CSP ownership woes

[Terry Rock]

Since the end of the first year of ownership, my CSP pedals have caused me a great deal of disappointment.
The throttle sensor has been changed no less than three times...the main PC board once.
I still have a downward drifting throttle issue just about every time I start a racing sim.
Often times a test of the pedal will show 100% then drift down to about 70% during a race.
The only reason I know about it is when cars start passing me like I'm nailed to the track's surface.
I can then hit the escape key and verify it in the Fanatec properties display.
The other frustration can be on entering a game, only to have no throttle input.
I then have to exit, unplug and re-plug the pedal's to get values to return.
This issue has happened with multiple computers.
All set screws are tight at the base of the pedals.
All wiring looks intact (no breaks or chafing visible).
The screws on the throttle sensor are all secured and tight.
I've tried everything...at great expense.
I'm using USB 2.0 ports on back of the computer directly.
Tried different ports...tried add-in USB cards. Nothing solves it.
The start of ownership was controversial with me receiving pedals which had been shipped to someone else and returned to Fanatec...then sent to me as new with the other person's receipt still in the box.
My ownership has been a lesson in frustration, in that when they do work, I like the way they feel.
My issue is that they haven't worked properly for most of my time of ownership.
The outright unreliability of my pedal set, has kept me from purchasing other Fanatec products.

 

[anton_Chez]

Unfortunately, experiences with Fanatec gear has been pretty hit or miss for many users. I have had a lot of their stuff at one time and I have not really had a problem apart from a few niggling issues more akin to maintenance than faults.

Sounds like your pedals have not been right since the beginning. I had a pair of them for over a year and found them pretty reliable.

 

[Richard Dastardly]

Mine were fine for a month, and then developed what appears to be a dodgy wiring connection in the throttle cable somewhere - if I tug it the right way & clamp it in place all is well, otherwise I get to simulate a fuel pickup issue. About to start another discussion with Fanatec about it...

This is also stopping me considering other Fanatec stuff - which is awkward because I need a new wheel ( and shifter ) and I have nowhere to put a sim rig, so whatever I get has to be attached to a ( quite solid ) desk. I suspect that's going to rule out a DD wheel.

 

[anton_Chez]

It doesn't have to rule it out altogether. You have the option of running it at a lower power output which will basically give you the benefit of speed of rotation but not with all the force. In future if you decide to build a dedicated cockpit, you are then able to use it a little more to it's potential. I've seen others with DD drive wheels on desks. You just need to organise a mount for it which is not too hard.

I had a similar issue with the throttle. I just needed to tighten the bolt that clamps the sensor to the pedal. Once I realised what it was, I knew to check every now and then. I run tactile and I am sure that it rattled it loose prematurely.

 

[Terry Rock]

After a rather unreliable ownership of Fanatec Clubsport pedals, I've decided it's time to go elsewhere.
Looking for suggestions in the $250-350 range
While I liked the overall look and feel of the Clubsport pedals, they've been extremely unreliable in my case.
Three different computers...same issue.
To be quite honest, I'd have preferred an outright failure.
At least then, I could have fixed whatever the issue was.

 

[anton_Chez]

If you've owned CSP's then the only real way to go is to something like a HE Pro or similar. There are another set of higher end pedals that are a very decent price, but I can't remember exactly what they're called. I think Gamer Muscle reviewed them. Both of those would be a definite upgrade but cost more than the Fanatec's. Anything else and you're pretty much downgrading. I don't know of much else load cell wise that's decent. Not sure on Thrustmaster offerings, I don't even know if any of their pedals have load cells.

From you're experience I'd bite the bullet and go with something above the Fanatec range. If you intend to stick with sim racing, you will not regret it. Also, pedals are highly resellable so you shouldn't have much problems getting rid of a decent set of them.

