Ahhh, Fanatec Clubsport Pedal V2 problems, please help

[Spinelli]

I just received a set of CSP V2s and I'm having major issues. 3 days dealing with all sorts of issues.

First of all my gas was having issues with going to 100% braking and back to 0%. Also would do some spiking here and there. I then figured I'd install the drivers, I did and now they work perfect in that sense. So I figured the issue was that I didn't originally have the driver installed, so I uninstalled the driver and re-tested and they still work good. Weird, but whatever at least the throttle is working now.

1. Then on the second day (after installing the driver) all of a sudden the brake takes way too much force to get to 100% braking (according to Fanatec driver control panel and Windows control panel). Just 24 hours ago it was perfect. Setting the load cell to 10 (the easiest) is more like setting it to 5 or so. How did this just happen in one day? I havent even used them apart from calibration testing.

2. The load-cell issue above coincided with all the hydraulic feeling being gone in the pedals. It all of a sudden - in the space of 1 day - felt like a regular spring, non-loadcell brake. Just brake until the pedal hits a stop/"wall" and then once I hit the wall then I need to push more and more against the load cell. You literally have to push the pedal all the way until it comes to a physical stop and then that's when you have to push more and more to activate the load cell. Just the day before it had a relatively amazing fluid/hydraulic-like feel. What the??....

3. So I decided to take the oil out and refill it just in case. I filled the big cylinder all the way to the top, the very very top, but the small cyclinder I filled until the screw threads began. I wasn't sure exactly which way to do it since I cant for the life of me find a CSP V2 manual anywhere, just the vague-as-hell "manual video". Anyways, so as I am screwing the cyclinder tops back on I can't screw them all the way down because the clearish-white rings will have little sections that pop out and stick out once you tighten it to a certain point. It does this on both cylinders, I can't even tighten the reservoir tops down because the rings partially pop out!!! Ahhhhhhh

Seriously, this is the most ridiculous and cumbersome set of pedals I've ever dealt with...

Why did it all of a sudden loose it's hydraulic-like feeling over night? Why does it all of a sudden (over night) take a crap load of force to get full braking while in the weakest mode? Do I fill the oil up to the very top of the cyclinders or just to where the threads start? Why are both cylinder-top rings popping out when around 50-75% screwed in? Are the cyclinder tops not supposed to be fully screwed down?

When you spend this money and you just have problem after problem, question after question, weird behaviour after weird behaviour, while the 7 or 8 different pedals you've bought for a third or quarter of the price over the past 10 years don't give you issues, then you want to go mental. 3 days tinkering with these things like a full time job!!! Please help before I throw these things through my wall, lol

 

[Shark75]

The brake feeling sounds just like what I have my brand new CSP v2s. I have to push REALLY hard to get 100% brake (like I'm going to break the thing) on sensitivity 10. That can't be right and there is no travel in the brake hardly at all and no feeling at all either, just on off almost.

 

[Shark75]

Would be good to understand how to fill the oil properly. I just filled them to the top as there are no instructions.

 

[Frank]

Did you guys try contacting Fanatec support?

 

[Shark75]

I'm waiting for a response atm.

 

[Blkout]

I swear almost every day a new post on a forum comes up about the reliability or some random issue with the Clubsport pedals. I almost bought a set earlier this year and I'm so glad that I went with the CSR Elites based on customer feedback that they were far more reliable and less problematic than the Clubsports. Knock on wood, I've never had any issues with my CSR Elites and its been about 8-9 months now that I've owned them. I would quite honestly send them back to Fanatec and get a set of CSR Elite's while you can.

 

[Antonio Martins]

Regarding the R/C damper, it's better if you can have anyone from R/C world explaining and helping you on how to properly charge it. It needs to be done in a proper way for it to work as it should. Basically, you need to fill it without any air in it. You need to have the oil bubbles free.

I took apart my CSP V2 a couple months ago and after two years of usage the damper is still working properly! It didn't take much regular abuse over the two years, more like a moderate usage. But I've been dealing with R/C cars for most of my life so I knew what to do with it.

My only problem is with the gas pedal loosing calibration and getting less travel percentage registered over time.

 

[Lancey]

I had trouble with my gas pedal not going to 100% so I replace the sensor with a new one, that fixed the problem, now pedal goes to 100% every time with no fluctuations at all works great now. Still having issues with brake pedal pressure, need to press really hard for it to go even 90%.

 

[Shark75]

Maybe it's by design, but it's pretty odd that the design would be to push it THAT hard. I get to about 60% before I have to push so hard that I have no control over the last 40%.

If I move the arm down to the bottom hole it only calibrates to 50% of the values and it's soft with no progression.

 

[Moxley6969]

Stock Shock is a Piece of you know what, Toss a Mugen MBX7 buggy or truggy rear shock on and your laughing all the way to the bank.(40$ a pair on ebay) PM for a cheap link if curious.

