DiRT Rally Beginner in Monaco

[MHOLL]

Being totally green, I signed up for a Monaco championship (on another site) with the Kadett because that sounded like the oldest car I heard the name of and I thought old means easy. Of course I am in the suck because RWD is hard to drive and all that. My goal now is that it is OK to be last but at least not with a huge difference.

Most importantly I am in the suck because despite having watched the tutorial and many training vids and understanding the concepts, the turns come so fast one after the other that juggling all that slides and handbrakes seems impossible, it seems I don't have so fast reaction times. Currently I try braking track style i.e. brake early and go slow through turns no slide, yet I find myself in the woods with a leaking radiator every time by brain zones out for two seconds or so. Rallying is apparently fast, it is not like the long straight on Silverstone Int where you can relax for a few seconds because nothing is happening!

I have heard setting pace notes to late helps, as you don't have to think in advance but when he says right two you can pretty much immediately start sliding. True?

Another issue is things being too narrow! I even crash in straights if my left hand is heavier on the wheel than the right. I use either dash cam or internal views with minimal FOV, for realism on a 27 inch, but the interal view seems to be bumpy maybe dash is better.

I will also try the following things:

- external view to battle that narrowness

- forward brake balance and loose differential for controlling the car's ass

- 70 brake saturation for not locking

- wheel at 270 as codemasters recommended

- someone recommended an FFB with everything 100 except wheel friction 0, will try

- any other ideas?

- especially how NOT to fall into the deep Monaco chasms that instantly total your car and championship over?

 

[Kytt]

For starters try different number for the wheel. I think 270 is way too small and makes cars twitch. Try 360 or 540

 

[Lexrax]

For starters try different number for the wheel. I think 270 is way too small and makes cars twitch. Try 360 or 540

360 is still twitchy , unless he does not move the wheel fast. I use 380 myself and i still have problems when i am agressively turning the wheel.

Being totally green, I signed up for a Monaco championship (on another site) with the Kadett because that sounded like the oldest car I heard the name of and I thought old means easy. Of course I am in the suck because RWD is hard to drive and all that.

The 1970`s RWD Cars are the hardest to master, as well as the ones from the Group B RWD class. You have to balance/feather the throttle and wheel inputs and speed and read the conditions of the road and what the car is going or about to do. How i learn't to drive a RWD car in game. When approaching a hair pin , i would take my foot of the throttle and apply brake and steer around the corner and then apply throttle after car was at least 3/4 of the way through the corner.

"SLOW IN, FAST OUT "

The easiest car in the game for the FWD Cars is the 1960`s Mini. The easiest car in the 4WD is the 2001 Subaru Impreza and its a very forgiving car.

I have heard setting pace notes to late helps, as you don't have to think in advance but when he says right two you can pretty much immediately start sliding. True?
- especially how NOT to fall into the deep Monaco chasms that instantly total your car and championship over?

With regards to pace notes " ALWAYS LISTEN TO THE CO-DRIVER " If anything you want to set pace notes to NORMAL or EARLY, NOT LATE, so you can visualize whats coming next in your head on the stage, corner wise. So you can set your speed and correct gear and what direction the car will be going in.

If in doubt or you need me to show you things, I stream on Twitch with Wheel/Pedals/Speed onscreen overlays showing people how much throttle/brake/wheel/speed is being used. Info in my RaceDepartment Profile.

Hope this helps.

 

[MHOLL]

The easiest car in the game for the FWD Cars is the 1960`s Mini. The easiest car in the 4WD is the 2001 Subaru Impreza and its a very forgiving car.

I know but I am already signed up for the Kadett I practiced a lot yesterday, and found that maybe I have too slow reaction times, I start a slide and it simply happens too fast, 3 seconds and I am in the bushes, and 3 econds are not enough for me to decide if I need more throttle for a sharper turn in (yeah, RWDs are weird on gravel, they oversteer on throttle WTF...) or less throttle for a wider arc, or correct with the wheel, simply 2-3 seconds are not enough for me to decide if my car is on a good trajectory or not. Tried external view yesterday and did not help.