 

[Terry Rock]

If you've owned CSP's then the only real way to go is to something like a HE Pro or similar. There are another set of higher end pedals that are a very decent price, but I can't remember exactly what they're called. I think Gamer Muscle reviewed them. Both of those would be a definite upgrade but cost more than the Fanatec's. Anything else and you're pretty much downgrading. I don't know of much else load cell wise that's decent. Not sure on Thrustmaster offerings, I don't even know if any of their pedals have load cells.

From you're experience I'd bite the bullet and go with something above the Fanatec range. If you intend to stick with sim racing, you will not regret it. Also, pedals are highly resellable so you shouldn't have much problems getting rid of a decent set of them.

Thanks for the input.
I wouldn't sell them to anyone else knowing they have an issue.
I may build a custom wiring harness and experiment with different brands of sensors down the road a bit later.
This pedal set is the single most influential reason why I did not invest in other Fanatec gear.
After the bad experience, I just could not muster the enthusiasm to fork over more money for the Clubsport 2.5 wheel.
It's sad really, because I heard the build quality was much better than the original...and partly because I wanted to complete the package.

 

[Tim O'Glock]

Have you ever tried cleaning the magnet opposite the hall sensor? The issue you described is actually pretty common and usually caused by a change in the magnetic field due to tiny metallic chips moving relative to the magnet. Thoroughly cleaning the magnet should solve the problem for a few weeks.

 

[Terry Rock]

Have you ever tried cleaning the magnet opposite the hall sensor? The issue you described is actually pretty common and usually caused by a change in the magnetic field due to tiny metallic chips moving relative to the magnet. Thoroughly cleaning the magnet should solve the problem for a few weeks.

I've cleaned the entire pedal set...including magnet. I've also lubricated the bushings at the pedal pivot points.
I've also checked all the set-screws at the pedal base and the tightness of the throttle sensor screws.
I actually went as far as to loctite the retention screws after the last sensor change, simply because I feared losing any of the plastic spacers which are there to protect over-tightening and deforming the sensor.
I suspect it may be a break internal to the wiring at manufacture.
I ran a few rfactor2 laps last week.
On exiting one track, I then selected another (so not completely out of the game).
On the second track load and all I had was brake and clutch...no throttle...not even a hint.
I then unplugged the USB cable and simply plugged it back in, where upon I had 100% throttle again.
That's been the story of my life with this set of pedals.
Sometimes I'll check and start out with 100% throttle, after about two or three laps of no particular circuit cars will start going by me like I've got an anchor attached.
I'll exit and go check the Fanatec interface and it'll usually show 70% max throttle.
Again, I'll unplug them and plug them right back in, wherein the 100% will be restored.
That's happened on three different computers...so it surely can't be a computer issue.

 

[Takumi69]

Although it might sound crazy, i would try out a new load cell (a cheap generic one from Ebay for 1$).
I had a set of CSP V1 for over 6 years, never serviced them, never had a problem.
Suddenly the clutch sensor (i mostly drive paddle cars, so actually not that much clutch use) started to fluctate, going down to 60% and then dropping out completly.
Changed loadcell and all was fine again. A friend of mine had the same problem on the throttle and everything was fine with a.new loadcell.

 

[Terry Rock]

Although it might sound crazy, i would try out a new load cell (a cheap generic one from Ebay for 1$).
I had a set of CSP V1 for over 6 years, never serviced them, never had a problem.
Suddenly the clutch sensor (i mostly drive paddle cars, so actually not that much clutch use) started to fluctate, going down to 60% and then dropping out completly.
Changed load-cell and all was fine again. A friend of mine had the same problem on the throttle and everything was fine with a.new load-cell.

Wait! you had a clutch issue that was rectified by changing a brake load cell?
Does the wiring to the clutch load-cell interact in anyway with the throttle?

