F1 2011 Anti-Roll bar settings

[dazzadp]

Can anyone help me with setting Anti-Roll Bar settings.

What are the pro's of having a stiffer Front?

What are the con's of having a stiffer Front?

What are the pro's of having a stiffer Rear?

What are the con's of having a stiffer Rear?

Or if there is a link to the pro's and con's of all the set-up options would be great.

Also what's the best starting point to start the set-up:

Put both to 11 and reduce? or
Put both to 1 and increase? or
Start on 6 (default) and tweak from there?

Thanx

Thanx

 

[Mark Reynolds]

I found they can make a difference primarily to how the tyres wear, and indeed balancing they tyre wear front to rear.

 

[Akira Kain]

Guys, setup testing is def compromised with assists on.
The above tech explanation does very well. I would poss add a dummies perspective like this.

You need to consider springs and ARBs together a a little bit as they work together. EG running really soft springs and really stiff roll bars shouldn't work that well.
In the real world when things are stiff the response is faster but maximum steady state grip is less and tyre wear is greater.
In-game there is only a representation of physics and its not perfect. EG the 11/11 bug makes it grippier.

The pit menu explanation in-game is actuially pretty good too. It talks the talk correctly however the game does not in all senses walk the walk.

Different guys go fast with very different settings. One key in my view is to work out whether you prefer oversteer or understeer.
For example I prefer understeer. I set the front ARB significantly softer than rear and the front wing less than rear. Springs I will leave out at as game physics don't replicate real physics enough for it to make sense but my max is 9.
The understeering car will have a feel that its rotating axis is somewhere near your seat. An oversteering car will have a feel that its rotating axis is somewhere near your feet. Personally I like understeer as I don't want the front end making promises the rear end can't keep. Once turned in I can nail it and have good exit speed. With an oversteering car one needs to feather throttle or correct oversteer during exit more often.
In real life you would soften rear springs for more accelleration but in-game it doesn't work.

Once you find a spring and ARB setting that works well for you it will often transfer to different tracks pretty well so can be your "default setting" to start with.
I would ignore any setups offered that feature 11/11 in springs or ARBs because who knows if anything else in that particular setup is helping get silly grip and laps.

I've rambled a bit.

There is an awesome guide called
"Racer Alex's advanced Formula 1 setup guide" just google it.
however remember that not all things real will work in this game.

Very good post dude, coudlnt have said it better myself, i been doing setups now for years on CAR sims, and i know my theory and what does what on a car and what to change if you make a change elsewjere, however on this game, all that KNOWLEDGE might as well be a beginers guide to farting.. the physics in this game are just stupd! i hope someone like Turn 10 can take on an F1 Licence, as CM are muppets, they did a good job on the looks n the sounds, but this is F1 not FORZA or GT5, every thousandth of a sec is importatn here, and it seems no matter how much of a purist you wanna be, when it comes to onlione league racing, 11/11's is still the way to go? what a load of shite... even running less agressive camber does no real effect to tyre ware, you want best tyre ware saving ability dial down fule load, nonly thing i noticed gives me LAPS more tyres, camber does jack! i can go 5 laps more on scrubed tyres is i run on LEAN. i can burn a set of primes on KOREA in 5laps! on RICH!

but your post made me alugh and nod my ehad in total agreement. well done sir

 

[David O'Reilly]

Very good post dude, coudlnt have said it better myself, i been doing setups now for years on CAR sims, and i know my theory and what does what on a car and what to change if you make a change elsewjere, however on this game, all that KNOWLEDGE might as well be a beginers guide to farting.. the physics in this game are just stupd! i hope someone like Turn 10 can take on an F1 Licence, as CM are muppets, they did a good job on the looks n the sounds, but this is F1 not FORZA or GT5, every thousandth of a sec is importatn here, and it seems no matter how much of a purist you wanna be, when it comes to onlione league racing, 11/11's is still the way to go? what a load of shite... even running less agressive camber does no real effect to tyre ware, you want best tyre ware saving ability dial down fule load, nonly thing i noticed gives me LAPS more tyres, camber does jack! i can go 5 laps more on scrubed tyres is i run on LEAN. i can burn a set of primes on KOREA in 5laps! on RICH!

but your post made me alugh and nod my ehad in total agreement. well done sir

Thanks buddy!
Some of what I said in my post has been fixed by patch 2. Now I believe that softer springs actually do what they should and some of my rear spring settings are as low as 5 now.
Re fuel and tyres i agree that mix 1 (lean) helps manage worn tyres more, my (admittedly limited) testing however indicates that mix does not impact actual wear. I did 5 laps on fresh tyres on mix 1 and mix 3 then returned to the pits. displayed wear on tyre menu was identical!
Poss need to do a race stint and monitor wear (can only use colour though) as wear in practice may be scripted. In fact I will, we are at Spa this week.
On th ewhole for me the game paost patch 2 has been good

 

[Steve Greenwood]

I just asked this question on another site (no offence) and got some interesting feedback http://www.race2play.com/homepage/show_posts/23763
I've been doing various tests to try to find if the game has a "trigger" for tyre wear but not found one yet. Mind you, there's loads that doesn't make sense as far as the set ups in game are concerned.

 

[Steve Greenwood]

Interestingly I have followed Davids excellent Advanced Drivers Guide and have arrived at the same conclusions as he suggests above, that is front spring 8/9 rears 5/7 and ARB's between 3/9. But we must always remember there is no right or wrong, simply what suits our own driving style, there is after all very little time to be found (in real terms) with set-up adjustments, assuming you haven't got a totally ridiculous one of course. Looking at Alex set-up guide the perameters of the bars are typically as follows;
front ARB 100 N/mm (1 in game) to 200N/mm (11) and rear ARB 50N/mm (1) to 130N/mm (11) so a set up 1-11 would be front 100N/mm and rear 130N/mm. As he states you would normally be looking for a stiffer front than rear ARB to achieve this you would have to increase the front to 5 in game or reduce the rear to 10. Now if anyone is any more the wiser PLEASE pm me and let me in on the secret!