Cars DRM Revival [Deleted]

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Hi! This "20% discount" is applied to the 15€ price (meaning I'll pay 12€) or the 15€ is already accounting the discount?

I used to love the rFactor mod, really considering this buy...
 
Hi! This "20% discount" is applied to the 15€ price (meaning I'll pay 12€) or the 15€ is already accounting the discount?

I used to love the rFactor mod, really considering this buy...

It is stated in the first post:
With the kind permission of RaceDepartment, we can now post the link to our store for this resource, and as a thank you, we are offering 20% discount to all RaceDepartment premium members on the price of our car. You don't pay EUR 15,00 but only EUR 12,00 when you have an active premium membership.

20% Discount Promo Code
Grab the promo code for premium members here. Not a premium member yet? You can upgrade your account here.

I don't know if this deal is still active but if it is you will pay for a year's premium membership and you get the DRM Revival mod for 12 EUR instead of paying 15 EUR.

I have the DRM Revival mod since release, I paid the full price and I wouldn't want to pay less. It is worth every cent of it.
 
After long uses of the this MOD, i can say that it s one of the best you can found for AC.
Graphics, sound, physics are really wonderful.
I have just a 2 remarks regarding physics :
- The overall performance is very tight. All the cars have performance alowing to fight each other (even if the 308 is often the fast). But it s not consistent with the Kunos car (935 Moby Dick) wich is really faster. Just a shame
- I'm really very septic with the acceleration. It s quite impossible to accelerate at max level keeping the car straight. I already drive racing cars and i look at a lot of race but it quite never happends to have problem when accelerate (just on wet tarck or when you drive on "shaker") but not in the track. So it s fun to drive but not realistic. And other great MOD (RSS GT1 for example)
 
After long uses of the this MOD, i can say that it s one of the best you can found for AC.
Graphics, sound, physics are really wonderful.
I have just a 2 remarks regarding physics :
- The overall performance is very tight. All the cars have performance alowing to fight each other (even if the 308 is often the fast). But it s not consistent with the Kunos car (935 Moby Dick) wich is really faster. Just a shame
- I'm really very septic with the acceleration. It s quite impossible to accelerate at max level keeping the car straight. I already drive racing cars and i look at a lot of race but it quite never happends to have problem when accelerate (just on wet tarck or when you drive on "shaker") but not in the track. So it s fun to drive but not realistic. And other great MOD (RSS GT1 for example)

The 935/78 "Moby Dick" was a car specifically designed to compete in one race - Le Mans (Porsche took it to two races prior to the 78 Le Mans race to shake down the car).
It was indeed a faster car (higher power output, lower weight, much improved aero dynamics due to cutting the floor and therefore lowering the car substantially among other very drastic changes from the 77 factory 935s and later privateer 935 variants).

I do not understand your issues with the acceleration you describe - I do not have such issues at all - maybe its a misunderstanding in translation ?

I usually race the Porsche 935 K3 in all track conditions and absolutely love the car. I don't feel anything unexpected regarding traction and the car is actually very tame and has lots and lots of grip once you understand how a Porsche 911 based race car behaves under load.
 
Thank you for your answer.

OK for the moby dick. I don't know it was a specific car for Le mans. The performance gap could so be explain.

For the acceleration issue, it perhaps came for my driving, but i don't feel the 935K3 is tame at all.
It s quite easy in corner or in braking sequences but i'm not confortable with acceleration. Perhaps it came also from the setting (i usually decrease the height of the car and harden the spring. I will try with standard setting
 
