Buri's Rig

Hi,

last month I bought my first wheel Thrustmaster T-GT and got hooked up in no time :), then I figured I would need a rig, so I started with Next Level Racing GTUltimate V2. Despite good reviews, I haven’t liked it, the seat had a lot of flex and weird shape for me, so I returned it. Ever since I’m reading through the forums figuring out how to improve my setup, which is desk and wooden chair right now :).

I have just ordered rseat N1 and HPP 3P-PRX-SE pedals as T-GT pedals were lacking, now I have some time meanwhile the orders arrives, so I’m figuring what to do next and tactile seems to be next best upgrade, so driving doesn’t feel so “dead”, although even without tactile this is most fun I had on PC ever :).

As for the plans, I will be keeping T-GT steering wheel for now. Currently I’m building DYI handbrake, I have some parts ordered, so when I have some progress, I will put some photos up, maybe with little step by step tutorial if it will be interesting for anyone (I’m total beginner so I will be figuring everything out as I go). It will be simple load cell handbrake.

So far I ordered Handbrake, Load Cell, Controller Board, I hope it all fits together. I will solve mechanical part when I get my hands on the handbrake. I was thinking about hydraulics, but it seems lot more complicated and expensive. Especially when for example HE are using also just load cells in their top of the line pedals, so I figured it must be good enough for DYI handbrake as well :).

For now I’m running laptop with CORE I7 and Geforce 1060 6GB and 24’’ monitor. This will be my next goal after tactile, but I will probably wait until summer or later when new graphic cards arrive and TVs with HDMI 2.1 with VRR (variable refresh rate) and possibly VR, this will be long wait, but I will at least have some time to gather some finances :).

Then I would like to get DD wheel and in more distant future I would like to get seat mover, probably Next Level Racing Motion Platform V3 as it integrates with rseat N1 quite nicely. My inspiration is Diablo2112 rig, it looks absolutely fantastic!

I will be eternally grateful for any help / advice anyone can give. Many thanks!
 
Example of needing good isolation and avoid the irritating noise issues.
What happens if we don't seek to use such...

We don't want a tactile rig to make so much noise but this is common on many peoples builds which they seemingly put up with?



 
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Colour the water test.
Helps show how a TST can be smoother in its delivery of tactile but a BK has much more punch via their small/medium/large pistons.

This is why we can get benefits by controlling and implementing both via (DR) for an optimal slam but also more delicate detailing.


Upcoming for my own build I have some concern as going to be using some aluminum rectangular profile that is hollow. It will be used between my cockpits steel tubing and the Ti300 isolators for the seat as a method of attaching it all together.

It may produce irritating sound/reverb issues but I won't know till I have it all implemented. I have some Fatmat and Dynamat purchased that I could apply to its internal part. Also, have samples of neoprene rubber of different thickness that could be applied to the external surface of it.

The hope is with tests and sharing we may find common applications that work well to nail down some good solutions against noise and reverb.

My seat tactile is going to have multiple layers of isolation materials or solutions. However I am going to use 5x Mason Industries spring isolators as my main cockpit frames secondary isolation. These were purchased years ago for a previous large wooded plinth build.I can adapt them to bolt to my steel chrome tubing that my rig primarily uses.

Lots to be discovered....
 
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Here is an arrangement of some options I will use with my tubing.

My current ideas are to have the seat tested with 4x sets of dual/stacked Ti 300 isolators combined with additional Wagner pads top/bottom all sandwiched in between the seat and mainframe.

Quite a crazy yet costly combo, when compared to some of the typical isolators as can be seen below. It should, however, produce a certain amount or degree of initial squishiness and travel for the seat (amplifying the tactile) but also has a firmness and metal surround contained within the base of the Ti300s. So should, in theory also help reduce the speed or amount of energy that escapes into the main floor section of my rig.

The floor tubing section is going to be supported by 5 of the springs that will likely then be on top of rubber floor tiles. Below this possibly neoprene rubber matt or noise reduction underlay.

I am investing heavily in my isolation (no kidding) mainly because my own tactile plans and installation are so extreme with the number and models being used. Will take me time to get things going but think we should find things or be able to learn from our own builds.

Don't believe or expect all considered ideas will work as planned but that's what testing is all about.


Some main components and solutions for my rigs isolation that will be thoroughly tested.
The final build design will be directed by what solutions perform best. Not just tied or limited to ideas or pre-considered theory.
 
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Hey, thanks for ideas!

Testing with phone with vibration app or glass of water didn't occured to me, it would be helpful.

I just went through it pretty quickly, I will reply later when I get a chance.

This weekend I focused mainly on the isolation using bitumen plates and other materials. I also had to pick up some tools not to screw things up - I got proper drill and device for vertical drilling, works pretty nice.

I won't do anything destructive anytime soon, I'm counting on testing different options. For example, I decided to ditch the stock base plate on which the pedal plate was sitting, as there was big lever on it, and the vibration caused lot of trouble. I have built temporary MDF pedal plate with 3 different positions for buttkicker with increasing distance from front to find out, what works best.

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One thing, I haven't done test's of the bitumen plates etc., because it would require complete assembly / dissasembly of the rig, and also once you put it on, it won't go down.

Here is progress I have made:

1) Back side - one layer of Dynamat Extreme

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2) Front side

Main plate central part - 3 layers - 1x Dynamat Extreme and 2x STP Bomb.

Other flat parts - 2 layers - 1x Dynamat Extreme and 1x STP Bomb.

Tubes - 1 layer - Dynamate Extreme.

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3) Front side on top of bitumen plates is 5 mm neoprene Gladen

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4) Pyrmidal soft foam Gladen in the middle

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That's all I managed to do over weekend. I have put maybe 20 hours into it :) doesn't seem much work done, but I'm focusing on small details. Maybe I will get +5 % performance for + 75 % more time invested, but so be it :)

I have decided to this in one step. So I haven't done any testing beside the "knock" test. It completely changed how it sounds and how the vibration travels. Every layer of bitumen I added made a lot of difference. Also for example in the front central compartment, it changed drastically when bitumen was added to one wall, then the other and it kept improving. So I would recommend to spend a lot of time in this area, as this is the foundation on which of the rest of the rig is built.

The bitumen plates are for reducing the vibration, then I added neoprene to catch lower frequency sounds and lastly soft pyramidal foam to catch the rest of the audible sounds that might be bouncing around (from mdf board to the rig back and forth). The neoprene did do quite little for the vibration but I think it will be good for some audible sound mitigation.

Regarding bitumen plates, Dynamat extreme is really soft and sticky and is little bit of pain to work with it, but you can bend it etc. to you exact needs. STP is much nicer to work with, it's not as sticky, so you can push it in smaller compartments more easily.

I was focusing on parts of the rig, which won't be much visible as I didn't want the rig look too messy, but in the end, I will be probably adding the bitumen plates and neopren on some visible parts of the main tube as the neoprene actually looks pretty cool :)

In the next days I need to finish some details on the front part but most importantly complete second layer of the bitumen + neoprene + foam on the back part.

