BUILD LOG: Racing + Flying VR Rig

Recommended exciter is:
Dayton Audio DAEX32EP-4 Thruster
32mm Exciter Speaker 40W 4 Ohm



This cable looks decent but shop around on ebay or other musical equipment stores.

I did get some progress with the isolators, looked at several springs and different compounds of isolators. Its not been easy finding a good match in fit/stiffness.

Here are two options, a new spring combo compared to a sandwiched isolator. Other vibration/sound-deadening materials will be added with whatever options works out best.

It's getting a good combination that fits well and also can work better than a standard or single solution.



To mount these better would need a wider profile
Something like 80mm drilled in the center.

Still some options I want to look at but my focus is on my own build at present.

Sounds good on the preferred exciters, those are the same ones I linked, so I'm on the right track. Regarding your recommendation to search eBay for the Dual Male XLR to 3.5mm cable, I had posted the below which seemed to be the right one? I know absolutely nothing about audio though, so I will wait to order until it's confirmed to be the right one.


The new isolators look great, and glad to hear you're focusing on your own rig build. Looking forward to continuing to follow along with your progress!
 

Mr Latte

Premium
3,436
2,063
I think I began experimenting with the exciters @ April 2019 so the general discussion thread has plenty of info on the early tests did with them. They will surprise you with the power they have in the 40Hz range when directly mounted to the seat. It is however the best way to place specific effects to body zones and highlight stereo sensations in a seat.

Personally, I don't like the messy cables, so Id recommend drilling the seat and routing the cables on the inside as much more professional looking and the cables exit out the bottom of the seat. The alternative is to use 8020 profile extensions up the back of the seat and these then drilled to the seat and you can hide the cables in the profile.

Don't fret on the cables, the ones RC or myself linked are fine.

Soundcard - Amp (Purchase the length you need)
3.5mm Male - Dual XLR Male

Each cable supports 2 channels
If buying exciters then get cables now or later.

Isolators.
The spring option shown I think is best so far, I have another manufacturer/supplier I want to look into options they have but they don't normally sell to retail or in small quantities. Price is also a factor and the current option shown may work out best. I will order another similar size and compare/test 4 on a flat surface with a large BK. Might take a few weeks though.....
 
Last edited:
Definitely planning to drill into the seat and run the wires internally with some grommets around the holes to keep the cabling/holes neat as well. I saw someone's thread here at RD that did it on the same seat as mine and it looks great -- I plan to replicate that.
 
Alright, this 6FT Mogami Y cable Aux Audio 3.5mm Stereo Male to Neutrik Dual XLR-Male LR has arrived. It's the right one, correct?

BHCFJj8.jpg
h1E0DJg.jpg
fOuIpoi.jpg
 

Mr Latte

Premium
3,436
2,063
I installed 6 dayton units + 2 bigger shakers and can´t recommend enough drilling and good routing for cables, otherwise it could ruin a decent rig asthetics and trigger OCD.

Very much agreed.
There are several ways around that too, from drilling or using cable braiding/wrap.
Those are easily obtained in various places.

For my own build, one thing I had considered long ago was to use an AV wall bracket. Have it placed just behind or beneath the seat. So only a short cable run from the exciter units and then using banana plugs to connect up to 8 units.


Thin cable is all that is needed and using SpeakON plugs for the exciters is maybe excessive.
This is tidy and compact.


Many different plates are available.

For coming out of the AV plate, use an 8-pole speaker cable as that's only a single cable going back to the amps, not several pairs of cables. This approach offers a nice installation but also, it's easy to disconnect or replace any exciter units from the AV plate.

At the same time look a bit more stylish.
 
Last edited:
It will be a little unnerving drilling into the new Sparco seat, but I 100% intend to specifically because of how much better/neater it looks.

@Mr Latte that little AV plate is a great idea, I could hide that under the seat somewhere easily and it would make cable management back to the amps so much easier. Appreciate the tip!
 