Back in early August, I ask the question here as to when we should expect to see fixes for the mod.
There still is no response...so I'll ask it again.
If you take the 935 DP out to Circuit de Catalunya and give it some 'stick'...then go back and watch the replay, you'll notice a flame 'attached' to the exhaust stack as the car is at full tilt on the main straight.
I've stated numerous time, that would never happen...not there anyway.
The velocity of the gases exiting the combustion chamber at that point in time would simply be too great to sustain such a flame-front.
You would have it at the start of the braking zone and near the end of the straight, since the ECU goes into fuel cut and the rich mixture is dumped and re-lit by the hot gases at the wastegate.
The cold braking capability on that car is also way, way too low.
While cold brakes do not have the outright efficiency, they do have proper clamping capability at 40, 50, even 60 MPH.
Sure, they do come up in two or three laps in the game and respond as they should with loss of efficiency through long straights, where brake cooling becomes a factor.
I'm still yet to drive all the cars in the pack because the 935 is the car that reflects my past as a young VW/Audi/Porsche mechanic.
I just want it represented as accurately as it should be.
 
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I solved my problem and i'm really a creep !

I have a look on the tires temperatures and, even after manies laps, there are still under 60°c !
I have noticed that the track surface was on "dusty" and the temperature about 10°c.

Solving thoses 2 issues help me go faster and provide a more tame car !
 
Back in early August, I ask the question as to when we should expect to see fixes for the mod.
There still is no response...so I'll ask it again.
If you take the 935 DP out to Circuit de Catalunya and give it some 'stick'...then go back and watch the replay, you'll notice a flame 'attached' to the exhaust stack as the car is at full tilt on the main straight.
I've stated numerous time, that would never happen...not there anyway.
The velocity of the gases exiting the combustion chamber at that point in time would simply be too great to sustain such a flame-front.
You would have it at the start of the braking zone and near the end of the straight, since the ECU goes into fuel cut and the rich mixture is dumped and re-lit by the hot gases at the wastegate.
The cold braking capability on that car is also way, way too low.
While cold brakes do not have the outright efficiency, they do have proper clamping capability at 40, 50, even 60 MPH.
Sure, they do come up in two or three laps in the game and respond as they should with loss of efficiency through long straights, where brake cooling becomes a factor.
I'm still yet to drive all the cars in the pack because the 935 is the car that reflects my past as a young VW/Audi/Porsche mechanic.
I just want it represented as accurately as it should be.
It might be best to bring such detailed technical input to the mod makers themselves (try to PM them here or open a ticket through the shop page has worked best for others in the past - they do not necessarily monitor each thread post here on the forum).

I solved my problem and i'm really a creep !

I have a look on the tires temperatures and, even after manies laps, there are still under 60°c !
I have noticed that the track surface was on "dusty" and the temperature about 10°c.

Solving thoses 2 issues help me go faster and provide a more tame car !
It is most realistic to run track conditions at “green” or “fast” - I use usually air temperatures in reasonable values as to the event - 10deg C sounds pretty cold.
 
It might be best to bring such detailed technical input to the mod makers themselves (try to PM them here or open a ticket through the shop page has worked best for others in the past - they do not necessarily monitor each thread post here on the forum).
That was indeed where I started first...by sending them an e-mail.
I did that almost immediately on release of the mod...certainly within the first week or so.
I don't need a timeline for a fix.
I realize it takes time to fix issues, but a simple acknowledgement would have been okay.
 
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We have answered allready to your question on 12th July.


The down-shift and braking zone flame animation is fine....it's the full throttle event that's in question.

You would not ever have a flame at the exhaust pipe during full throttle on the straight at Barcelona or going up the Kemmel Straight at Spa.

The dynamic pressure in the combustion chamber would be too high to allow that to happen.

Even with the wastegate modulating to keep induction pressures within range, there is no fuel to sustain light-off...so no flame should be present then.

Thank you.

From: drm_modding_team@freenet.de <drm_modding_team@freenet.de>
Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2018 3:35 AM
To: hotmail.com
Subject: RE: Puriano Exhaust on straights

Hi and Hello,

thanks for your response and the feedback.

The animation of the flames sometimes start by the the up-shift, thats not ok, we know it but is not easy to fix it.

Do you mean the animation is too long at the down-shifting and the brake zone?
We will do the best for the next update.