I'm thinking that I will open the tubes (some of them have plastic caps) and try to also put bitumen as far as I can reach or try to at least shove and push the foam inside. Also there is something inside the tubes :) when I rotate it, there is something rattling, I hope I can take it out :)

So that's it so far, it takes a lot of time, so maybe isolator test will be on next weekend.
 
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Well, well you have been a busy boy :)

Seems with the work done applying the multilayers it should bring a really good improvement.
As you say you've tried with a tap/hammer test. Will be interesting to get your report on what happens when you attach a couple of BK now to the frame compared to before.

Can you do or upload video?

I forgot to say but you're maybe already using a small roller to help apply the Dynamat Extreme?

This video shows something potentially interesting, for doing tests if applying to metal area/section but wanting to remove easier.

Not tried yet myself but it may be handy for people to know if they find a section of metal they want to test with these type of products but then do not have a lot of work removing if needed. Perhaps, 8020 or other metal cockpit owners could test on parts of profile or their rigs...

I get a feeling some following, may wonder why your using multilayers of materials?
To try and help explain why it's just that each can have different properties for vibration dampening or audible soundproofing or decoupling. Lots of products in this sector from different brands and often multiple or confusing products.

We can see here how some compare regards Aero from GLADEN.
Think I will have to try some of their products too.
The AERO-Multi looks a good choice.

Just some ideas but possibly for some sections of the cockpit if removing the plastic caps.
You could consider foam rods or pipe insulation. While normally for the external of a pipe you may get a diameter that nicely fits inside. I guess it would even be possible to insert into these once inserted into the metal tubing of the rig, a rubber or silicone type hose to help expand it within.

A little WD40 may come in handy for this as well.
Wot you reckon?
&
Solid Poly Rods

Not sure what rubber materials may suit best and easily bends but its just trying to add some creative possibilities for the internal section of some tubing.

Good to bounce ideas off each other or discuss.
 
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I have some progress after last 2 days and like 12 hours of work on it :D

1) Pedals main contact point

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2) Detail

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See that black line? That's original metal :) There's 1x Dynamat Extreme layer, 2x STP Bomb layers, 1x Gladen neoprene layer. From each side :)

3) Cleanup

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It's really starting to shape up nicely. See that legs to the metal tubing? That was also 3 mm thick originally :) Now covered up in tape it looks almost like metal when on natural light and especially from distance, it is hardly noticable that something is altered on the rSeat. Camera makes it much more visible.

Shaping up the bitumen plates exactly is quite hard and time consuming, see on third image the leg to the main construction which is not covered up yet, 2 tubes to go around and also other irregular angles / edges. I want the rig to be functional but also look nicely, so I'm really taking the time with details.

For covering up the isolation, I'm using standard black electric isolation tape, works pretty nice.

The front platform feels now almost like it's eating up vibration compared to before I started with isolation. Now most loud / ringing thing on main platform are the seat adjustment rods, as they are hollow, they make quite ringing sound, but the vibration is quite contained in there. If it will be trouble, I will switch these rails for simple MDF spacer.

I think rigs made of wood might be better for vibration / resonance mitigation compared to metal.

I have almost finished the front part, I still need to push some isolation through the tubing and then close it, final layer of STP Bomb and cleanup with tape and it's done, then the back side, that will take forever :) Hopefully I can finish it on weekend.
 
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Well, well you have been a busy boy :)

Seems with the work done applying the multilayers it should bring a really good improvement.
As you say you've tried with a tap/hammer test. Will be interesting to get your report on what happens when you attach a couple of BK now to the frame compared to before.

Can you do or upload video?

I forgot to say but you're maybe already using a small roller to help apply the Dynamat Extreme?

This video shows something potentially interesting, for doing tests if applying to metal area/section but wanting to remove easier.

Not tried yet myself but it may be handy for people to know if they find a section of metal they want to test with these type of products but then do not have a lot of work removing if needed. Perhaps, 8020 or other metal cockpit owners could test on parts of profile or their rigs...

I get a feeling some following, may wonder why your using multilayers of materials?
To try and help explain why it's just that each can have different properties for vibration dampening or audible soundproofing or decoupling. Lots of products in this sector from different brands and often multiple or confusing products.

We can see here how some compare regards Aero from GLADEN.
Think I will have to try some of their products too.
The AERO-Multi looks a good choice.

Just some ideas but possibly for some sections of the cockpit if removing the plastic caps.
You could consider foam rods or pipe insulation. While normally for the external of a pipe you may get a diameter that nicely fits inside. I guess it would even be possible to insert into these once inserted into the metal tubing of the rig, a rubber or silicone type hose to help expand it within.

A little WD40 may come in handy for this as well.
Wot you reckon?
&
Solid Poly Rods

Not sure what rubber materials may suit best and easily bends but its just trying to add some creative possibilities for the internal section of some tubing.

Good to bounce ideas off each other or discuss.

I will try to make video on weekend. What would you like to see? Some test with glass of water I suppose?

For applying Dynamat, I'm using hands, back of the screw driver, wrench etc., this one works really nice.

upload_2018-3-21_2-32-1.png


Regardin removing bitumen plates, I think it would be quite problematic to get it down from the rig even so with WD40, which would make a terrible mess. For example if you would like to test it on particular testing metal plate because you have some advanced measuring tool to compare exact results between materials, then it could be good way to do it.

However on rig, it is so complicated to get it everywhere, it's impossible to get it down. Not to mention multiple layers. That's why I decided to give it 200 %, use multiple layers to make it as solid as possible and hope for the best.

For bitumen plates, I went for Dynamat Extreme and STP Bomb as recommended on some car audio forums. I think these serve same purpose to kill vibration by adding weight and also being softer and not to let vibration transform to audible sound as easily. Dynamat is quite thin, but very sticky. I think STP is helping much more with vibration as it seems it's almost twice as thick (I haven't checked specifications, but it feels like it). Once I add STP, the change is more radical than first layer of Dynamat.

As for mitigating sound, I went for little harder material - Gladen neoprene for midbass to lower frequencies.

And finally pyramid foam from Gladen to get the rest. I will use this in compartments where trapped sound might travel back and forth quite lot.

This approach made sense to me, it might be overkill, but I really need to keep it quiet as possible.

That aero multi looks interesting. I'm not sure how much difference is between various manufacturers, I would say it more depends on how much material (weight, volume) you put up there.

Thanks for idea with this pipe insulation to put up inside tubes! I already found one really flexible which might work. Just inside the tubes, the material is quite coarse and there is some metal sawdust as well. I will put cord through tubing and try to clean it up first, then apply lot of WD40 and try to pull it out / push it through. I hope I won't get stuck in the middle :)
 
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Hey guys, sorry for not updating more frequently, but I was on very limited time. I have hand surgery for carpal tunnel syndrome coming this thursday, so in the coming weeks / months I won't be able to focus on building / tuning mechanical part of the rig, so I was driven to get most of the mechanical part done before that, so I didn't find time to update the thread regulary.

Now most of the basic isolation is done.

Here is the progress.

