AMS2. FFB Profile Choice.

  • Thread starter Deleted member 197115
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Deleted member 197115

  • Deleted member 197115

Which FFB profile do you use?
If different from Default, please specify (if possible) the reason you prefer the Custom one and what in your opinion is missing/wrong in Reiza's implementation.

Thanks
 
I use silver raw .45 version. Gain 100 for open wheelers or 96 at the least; for most other cars, down to 60/63, some at 70-75 and only a couple at 80.

other settings I keep it 50, 50, 50.

Feels perfect to be honest. I know thats hard to quantify but it is just simply within bounds of ideal parameters to get it all without over doing it. It helps one drive better too - great feel. Of course the most awesome change to it all was the tracks themselves becoming less noisy.

Thing just shines now. So when I say 'feels perfect' I definitely know for example what I do not want to feel and ver 45 ticks all the boxes. Its possible of course it could be better - but if it was, it may not even matter; thats what I mean.

I also use default in 1.1.1 about 20% of the time and if ver 45 did not exist I may even use it all the time.
 
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Depends on the car for me. I've was swapping between default and lastest Silver as i liked it for the DTM cars but didn't like the Porsche Cup cars with it. I wish they'd allow more than one selection in the menu. At least 3 custom profiles would be nice.
 
Predominently default now. It's no fuss, works well and is consistent. It's also been heavily updated. And they collaborate with silver raw and others.

One may go oh well bla bla bla. And I might. But I seem to prefer it for a great many cars. Custom is there for backup along with others into the 40s I can drop in. 45 was a good too.
 
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Hi,

I have found that the default AMS-2 profile provides very weak feedback in normal driving, but then it can be dangerously-powerful during a crash.

I compensated to a degree by turning the in-game over-all power way down for sheer safety, but then turning the in-game low-strength effects all the way up. This was a cheap and dirty way of compressing the power range, but it's still ill-balanced, and this can't be the right way to do it anyway. Any tips?

(The defaults in other games such as AC and PC-2 seemed far better balanced and haven't required major adjustments except to approximately-equalize over-all strength between games.)
 
Hi,

I have found that the default AMS-2 profile provides very weak feedback in normal driving, but then it can be dangerously-powerful during a crash.

I compensated to a degree by turning the in-game over-all power way down for sheer safety, but then turning the in-game low-strength effects all the way up. This was a cheap and dirty way of compressing the power range, but it's still ill-balanced, and this can't be the right way to do it anyway. Any tips?

(The defaults in other games such as AC and PC-2 seemed far better balanced and haven't required major adjustments except to approximately-equalize over-all strength between games.)

For my wheel I have gain at 75 in both game and control panel, and the rest at 0. Yes 0. Some people suggested to me put fx at 12. Which may be a thing you might want to try. The ffb profiles these days are good enough to turn most 'helpers' down for all wheels above the entry-grade wheels which use cogs and gears.

It sounds counter-intuitive that it would firm up the center and blend better in the turning, but thats what it did on late-era belt drive.

If fidelity is your thing you may get more milage out of a dd with 30-60 gain and low settings on other things. I will venture a guess that on a dd a person may want some dampening.
 
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I hope I'm not hijacking this thread, but it's not really about fidelity.

I absolutely love the high-fidelity tire feel that AMS2 can provide on the right car. On soft slicks, you get an almost "driving on gummy bears" feel. :)

My problem is that, on my wheel (SC-2 Sport), crashes can be incredibly (dangerously!) violent, whereas the normal driving feedback is very, very soft by comparison. So, to get decently strong feedback during normal driving, you are unnecessarily risking your thumbs or wrist during crashes and recovery.

This is exacerbated by the fact, I think, that AMS2 seems to often lose track of the wheel position after a crash. When you try to reassert control to get back on the road (e.g. off a rail), it often jerks the wheel violently again despite only moving at a walking pace.

This very wide dynamic range may be accurate (crashes are indeed violent in real life), but it's just too great a difference in power. Some compression is needed, and I haven't yet figured out the right way to achieve that.
 
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  • Deleted member 197115

The only way around is to maximize in game gain and lower in TD. It is the same problem iRacing has. I don't know why there is no limit on signal strength, should just clip and go flat at 100% like in Kunos titles.
 
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I hope I'm not hijacking this thread, but it's not really about fidelity.

I absolutely love the high-fidelity tire feel that AMS2 can provide on the right car. On soft slicks, you get an almost "driving on gummy bears" feel. :)

My problem is that, on my wheel (SC-2 Sport), crashes can be incredibly (dangerously!) violent, whereas the normal driving feedback is very, very soft by comparison. So, to get decently strong feedback during normal driving, you are unnecessarily risking your thumbs or wrist during crashes and recovery.