DRM MODDING TEAM
 
We have answered allready to your question on 12th July.


The down-shift and braking zone flame animation is fine....it's the full throttle event that's in question.

You would not ever have a flame at the exhaust pipe during full throttle on the straight at Barcelona or going up the Kemmel Straight at Spa.

The dynamic pressure in the combustion chamber would be too high to allow that to happen.

Even with the wastegate modulating to keep induction pressures within range, there is no fuel to sustain light-off...so no flame should be present then.

Thank you.

From: drm_modding_team@freenet.de <drm_modding_team@freenet.de>
Sent: Tuesday, June 12, 2018 3:35 AM
To: hotmail.com
Subject: RE: Puriano Exhaust on straights

Hi and Hello,

thanks for your response and the feedback.

The animation of the flames sometimes start by the the up-shift, thats not ok, we know it but is not easy to fix it.

Do you mean the animation is too long at the down-shifting and the brake zone?
We will do the best for the next update.

DRM MODDING TEAM
Thank you for this response.
 
It had a live rear axle, setting camber & toe would be rather interesting... some sort of elastic bolts and a wedge? :D

Mark Donohue and Roger Penskie did exactly that to a Camaro for a Daytona 24 Hour to get some toe adjustment.

They put it in a press and bent it! Donohue called it "gronking" the rear axle. As I recall it worked ... but made a HELL of a lot of noise back there.:confused:

Read The Unfair Advantage.
 
It had a live rear axle, setting camber & toe would be rather interesting... some sort of elastic bolts and a wedge? :D
Both camber and toe are adjustable with solid axles in real life. If your axle does not have any settings then you can bend it. The bearings can take little bit of angle. Some cars also run adjustable rear axles. Like race cars. And even if you have bone stock solid axle chances are it came from the factory with little bit of toe and camber. Lack of camber in solid axles in ac is an annoying limitation just like the non-adjustable panhard bar height for example.
 
Both camber and toe are adjustable with solid axles in real life. If your axle does not have any settings then you can bend it. The bearings can take little bit of angle. Some cars also run adjustable rear axles. Like race cars. And even if you have bone stock solid axle chances are it came from the factory with little bit of toe and camber. Lack of camber in solid axles in ac is an annoying limitation just like the non-adjustable panhard bar height for example.

Bending it is the obvious way, but not really adjustable much; how is it generally done these days to put any decent amount of camber on? if you're going to put a full joint in at the hub then why not just use independent suspension, I wonder. Some sort of ball joint I guess?

The Zakspeed car seems to have a tie-rod for adjusting toe a bit. Multiple places suggest fixed positive camber, which doesn't sound terribly appealing...
 
Bending it is the obvious way, but not really adjustable much;
Technically it is adjustable as you can switch rear axles depending what you want just like you can adjust gear ratios by changing parts in the car.

how is it generally done these days to put any decent amount of camber on? if you're going to put a full joint in at the hub then why not just use independent suspension, I wonder. Some sort of ball joint I guess?
Google floater axle. Here's one:
https://www.pro-touring.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=111690&d=1429307464
here's another
http://1speedway.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=97
Converting from solid axles to independent suspension is not exactly a simple solution and many race series do require solid axles.
 
Technically it is adjustable as you can switch rear axles depending what you want just like you can adjust gear ratios by changing parts in the car.

Well you can adjust the tension in a tie-rod or some other way of keeping tension on to bend it in place too, which is what I meant - that'd probably be enough for toe, at least. I think Porsche did a lot of odd things at Le Mans with the 935 to get it set up, but I haven't heared of axle swaps being common in Europe, maybe they did it in IMSA?

Converting from solid axles to independent suspension is not exactly a simple solution and many race series do require solid axles.

Any production based, out of interest? I can see reasons for series with spec chassis & gear not wanting to change just out of logistics, if nothing else.

Thanks for the links, live axles are pretty rare over here now.
 
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