1) Pedal base isolation

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2) Seat base isolation

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This is the part where I finished isolation with bitumen plates. I have basically reproduced every crease of the base of the pedals and base of the seat with several layers of bitumen plates, really crazy work :) I have put a lot of time into this, as cutting the plates exactly to weird shapes, fitting it, trimming it is very time consuming. I went really into the tiniest detail so everything is covered. Now the rig got more of the wooden type response to tapping than high pitched metal. Now there's almost nowhere to do the tap test anymore :D

Every layer I added, it gradually helped more and more, even the tap in the more distant parts of the rig got gradually better.

I would recommend going for some higher weight bitumen plates. I have tried Dynamat Extreme as base layer and STP Aero Bomb as additional layers. Dynamat helps too, but in comparison with STP it just feels light and thin. It's really sticky though. It might be little advantage, but also disadvantage.

If you try to stick Dynamat in some small compartment, it catches more easily on some other surface than you intend to, so it's quite pain to fit it exactly in these cases. STP is not as sticky, so it doesn't catch as easily and I think it's sticky enough. You can for example slide it on some surface to exact position and after that apply pressure to make it stick.

I was using alcohol to get the grease away so it sticks as best as possible, especially when stacking multiple layers. You can use alcohol to scrub away black color and then only aluminium sheet on top of bitumen surface remains. I haven't done this everywhere, but it might help to stick better, but I can't imagine, that bitumen would fall off. It's just crazy sticky and it sticks to bitumen material the most. So if you failed to cut piece perfectly, it's no problem to cut missing piece and then "bond it" to the rest of the material.

For applying pressure anything works. I haven't used any rollers. I used mostly hands (after using hands wipe the grease off with alcohol when applying multiple layers), then wrench, back off the screwdriver, anything works really.

Thanks to @Mr Latte for idea for isolation for outside of tubes to actually shove inside the tubes :) I have put it through the primary tubing under seat and pedals completely using some cord and WD40 to get it moving more easily.

I used this cutter, it works perfectly. I was using just blades to get to some parts with limited space, or when I needed to cut exactly perpendicular, just watch out as it's crazy sharp.

I used this "hole maker" to go around bolts.

For applying alcohol, I would recommend using gloves. As I have been putting several layers, it really messed up my hands (dried them out) in the end. I also got lot of scrapes when trying to fit in some small compartments and got cut on the already cut up plates which were in place around it. The bitumen has aluminium sheet which can be also really sharp. In the end I think I got allergy from the aluminium cutting into my hands and got some rash and it hurt quite badly when combined with dried out skin from the use of the alcohol, my hands looked pretty rad :) But I have put like 50 hours into this part alone, so it's pretty extreme and I guess most people won't go such lengths, so it might not be such problem.

This is it for bitumen part, if you have any questions, just ask and I'll try to help :)
 
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P3310078.jpg

I have applied Gladen neoprene material in one layer and then Gladen soft pyramydical soft foam. These are eating up audible sounds and preventing them from bouncing around too much. As with bitumen, every layer / part covered gradually helped. I was using just the knock test when doing this part, so I cannot comment on performance part when actually using tactile units, but it was impossible for me to install / uninstall during this process to test it.

These layers made sounds coming from knock test more deep and coming more only from uncovered parts. I have filled all the parts under the seat and it's great. This material is much easier to work with than bitumen. Easier to cut, measure etc. This part was pretty straightforward.

When I applied neoprene layer, I have used electrical black tape to cover seams.

Then lot of work was on detailing with the tape, so the isolation is not impacting the visual appearance of N1 rig. I have applied it extensively and it worked great. You can see the the tape overlaying stripes, but from regular distance it's not noticable, so I'm really happy I managed to do a quite big custom job on isolation and then also managed to cover it up. All in all, I think this was like 100 hours of work, I'm glad it's done and I hope I will never, ever have to get back to it :) Maybe in the future I will put more isolation on secondary tubing etc., but it will be peace of cake comparing it to the complexity of the base of the seat.

If the audible sounds are problem, I would definitely recommend going this way.

One more thing for bitumen plates STP Bomb Aero vs Dynafit - STP has painted grid, so that makes measuring and cutting it to required size much easier.
 
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Two TST239s arrived so I had to rework the attachment point to the seat to install them.

Initial setup. I got some thick soft spruce wood, quite thick - like 4 cm, and built connection using this. It's soft, so it's easy to work with. I don't have garage & proper tools, I had to make all the cutting with some basic manual tools. I ditched the metal bridge supplied with the rig (it felt really ringy on knock), and used wood instead. It was also easier for me to connect it between each other using L-shapes.

With this installation, the tactile feeling improved a lot, as the buttkicker is now connected from the back also to the front part of the seat attachment.

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Cleaning up. As ever, I have covered everything in black electrical isolation tape :) Must have used like 50 - 60 m in total :) I have put soft materials on the wood to limit audible noise. I belive it's light, so it doesn't impact vibration transfer at all or really minimally. I have ran out of materials, but if I had any more, I would have covered up side plates as well.

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I have reworked sliding mechanism of the seat - see metal bar under TST239 on last photo. Before the stock lever was causing quite a lot of trouble. However I will have to rework attachment of this seat platform to the rig, as it doesn't allow now full range of sliding movement that was previously available.
 
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So now for the initial impressions :)

I haven't driven it yet, I'm just testing using generated tones / frequency sweeps.

It feels completely awesome :) it really made difference. Before, I was unsure, whether seat or pedal transducers were running, now I have complete separation between the two.

Now the buttkickers are generating only "good" vibrations. Lower frequencies - to around 30 - 40 Hz are basically inaudible, nothing is resonating, banging etc. like before, just tactile feedback. The vibrations are also more clear and better felt with lower volume than before.

I have been tuning mainly engine effect for now and the transfer of power between BK Advance and TST239. This is the profile that works for me:

upload_2018-4-3_22-27-17.png


I'm tuning for frequencies around 1000 RPM = 16,66 Hz to 8500 RPM = 141,66 Hz. However I think it's impossible to use the BK Advance & TST combo with current software I know. I think SSW is using fixed frequency and only adjusting gain / volume of the effect. So right now, I think this combo is unusable without adding "audio" tactile to the mix or perhaps other software - I don't know how SimVibe works.

However with this setup, when I do frequency sweep, it just feels amazing, really lifelike. I think when connected to pedal input, and with engine audio, it would feel completely realistic.

For now, I have just one amp, so I had to tune the seat and pedals separately, hopefully the second amp & splitter is arriving tomorrow, so I will be able to put it all together :)

I already received HPP hydraulic pedals, as you could notice from images. I got one problem with them, around 70 - 80 Hz frequency they start to rattle. There is some loose space around some moving parts / axles, which is causing trouble at this certain frequency on my rig.

I figured I have three options or combination of these options to handle it.
  1. Use really thin spacers to limit the side to side movement at the axles.
  2. Use some of these antivibration mounts https://www.avmountsonline.co.uk/cylindrical-buffers/conical-buffers and make them put initial pressure on pedals (just like 2 % of the total pedal travel) which alleviates the problem. Then I would use DIView software http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=page&id=12 to create this 2 % deadzone so I don’t get any „false“ input. This solution would also have benefit of making pedals quieter when released suddenly.
  3. Using the software on the amplifier to reduce gain at 70 – 80 Hz frequency.
I think it will be no problem to solve it this way, I will just have to find what works best. I emailed with Mark and it seems it's problem that it's just me I'm having. I haven't actually driven with them yet but they feel really great all around, so I would totally recommend them! I will just have to figure out this one small issue I'm having.

