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Name: Steven Poirier

Age: 28 yrs

Where: Saint-Raymond, Quebec, Canada

Jobs: Soldier in Canadian Army since 2003, two mission done

- Afghanistan, Kandahar march 2009 to september 2009 ( got 20 death canadian during i was there :( and many many injuries :( )

- Haiti, Port-au-Prince January 2010 to March 2010 when the earthquake happen

Personnal Life: I really like racing sport, specially Formula 1. I own my own Karting, a CRG 2009 on Road Rebel frame, Rotax has a engine. Im also a big fan of ice hockey.

This is my car ;)

2010%20Chevrolet%20Camaro%20%20%284%29.jpg


I have a girl Maeva, she have 1 yrs
 
Here goes!

Name: Peter Olof Decker a.k.a Peita (in English pronounced pay-ta)

Age: Have become 25 four times

Where: Stockholm, Sweden

Jobs: 50% IT technician, 50% studying M.Sc in Computer Science and Industrial Management, half way through :thumbsup:

Likes: good-for-you-mentality, modesty, openness, espresso, too expensive clothes, especially shirts, and ESPECIALLY leather shoes, oh and gadgets too, also tennis and orchids, cooking, racing, lazy days, to day-dream, contemplate, write rubbish, talk gibberish, so people stop listening, also tend to be too details-focused but I like to look at details, so, yeah it applies here too

Dislikes: jante-lagen (Swedish for Law of Jante http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Law_of_Jante ), what drives world economy, stress, people who don't listen ( ehum ), non-clear politicians (all of them?)

Personal Life:

From 7-11 years of age I raced carts. If I had known about how, Id have made love to those carts - a birel and a PCR. I crashed pretty heavy though, so mum prohibited me to race. Just practice without races... yeah... I quit. SO now I aim for a racing career without mum's knowledge. Anyone got connections? huh? I am just trying!

I have no car, no boxer (the one and only dog breed), not much money. But I do have the girl of my life, Saba. She's started talking painfully much about small yelling things and to get a ring, but I play hard to catch. Gotta have time for my racing career.


Pics will come!
 
Name: Steven Poirier

Age: 28 yrs

Where: Saint-Raymond, Quebec, Canada

Jobs: Soldier in Canadian Army since 2003, two mission done

- Afghanistan, Kandahar march 2009 to september 2009 ( got 20 death canadian during i was there :( and many many injuries :( )

- Haiti, Port-au-Prince January 2010 to March 2010 when the earthquake happen

Personnal Life: I really like racing sport, specially Formula 1. I own my own Karting, a CRG 2009 on Road Rebel frame, Rotax has a engine. Im also a big fan of ice hockey.

This is my car ;)

2010%20Chevrolet%20Camaro%20%20%284%29.jpg


I have a girl Maeva, she have 1 yrs
Enfin un autre Quebecois!! ;) Welcome Steven! Under what name do you race in race07? I don't think i have ever met you in game, or are you ACUBE?? Anyway, welcome in prestogp :)
 
OK guys, thank you. I'm working... pretty hard to drive those cars :D, and until I get used to it I have to do a lot of correction and my steering wheel keeps loosing its center. Anyone with a Logitech MOMO that does that??

By the way, I'm 21 years old, from Romania, currently studying architecture. (to keep this post within the threads' subject). Hope to be able to practice enough to give it a try with you guys.
 
There's bunch of us with the old momo. I never had any centering issues and very rarely lose FFB either. What OS do you use? Win8/7/XP, 32bit or 64bit?

One thing to try is to install Logitechs gaming software, it will update drivers. I have it running all the time in the background. http://www.logitech.com/en-us/support/320?crid=411&osid=14&bit=64

Also how old is your wheel? If it's used heavily, you may have a problem inside: the motor jumps out of gear teeths and since the optical sensor is attached to the motor axle, it will cause alignment issues. Mine is really really used, the wheel is pretty loose but no alignment issues because of gap removal mod that i got.
 
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Hey Vlad :)

I had the same problem with my old G25 once. Though, it's a bit of a job to fix... Hope you don't mind getting your hands dirty, and aren't worried about the warranty. :p

I ended up disassembling the wheel base in search of a small electronic piece. A circuit board with an infra-red LED, an infra-red sensor, and a little plastic wheel between the two. This piece is called an optical encoder disc (gonna call it an OED from now on). The OED rotates with your wheel, and the way it breaks the IR light is how it detects movements in the wheel.

Thing is, it only detects movements, so it's constantly estimating what the position is based on all prior movements. The OED can get dirty over time, which messes with the IR sensor's signals, and causes it to improperly detect movements. This is what causes the center to drift, and make the wheel require recalibration. It can get especially sensitive to rapid movements, such as your corrections.

It's pretty easy to clean, you can just blow air through it to clean it. That did the trick for me. Just got to make sure everything goes back where you found it, and don't screw the IR LED/Sensor piece in too tight either, nor do you want the OED touching it. It should just sort of hover between the two.

I did the exact same thing on a Driving Force GT later, which uses the exact same optical encoding device, so the procedure's the same. If the Momo uses it too, then it should be the same there too. Be warned, I'm not sure, never looked inside a Momo myself! :p

As for minimizing the corrections, it may be something that can be resolved through setup. I find the F3000 works pretty well with very soft springs, and has a lot of headroom for softening up the car. I'd say this is definitely worth doing.

