Cant get braking right?

[Chris Wuyts]

Hey still new and got a bit of a problem (atleast i think so).

I think i got it on all cars but as im mostly driving a mini i will use these as a example.

When braking it seams my car wont slow down as much as other cars (cpu or player) i mean i slam the brake before the guy in front of me and i still need to be rly rly carefull not to bump him.

Im not sure if it is my handeling the pedal is wrong or that some setting is wrong somewhere but i have tried nearly everything, from brake pressure to brake balance to auto gear to slow downshifts to fast downshifts.

Best example i can think of is:

Long straight driving 2-3 car lenght behind someone knowing he will brake at around 100m before the curve i slam my brake down at 150m (dont notice any wheelblocks dont even think a mini can at topspeed?) before i even have to turn in i am almost nearly hitting him and still going a bit to fast for the turn wich doesnt seam right if you ask me? Again dont have any wheel lockups that i can tell but the car just feel like weak brakes (but the guy infront of me braked harder).

I have to say that my brakes are not warm at the time (under 250c) but dont think that the car infront of me has better tempratures as you cant setup the brake venting.

Looking in the control setup i do see the brake going all the way to the right when pressed so it seams my controls are in order.

So i am a bit stumped as to how other cars seam to brake shorter and harder then me? i can notice it offline and online.

Hope anyone can help me find out what is wrong or what i am doing wrong.

Thx for reading

 

[Jarrod Keen]

Well, lets start with breaking style... try to break a little earlier and break much more gently... listening for lockup of the tires. If you hear sqeeling, let off a bit until traction is returned. Try this technique and you should make progress.....

Next step we'll look at your break sensivity settings.... what % do you have your break sensitivity set to?

 

[Chris Wuyts]

100%
But like i said i cant hear/notice any lockups on those higher speeds i do notice em on lower speeds and dont press the pedal hard then its mostly at high speeds that i have the problem
I even looked at a replay and dont notice any wheels locking , till the point were i am to far in the corner ofcourse (off the line) but i already braked earlyer then the car infront of me so dont think i should even be there to begin with

 

[Freddie Besems]

You can also try to change the brake bias. Depending on the car and fuel load.

Use more on the front, maybe it can help a bit.


But i do recognise the problem you have, you are not alone. In the meantime im using two brakepedals attached to eachadder with a big plate mounted on it so i have to push real hard to lock up.

Braking sooner means most of the time loosing time to the car in front of you or getting passed by the one who is following you.

Also try to focus on braking points and not looking to the car who you are chasing. Meaning look for some points on the track (camera, shields bridge etc) what the best braking point is and try to practice a lot.
And maybe you have/need a race buddy you can race and helps you practising.

 

[Chris Wuyts]

Brake bias might help a bit i geus i can fiddle around with it some more.

My pedals are lightweights so np in slamming em down (DFGT)

Loosing time and getting passed is idd a very big problem i have on tracks after long straights.

I focus on points already i looked at where the cpu cars braked in race monitor and then braked at the same spot (the 100m plate on curitiba 1st corner) but i never make it and if i brake earlier i get passed or nearly passed.
I kinda have a race buddy my uncle but we both cant host a server we can join (isp limitation) and publics usualy dont run this track on mini's

 

[Willie Watt]

Hey still new and got a bit of a problem (atleast i think so).

I think i got it on all cars but as im mostly driving a mini i will use these as a example.

When braking it seams my car wont slow down as much as other cars (cpu or player) i mean i slam the brake before the guy in front of me and i still need to be rly rly carefull not to bump him.

Im not sure if it is my handeling the pedal is wrong or that some setting is wrong somewhere but i have tried nearly everything, from brake pressure to brake balance to auto gear to slow downshifts to fast downshifts.

Best example i can think of is:

Long straight driving 2-3 car lenght behind someone knowing he will brake at around 100m before the curve i slam my brake down at 150m (dont notice any wheelblocks dont even think a mini can at topspeed?) before i even have to turn in i am almost nearly hitting him and still going a bit to fast for the turn wich doesnt seam right if you ask me? Again dont have any wheel lockups that i can tell but the car just feel like weak brakes (but the guy infront of me braked harder).

I have to say that my brakes are not warm at the time (under 250c) but dont think that the car infront of me has better tempratures as you cant setup the brake venting.

Looking in the control setup i do see the brake going all the way to the right when pressed so it seams my controls are in order.

So i am a bit stumped as to how other cars seam to brake shorter and harder then me? i can notice it offline and online.

Hope anyone can help me find out what is wrong or what i am doing wrong.

Thx for reading

Chris,

Mini's are a breed to themselves. It's a pity that you don't have an H-pattern shifter as the best way to stop them is to crash the box into the gear that you want for the corner at the same time as you brake. Note, don't do this in any car other than a Mini. You just can't blow up the Mini engine, no matter how hard you try.

If you use sequential then changing quickly through the gears without stopping at the intermediate ones should help. The classic example is Brand's hatch. As you come down off paddock hill in 4th changing up into 5th as you climb the hill, then just as you are about to go under the bridge, you change from 5th to 2nd and brake. The fronts will lock up but only for a second then you have time to turn in. it's the same coming to the top of paddock hill when you're in 6th and slam to 3rd before changing back up to 4th and turning in.

Two further tips, Get yourself a "live" telemetry addon. I use DX, that way you can see in real time if you are locking up. 2nd get hold of a motec program (I2 is in the downloads section) and look at it after to see just what happens with your wheels.