I want to run these pedals inverted, so I will be building construction, that will allow this mounting.

Right now, the pedal plate is quite bad. BK and TST are too far away from the center of the plate, thus having big leverage and the MDF, although very hard and 3 cm thick it gives away and starts to bend and resonate at certain frequencies (might be related to problem with pedals, but I think it's not main issue). Lower volume is fine, but for big bumps, it causes some really weird stuff. As there is big leverage, on higher volume, it causes even the wheel & wheelplate to catch the vibration and starts to move a lot :) So it's not completely isolated from the rest of the rig via just these isolator mounts.

One upside is, that I can feel the BK Advance a little and more TST more going into my hands, which feels really great.

I have to rework the pedal base also due to using hydraulic pedals, it makes the isolators on the back end of pedal plate to compress, but at the front the get stretched upside. I'm not sure, they will handle the stretching abuse and not tear apart, as the pressure on the pedals might be quite big (I would say even 50 kg of force).

upload_2018-4-3_22-54-55.png


I will try to deal with this when building the construction for inverted setup.

These isolators added some stretch / flex to the otherwise solid rig, but I don't feel it. In seat, I don't feel movement even when there is clearly some (might be 1 cm to the back when pushing on the pedals hard) and in pedals, I don't feel the flex as I don't look down and brain evaluates it as the extension / addition to the pedal travel, so it is not issue for me right now. I will see how it actually feel when driving.

Hopefully I will be able to do some more testing and videos in the coming days as I will have more time as I will be out of work, but I will have just one hand, so I will see how it goes :)

I'm not sure if this is ineresting to anyone else, but if you have any questions, just ask and I'll try to do my best.
 
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So this was all the updates I have right now.

I would have one question for @Mr Latte as I'm figuring out how to continue:

I'm considering what tactile units to get for each wheel. I feel that for engine I don't really need big LFE as the BK Advance with addition of TST is producing the result I'm expecting from it and I'm running it like on half the available power so I don't need more. 1000 RPM is like 16,66 Hz which BK Advance is producing comfortably and I don't need to go any lower. BK Advance handle even 7,5 Hz quite ok.

I think I will be minimalistic with the effects. So far what I have tested I figured I want just engine effect, shift and bumps and breaking.

All other effects I have tried in SSW have felt quite wrong and brain was screaming at me and pulling me out of immersion. Shaking on wheel slip, acceleration lateral and sideways just feels wrong to me, as it is trying to simulate with tactile what I think should be simulated by other means.

Maybe I have the effects set up wrong, but I tinkered with it quite a bit and couldn't get it where it would feel realistic to me. Maybe the acceleration could be tuned, but so far it was blending with the engine effect. Also maybe those effects will feel better when I have stereo setup.

So my question is whether it would be beneficial getting 4x BK LFE for wheels? What benefits / downsides big BK LFE vs BK Advance has? Would it be overkill?

Can LFE produce same quality midrange as Advance? Or it has problems with it and for example for road texture & smaller bumps it would be better to get the Advance which would be more responsive than heavy piston of LFE?

The benefit of LFE I can imagine is in really low frequencies right? Can it play something from like 2 Hz for example? I'm looking for bump effect when you go over some bigger smoother bump in car, something like roller coaster type effect if I exaggerate it if you understand me.

I think that I wouldn't be able / nor want to use full power of LFE and I think Advance is plenty powerful for my needs / noise limitations.

I'm just wondering whether to try the big LFE or not, as they are not that much more expensive than Advance which I have to ship from USA.

Thanks for any ideas, this decision really bothers me. I could eventually return LFE if I found it unsuitable for my needs as it is shipping through Europe, but it would cost something...
 
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Really impressed with the work you did on the tubing and frame Michal, excellent work you really went to town on that. Going by your feedback it clearly has removed the issue you originally had with the metal tubing and main frame of the cockpit making ringing or reverb sounds.

With the shape of your cockpit, it looked to be a lot of work indeed as you expressed in the time you put into it. Wow, that's determination and dedication.

This would be so much simpler for those with 8020 rigs and I believe they too could experiment a little with these types of materials and make gains. I want to re-read again more of the things you asked or queried and will get back when I have more time (soon).

With all the materials you applied to the frame it may help what vibrations now travel into the floor section you have and are considering to use with its own isolation or further materials. It comes down to testing to see how well the isolators you have, help to maintain the tactile energy still in the seat/pedal platforms they support. My concern was not to kill or tail off the felt energy in the main seat and pedal areas, just beneath them.

Multiple Tactile
Having multiple units, especially the ones you're considering then that is a LOT of tactile energy. The truth is we can look at different isolation options but nobody really (yet) has done sufficient comparisons. Certainly not with a (bench test platform) to help determine what or how each (isolator product) performs or what combination of materials can bring the best level of isolation-performance/price ratio. Got to admit discovering that is something I have a bit of a fascination to one day start doing. I've had previous testing and experience by all means and feedback from many I helped over the years but this is also something I seek to learn more from in the coming of my own new build.

Testing Isolators
I like the look of that canted isolator you have on the pedals but also curious about the sandwich models too. Do think having a small amount of flex for rebound and then a firmer more solid rubber isolation will improve the tactile. I believe the initial rebound will help to increase the dispersion/energy of the tactile in the isolated platform acting like a mechanical lever with having a limited/controlled amount of flex.

Possibilities here are rubber dampening pads, under the isolators like those I have shown on the forums. Having some of the STP but underneath the isolator on the seat sliders or main frame section. Not on the isolated platform.

More Than One Solution?
The compressed wood may cause some reverb itself. This might be reduced with a small amount of the materials you have stuck underneath but my concern is not to deaden the isolated sections as this may reduce the felt tactile vibrations in them. Buttkciker etc usually state that solid timbers can perform better. Err but how much better than what you have, worthwhile better?

For pedals, I would of installed the BK under the heel section and the TST making more connection with the pedal stems themselves. Something like that brings the tactile from both the base and pedals that will combine together in each.

General Waffle & Ideas
However, if you are considering more tactile then we should discuss how the best way is to perhaps have in your cockpit with at least 4x tactile. These potentially being (Cen = Dual Role + Left & Right) work together and perform best in a small section like the pedals/footrest area.

I have some surprises in what I will do on my own rig here, stuff not seen before. I have tested brief mockups that show encouragement but not properly tested in a full build. However what I will say is each pedal can be better used if individually isolated to help increase the stereo positioning of bumps but still enable effects like engine and other mono effects to originate or form first and more within the base platform.

Serious Thought On - Where How Why?
I look at this in the perspective of "what is the role of the individual tactile unit", "what effects is it likely to have", "what is going to be that tactile units primary point of contact", "how to best direct the energy flow through this point of contact first". The energy will combine with the other tactile energy from the individual channels or effects but this can work to improve what we detect or feel from tests I've done.

