Another Try

They sent me an offer for 3 months for the price of 1 so I thought lets try iRacing again. It has been a year since I last raced it but wanted to try the RUF out so thought why not.
Now I do like the RUF but I have the same old feeling of not being able to tell when the back end is going to break loose on me, I always had this issue with iRacing.
Was wondering if anyone out there would care to look over my wheel settings so I can maybe dial them in a bit more.

I set up a profile for iRacing
Steering Wheel Axis 33%
Brake and Accelerator 67%

G25 with standard pedals
900 rotation
Centre spring checked and at 0%
everything else at 0%
Allow game to adjust settings checked

In game strength is at 10 with other sliders at 0
900 rotation
 
You might want too try higher in-game FFB settings. I drive the RUF Track and have a Fanatec Forza wheel, with the FFB set to 15 (that's about as high as I can go at most tracks without clipping). It makes the wheel heavy, but I can feel what the car is doing a lot better.

That said, I don't know if the G25 can support an in-game FFB set that high, but you may want to play around with it, just to see.
 
Put all of the sensitivity stuff at 50%, FFB in profiler at 100%.

In-game, FFB depends on the car, fine-tune to your liking but try to avoid spiking (the little screen on the top right will show green when you steer and may light up red when your wheel spikes, dial back FFB in-game if it does too much)

Also put the Linear Force at 13.4%, at least that's it on my G27, should be the same on the G25.
 
Ok so I deleted that profile I had in the Logitech setup and put in the Global Device Settings the following.

Rotation 900
Center Spring checked and at 20% - I never used to use this option in any Sim.
Spring Effect 0%
Dampening 100%
FFB 100%

In Game I went to 20 on the Dampening and 12 on the strength.

Now it feels a whole lot better. shaved off 1.2s off my best time round PI this week.

Thanks for the replies guys.
 
sounds good, don't forget to tick the box which allows for individual settings for each car as they are much needed. especially on the oval side you will want an ffb strength for each course (make a note what it was somewhere for the next season), it can make a difference of up to a second easily. just do some testing each week. the road cars are much more forgiving, at least i keep the ffb stable for each car individually and dont change it for each new track.
 
I had given up iRacing some time ago, always tempted to renew but when I drive AC, rF2, GSC 2013 etc I always remind myself how much I don't like iRacing physics/FFB/tire model.

Maybe it has improved in the last year?

NTM v5 has definitely helped, but in my opinion, GSC2013 still drives better. I can't speak for AC, as my PC is too old to run it (still running Vista, don't want to spend money on Windows 7, at least not yet).
 

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