Anyone use a remote power switch for their Power Supply?

I bought this from amazon, works well for $30, allows me to spread the power over various sockets in the room but switch them all on while seated in the rig: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082TXMZJS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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I got Remotes by HBN with the same ratings just with a single vs. double plugs. I'm using them for my computer/amps on one circuit and the base station in the opposite corner of the room on another.

However, I had one connected to my massive subwoofer and it died after just a couple uses. Apparently the inrush current for that 4,000W peak capacity built in amp was too much for it.
 
I got Remotes by HBN with the same ratings just with a single vs. double plugs. I'm using them for my computer/amps on one circuit and the base station in the opposite corner of the room on another.

However, I had one connected to my massive subwoofer and it died after just a couple uses. Apparently the inrush current for that 4,000W peak capacity built in amp was too much for it.
I haven't had any issues with mine so far, they power everything, wheel, PC , screens, GS5 seat, three amps, VR headset, fans, lights
 
I would think that would be ok. I have my SC2 Pro on switched power strip. I switch off both power supplies when not in use.
My idea is I want to have this switch on the front of my rig (maybe to the left of the wheel or something) but then leave the rear power switch on the SC2 Pro in the ON position. then just use this additional PSU switch as the on/off button.
 
My idea is I want to have this switch on the front of my rig (maybe to the left of the wheel or something) but then leave the rear power switch on the SC2 Pro in the ON position. then just use this additional PSU switch as the on/off button.
That should work fine.

My power strip is mounted below/beside my seat in my rig. It’s kind of like a simulated fuse panel. I also turn my cooling fan on/off there. I can easily reach while driving.
 
I have finally decided to plug my cockpit to a different power strip, with the idea of demanding less power from the same strip where I have my computer, monitor, AV receiver, a lamp, etc. Since I have a power strip on my floor in front of my cockpit, I will leave it permanently plugged into it.

Before, I had a female connector on the back of my cockpit and a power cable under my desk. The problems are that I don't like the idea of connecting and disconnecting the cable so frequently, which could end up damaging the connectors, and also because a cable crossing the floor of my room is always an obstacle.

Now, with a fixed cable to the power strip, I need a way to switch it on a off. The easiest way would be that kind of power connectors that include a switch on it. However, the idea of getting down to the floor to reach the power button is not very appealing.

Then I remembered this thread. So I have ordered this model with a remote controller. However, I am still not very sure if I will finally use it for my cockpit. The reason is safety. My power strip is quite good and has electric protection, but plugging all the stuff I have in my cockpit this kind of device... I don't know if it's advisable. Also, what if the radio-frequency fails and the switch automatically turns my cockpit on while I'm not at home and stays on for hours or days?

Another option I am considering is installing a manual power switch on the back of my cockpit. I have ordered this model. That would be and easy and safe alternative.
 
I was not comfortable with the remote switches I saw online as most seemed like poor quality and I use a lot of power for motion, gseat, fans, etc.

But so found a simple solution. An industrial high quality Tripplite power strip with a built in remote on/off switch:
Tripplite Isobar

Power strip is way down in the rig floor, and the on/off switch is mounted up top near the wheelbase emergency cutoff (in reach even if I am full strapped in by the 6 point harness)
 
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I was not comfortable with the remote switches I saw online as most seemed like poor quality and I use a lot of power for motion, gseat, fans, etc.

But so found a simple solution. An industrial high quality Tripplite power strip with a built in remote on/off switch:
Tripplite Isobar

Power strip is way down in the rig floor, and the on/off switch is mounted up top near the wheelbase emergency cutoff (in reach even if I am full strapped in by the 6 point harness)
May look into that Tripplite.

After starting this thread I have split my rig between two outlets.

1) Necessary components(wheelbase, monitors, usb hubs, lights) into a powered strip via Amazon Alexa outlet(allowing me to activate on/off with my voice). Working super well so far.

2) “Fun” stuff into a separate strip and outlet. Things like D-Box, transducer amps, wind, etc… This way I can race at night without the noisier components being on, and can activate all with a simple switch when I do want the fun stuff separate from the components in outlet 1. I am using the same remote for this as I linked in my OP(not Alexa). Works well, but I do concern about such expensive gear possibly having any issues with it.

So far so good though, so I may just be paranoid. But that Tripplite possibly could put my mind at ease.
 
May look into that Tripplite.

After starting this thread I have split my rig between two outlets.

1) Necessary components(wheelbase, monitors, usb hubs, lights) into a powered strip via Amazon Alexa outlet(allowing me to activate on/off with my voice). Working super well so far.

2) “Fun” stuff into a separate strip and outlet. Things like D-Box, transducer amps, wind, etc… This way I can race at night without the noisier components being on, and can activate all with a simple switch when I do want the fun stuff separate from the components in outlet 1. I am using the same remote for this as I linked in my OP(not Alexa). Works well, but I do concern about such expensive gear possibly having any issues with it.

So far so good though, so I may just be paranoid. But that Tripplite possibly could put my mind at ease.
Mine is split similarly, with the added element that the two power strips are on different circuits in the house.

For me: computer, monitor, amps, gseat and Gbelt on one circuit; everything else on the rig is on another circuit (dbox, fans, wheelbase, gauges, etc).

Note that the only reason gseat and Gbelt are on the same circuit as the PC is that unlike everything else, there was no room on the rig for the control boxes. Therefore, they stay next the the PC plugged into the same power strip.
 
I think this thread inspired me to look into how I can make the process of turning on my PC and rig simpler and quicker and preferably remotely. I was getting bored of having to turn on the power strip from the wall, turn on the PC, get into the rig, wait for the PC to boot, and login (first world problem).

I decided to go down the route of getting a smart power strip that integrates with Apple Homekit, and changing the boot process for the PC to enable Wake on LAN.

Then, using Apple Shortcuts I've set up a simple workflow to turn on the power to my the Wheelbase etc, Neoleaf lights, and the PC and then Send the Wake On Lan command from a simple App.

Now I can turn it all own from downstairs and by the time I get to the room it's all ready for me to log in and start.

I realise I could go a step further and auto login to the PC but that seems a step too far.

It was a fun little project for me.

This is the smart strip I used. Each socket is addressable individually.
 
I use a master slave power strip: when I power on the PC the power strip detects it and switches on the rest of my equipment. The reverse is also true: when the PC is powered off the is rest is powered off too. Very handy.
I use the same thing, but since my PC is always on due to running security suite, the sensing socket is my monitor. PC is running and whenever I turn my monitor on, the rest of sockets are energized and everything wakes up.
 

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