Considerations For High End Tactile / Experimentation
My view is for pedals its possible to have isolated pedals on an isolated platform but with a clever configuration in how they are mounted. To enable greater control and delivery for the "purpose" of each unit and its "effects". We cant prevent all the channels and effects mixing completely nor do we want to but we can control their original point of contact and travel, in what they go through first. For me, I want to limit a left bump more to my left foot and pedal and likewise a right bump more to my right foot and pedal. What I will also say to you is that its possible to have the contact of this "stereo" tactile also go into the calves of our legs. For me this is easy to implement with the tubing I have but we do not need to waste the energy only by limiting it to our heels and bottom of our feet. Likewise, I have also tested a temp extension from my seat section that makes contact with rear left/right tactile units energy. This is being directed under my knees in stereo for each leg. It enhances the detection and immersion of the effect and will be implemented into my new build for sure.

Body Regions
Keep in mind what I have said in past, regards using "body regions" the more we can introduce (in a sensible way) the more we can inject tactile into specific body areas. Not just to have more, but to deliver specific effects into different areas to have a different point of "first contact" and direction of their energy to flow. With this, it helps highlight an individual effects delivery to a sensitive body region the brain will easily register.

An example of this would be for you to compare how you have your TST underneath compared to how it would feel if its original point of contact was with the spine or lower back. What Im discovering and still experimenting with if using multiple tactile is that having all the tactile come from one place/direction or basically having the same way to travel limits the potential of what we can feel. Mainly as by the time some of our body regions nerves/tissue etc feel them they are already mixed together. This is also the factor we want to avoid in my view with pedals. Yet nearly everybody sticks multiple tactile onto a single base platform in which each unit and its effects will be mixed with no flow of control of each effect being considered.

Many rigs have tactile installed on the 4 corners representing the wheels. This also in my view is very flawed. As again the user is letting the tactile unit's energy freely flow into parts of a cockpit and not only losing energy but once again not making use of determining the path the tactile has to go. In doing that we also have the energy going places we wont even feel it, so it's not very efficient use of the tactile energy. This we can do with direct mounting and to bring the main force of the energy to where it should or indeed we want it to be more felt.

I hope this makes sense...
Will follow up later on your other queries. Interesting chatting and seeing your progress, this is your rig afterall so as always its your call what you do or do not do.
 
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@Michal Burisin

In various thread I discuss the benefits of the BK LFE, I got a BK CT recently too (finally) but can't as yet do a proper/fair comparison till I have both installed on the new planned build.

Nobody seems to of ever done a good comparison on each and certainly not from a Race Cockpit installation perspective. The Concert series is designed to be more musical, so that means more definition in midbass Hz (according to Buttkicker) . The LFE is deemed to be most suited for lowest Hz extension. Each seem to go very low from my early analysis and can be very strong but I need to spend time with each and do in-depth tests with effects.

The BK Advance is quite a bit off the potential in low-bass energy, especially with the lower frequencies that have the most satisfaction and energy. This is not to say it doesnt feel good, it is an ideal unit as it performs well and much better than the Mini Series. It also seems to have decent responsre upto the higher Hz. While we cant say this with the LFE.

My advice to you would be as to others. Be patient if you want to do this in the best way. Buy 1x BK LFE and compare for yourself it to the BKA. You should be able to return it for little expense but is ideal for you to discover for yourself more what suits your own preference. Its for you to determine do you want the very best low end or potentially more finer detailing. You will get great detailing with the BK/TST combo but you may like to keep these more for the constant engine and gearchange effects. Its easy to compare or have effects operate on whatever or all channels via Audacity. Help can be given...

SSW default effects are not a good way to experience the level of tactile hardware you have. When we start going through the new effects you will find an example from my own newest files and the solutions I am bringing with them that are much better.

We get about 3x the low bass energy performance from a BK Mini - BK Advance but then about 3x this again with the BK LFE.

Here is a clue why this is:

Pistons

BK Mini Lfe
0.375 lbs. (0.17 kg)

BK Advance
1 lb (0.45 kg)

LFE
3.75 lbs (1.48 kg)
 
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Really impressed with the work you did on the tubing and frame Michal, excellent work you really went to town on that. Going by your feedback it clearly has removed the issue you originally had with the metal tubing and main frame of the cockpit making ringing or reverb sounds.

With the shape of your cockpit, it looked to be a lot of work indeed as you expressed in the time you put into it. Wow, that's determination and dedication.

This would be so much simpler for those with 8020 rigs and I believe they too could experiment a little with these types of materials and make gains. I want to re-read again more of the things you asked or queried and will get back when I have more time (soon).

With all the materials you applied to the frame it may help what vibrations now travel into the floor section you have and are considering to use with its own isolation or further materials. It comes down to testing to see how well the isolators you have, help to maintain the tactile energy still in the seat/pedal platforms they support. My concern was not to kill or tail off the felt energy in the main seat and pedal areas, just beneath them.

Multiple Tactile
Having multiple units, especially the ones you're considering then that is a LOT of tactile energy. The truth is we can look at different isolation options but nobody really (yet) has done sufficient comparisons. Certainly not with a (bench test platform) to help determine what or how each (isolator product) performs or what combination of materials can bring the best level of isolation-performance/price ratio. Got to admit discovering that is something I have a bit of a fascination to one day start doing. I've had previous testing and experience by all means and feedback from many I helped over the years but this is also something I seek to learn more from in the coming of my own new build.

Testing Isolators
I like the look of that canted isolator you have on the pedals but also curious about the sandwich models too. Do think having a small amount of flex for rebound and then a firmer more solid rubber isolation will improve the tactile. I believe the initial rebound will help to increase the dispersion/energy of the tactile in the isolated platform acting like a mechanical lever with having a limited/controlled amount of flex.

Possibilities here are rubber dampening pads, under the isolators like those I have shown on the forums. Having some of the STP but underneath the isolator on the seat sliders or main frame section. Not on the isolated platform.

More Than One Solution?
The compressed wood may cause some reverb itself. This might be reduced with a small amount of the materials you have stuck underneath but my concern is not to deaden the isolated sections as this may reduce the felt tactile vibrations in them. Buttkciker etc usually state that solid timbers can perform better. Err but how much better than what you have, worthwhile better?

For pedals, I would of installed the BK under the heel section and the TST making more connection with the pedal stems themselves. Something like that brings the tactile from both the base and pedals that will combine together in each.

General Waffle & Ideas
However, if you are considering more tactile then we should discuss how the best way is to perhaps have in your cockpit with at least 4x tactile. These potentially being (Cen = Dual Role + Left & Right) work together and perform best in a small section like the pedals/footrest area.

I have some surprises in what I will do on my own rig here, stuff not seen before. I have tested brief mockups that show encouragement but not properly tested in a full build. However what I will say is each pedal can be better used if individually isolated to help increase the stereo positioning of bumps but still enable effects like engine and other mono effects to originate or form first and more within the base platform.

Serious Thought On - Where How Why?
I look at this in the perspective of "what is the role of the individual tactile unit", "what effects is it likely to have", "what is going to be that tactile units primary point of contact", "how to best direct the energy flow through this point of contact first". The energy will combine with the other tactile energy from the individual channels or effects but this can work to improve what we detect or feel from tests I've done.