FYI the stock shock will NEVER hold pressure. It has poor seals that tend to fail very quick and is flawed in its design with the piggy back, Those were never really designed to actually work but rather a marketing gimmick for Monster truck guys back in the day. I would venture to say you could source those exact same shock from china in the 1000's for less than 1$ a pop. more like .50cents actually.


Nearing 2 year's on my CSP's and one sensor screw worked it's way loose and needed re tightening, Ive also been though 1 load cell which if your Wise, can be sourced on ebay for 1/10 the cost.


Also Returning CSP's for Elite pedals would be like returning a CSW in favor of a G27.

 

[Blkout]

Nearing 2 year's on my CSP's and one sensor screw worked it's way loose and needed re tightening, Ive also been though 1 load cell which if your Wise, can be sourced on ebay for 1/10 the cost.


Also Returning CSP's for Elite pedals would be like returning a CSW in favor of a G27.

Just as I stated, you've already had to repair/replace components on your CSP's. at least you got off easy, some people have had a lot more trouble with theirs. Either way, you buy a set of CSP's, you're going to need to repair/replace parts on them. That's pretty unacceptable to me when it happens within a year or less for most people.

As for your last statement, no, not even remotely close.

 

[Moxley6969]

LOL its a Load cell, its 15$ retail and its a wear item, If you run a heavy brake they will fail eventually whats the problem ?, Do you honestly think Fana should provide Load cells for LIFE.....LOL dude get over yourself.

Yes Elite pedals being mainly thin aluminum, No Shock on the brake, No cam Clutch, Potentiometer for clutch and No Super Solid Frame Construction means they would be a Step Down from the CSP's plain and simple. Are you honestly trying to say the Elite's are better ?

 

[Blkout]

LOL its a Load cell, its 15$ retail and its a wear item, If you run a heavy brake they will fail eventually whats the problem ?, Do you honestly think Fana should provide Load cells for LIFE.....LOL dude get over yourself.

Yes Elite pedals being mainly thin aluminum, No Shock on the brake, No cam Clutch, Potentiometer for clutch and No Super Solid Frame Construction means they would be a Step Down from the CSP's plain and simple. Are you honestly trying to say the Elite's are better ?

Yes and most people that have owned both agree that the Elite's are better.

 

[Kjell Eilertsen]

I sincerely hope you are wrong @Blkout cos while I'm very happy with mine for the price I paid, and they certainly beat the G2x pedals by a metric mile, I still feel that they are a bit low end on the quality bar. The plastic on the sensors for throttle and brake, the rasping sound when using pedals, constantly building up squeaks and other noises that cleaning and lubricating only temporarily removes.
As said, they WORK really well, and for the price I consider them a steal, but compared to the quality feel of the CSW products they do feel cheap and I hope that the CSP v2s feel like a more high quality product considering it's price. But this is me wishing and hoping, as I have never actually tried a pair of v2s ><

 

[Moxley6969]

Lol, Im not even going to Disagree with you on that one Blkout, Cuz the community will do it for me, You are Dead wrong on this one, and the results will prove it.

 

[Blkout]

Lol, Im not even going to Disagree with you on that one Blkout, Cuz the community will do it for me, You are Dead wrong on this one, and the results will prove it.

I'm no more dead wrong than you are. Its an opinion and I can provide PLENTY of links from others people that have owned both that would disagree with you so what "community" are you referring to? I did my research before I bought my CSR Elites, I had my heart set on the CSP' V2's but the negative reports on the CSP's FAR FAR outweigh the CSR Elites. The CSP's are a great looking set of pedals that quite simply aren't built nearly as good as they look. Lots of issues with squeaky pedals within the first month of use, Hall sensors stop working or come loose require constant re-tightening and adjusting. I assume you aren't a member of the iRacing forum, there are countless posts of CSP issues that just go on and on. Even Reddit is full of complaints and they're all the same complaints so its not just isolated cases.

Whatever though man, if you're happy with them that's fine, but your OPINION of which pedals are better is no more valid than mine. Next you'll be telling me that your favorite food is the best food in the world and if anyone disagrees then they're just "dead wrong".

 

[Kjell Eilertsen]

Your Elites don't squeak? Mine does. ><

 

[Blkout]

Your Elites don't squeak? Mine does. ><

No squeaks here. What is squeaking on yours? The CSP's due to their metal construction seem to squeak due to the lubrication drying up rather quickly and constant need of re-lubing. The Elite's don't have this issue.

 

[Moxley6969]

Constant need of re-lubing, LOL Never once have i lubed my pedals in 2 years.
PS its called Brass bushing's, Or wait maybe your Plastic bushing's on your elites are better somehow tho, So maybe I should Sell my CSP's and buy some elites.

 

[Kjell Eilertsen]

No squeaks here. What is squeaking on yours? The CSP's due to their metal construction seem to squeak due to the lubrication drying up rather quickly and constant need of re-lubing. The Elite's don't have this issue.

My throttle pedal keeps developing a squeak, I think it comes from the spring and bolt but have never been able to fully locate it.

@Moxley6969 now you're just being childish with your comments.