A little help needed regarding Buttkickers LFE large and amplifier

First of all, this is a great place for finding information about sim racing gear. There is a a lot in this forum in regards to the Buttkickers, and I have a simple question.

I bought a Behringer NX6000D amp to run 2 x Buttkickers LFE's full size in simvibe extension mode. The question is what cables do I need and where should be connected.

In addition, this may not be relavant but it might be worth mentioning that already have configured 4 mini lfe's buttkickers chassis mode. The amp I am using for mini's is Emotiva BasX A500 and It works well.

As for the Behringer nx6000d, it uses different cables for inputs and outputs.

Your help is greatly appreciated.

Cheers
 
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How did you do? I see where to do it and it is asking 'waiting for input' I try keyboard or wheel and it does nothing?

Yeah with this?

Not something I looked into as I wouldn't need it
Might be to do with (Controls/Events) or (Additional Plugins)
Did you look on the Simhub wiki not sure if it's been covered in detail.

I think one guy was using a cheap (midi controller) binding its controls to the software.

Simhub Edit.JPG



This is mentioned
 
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Yeah with this?

Not something I looked into as I wouldn't need it
Might be to do with (Controls/Events) or (Additional Plugins)
Did you look on the Simhub wiki not sure if it's been covered in detail.

I think one guy was using a cheap (midi controller) binding its controls to the software.

View attachment 438501


This is mentioned
Yes thats the one, I click to configure it and shows 'waiting for input' but does nothing? Probably a bug?
 
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No, I think you need to do something with those other controls/plugins.
Go to the Discord, query it with the developer or ask for the Simhub Wiki to be updated on how to do it.

Issue is nothing to do with the topic of this thread...
 
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PROBLEM FOUND: Long story short, all this time the noise generated from the large BK's at around 35z -45hz was nothing to do with the amps. In fact, my metal mounting brackets had a tiny flex that were causing (I believe so called a resonant frequency). Just to be sure, I pressed my large BK's with my leg to prevent any flex and bingo! It gave me clean and perfect performance noise free. I was very surprised because the metal brackets are 6mm thick made out of super strong steel that looks impossible to flex or bend. Anyway, I will be cutting a few new aluminium flat plates and will find ways to have the large BK's mounted somehow without having any flex.

I should have checked this earlier but at the same time it was a good thing as I would never learn about certain things as much as I did thanks to Mr. Latte's lengthy information and guide regarding the setup.

In addition, I have created a few amp profiles with a Peak limit 1000W, 1600W and 2000W that may come handy to try out and test once I get things mounted.

Finally I won't go into mounting locations guide because I don't have many choices due to my rig limitations. However I do know were the vibrations feel great and so I will use the same location.

Talk soon, thanks
 
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Hard for is to tell of installation issues as I don't think you showed how you mounted the large BK, and how the surface it's attached to is fastened/compressed equally or just more at one end/area?

You did previously say:

"38hz-45hz clunky noise, piston noise you name it. Totally unacceptable, uncomfortable and it is something that you don't want to hear. It doesn't even feel good at all."

As a reference with steel/aluminum, you may get resonance @ 30Hz and @50Hz

Keep in mind tones we output will have neighboring frequencies so it's not going to be an exact science but these come in close to the frequencies you mentioned caused bad noise.

The @40Hz range is also one that is typically output with plenty of energy on most units and because of that a frequency that's used a lot by most transducer owners. As you had high wattage setting, that also may have been a contributing factor to the level of noise being generated by this issue?

If the issue wasn't as bad with lower volume/wattage during your testing? Then to some extent, we can place a dip for the output of the 40Hz so that high energy output is still possible but at some frequencies, we may have to attenuate their output.

When your fix is in place
In frequency tests, note down like you had any further issues with specific frequencies and if lowering the volume reduces the issue or if the issue is still persistent at most volumes.
 
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If you bought the NX6000D model then yes it has the DSP features.

HELP = Amp DSP Settings Info
Lots of detailed info here to help get you started.