This is exacerbated by the fact, I think, that AMS2 seems to often lose track of the wheel position after a crash. When you try to reassert control to get back on the road (e.g. off a rail), it often jerks the wheel violently again despite only moving at a walking pace.

This very wide dynamic range may be accurate (crashes are indeed violent in real life), but it's just too great a difference in power. Some compression is needed, and I haven't yet figured out the right way to achieve that.
LFB in AMS2 can fill the role of compressing the range of FFB effects. As LFB is increased, lowering the gain in-game provides the balance of power.

In general, I like the Default FFB as it is now. I had been relying largely on custom profiles up to this point.
 
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Karsten’s latest RFuktor 3.1 file is pretty phenomenal.

He has changed the slider configuration so that ‘damper’ now acts as a power steering controller (higher damper setting means peak cornering forces are reduced). This works really well.

Most users report using in game settings of around 70/50/50/50 work really well across a range of wheels. I urge people to try it. IMO it is a massive step forward.

Edit: direct link: https://forum.reizastudios.com/attachments/ffb_custom_settings-silver-raw-rfuktor-3-1-txt.13242/

Edit 2: The last couple of pages or the custom FFB thread have versions tweaked for different wheels.
 
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Karsten’s latest RFuktor 3.1 file is pretty phenomenal.

He has changed the slider configuration so that ‘damper’ now acts as a power steering controller (higher damper setting means peak cornering forces are reduced). This works really well.

Most users report using in game settings of around 70/50/50/50 work really well across a range of wheels. I urge people to try it. IMO it is a massive step forward.

Edit: direct link: https://forum.reizastudios.com/attachments/ffb_custom_settings-silver-raw-rfuktor-3-1-txt.13242/

Edit 2: The last couple of pages or the custom FFB thread have versions tweaked for different wheels.
there is a tweaked rfuctor file for csl elite wheels which is superb
highly recommended to try
 
Karsten’s latest RFuktor 3.1 file is pretty phenomenal.

He has changed the slider configuration so that ‘damper’ now acts as a power steering controller (higher damper setting means peak cornering forces are reduced). This works really well.

Most users report using in game settings of around 70/50/50/50 work really well across a range of wheels. I urge people to try it. IMO it is a massive step forward.

Edit: direct link: https://forum.reizastudios.com/attachments/ffb_custom_settings-silver-raw-rfuktor-3-1-txt.13242/

Edit 2: The last couple of pages or the custom FFB thread have versions tweaked for different wheels.

I switched to it when it came out. Remarkable. I do not use the dampener function at all in the file, despite knowing I could still further dial in a very good steering package, and its still very good.

So smooth. Settings for me are 75/30/50/0 (may experiment with dampener but didn't seem to need it)

I do not mean to detract at a time like this but it could be the new physics make it even better - at the time of me trying it for a good hour or so, I felt the steering was so good that the physics almost had to do the catching up now [then].

Impressive.
 
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I switched to it when it came out. Remarkable. I do not use the dampener function at all in the file, despite knowing I could still further dial in a very good steering package, and its still very good.

So smooth. Settings for me are 75/30/50/0 (may experiment with dampener but didn't seem to need it)

I do not mean to detract at a time like this but it could be the new physics make it even better - at the time of me trying it for a good hour or so, I felt the steering was so good that the physics almost had to do the catching up now [then].

Impressive.

Karsten really is great at this stuff.

Btw, you are aware that with these new files the damper slider now acts as ‘power steering’ not damping?
 
Karsten really is great at this stuff.

Btw, you are aware that with these new files the damper slider now acts as ‘power steering’ not damping?

yes I am aware. at first with dialed in settings now I know where its sweet spot is and consistency, it is fine. so I have not adjusted it. haha I ran the debate in my mind of whether I should mess with it or not upon downloading it for the first time - and because my lap times and steering feel/ability to drive and adjust unhindered was fine so I did not adjust it.

but in saying that I will be sure to have a fiddle with it now after being more interested and hearing of it further. cheers
 
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And then I tried it...

Its like they say - your experience with the sim is defined by the time 'after' you put dampening to 50 and 'before' the time you put dampening to 50. And I am not going back.

:)

I think that with all the changes and physics updates they can absolutely pull something like the current model off, way more progression of feel etc to where dampening is extremely beneficial. And also that LFB is not needed, its come a long way. For this test it may not be necessary but I put dampening to 0 in control panel.
 
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