Considerations For High End Tactile / Experimentation
My view is for pedals its possible to have isolated pedals on an isolated platform but with a clever configuration in how they are mounted. To enable greater control and delivery for the "purpose" of each unit and its "effects". We cant prevent all the channels and effects mixing completely nor do we want to but we can control their original point of contact and travel, in what they go through first. For me, I want to limit a left bump more to my left foot and pedal and likewise a right bump more to my right foot and pedal. What I will also say to you is that its possible to have the contact of this "stereo" tactile also go into the calves of our legs. For me this is easy to implement with the tubing I have but we do not need to waste the energy only by limiting it to our heels and bottom of our feet. Likewise, I have also tested a temp extension from my seat section that makes contact with rear left/right tactile units energy. This is being directed under my knees in stereo for each leg. It enhances the detection and immersion of the effect and will be implemented into my new build for sure.

Body Regions
Keep in mind what I have said in past, regards using "body regions" the more we can introduce (in a sensible way) the more we can inject tactile into specific body areas. Not just to have more, but to deliver specific effects into different areas to have a different point of "first contact" and direction of their energy to flow. With this, it helps highlight an individual effects delivery to a sensitive body region the brain will easily register.

An example of this would be for you to compare how you have your TST underneath compared to how it would feel if its original point of contact was with the spine or lower back. What Im discovering and still experimenting with if using multiple tactile is that having all the tactile come from one place/direction or basically having the same way to travel limits the potential of what we can feel. Mainly as by the time some of our body regions nerves/tissue etc feel them they are already mixed together. This is also the factor we want to avoid in my view with pedals. Yet nearly everybody sticks multiple tactile onto a single base platform in which each unit and its effects will be mixed with no flow of control of each effect being considered.

Many rigs have tactile installed on the 4 corners representing the wheels. This also in my view is very flawed. As again the user is letting the tactile unit's energy freely flow into parts of a cockpit and not only losing energy but once again not making use of determining the path the tactile has to go. In doing that we also have the energy going places we wont even feel it, so it's not very efficient use of the tactile energy. This we can do with direct mounting and to bring the main force of the energy to where it should or indeed we want it to be more felt.

I hope this makes sense...
Will follow up later on your other queries. Interesting chatting and seeing your progress, this is your rig afterall so as always its your call what you do or do not do.

Thanks, I really went little bit Hulk style on the isolation part, but for me it was definitely worth it :)

Main parts that should get tactile (pedals / seat) are suspended on antivibration mounts, so I think nothing is dampened directly inside those parts. Some tactile energy is definitely leaking outside - when set high the wheel desk starts to shake pretty violently :) This will be solved via secondary suspension - whole rig will be suspended on top of the wooden board.

Flanged mounts - I have went too stiff with these (max. load 69 kg), when 4x of these are used together, it's way too stiff. It might be good in softer versions, but I will go with the other types.

UU Shear mounts - I like these, as they provide isolation for up & down movement which is exactly right for buttkickers big impacts. I will probably use 8x of these to suspend the N1 above wooden board. And also 4x of these to suspend pedals.

These are pretty resistant to this line of force:

upload_2018-4-8_21-56-25.png


For pedals, I will be making platform for inverted setup:
upload_2018-4-8_22-0-34.png


As these isolators are resistant to front to back pressure, I think they are good option for pedals in my opinion. However with stiffer pedals, there will be certainly lot of flex added to the pedal travel as there will be also up & down movement in isolators when brake pedal is pressed hard. I think this flex is very repeatable and I think it won't hurt my driving with my current level of driving ability.

For advanced drivers it might be problem.

I have 4x 50 kg version. I will either go for 43 kg or 25 kg versions or some combination.

Sandwich mounts - the sandwich mounts work great for seat. I have one rated to 95 kg, but it's very soft in lateral movement. When tactile is active it's work is nicely visible, in specs they say it can be loaded in compression, shear or a combination of both by fitting at an angle. So I hope I wont tear them apart with repeated heavy braking, only time will tell. Under heavy breaking it also makes the seat travel backward aprox. 0,5 cm, but I don't feel it.

Hopefully soon I will be able to do some video.

Multiple Tactile

It's definitely a lot of tactile :) But from what I see how good the isolators are working, I believe I can reduce almost all if not really all the energy going into the floor, at least to that extent that it won't bother neighbours below me.

Proper testing is great idea, however it would get costly really quickly. I'm trying to get the fastest way to the best results and I will report on that, even with this attitude the mistakes are unavoidable - as I did with Flanged mounts. With purposely trying various solutions a lot of materials would get thrown out eventually.

For me the biggest issue is now starting to be noise and not the vibration as I believe I have this part figured out.

The noise issue I believe would be best addressed by professional solution, for examle here. However it's price is starting around 100 EUR per square meter, which would add up to around 4000 EUR for the room I'm considering, and that only for floor & ceiling and 2 walls.

So until when I'll have that kind of money and I'm prepared to spend them on this, I will have to keep the volume down - mostly the TSTs now causing the biggest noise.

Testing Isolators

I will try to prepare video soon to give you idea how these are working.

I think rubber pads under isolators are unnecessary, if more isolation is needed in that part, I would opted for softer isolator.

STP under something heavy (seat / pedals) won't work, as I believe the bitumen would eventually give away and get spread away from under isolator.

More than one solution

The setup under the seat and pedals is temporary. For pedals new section design see this image:

upload_2018-4-8_22-0-34.png

The TST would be sending vibrations directly to pedal arms with BK in the front, what do you think?

I'm still deciding whether to go for much higher density MDF compared to spruce which is used now. Or whether to go full metal. So far I'm inclining to MDF. Even TSTs have most mounting options described into the wood so it can't be that bad.

For metal, I'm not sure if it wouldn't introduce some ringing / reverbs. It might be okay with plates for example 0,5 cm thick. What would you choose - 2 cm MDF or 0,5 cm metal?

However for now I will stick to temprary solution under seat I have which works good so far.

I still need to figure out whether to go for seat mover Next Level Racing Motion Platform V3, or Prosimu and move the whole rig. Right now, when I'm doing this quite complicated tactile setup, it seems to me, it won't work with NLR so well, as I would need to carry 4x tactile units just attached to the seat and its slim mounting which I think is crazy :)

I will probably focus on tactile right now and possibly save up over years for 4x separate actuators solution and in the meantime go for smaller projects as dedicated traction loss and possibly G-Seat.

Going 4x actuators, beside other advantages is also better, that I could lock down seat tactile setup and then I wouldn't have to change it completely when going seat mover which brings lot of limitations with respect to tactile in my eyes.

General Waffle & Ideas

I'm really interested what you will come up with :) How are you progressing with your build? When can we expect some initial teasers? :)

Serious Thought On - Where How Why?

As I said previously, I'm also having this point of view - at least my brain has, so many effects doesn't work for me because they feel unrealistic.

For me it's quite simple.

Seat + pedals dual role setup - engine + shifts, front braking.