 

[Nigel Atkins]

Mini's are a breed to themselves. It's a pity that you don't have an H-pattern shifter as the best way to stop them is to crash the box into the gear that you want for the corner at the same time as you brake. Note, don't do this in any car other than a Mini. You just can't blow up the Mini engine, no matter how hard you try.

i use a H-shifter in GT legends and when i want to down shift quick i just miss out gears ie:- 6th to 4th to 2nd ect

 

[Chris Wuyts]

Chris,

Mini's are a breed to themselves. It's a pity that you don't have an H-pattern shifter as the best way to stop them is to crash the box into the gear that you want for the corner at the same time as you brake. Note, don't do this in any car other than a Mini. You just can't blow up the Mini engine, no matter how hard you try.

If you use sequential then changing quickly through the gears without stopping at the intermediate ones should help. The classic example is Brand's hatch. As you come down off paddock hill in 4th changing up into 5th as you climb the hill, then just as you are about to go under the bridge, you change from 5th to 2nd and brake. The fronts will lock up but only for a second then you have time to turn in. it's the same coming to the top of paddock hill when you're in 6th and slam to 3rd before changing back up to 4th and turning in.

Two further tips, Get yourself a "live" telemetry addon. I use DX, that way you can see in real time if you are locking up. 2nd get hold of a motec program (I2 is in the downloads section) and look at it after to see just what happens with your wheels.

Very usefull information about the shifting i did notice some "odd" engine sounds when watching people ingame

About "live" telemetry atm i am using XD as well its free but this doesnt show wheel lockup sadly enough So maybe i need to look at DX wich is as far as i can tell free but you need a motec server to run it wich isnt free?
So maybe i need to look at a motec license problem with that is i change pc's quite often (not just parts mostly everything aka new system well laptops atm).

So i will try this out in a min and see of i can brake faster when i try to "break" the engine

 

[Willie Watt]

i use a H-shifter in GT legends and when i want to down shift quick i just miss out gears ie:- 6th to 4th to 2nd ect

Nigel:

I only use the H Shifter for the mini's and block change the same as you commonly 6th to 3rd and 5th to 2nd as the mini's in race can take it. In Race ON in any of the other cars, you'll break the engine if you change down with too high revs that'll be you done DHR and -10 ranking points.

 

[Willie Watt]

Very usefull information about the shifting i did notice some "odd" engine sounds when watching people ingame

About "live" telemetry atm i am using XD as well its free but this doesnt show wheel lockup sadly enough So maybe i need to look at DX wich is as far as i can tell free but you need a motec server to run it wich isnt free?
So maybe i need to look at a motec license problem with that is i change pc's quite often (not just parts mostly everything aka new system well laptops atm).

So i will try this out in a min and see of i can brake faster when i try to "break" the engine

I think that DX is about 5 Euro's (been a while now) and Alek will easily send you a new license for new pc's

 

[Jarrod Keen]

I'd set my breaking at around 30% (this is in the options selection in the menu) and then play with break bias etc.... Someone else should weigh in here regarding the decoupling of the axis etc.... I know there are things you have to do to setup most wheels correctly but i just can't remember what they are. I know that I've used the logitec profiler to get my wheel setup correctly.

 

[Chris Wuyts]

think i got mine on 0% to test still ... need to change it back haha the f3000 doest like my setting atm

my axes are decoupled though dont worry

but trying the "overkill" downshifting helped alot took around 0.5-0.75sec off on most tracks just need to get used to it now

 

[Günthar Rowe]

I use the following:

I use 0% throttle sens for all cars, and keep my brake at 30%.

I find at 0% i have more control exiting corners...in FWD less torque steer, and in RWD less oversteer.

With the brakes lowered I have found that if i manage to lock up the brakes, I can slightly ease off the brake pedal and unlock without sliding right through the corner.

Keith

 

[Oliver Wickens]

A technique i use for late braking is effectively doing your own ABS. At my initial braking point I brake as anyone else would then 50m or so before the corner i repeatedly release the pedal (only slightly) then on again quickly, timing the last release of the pedal with turn in. Does hurt the tires a fair bit and pedal/car settings/ type of corner all have an effect, but once you've sorted it, should open up more opportunities to pass (or defend) in a race.

Hope this helps.

 

[Derek Speare]

Brake + Downshifting = shorter stopping distances - just make sure you don't pull down your gears too quickly or you'll overrev the engine or kick the backend out. Once you get a feel for it, you'll knock a lot off of your stopping distances.

d

 

[Adam Allen]

Hey guys , recently new to this sim series and am having a similar problem , i have abs off and it seems no matter how hard i try if i flatten my brake pedal the wheels just dont lock up and if they do its not untill the car is going very slow.
Mind you i am going by sound and vision but it just seems like they are not locking up

 

[Chris Wuyts]

Try shifting back much much sooner adzdoom it helped me .. do know though my wheels still rarely lockup

Also set brake bias more to front wheels you will get to a point where they WILL lock then go back 1step so you can do a full out brake+agressive downshift and not loose control helped me alot getting that sorted (nearly 1-1.5sec per lap)

 

[Adam Allen]

Thanks for the reply Chris, i will try that i think being new to the series i need to settle on a few cars to learn and not swtch around so much as so many of the cars handle and brake so differently.
Off to test out your tips , thanks again !