DIY hydraulics floor mount pedal blocks.

[Sieben]

Hi.

DIY hydraulics floor mount pedal blocks.

 

[Sieben]

 

[Sieben]

Ready.

 

[Sieben]

Made on the real pedals block.

 

[Sieben]

Some enhancements )

 

[FrejkiChodak]

I made a set to lift my pedals up and skewed with the same kinda metal plates. Mine started rattling quickly; Don't you need those flat, circular thingies where you screw the nuts in the bolts?

 

[Sieben]

Washers? U'd better put'em of course. Not so critical, but still. Also put some oil, grease, to the moving joints.

And the first version is dissasembled if smth)

 

[Gooners72]

Good job on the pedals!

After seeing all these posts on DIY pedals, I decided to make my own too. Still waiting for the 12bit controller but got the mechanism for the throttle working (for a hall sensor). Brake will be hydraulic with a PSI sensor.

 

[callumjtc]

Good job on the pedals!

After seeing all these posts on DIY pedals, I decided to make my own too. Still waiting for the 12bit controller but got the mechanism for the throttle working (for a hall sensor). Brake will be hydraulic with a PSI sensor.

Don't forget mine!

 

[Sieben]

[QUOTE="Gooners72[/QUOTE]
Thanks.
That's great! Hope you will share the build too!)

 

[Sieben]

Real throttle arrangement from VAZ, with contactless throttle position sensor, as a gas axis input.

 

[Sieben]

Update.

 

[jamescarruthers]

How do you recreate the travel with a master cylinder?

On a car there is some give from the pads being pushed back by the brake disc - but I presume a locked off master cylinder the pedal just goes hard, like if you pump a brake pedal without the car moving.

 

[Sieben]

I advise you to press a brand new car pedal. No matter with pumped braked after the engine being shut, or on a running engine. If talking about the vacuum booster brakes. How much travel it has. (None)
And on a not brand new car, that can be later on all the same that was a brand new before that. Shut the engine, pump brake tree four times, and let it go down the hill. And see how much travel the brake will have. (it will have all the same travel like with booster but should be pressed much much harder, for a non new car state.)
Travel will be all the same depending not on the push back from the disk, but according to the state of the brake system. My good advise.

And then explain please, if there exist such a thing, how it can be so, if the f1 pedal travel replicated with less travel, but a GT one, with more? If f1 disk is way more harder to stop. )))) Does a pedal should be falled in or kicked back if the disk is locked, according to all of this pseudo brake pedal travel from a disk thingies)))

There is no such a thing like pedal travel from a disk rotation)

 

[jamescarruthers]

Background; I've maintained my cars over the years, including rebuilding master cylinders and designing brake upgrades for them. Adjusting wheel bearings etc

Everything mechanical has some clearance. Discs have run-out. Hubs have wheel bearings that get adjusted. Not to mention seals that will pull the pistons back.

Assuming that a caliper is about 54mm (referencing my old classic) and a disc run out of 0.05 (which is probably a maximum)

pi * 54 ^ 2 . 0.05 = 458 mm3
9.16 * 4 = 1832 mm3

1832mm3 of displaced fluid that gets pushed back.

There is clearly movement in a brake system even when "perfect"

 

[Sieben]

Perfect, when new, does not have movement. I clearly did not reckone any of it. It brakes like a mad with just a touch of a pedal. And for a long time.
I don't think people should get bothered much about this movements. Up to there preferences.