It will be a little unnerving drilling into the new Sparco seat, but I 100% intend to specifically because of how much better/neater it looks.

@Mr Latte that little AV plate is a great idea, I could hide that under the seat somewhere easily and it would make cable management back to the amps so much easier. Appreciate the tip!
Also consider by drilling you are reinforcing the link between the seat and shaker, so effects would transmit better
 
Also consider by drilling you are reinforcing the link between the seat and shaker, so effects would transmit better

Yes, for sure --- the BK Concert was always going to be drilled into the bottom of the seat, or at least since the day I started this thread. That is definitely the optimal mounting solution for the reasons you mention.

I was more speaking to being nervous about drilling the holes for the wires on the exciters, like this guy did brilliantly:

79d957c3-d325-4598-ac92-228cab026daa-jpeg.372198
9366ee7b-4af1-406c-b848-34bf91a0e881-jpeg.372200


I will still stick the exciters on with some 3M tape (so no benefit of an enhanced mounting), but but will drill for the wires to be routed internally.
 
Last edited:
Yes, for sure --- the BK Concert was always going to be drilled into the bottom of the seat, or at least since the day I started this thread. That is definitely the optimal mounting solution for the reasons you mention.

I was more speaking to being nervous about drilling the holes for the wires on the exciters, like this guy did brilliantly:

79d957c3-d325-4598-ac92-228cab026daa-jpeg.372198
9366ee7b-4af1-406c-b848-34bf91a0e881-jpeg.372200


I will still stick the exciters on with some 3M tape (so no benefit of an enhanced mounting), but but will drill for the wires to be routed internally.
Very interesting solution, let me find that thread.
I´m giving some thoughts how to attached the daytons to the seat with some kind of aluminium "U" bracket. Then using the small center with a bolt. But I´m worried that method could increase the overall noise of the rig.
 
Very interesting solution, let me find that thread.
I´m giving some thoughts how to attached the daytons to the seat with some kind of aluminium "U" bracket. Then using the small center with a bolt. But I´m worried that method could increase the overall noise of the rig.


:thumbsup:
 
Would this soundcard work for the NX3000D? I can get a pretty good deal on a used one, I’ve been keeping an eye out for X3’s at @Mr Latte ’s recommendation, but no luck yet.

 
Would this soundcard work for the NX3000D? I can get a pretty good deal on a used one, I’ve been keeping an eye out for X3’s at @Mr Latte ’s recommendation, but no luck yet.

I would rather spend into good shakers/exciters, unless I´m much mistaken from reading this forum, the soundcard is not a key element of a tactile rig.
In fact I´m just buying a 7.1 external $20 card to put under the bucket seat so I get rid of a million of cables going from the seat to the computer.
 
I would rather spend into good shakers/exciters, unless I´m much mistaken from reading this forum, the soundcard is not a key element of a tactile rig.
In fact I´m just buying a 7.1 external $20 card to put under the bucket seat so I get rid of a million of cables going from the seat to the computer.

I've gone back and forth on whether a "better" soundcard is worth it or not, but have never seen anyone definitively do an A/B test to say whether it's warranted or not. Have only seen @Mr Latte say "system is only as good as it's weakest link", but I don't know that he's tested cheaper USB cards side by side vs his recommended Soundblaster X3.

Like you, I'd very much like to buy a $30 card instead of a $100 card (and invest the difference elsewhere), but I don't want to let a $70 delta get in the way of maximizing the $1100 investment I've already made on the BK CT's, NX3000D and premium cables/connectors....
 
Last edited:

Mr Latte

Premium
3,436
2,063
Well firstly, you want a soundcard that has 7.1 outputs
Not all are colored but typically Green/Black/Grey/Orange (4x3.5mm) jacks.

The X3 is a great card, I get satisfaction from its styling too and being USB its usage for other purposes if needed can be enjoyed. 7.1 or Virtual 7.1

Though to be fair, being confident it offers quality performance was key, its place is deserved when matching with other quality components in my view.

