Hi again, just going to go over some points you mentioned in the last post.
Im not going to cover Simvibe and do recommend the sooner you get acquainted with Simhub then the sooner you will learn of its benefits. The idea is to get people to able to work with others in creating superior effects with Simhub and sharing profiles effect ideas with other owners of the large BK units and ability to push them with NXD DSP capable amps.
The physical knobs on the amps are set to mid level and it works best as is. Any slight increase is causing pang/ piston noise. Turning lower volume from the amp won't give me enough power.
So already you have an issue, that a small amount of trim on the front knobs is too little power and any slight gain is too much. This with the (input gain) via front knobs already only at (midpoint) approx 12pm position.
What you are doing here is confirming a scenario I mentioned previously prior to knowing you had already purchased NX6000D model.
Behringer's wattages stated I believe are (peak wattage) ratings and not RMS but let's take a look.
NX6000D
Power: 2x
3000 Watt at 4 Ohm
NX3000D
Power: 2x
900 W at 4 Ohm
Quite a difference in wattage outputs between each model.
So you need to use the DSP to reduce the NX600D wattage as we see it has more than 3x the output of the recommended 3000D model. I do not know anyone that uses even a 3000D model at max capacity especially if users are installing the units direct to seat/pedal sections for better-felt detail and also requiring less wattage output to be used.
BK Specs Say 1500 Watts...
Yes the BK is rated at up to 1500w and the common issue with all BK units when you take them higher in wattage then the piston pang becomes more critical due to (particular culprit frequencies) that various BK models need specific attenuation applied. If that is done then the user will control better the piston issue. This can be done with PEQ controls in targeting these culprit frequencies and reducing their amplitude. The larger units seem to have a spike in output @20-25Hz and with the BK Mini it is @30-35Hz. When we apply EQ to reduce the output of these frequencies going to the units then it helps this issue but the user is also advised to take care with input levels of the source (soundcard) and how the pre-amp section alters the source input prior to the main amplification.
Try setting the NX6000D with 1000W per channel I doubt you will need more?
I recommend with these NXD amps, using a soundcard at 50% - 60% output
Then have the front knobs on amp from 12pm-2pm positions
This appeared to work well with several people in past private testing using the large BK.
Important:
1) Soundcard Volume (Simhubs Primary Vol Top Right)
+
2) Input Trim Level (Knobs On Amp)
=
3) Pre Amp gain level
If you have a soundcard at 100% lower it to reduce potential clipping and distortion
The combination of these = the input level for source going into the amp from the soundcard prior to the amps primary amplification.
This ensures the signal from the soundcard is not already coming in too hot
Lots of people will crank a soundcard to 100% and then it creates more issues with effects peaking and potential clipping of the signal.
We then apply additional dB to the frequencies via the Crossover and this determine what energy/amplitude is applied to specific frequencies. Here you control the slope to suit what type/model of unit is being used, also to your preference and possible usage case that this tactile unit will have.
We can then use PEQ for specific tuning/altering of individual frequencies, so a user can fully tune a unit to operate at its best within their own installation and preferences. Once it's done to the user's satisfaction, it's done needing no more tweaking. However, it is possible to create profiles that alter the amp for types of scenario. Say late-night gaming in that you want the tactile but at a lesser output. So its easy to load a different pre-tuned profile exactly for that purpose.
Once you get to grips with it you discover it's not that complicated at all.
As for the sound card settings, in windows control panel all configured as per SimVIbe instructions. Note that I will need to reconfigure for the SImHub. I understand the concept of having Dual mono mode since the SimVibe is this method or system. Talking about SimVIbe, (sure it's not a topic of the day) but it is worth mentioning, I am familiar with it and so far managed to tune in to an acceptable level. It works well so far except that some effects are not felt in Large BK's whilst Mini's are actually able to produce.
The large BK's work best with lower frequencies in SimVibe. I am talking about number 20 in simvibe but I am not sure whether this stands for 20Hz or just a number? On the other hand, the Mini Bk is felt best at around number 60 in simvibe. it could be 60Hz, not sure?
So you don't know what the values represent or if they are acurate?
Are you referring to using the Simvibe Settings screen like this for testing these tones?
Or that you are doing these tests from within a sim running and it generating real-time tones via an effect slider?
The reason I ask is that the settings screen (above) that has the (Test Tone) slider to alters tones, never worked correctly but I do not know if it was ever fixed? Yet I do know a lot of people did use this in an attempt to tune their tactile in thinking they are feeling the different tones, oh dear.....
I would use that only to determine if you get a response and nothing more.
Recommendation:
Do those tests requested via Simhub and from within a sim. Using the RPM or Gear for repeated or single sensations. This way you are replicating how the tactile will be used and not other test tone options.
I think You are spot on about Balancing and Transducer installation. I've noticed a slightly different effect and noise due to a having them installed in places where other hardware is installed too. As a result the sound and effects are slightly different. That being said, prior to doing the frequency test, maybe I should spend time testing all 8 transducers individually just to see where and when each transducer performs or feels best. I shall write everything down and post it in one of your threads.
Yes and yet we still have people on these forums who will argue that DSP is not needed at all.
Look forward to your tests and findings.