As for early or normal notes, I don't get the direction part... the roads are ****ing narrow. I cannot see much of racing line here like on a track, I mostly just try to stay on the road, trying to go on the left or right edge seems impossible at my beginner skillset, just on the road is challenge enough. For speed and shift, I just use 2, I don't yet dare to go higher, I just keep it in 2.

I read that for the RWD cars one needs to brake before corners and then just use the wheel to put them into a slide. OK but a slide on these narrow roads? There is little room for correction... seems it requires lightnight reflex, least judging from the videos...

 

[Lexrax]

As for early or normal notes, I don't get the direction part... the roads are ****ing narrow. I cannot see much of racing line here like on a track, I mostly just try to stay on the road, trying to go on the left or right edge seems impossible at my beginner skillset, just on the road is challenge enough. For speed and shift, I just use 2, I don't yet dare to go higher, I just keep it in 2.

Goto http://blog.codemasters.com/dirt/04/co-driver-calls-explained/ as this can better explain it, in more detail and it is easier to understand than i can ever explain.

Go to the above link to read a detailed explanation by proper Rally co-driver Paul Coleman , who is lead Dev for Dirt Rally in Codemasters.

 

[MHOLL]

Fell into a chasm and died in the second section in Monaco. Classic oversteer because RWD, correct, oversteer in the other direction, the previous 100 times it made me hit a wall, now there was no wall but chasm, car totaled and championship over. Sounds like you need lightning reflexes for this.

 

[karik134]

If it's to any help here's my driving on Route de Turini(midday+sunny) with 1970s Lancia Stratos using 900degree rotation https://www.twitch.tv/videos/136496563, I didn't use handbrake. I Locked tires at least couple times under braking but I was able to recover from them without crashing with minimal time loss (at time 1:45 and 5:00 on that video).

If u use paddles to shift then put rotation to 540 or lower.

U have to do main braking on straight road bit before the turn. If there ins't much straight road before the hairpin then u have do braking on lower input over longer distance. When u have wheel turned it's easier to lock tires under heavy braking, that's why it has to be performed carefully.

Don't mess with brake saturation %, just keep it at 100% and try changing brake bias like 1click or more towards rear, if that doesn't work well then put brake bias to default and reduce brake power from advanced setup(for brakes). If u lock the tires u need to quickly reduce brake input(or release brake all together) and after tires start turning begin to brake again carefully.
Another option is to leave brake bias&power as they are on default and just start the braking like 10-15metres /30-50feet earlier so u have that extra road/time to recover from tire lock-up.

Not using handbrake is much safer way to take hairpins, in that video I take them still around 20mph.
If u can't get the car to oversteer just by using wheel then just continue driving on front tire grip around hairpins.

 

[Rob Every]

Don't be too hard on yourself.

In my opinion Monte is the hardest event to be quick on.

For numerous reasons, little of which are the fault of the driver.

More often than not the calls do not match the actual tightness in Monte, so a 4 left is rarely that as it is lined with a wall outside and there is a 5 right afterwards meaning you need to be left side.

Plus the ice there is utterly random, in some places there is none, in others there is glass. This is all done to make it unpredictable and easier to crash.

Plus you are always on the wrong tyres unless it is dry.

My advice is simply to repeat the stages endless times until you know where the bad notes are, the patches of ice and learn the snowy areas, that is where you make your time in Monte.

it's not about setup, speed or ability it's about knowing the stage as it always has been with Dirt Rally.

 

[Lexrax]

Don't be too hard on yourself.

With time comes experience , even the seasoned players get caught out.

My advice is simply to repeat the stages endless times until you know where the bad notes are, the patches of ice and learn the snowy areas, that is where you make your time in Monte.
it's not about setup, speed or ability it's about knowing the stage as it always has been with Dirt Rally.

Repeating the stage can be problematic as your likely to get stage fatigue and let errors slip in. On the flip side , you can learn what not to do and what pace notes are wrong , etc.
A Good setup does help in my experience as you will better handle the car and be more aware of where it, the car, is going to try and kill you !! (Left 4 Slippy , In my case). The ice is pretty non standard, can be black ice or normal ice, you wont know until you run the stage to learn it.

 

[dgeesio]

RWD set differential to strongest.try 540 degrees.on your wheel.