Just to see if it helps, here's the setup I raced on at Bahrain :) (Haven't done a single lap of Shanghai yet). I put an emphasis on smoothness and consistency, and typically made very few corrections during each lap.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/6511231/racing/F3000/Bahrain/AD_F3000.svm

Anyway, welcome! Good to have you on board :D
 
Disassembling Momo wheel is not hard, just don't use force. It will come apart logically. Unscrew everything from the bottom, every screw you find. There are some under the block that is used to attach it to table so remove everything. Then flip it and open the thing. When you assemble it back, make sure you don't overtighten the screws, two finger rule is fine (use two fingers on screwdriver when doing the final turns, if you use the strength of your whole hand you can easily destroy threads ) I wouldn't open the pedal assembly without good pictures how it's put together, one can very very easily break it (it's assembled "ass-backwards", really odd design)

Use google to find pics how the thing is put together. It really is not that hard, just take it slow, don't use force and you should be fine.

Gap removal mod is pretty easy to do but requires taking the wheel completely apart. It's really simple; a layer of clear silicone between the cogs. If you want to do this job, PM me for instructions. It removes all gaps, i got zero gap at the center after 3 years and thousands of hours. It essentially upgrades the wheel to G25..
 
Wow! Thank you guys. The steering wheel will be 6 years old this fall, and I used it a lot in the first 3 years or so. Never disassembled it. I will try and take care of this, but only in a couple of weeks, I'm visiting my parrents, so no wheel.

@Kennett Ylitalo - I have Logitech Gaming Software, and I am not aware of any update... and I use Vista 32bit - it's funny you didn't even mention it. I know it's in the top worst OS from Microsoft ever, but still - could be worse :laugh:. Probably you'll find a PM from me in 2 weeks time, about that gap removal.

@April Dillon - You are right, the wheel loses its center after fast moves. I don't need to exit the game and restart to recenter it, I "only" have to turn completely in the oposite direction of the one the "center" has went, but it still is annoying. I will take a look at the OED thing when I'll open it. Thanks for the setup, I'll try it. It's nice this total transparency thing about setups.

I will practice more, and hopefully I'll join some of your servers and let you decide if I can race with you. If all goes well, Silverstone would be my first race. The race I am not sure if I can attend is the one in 11 June, since is "finals season" and I don't know yet how my exams are scheduled.
 
Welcome Vlad ;)

we are not so strict and who speak now is one of middle/back row if I can you can:D and my goal is low mistake, finish the race, consistence on laps, no damage anyone and last but not least fun.
not so difficult to do:) the secret is simply: laps laps laps laps laps:roflmao:
 
Hello again guys! While waiting for my licence I found out that I had a problem: I made another account that I had forgot about...My bad. So this is the good and only account from now on, and I am very eager to race! :D Do I have to enter some test servers before I can join you in the race server for Silverstone?
 
So I was testing friday and saturnday on the servers, and I discovered that something is very wrong with my peddals(for example, if I press the pedal 30%, the game reads it like I'm pressing it 20%-30%-70% and back again in a second, so that makes acceleration with no TC kind of demanding...). But I would like to give it a try tonight, if possible. Can I join the race server?
 
So I was testing friday and saturnday on the servers, and I discovered that something is very wrong with my peddals(for example, if I press the pedal 30%, the game reads it like I'm pressing it 20%-30%-70% and back again in a second, so that makes acceleration with no TC kind of demanding...).

Your pedals are "spiking". Very common issue. What wheel are you using? My Momo pedals went to a point where i needed to fabricate new bearings from metal to stop them moving sideways. It caused the pots to move without any up/down pedal movement, the sideways movement can be in range of 1mm or less so it's not easy to notice. It's common on all pedals that use pots directly attached to the pedal axle. Fortunately the movement usually is so small that it doesn't damage the pots. Unfortunately it's either DIY fix with some McGyverism or new pedals. If you are VERY lucky, the pots simply need cleaning (they are pretty well cased and there is very little dirt flying around the pedal unit, not very likely the cause)

It is very difficult to drive with that issue, not impossible but one just have to be extra careful listening the engine sound. It also requires changes to drivingstyle, you can't accelerate out of corners while dancing on the throttle, the feel changes from lap to lap, corner to corner. Basically you need to drive like they are on/off (that so often mentioned straightline driving, ie always accelerate when your car is balanced and with zero steering angle.) Makes driving in the wet very interesting experience. If it's only throttle, then you can coast in to corners and try to carry out the speed longer. With brakes spiking it's a lot easier, one can go very long before noticing anything odd.
 
regards you joining tonight vlad i dont see your name anywhere on the presto times site, its part of the rules and requirements that you show your pace online so decisions can be made, obviously nico is busy at the moment and hasnt replied but i think its safe to say that if you were to show us you ready for it then there would be no problems with you joining, tonight may be wet too are you prepared for that?

what could happen is you join the server for practise session, do some laps and let everyone decide if your safe enough to join, it may end up a let down if people say no but its maybe one way we could do it.

sorry someone hasnt replied to you sooner on this, hopfully nico will give his thoughts soon.
 

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