Arduino Leonardo wheel.

Have got an idea to move backwards the wheel base itself. This will alow to place the monitor way much closer then conventionally. For that the following is made:

 
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Thanks Jan!

Haven't tested it there. So don't know actually.
One note about Asetto Corsa. After the EMC is configed, and FFB profile is set in game, have got to reboot the game once again. And do that every time you'll change the FFB settings in a game. )
 
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P.S. EMC works "plug&play" with Iracing. Also tested with RaceOn7. Fine. Project cars have got some issue on just determing the wheel axis, but FFB is also "plug&play".

Figured out that, if the pulley be placed on the steering column shaft, just beyond the wheel itself, the FFB DIY wheel build, becomes a lot easier thing to be made. The connection with encoder then can go like this.


For now, as it have got to be checked with separate motor base, and be connected with column by means of cardan shaft, some welding works required, to make the know how coupler, fot it.
 
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There were also Forse Linearity test, with wheel check, for 'dat build.
 

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currently I'm also building a diy wheel. Great inspiration ... very thanks!
but I need to work with Rfactor2.
I use Leonardo, 3x BTS7960B, Omron encoder, motor ZY 1020, PS 12V ca. 80A
I do not want to use the belt......
 
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That should be ok with Rfactor also, guess so.

Don't know how it''ll be if DD, but topic starter is confident with the result with DD from kind of even less powered motor.
https://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/cousin-of-osw-open-sim-wheel.10915/#post-143884
Will be great experience to see the next build of DD with this motors.

Jan, have you seen also the BS Simulator build? Belt driven but can be very informative.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCR8NaEDjmPF2lXAOy9Xj2YQ

I power mine also from 12V and 12.5A. But the voltage and coils resistance is a point when stalled. That's the factor that gives the stall current amps for the driver. MY1025, is ~0,28ohms and with 12V thats quite allright for the two drivers in parallel to be cool. That'll be only 43A of stall current there. If with 24v - 85A. (A=V/R)

But the motor gets warm up any way. So also take a note on it's cooling. The best option is like 'dat.
 
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Yeah, everybody should know him) Cool.

Figured out the joint without welding. Huh. Left is to the base shaft, and right to cardan. Should make minor outer size reduction of the nut. Outer is 13mm, should be 12mm.
 
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