AM2 changes my Thrustmaster T-500 rotation to 520

I just purchased AM2 the other day and my first couple of tests were less than enjoyable. The steering was impossible to control, with the travel near center point more like an ON/OFF switch.
I have a Thrustmaster T500-rs that works perfectly with everything else.
I tried troubleshooting it in game, but even at best, the steering was always too brisk.
Until I went to look at the TM Game Controller in windows, where I discovered that my steering had been changed to 520 (or something like that).

I put it back to 900, but that was too sluggish, but I found a good compromise at 720 degrees.
I also tried to restart the game (after restarting the computer) to make sure it wasn't me that screwed up. It wasn't.
I made sure my TM was at 900, started AM2, and it was back to around 500, if not less.

One more thing: I have been lookiing everywhere for a brake and Throttle indicator in the game.
Beside the steering, which eventually I sort of fixed, I realized I was painfully slow. I figured it has been 5 years since I last did this seriously, but with the AI at 90% I was 5 to 7 seconds off the pace at Kialiamy with at GT3.
I was incredibly discouraged, I went down all the way to 83% and still the AI was kicking my butt. Until I realized that leaving the pits, the AI, on the straight was pulling away like a freight train.
I went to the Thurstmaster control panel, and sure enough my Throttle was only giving me about 70% travel.
I have some old G25 pedals I inverted myself, but I guess the Pot is failing. I sprayed with a contact cleaner and in a minute I was back racing (at higher than 90% AI, thankfully), and this happened to me before with ACC, but there there is a indicator where I could see something was wrong.

Thank you
 
Sorry, bit confused... you say you have a steering and throttle problem, but also that you fixed them yourself? So do you still have an issue you want help with? :unsure:

If you're still having steering rotation problems, make sure you have used the in-game calibration tool. Set it to what you want in the TMCP, start the game, then run the calibration tool. Same for the pedals.

As for your pedal pots, yeah, common problem with G25/27 pedals. I've taken mine apart numerous times over the last 12-13 years to strip and clean the pots. Replaced some too. That said, they're still going after over a decade of heavy use so can't complain too much!
 
I just purchased AM2 the other day and my first couple of tests were less than enjoyable. The steering was impossible to control, with the travel near center point more like an ON/OFF switch.
I have a Thrustmaster T500-rs that works perfectly with everything else.
I tried troubleshooting it in game, but even at best, the steering was always too brisk.
Until I went to look at the TM Game Controller in windows, where I discovered that my steering had been changed to 520 (or something like that).

I put it back to 900, but that was too sluggish, but I found a good compromise at 720 degrees.
I also tried to restart the game (after restarting the computer) to make sure it wasn't me that screwed up. It wasn't.
I made sure my TM was at 900, started AM2, and it was back to around 500, if not less.

One more thing: I have been lookiing everywhere for a brake and Throttle indicator in the game.
Beside the steering, which eventually I sort of fixed, I realized I was painfully slow. I figured it has been 5 years since I last did this seriously, but with the AI at 90% I was 5 to 7 seconds off the pace at Kialiamy with at GT3.
I was incredibly discouraged, I went down all the way to 83% and still the AI was kicking my butt. Until I realized that leaving the pits, the AI, on the straight was pulling away like a freight train.
I went to the Thurstmaster control panel, and sure enough my Throttle was only giving me about 70% travel.
I have some old G25 pedals I inverted myself, but I guess the Pot is failing. I sprayed with a contact cleaner and in a minute I was back racing (at higher than 90% AI, thankfully), and this happened to me before with ACC, but there there is a indicator where I could see something was wrong.

Thank you
Do the wheel and pedal calibration properly.
 
Do the wheel and pedal calibration properly.
And in AMS2, not in Windows. And think seriously about buying some new pedals, the G27s are plastic toys, and the Pots are cheap junk. I'm a Guitar Tech, and I know about Pots. Years ago, I replaced the pots on my G27s twice. Buy some pedals with Hall sensors and a load cell brake, you'll thank yourself for it.
 
... the G27s are plastic toys, and the Pots are cheap junk. I'm a Guitar Tech, and I know about Pots. Years ago, I replaced the pots on my G27s twice.
And yet my "plastic junk" pedals have served me well for over 12 years, and I've only had to replace one pot on the throttle about a year ago. Not so junky after all, especially for those who cannot justify the cost of the "high-end" gear.
 
And yet my "plastic junk" pedals have served me well for over 12 years, and I've only had to replace one pot on the throttle about a year ago. Not so junky after all, especially for those who cannot justify the cost of the "high-end" gear.
Who knows, maybe they've upped the quality in the meantime? It's a while ago since I had mine, I think I upgraded them in 2014.
Edited once for accuracy
 
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Hi, if you remember the type of pot and maybe a link to a store, please let me know. I searched a lot last year and I couldn't find a compatible one.
Thank you very much.
I think I found them online at Banzai Musik in Berlin Germany. It's a few years ago now, I upgraded them in 2014. They are, as I recall, a 300K linear with I think a 6mm shaft. The linear bit is important, you'll experience all all kinds of strange things when you use log pots
 
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