4 channels for separate wheels bumps and that's probably it. At least from the point of view I have now. All other effects didn't work for my brain pulling me out of immersion.

I would like to have additional tactile unit(s) for wheel, as engine effects feel great in hands. I haven't seen this in other rigs - maybe their isolation is not as strong and the vibrations travel also to the wheel. I feel it little in the hands on my rig, but way too weak and I would like more.

Considerations For High End Tactile / Experimentation

I have been also thinking about this, but in the end I think left / right separation in car is also done only by wheels serving as contact points and then it's all mixed up in the whole car chassis, so I think going for this advanced setup (pedals separation etc.) might bring more immersion and be better sensed but might go further from the realism than closer to it.

The difference is that tactile units are mounted closer to the body and I think I will try to address this by adding latency presented to each wheel, based on how far is the driver located from each wheel. And maybe I will try to extend these tactile units further away from the body on some stiff extension arms.

For this, software with fully individual wheel separation will be neccessity.

Same goes for me for contact points under calves etc., in car these are also free in space and just receiving vibrations from pedal they're pressing and heel, which is good enough for me. I'm really sensitive to thinks that doesn't add up to the reality even though they might be more immersive.

I will wait how you implement these and see if I will possibly try it in future.

Body Regions

I will be experimenting with different mounting position, but acrylic bucket is very limiting, I'm not sure if any tactile unit can be mounted directly to it and not create whole lot of mess.

I view mixing tactile in some part and then travelling to the body as realistic for my usage - just engine and bumps, it works the same way in car.

As you are trying to simulate acceleration - front and lateral, wheel slip and other effects it might be more important to have very defined paths for tactile to travel.

For my seat setup with the engine effect it works perfectly as in real life, the vibrations are coming from the bottom of the seat - first contact point back of the legs and travelling upward - works great for TST. Buttkicker is behind the seat, and it's connected to the same base, I don't feel much difference to TST which is mounted directly under the seat, so this works perfectly for me so far.

Thanks for lengthy reply, lot of ideas for me to consider!
 
Upvote 0
@Michal Burisin

In various thread I discuss the benefits of the BK LFE, I got a BK CT recently too (finally) but can't as yet do a proper/fair comparison till I have both installed on the new planned build.

Nobody seems to of ever done a good comparison on each and certainly not from a Race Cockpit installation perspective. The Concert series is designed to be more musical, so that means more definition in midbass Hz (according to Buttkicker) . The LFE is deemed to be most suited for lowest Hz extension. Each seem to go very low from my early analysis and can be very strong but I need to spend time with each and do in-depth tests with effects.

The BK Advance is quite a bit off the potential in low-bass energy, especially with the lower frequencies that have the most satisfaction and energy. This is not to say it doesnt feel good, it is an ideal unit as it performs well and much better than the Mini Series. It also seems to have decent responsre upto the higher Hz. While we cant say this with the LFE.

My advice to you would be as to others. Be patient if you want to do this in the best way. Buy 1x BK LFE and compare for yourself it to the BKA. You should be able to return it for little expense but is ideal for you to discover for yourself more what suits your own preference. Its for you to determine do you want the very best low end or potentially more finer detailing. You will get great detailing with the BK/TST combo but you may like to keep these more for the constant engine and gearchange effects. Its easy to compare or have effects operate on whatever or all channels via Audacity. Help can be given...

SSW default effects are not a good way to experience the level of tactile hardware you have. When we start going through the new effects you will find an example from my own newest files and the solutions I am bringing with them that are much better.

We get about 3x the low bass energy performance from a BK Mini - BK Advance but then about 3x this again with the BK LFE.

Here is a clue why this is:

Pistons

BK Mini Lfe
0.375 lbs. (0.17 kg)

BK Advance
1 lb (0.45 kg)

LFE
3.75 lbs (1.48 kg)

I have ran into having the BK Advance to run into banging on lower frequencies (10 - 15 Hz) and higher volume output. It feels it's banging inside itself, did I ran into its performance limitations? When I press hand firmly on the buttkicker (limiting its movement with isolator) it gets little bit quieter - maybe it's catching some resonance with movement on the soft isolator? I will make video later.

I'm not sure if I would want to run it this high for engine effect anyway, so it might not be even a problem. If it was this performance limit, I suppose BK LFE would solve it.

@Mr Latte Could you give any estimate on what frequencies can LFE / Concert play effectively?

For example I would say BK Advance is effective in 9 Hz to 70 Hz range tops.

I will follow your advice, one thing I don't know is whether to get the LFE or Concert. My usage would be solely bumps & road texture for each wheel. In this point of view as you write the Concert has more detailing might actually make more sense for road texture. I think postage back to e-shop might be easily 100 - 150 EUR, so it's pretty much that if it doesn't work I will keep the big unit anyway and use it for engine effect on the seat as more power is necessary to move the drivers weight than in pedals platform.
 
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Thats a lot to cover Michal.
Some below more to follow:

Dont overthink the effects at this stage and really having better effects make all the difference.
In the testing I have done, applying more body contact zones simply brings more immersion as we have more tissue/nerves/bone conduction happening and often in sensitive areas. It can enable us to have an effect feel more distinctive. This can be engine in the spine, or feet combined.

Effects Distribution
For example, in my full build I could have lateral G in action on a long left hand bend.
Rather than feel this in the pedals and my sides with a typical installation on pedals and seat.

Pedals: Front Right Channel
Right foot, calves and lower leg region

Seat: Rear Right Channel
The underside of right knee, leg sides/thighs buttocks and back right shoulder

Both front and rear channels are active together with the effect.
Rather than relying on vibes go through the seat as they will, I will channel tubing from the tactile primary installation point to each region. This gives direct input to that body region as well as what normally happens in the spreading of the tactile within the seat materials or pedal platform. So we are upgrading the tactile installation placement/material to have more than one contact point, now applying direct routing to body regions as well. Now the tactile units energy is not being driven by one path.

The sensation and perception is greatly increased for the effect.
To me, it doesn't feel odd at all, now my whole right side feels the force better, it brings more efficiency for the detection of the effect. To the point for the senses it is amplified without actually being too highly amplified in one placement or impact region.

I find this works better than the alternative of amplifying/cranking a unit highly with volume (as many do) and only have one point of contact that may even have limited or poor isolation and makes much less point of contact to the body.

We could say one is like a hose sprayed on a body region or two at high force and the other is like lying submerged in a bath.

I think too many look too hard into "real life" scenario and things we just can't mimic, this is simulation and with simulation we need stimulation to the senses to connect them together and convince or trick the brain.


Moving paddles or a rig moving a few degrees is not producing g-forces yet what it does is greatly work with and combining with other senses to bring more complete or convincing immersion. Just take away audio on its own and you feel the lack of what it brings. Its like removing a primary instrument from a musical score or band.

Engine 6 Channel Vs 2
I personally want to separate engine/gear from the main units and place these as mono in nature on central channels for both seat and pedals. We can have engine, for example, going out over all 6 tactile but as it is a constant effect it can diminish the felt sensation of others. Also its not really needed or I feel the best approach. We want to feel the cars handling to use it as a tool to immerse us but also to combine with what we see, or are doing regards control or steering inputs. So I would place engine less valuable or less important but still high as an entertaining factor.