Most will buy cheaply as they don't really care...

For me, the other factor was as a newish card driver and support were not a problem like with some older cards I tried. Windows loading to be presented with some Dolby error stuff with U7 (no thanks Asus).

The cards I used are cheap £20 card (lower dB output but seemed fine)
Creative Onboard Audio / Asus DGX / Asus U5 / Asus U7 / Sound Blaster Omni

The X3 is my fave card from those options, but its not hard to also enjoy it for primary audio on the PC or other devices when not used for tactile.

Some places do go deep into soundcard reviews but the focus is never on low bass usage.
More on things like SINAD (Signal to Noise and Distortion).

Not all cards are close to being equal but will average joe with cheapo tactile and amp notice. Honestly hardly likely or much interest to them.

Get what makes you content.
 
Last edited:
Well firstly, you want a soundcard that has 7.1 outputs
Not all are colored but typically Green/Black/Grey/Orange (4x3.5mm) jacks.

The X3 is a great card, I get satisfaction from its styling too and being USB its usage for other purposes if needed can be enjoyed. 7.1 or Virtual 7.1

Though to be fair, being confident it offers quality performance was key, its place is deserved when matching with other quality components in my view.

Most will buy cheaply as they don't really care...

For me, the other factor was as a newish card driver and support were not a problem like with some older cards I tried. Windows loading to be presented with some Dolby error stuff with U7 (no thanks Asus).

The cards I used are cheap £20 card (lower dB output but seemed fine)
Creative Onboard Audio / Asus DGX / Asus U5 / Asus U7 / Sound Blaster Omni

The X3 is my fave card from those options, but its not hard to also enjoy it for primary audio on the PC or other devices when not used for tactile.

Some places do go deep into soundcard reviews but the focus is never on low bass usage.
More on things like SINAD (Signal to Noise and Distortion).

Not all cards are close to being equal but will average joe with cheapo tactile and amp notice. Honestly hardly likely or much interest to them.

Get what makes you content.

Right. The conversation spurred from me asking if the G6 (which I've read multiple places is preffered to the X3) would also work for this application. Recall that I don't even know or understand what 5.1 or 7.1 means, haha. It is USC and says it is 7.1, but I don't see the 4 jacks on it.

I asked about the G6 because I think I might be able to get it for around $75.

 
Last edited:

blekenbleu

Premium
686
356
Recall that I don't even know or understand what 5.1 or 7.1 means, haha. It is USC and says it is 7.1, but I don't see the 4 jacks on it.
5.1 means left + center + right + right rear + left rear + subwoofer,
where the .1 is motivated by subwoofers being nominally 20-200Hz, while other channels are 20-20,000Hz.
For driving amplifiers, G6 would indeed need at least 4 TRS jacks. If that card actually implements 5.1 or 7.1,
it would only be via e.g. optical out with Dolby-licensed software (not SimHub).
Creative may also implement some optional fake surround for headphones...

Getting low frequencies out of a sound card (or indeed any audio gear) requires either large and pricey capacitors or careful DC balancing of directly coupled output circuitry. For someone to recommend a sound card for such an application without actual experience involves some combination of naïve optimism and deficient integrity.
 
Last edited:

Mr Latte

Premium
3,436
2,063
G6 is more of a combo unit suited for console owners, being a soundcard headphone amp and DAC. It offers virtual 7.1 (gives a surround like sound over 2 channel stereo)

You want a soundcard with 4x output jacks for offering up to 8 channels.
Spend time and read the cable guide on the first page if you are so unsure about audio
 
Last edited:

Mr Latte

Premium
3,436
2,063
Its simple, you state a price you want to pay and then someone will recommend you a card that is suitable. The X3 may be cheaper direct from Soundblaster website as they sometimes do offers but I got two of mine cheap on ebay for not much more than lesser cards.
 
Top