You need to help and learn/experience yourself, how making changes within the CROSSOVER filtering and EQ alter your BK output. With some messing around you will grasp what and how it changes things.
Yet you can also learn to feel at what point the large BK also tend to drop off in felt immersion as these units have most benefit with lower bass and bring much more energy and immersion to these than small transducers or indeed the Mini BK units as they just simply cannot re-create the same sensations with the lowest frequencies regardless of what wattage/amp is used

While the large BK with DSP can bring very nice low bass energy and immersion, it still leaves potential in other ways that can be adopted into a build.

The best approach for low bass but also detail is to use an installation that can use both a large BK and then either the recommended (40w Thruster) exciters discussed on these forums as a concept I am pushing people towards experimenting with. The alternative is to use a Clark Synthesis TST model as secondary units but these are quite expensive if going beyond the entry-level T209 unit.

Why?
The large BK seem the best for low bass, but they run with only minor detail beyond the 60-80Hz range
Yet with the exciters and the TST units we can use them as secondary units to bring much better detail from the 30-200Hz range. Look at it like having a woofer and midrange unit but us covering the full bass range. A single unit will also struggle to produce detail with scenarios like several effects or more advanced effects that contain multiple layers for specific sensations. We can split the frequencies of effects that they go to specific units suited better for their reproduction.

This approach of not just relying on the BK units can greatly extend the felt sensation possible as well as the detail for much richer immersion and the ability to then create and apply more impressive effects design and specific layers or effect roles to specific units.

This "Dual Role" method is worth experimenting with and especially for effects that are active for longer periods or are more consistent. RPM and SPEED in how we can apply both of these to work together and bringing from very low Hz output for high energy low bass but also then for adding more zing and life/sparkle to higher rpm sensations. Experimentation with this is good self-learning and using or how you apply a suitable crossover and your preference of filtering.


Filtering has a big impact on how a unit responds. We can apply gain and a curve for a unit to operate over with the DSP controls.

Then we can use EQ within that curve to apply specific cuts/boost to targetted frequencies. For example large BK suit having a drop in amplitude with EQ @20-25Hz as this region can cause piston pang. Yet we may want to boost that 5-10Hz a lot and have it fall gradually to a range we want the unit to work within. Over 60Hz you will likely feel limited gains in response with the large BK and when applying boost.

This thread (which you have seen) tried to get owners to discuss settings and help people learn how to achieve more performance from their large BK by using DSP. Pay attention to the diagrams showing very different examples of crossover filtering. I recommend you try options like that too.

Like several threads, I have tried it failed with little participation or interest.
Few people are interested in (Tactile) to the level I am which is understandable but its an area I think much can still be improved or learned and I know I still have more things to share and learn yet myself that my own build will highlight in the future.

I attempted at various times and places to encourage others to get involved and offer their own collective feedback. To have a discussion, or indeed debate over differences in opinions/preferences or approaches. I was offering feedback from findings I spent a lot of time with testing and then showcasing and sharing these so others could then share their own findings and people then compare or use such methods myself or others were offering.

The fact is, based on the evidence from limited responses of others, you will find hardly any posts of people coming back giving their own input and information on their own tests and findings or indeed them sharing settings. I can say this after trying several threads over the last 2 years.


Simvibe has not really had any major updates in many years and we can do much more now with Simhub than Simvibe. I would only recommend Simvibe for any specific sim that may offer as good effects support than Simhub (if any).

Simhub is not restricted to CM & EM modes or needing more than 1 soundcard to use with more than 4 transducers. It also can support an unlimited number of channels and soundcards.
Hi,

I was just messing with my nx3000d. Trying to feel out the output of my bk concert with a simple tone tester. I had the exact same experience as you mention, felt like a hefty bumb in the 20-25hz range and then I can feel output below 15hz but it drops off. So your comment was exactly what I thought about doing "large BK suit having a drop in amplitude with EQ @20-25Hz as this region can cause piston pang. Yet we may want to boost that 5-10Hz a lot and have it fall gradually to a range we want..." ----> however, the nx3000d does not seem to allow any modifications below 20hz (yes I know a modification at 20hz will bleed over). But if we reduce output around 20-25hz, how have you increased output around 5-10hz? A big bump at 20hz (to also increase output down to 5hz), and then try to drastically tame the 20-25hz output by bleeding in a reduction a bit higher up the frequency band from that?
 
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