ACC Logitech G25 settings

Hi, I've just bought the ACC and found out that the FBB is just terrible. FBB is dead around the center, so few degrees of rotation close to the center I dont feel anything. In AC it was the same but not as noticable. Is there any tutorial how to set FBB for G25 in ACC? I've found some threads here but nothing like step by step tutorial. Also looks like the rasmusP is some kind of wizard for the logitech wheels, just from what I've read :D Can someone help me sort it out?
 

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I have an old Drivingforce Pro, I drive the FFB settings at 69 percent and feel everything. The higher I go in the setting, the less feedback I get. Lut only makes it worse. Give it a try.
The driving force pro is similar to the dfgt, right?
The dfgt only has a dead zone of 2-4%. The g series wheels have 13-18%!

My lut for the dfgt (a good friend of mine has one) is very mild. No comparison to the dead zone removal curve of my g series luts!

When you like 69% gain, my dfgt lut will be too strong I guess.
Do you set any minimum force? If yes, how much?
I want to get the FFB right. Rotation settings doesn't influence FBB or?
Yes they do with the Logitech wheels (not sure about other wheels).
The "full ffb" gets compressed into the lower range of rotation.
With 540° (classic rally degree setting), the ffb is a lot stronger than with 900°!
The weirdest thing is that when I go straight (no lock applied) I feel kerbs, but when I apply some lock e.g. in corner I don't feel kerbs, it's like there is smooth surface :D
That's 99% sure because if clipping.
You're using 100% gain and below 300° rotation.
That like 200% gain...
The moment you're steering, the game internal ffb will instantly reach 100% and anything that comes on top of that will simply be clipped off.

You posted that you followed the steam guide with my lut?
What did you set in the end?

Always happy to help :)
 
Generated a new lut at 101% in the logii CP, however ended up settling for 104% force and 95%( ish ) gain in ACC with min force at 0. Had to raise overall force or there was just no weight in the middle of the wheel range ( regardless of min force ) and it was driving me mad. Have set dyn damping down around 40%. The FFB meter in game doesn't show any clipping, but I need to check that out in a bit more detail because rasing force like that did seem to make the feeback a bit more dull.
Did you ever try my lut? I know they aren't perfect for acc as the lut option got patched in after I upgraded to a fanatec wheel.. So never configured a lut with my g27...

The acc ffb is a bit more rough and stronger so my luts are a bit too much I think.
Instead of the "recommended" one I would suggest to try the "normal center" lut instead and maybe lower the gain a little. Maybe 85%.

No min force of course. The only reason my luts exist is to "replace" the min force with a smooth curve. They don't shape the ffb like the lut generator luts do.

Btw, I hate the lut generator luts.. During my looooong research and fiddling time I tried various stuff and there are a few issues with wheelcheck:

1. The creator of the lut generator never had a Logitech wheel (there's a post in the thread where he mentions this)

2. Wheelcheck "throws" the wheel and measures the degrees it continued turning.
Who says that the resistance of the base is linear across all "throw speeds"? It has nothing to do with how linear you will feel increasing, constant pushing from the motor!

Anyway if you want to try my luts and need any help, just shout. Of course you're free to use whatever you like!
If you tried it and want some adjustments, I'm happy to provide a weaker/stronger/tighter/less tight lut!
 
Yes they do with the Logitech wheels (not sure about other wheels).
The "full ffb" gets compressed into the lower range of rotation.
With 540° (classic rally degree setting), the ffb is a lot stronger than with 900°!

That's 99% sure because if clipping.
You're using 100% gain and below 300° rotation.
That like 200% gain...
The moment you're steering, the game internal ffb will instantly reach 100% and anything that comes on top of that will simply be clipped off.

You posted that you followed the steam guide with my lut?
What did you set in the end?

Always happy to help :)

I end up without LUT, changed the rotation to 900° and it is better in my opinion, but still I cannot feel e.g. the elevation of the outer kerb before T16 Nurburgring. But its probably the wheel it self... Btw what settings woud you recommend? And shall I use the LUT?
 
I end up without LUT, changed the rotation to 900° and it is better in my opinion, but still I cannot feel e.g. the elevation of the outer kerb before T16 Nurburgring. But its probably the wheel it self... Btw what settings woud you recommend? And shall I use the LUT?
I personally would use my "normal center" LUT:

Download the zip and put the 2 files in the "normal center" folder into
Documents\Assetto Corsa Competizione\Config

That enables the LUT as far as I know.

Then I would suggest:
Overall Effects Strength: 100
Spring: 100 (it's inactive for all modern sims so you could also put it to 0 or 150)
Damper: 100 (This is ONLY the standing still rubber effect. I personally hat it, so my damper was at 0%)

Enable Centering Spring: NOT CHECKED! Disable it! It's for games without FFB!

Degrees of Rotation: 900°

Than for ACC:
Gain: 100%
Min Force: 0%
Dynamic Damping: 40% (100% is a bit dull for Logitech wheels)
Road Effects: 5-10%
Frequency: 333Hz
Steer Lock: 900°
Steer Linearity: 1.00
Gearshift: default
Manufacturer Extras (no idea, but keep it enabled)

Should drive well :)
 

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