 

[Barracuda 318]

curious, I have the same issue with my CSR load cell pedal set,
the throttle input does not work correct until I unplug and plug back in the USB cable, I only need to do this after starting the PC, after that it works fine, not a huge issue, just a minor annoyance I guess

 

[Terry Rock]

The strange behavior continues.
For the past week I've had the Clubsports plugged in with no issues.
The only difference is that the pedals are now priority in the game controller listing (i.e first in listing).
I'm wondering if this could possibly be an issue with the Fanatec software?

 

[Barracuda 318]

interestingly mine are also working fine today,
I think you may be correct, at least I hope you are

 

[Denis Betty]

I bought Clubsport V2s second hand and was getting similar issues. In the end I unplugged each of the sensors from the little motherboard (forget what it's called) and spayed the plugs with Servisol Super 10 switch cleaning lubricant. I connected/disconnected each plug several times, to try to clean the contact points. This has cleared up the problem with my gas/clutch pedals not registering max/min values correctly (this was sporadic). However, if I run Fanatec software, I get a variable reading at partial settings, esp clutch. What I mean is, the bar for clutch reading (and to a lesser extent gas) oscillates, no matter how hard I try to keep the pedal steady.
I have to say, cleaning the hall effect type sensors sometimes helps too. IMHO, these sensors are a bit of a joke. I mean, they just seem to be a really Heath Robinson solution to me. They're open to atmosphere, external.. so they're just asking to get contaminated. Then there's the tiny plastic/nylon spacers, which have to be babied and tensioned..... well kinda "just so".
I'm gonna bite the bullet at some point and buy HE pedals. From what I've heard, you never look back with a set of those.

 

[anton_Chez]

I went from V3's to HE Pro's. Couldn't believe the difference. I found the V3's quite good. I am super happy with the Pro's.

 

[Warren Dawes]

I've also had very similar experience with my CSP V2 pedals. It's been a love / hate relationship for about 3 years with the constant problem of the Throttle (and Clutch) constantly not going to 100%. Yes, unplugging the USB and re-connecting often fixed it, or using a different USB slot, but even that didn't guarantee it would fully travel for the length of a race. A couple of other tricks sometimes brought a "temporary" fix (cleaning or pushing the little connector plug to the PCB) but it was such a frustrating experience.
So, recently, I finally gave up and pulled out my trusty old G27 pedals, added the GTEye spring mod to the brake pedal, and once again I have a trouble free set of pedals.
I was almost going to "upgrade" to a new set of CSP v3 pedals but in the end wasn't prepared to trust Fanatec again.
I keep looking at other "upgrade" options but not prepared to invest large $'s and risk reliability again.
Are the Thrustmaster pedals any better than G27's (modded)?

 

[Denis Betty]

I went from G27 (with Nixim brake mod), to T3PA pro (TM), to V2s. The V2s are a big step up (IMO), apart from the (game breaker) reliability issues. I use my kit quite a lot, so HE pedals it is. I'm gonna wait till Black Friday sale, but if they're not in a sale, I'm gonna bite the bullet.
Trouble is, I'd feel pretty about selling the V2s on, knowing that they have this issue.

 

[anton_Chez]

HE's come well recommended by many in the sim racing community. I've come from Fanatec gear too and had little niggles here and there but nothing really major. Had mine for around a bit over a year before I moved onto HE Pro's and their other stuff. They are a fantastic set of pedals and even coming from something nice like the V3's I noticed an immediate difference. The brake especially feels fantastic. Even though both are load cell, the HE's just feel different. The springs and rubbers must make a difference, as well as the overall build quality and adjust-ability. Loved my V3's, but the HE's are a special product. The Pro's are very well priced for what you get.

 

[Takumi69]

Wait! you had a clutch issue that was rectified by changing a brake load cell?
Does the wiring to the clutch load-cell interact in anyway with the throttle?

Yes, basically when the clutch problem showed up, i started to drive paddle cars (so i had not to use the clutch), a few hours later the loadcell died. After the loadcell change the clutch behaviour was back to normal.