).

Ffb clip is similar critical. It's an awesome app but I wouldn't use it for anything else than checking if you get clipping and how spikey. The graphs of it is way better than the ffb bar in the pedals app!

Set the fanatec driver like Tberg suggests and do the WheelCheck. Then post the lut generator graph or the WheelCheck output.
If you don't get happy with the ac settings tag me and I'll see if I can write you a lut that gets rid of the shaking :)

Yeah, I don't recommend LUT nor FFB-clip either for V2 and above. In case you missed it :p
I've tried everything and I honestly think AC is best right outta the box with my V2, pretty much default settings, only adjusting ingame gain. Occasionally, I adjust a cars individual ffb gain and never touch it again. Just happy to not deal with more 3rd party apps than needed.
 
Yeah, I don't recommend LUT nor FFB-clip either for V2 and above. In case you missed it :p
I've tried everything and I honestly think AC is best right outta the box with my V2, pretty much default settings, only adjusting ingame gain. Occasionally, I adjust a cars individual ffb gain and never touch it again. Just happy to not deal with more 3rd party apps than needed.
My post wasn't related to yours :p :D
I absolutely agree! I would actually widen the statement, saying every wheel should be used with the default driver settings and default AC settings!
The ONLY thing my Logitech LUTs do is shaping the minimum force to a nice curve instead of a hard notch as it is at default.
Otherwise: basically default. Only the canned effects adjusted a little but that's it. Can't imagine that Fanatec's defaults are that off. From my experience manufacturers tend to adjust the defaults in a most "neutral" way. Like you won't find any music player with an Equalizer not being flat :)
 
Yeah, I don't recommend LUT nor FFB-clip either for V2 and above. In case you missed it :p
I've tried everything and I honestly think AC is best right outta the box with my V2, pretty much default settings, only adjusting ingame gain. Occasionally, I adjust a cars individual ffb gain and never touch it again. Just happy to not deal with more 3rd party apps than needed.
Excellent, thanks. I'll disable the FFB Clip app.
Will the LUT I did for my previous wheel (CSR-E) need removing from anywhere?
 
Excellent, thanks. I'll disable the FFB Clip app.
Will the LUT I did for my previous wheel (CSR-E) need removing from anywhere?
C:\Users\Mascot\Documents\Assetto Corsa\cfg
open "ff_post_process.ini" and check for "ENABLED= 0/1".
It disabled the usage of the full ini so the rest in it won't matter.

Beware: If you use content manager it might reset the ini and continue to use your old LUT! In CM you have access to the same ini though.

When I chose a different LUT I select a different one, close content manager, re open again and check if it applied or not. If yes, start a race, quit, restart CM again and check if the settings are still changed or got reset!
 
C:\Users\Mascot\Documents\Assetto Corsa\cfg
open "ff_post_process.ini" and check for "ENABLED= 0/1".
It disabled the usage of the full ini so the rest in it won't matter.

Beware: If you use content manager it might reset the ini and continue to use your old LUT! In CM you have access to the same ini though.

When I chose a different LUT I select a different one, close content manager, re open again and check if it applied or not. If yes, start a race, quit, restart CM again and check if the settings are still changed or got reset!
Cheers!
Assumption is the mother of all furk-ups, so just to be absolutely sure, I need to set "ENABLED=0"?
 

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