I have the BK Concert planned for engine role and combined with a TST unit for the seat. These will produce plenty of low end energy and detail for this main role. Although we can have other effects also use these units and work with the others if desired on an "effect" level.

I would test the Concert & TST in a specifically designed pedal section. A Section I also have to install dual TST and BK LFE. Yet I have plans and done early testing and belive a good working solution is possible. I will, likely will end up with the same in the pedals to match the tactile placed in the seat.

My own rig is moving at slow pace but I have new bits and components arriving every week or so. Some ebay purchases popped up that will be used in the rig but these delay then purchasing of materials needed to start the actual build. I now have most of my audio hardware (mixers / duplicator etc), want to experiment with iPad and audio-tactile along the way too. Very curious in what I can do to exploit and control better the low Hz in "Game Audio Tactile" to bring the best engine sensations. Again I have done experiments and testing already via EQ so know what is possible. iPad and the touchscreen/apps it has available seem ideal and bring powerful options with easy loading of presets.

I currently have but not all installed on my part dismantled test rig:
4x BK LFE (Front/Rear Stereo)
1x BK Concert (Sub Channel / Seat)
4x TST 429 (Dual Role)
1x TST 329 (Sub Channel Dual Role / Seat)

I want/need (potentially for final build)
1x BK Concert (Pedals)
1x TST 239 (Pedals)
1x iNuke DSP 3000
1x Inuke DSP 1000

The Pedal section is not the main focus, so I am seeking to start the new build and isolation.
I have at present 4x Inuke DSP amps that can be used to play around with different test configurations.

GS4 Body Regions
SSW brings you the ability to replicate a GS4 but with powerful and multiple tactile that can I believe exceed the felt motion of its servo paddles (depending on the level of tactile used). With tactile also we are not limited to just a seat area or fixed way to install or such operates.

We can cleverly apply custom effects that generate very satisfying sensation to the front/back axis for acceleration and deceleration g-force loads. Yet with a GS4 it is using the base of the seat as front and back of the seat as rear. Some effects may use individual paddles othes using all paddles to push forward into the body.

Under Heavy Braking Example:
GS4 Seat all 4 paddles pushing into the body to create a sense of force.

My own planned rig:
Let's look only at the low Hz high energy possibilities and incorporating multiple body zones discussed above. We can apply within Audacity how we want the effect to operate on the channels. Lets for this example place energy of the low frequency .wav used for 60% force ratio in pedals and 40% ratio in seat. Yet we can also have the CEN/SUB channels use slightly different .wav for additional sensation to the operation of the front and back stereo pairs when braking is applied. Some experimention is needed but we have lots of potential.


Now consider the felt sensation over the body with
2x BK LFE & 1 BK Concert operating altogether.

These outputting very high level of energy yet controlled and being applied to the pedal base section going into my feet, calves and lower legs. This level of energy easily travels right up the legs and into the lower torso.

Yet for me this is not enough, I want the same again with the pre-arranged 40% energy displacement also applied simultaneously to the seat, via my knees, buttocks, thighs, spine etc. Now I have combined energy and it is delivered into the body from different placements.

Which do you think may feel more eyebrow-raising?
The felt motion in the paddles pressing my body or this level of bass/tactie energy placed into specific body regions?

Nobody is taking tactile to this level, I don't expect few every will, yet it is where I am going and while some may see it as crazy. I know from on/off tests the direction and possibilities it may bring in a specially built rig.

If people rave about the GS4 product in the immersion it brings why is it not possible for us to use high end tactile with SSW effects (that work using the same telemetry and principles)? I believe with experimentation and creativity I can achieve some immersion advantages with tactile that cant be delivered with motion. Yet I prefer tactile to being constantly moved around and have a comfortable seat. As most are telling you, with motion, it only needs enough to fool the senses but my view is multibody zone tactile won't move the body but it will let the body detect and feel greater immersion than traditional tactile installations offer. It potentially can deliver greater detailing and have advantageous over say a 2dof motion will. Really though each will be different and some may prefer one to the other just as you find much to debate in different motion solutions.

You question whether to get a BK LFE or BK Concert, I need to do more testing to give a better response to how I feel each varies. They both can go crazy low but based on two other owners reports I have and what BK themselves say, I think the Concert is better suited to give more detail over a wider Hz range. Yet I believe the BK Advance will be better in the 60/70Hz up region than even the BK Concert. Yet of course, the BK Advance falls quite short of the biggest units abilities below 20Hz. So potentially BK Advance brings a good all-round performance and is a great step up from the Mini models.

BK LFE with the current testing I am doing in SSW effects creation. It loses a great deal of detail compared to say a TST with the higher Hz. It really is showing how we need specific Hz used in effects for specific units as different units have their own characters and performance differences.
I cant run with the same "V" and "ABCDE" options for each unit. Both the "volume/gain" and "Hz" being used with the effects .wav signature is crucial to getting the best feeling or sensation out of each model.

So a BK LFE brings a great low end, perhaps the best but it needs in my view something to help with the mid/upper bass Hz. That is why 6 years ago I decided on duplicating and using a "Dual Role" unit idea. Any single unit option brings its own advantages or disadvantages. No single unit brings the best potential. The BK Advance seems very balanced in doing both quite well yet I will personally always prefer a TST for mid/high bass detail and speed even though it needs its own tuning and control.

With effects creation and say a Dual Role installation we can use iNuke DSP to ensure each unit performs well. We can use the crossover features to limit the BK to lower the output or not output higher Hz *over 50Hz" and use the TST to limit its lower Hz output to approx 40Hz. Really the principle is the same as a sat/sub speaker combination but in tactile.
 
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Piston Pang is excessive gain/amplitude/volume from specific low Hz.
We can control this with Parametric EQ to reduce or slice the energy of specific culprit Hz on the output of the unit. iNuke DSP is a method we use on the relevant amps.

BK Advance will have issues under 20Hz
BK Mini seems to have issues under 35Hz

BK LFE can also bottom but we can get a rather crazy level of energy/volume and avoid it happening.
Again some tuning or tweaking via PEQ is possible.

I recommend buying one LFE or Concert unit to form your own tests to the BK Advance. This will help you determine what to go for regards the rig configuration. Its possible to use a single larger unit combined with stereo units to bring additional low- end bump emphasis, engine etc like a subwoofer. We just place .wav in the effects we want the bigger unit to also operate with.

Stereo brings much more cost and installation headaches.
You could combine a TST/BKA/LFE to operate on the seat and have LFE operate from underneath the base of the seat also to make contact with extensions to under the knees. If you fancy playing around with that.

Pedals, I think just test some ideas like you are considering.
Having the main TST energy go into the pedals as the primary point of contact worked well for me.
The BK Advance will easily have its energy go all through the pedal platform and into the pedals too.
I would try the BK more in below the foot region, however.

DSP can bring more control for the output and control of each unit.
This you can experiment with or ask about. It should let you help tune out or reduce the pinging/ringing in pedal stems. Although I would try some of the materials you have to see if a small cutting applied kills this without ruining the felt vibration
 
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