buttkicker gamer 2 vs Mini LFE? need help :(

I recently purchased a Mini LFE and have it mounted to my rig, i feel very little in the seat because of the NLR v3 I use, I did plan on attaching the Buttkicker directly to the chair, I asked for advice on a sim racing fb page and one person commented that the Gamer 2 is a superior unit, is there any truth in this as it would be much easier to mount to the NLR v3 with the bracket I have.
Thanks in advance for answers
 

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I do have a thread that detailed all the work arounds i tried with the Mini Lfe's....the solution is still a proper frame like the Gamer, Ask a welding buddy to make you a Mount with a basic plate mount for the miniLFE, a flexible pivot arm, and a basic flat mount to bolt to what ever your working with. I haven't tested this myself, but would imagine you could replicate the Gamer 2 Mount in some form and function.
 
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I'd be tempted to mount the LFE near your pedals, and use a buttkicker gamer 2 on the NLR mount. I've just bought that combo but am in the middle of rebuilding it onto a sim-lab GT1 at the mo so it's not operational yet. Sadly it doesn't destroy planets in the mean time either. I did have an issue with the gamer doing some odd oscillation every second, but only had about 2 hours with it before deciding the NLR wheelstand was too wobbly for the fanatic clubsport I just bought too, so didn't get chance to sort it out.
 
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I'd be tempted to mount the LFE near your pedals, and use a buttkicker gamer 2 on the NLR mount. I've just bought that combo but am in the middle of rebuilding it onto a sim-lab GT1 at the mo so it's not operational yet. Sadly it doesn't destroy planets in the mean time either. I did have an issue with the gamer doing some odd oscillation every second, but only had about 2 hours with it before deciding the NLR wheelstand was too wobbly for the fanatic clubsport I just bought too, so didn't get chance to sort it out.
I managed to trade my LFE mini with a gamer2, so now I can mount it on the NLRv3 bracket, I have the same cockpit, although taking it apart and rebuilding as the NLRv3 has lifted me 10-15cm
 
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I found my Gamer 2 to be pretty useless when mounted to the NLMv3 bracket, and even worse when mounted directly to my P1 chassis (it just buzzed).
 
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I think statistically the Mini LFE is a superior unit to the Gamer 2. It also depends on how you power and mount them. I've got mine mounted on the GT1 frame, but super close to the seat and directly under the pedals. I have them mounted to a small flat (2-3mm) plate that Simlab sent me in my GT1 order. I think the way that this allows the Mini to vibrate and oscillate slightly helps to generate more feeling. This is opposed to having it directly bolted to the aluminium profile with no plate.
 
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While i cant find my main thread i had a Back and forth With Rodney AKa The Tactile guru, (somehow thread posts are only counted back so far ?)

IMO you might be right on the stats for Units sold, the Gamer 2 isn't ideal with 2 ohm and goofy amp

However

Having had both in hands, swapping back and forth in eachother's frames On a Dayton 150 and the stock Gamer amps, Proved what i know.

The Gamer 2 Frame IS the Magic sauce.

here's the only snippit i can find of the postings.

https://www.racedepartment.com/threads/buttkicker-mini-lfe-simvibe.81887/#post-1702386
 
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I believe the units are identical, same piston weights, same sizes just that different resistance used between the 2ohm and 4ohm models. The "Gamer" makes use of mechanical leverage, what isn't clear is how this increases the felt sensations of the unit.

My understanding is the (mechanical leverage) of the Gamer unit amplifies the output increasing the strength of the unit. This will give the impression it is much stronger at the same wattage.

What is not certain but I do not expect, the leverage vastly improves the frequency output of the unit. Let's say with frequencies it struggles more with (under 30Hz). I've personally not compared a Gamer with a Mini Concert to make a fair comparison.

So possibly on a standard mounted unit, by increasing the soundcards amplitude output level (via pre-amp) this too would make the unit feel stronger at the same wattage. Additionally, we can then question what if we also increase the dB of certain frequencies via EQ does either of these accomplish a similar increase to that of the mechanical leverage?

It raises good questions but I've not seen anyone fully look at all the possibilities to find better understanding if we can replicate what the leverage does via other means.
 
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All i know is that i was Ready to return the Mini LFE's and Dayton in favor of more Gamer 2's...Thankfully i figured out the magic sauce before that happened.

Someone needs to weld up a simple flexi mount and get to testing eh...simple as that eh.
 
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All i know is that i was Ready to return the Mini LFE's and Dayton in favor of more Gamer 2's...Thankfully i figured out the magic sauce before that happened.

Someone needs to weld up a simple flexi mount and get to testing eh...simple as that eh.


The question is, does the mechanical leverage improve the low Hz range or indeed increase the high Hz operating range of the unit? Or is it just gains in transduction force: lb-ft/watt?

Can or cannot, amplitude gains via mechanical leverage (also) be achieved via pre-amp gain levels of the source? This is my point being raised. You need more (actual testing data) than mentions of "it felt much stronger" and that plates or leverage is the only or best solution to achieve an increase in energy with the same wattage.
 
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