You may not have calibrated your pressure sensitive pedals correctly

[Ghoults]

I know this may sound obvious but too many times when I read about someone's experiences with pressure sensitive pedals (hydraulic, loadcell) they complain about the brakes locking too easily/soon. Usually this is actually a calibration error and not something you want or need to tune and adjust away with some other setting like brake unlinearity (fyi: always use fully linear brake setting with all pedals)!

When you calibrate your brake pedal remember that the calibration software asks you to press the pedal to get a minimum value and maximum value. Minimum value is when you are not touching the pedal.

However the maximum value is not how much you press the brake when you are braking on the limit!

It is the value for the maximum braking effort where you are braking as hard as you can with all tires locked and car out of control. Threshold braking (how much you generally apply force on the brake pedal during hard braking) is something like 70%-90% of that value unless you have abs.

If you calibrate your brake pedal with too little force your brake pedal becomes too sensitive because the maximum value is set too low. So when adjusting pressure sensitive brake pedal always use little more force than you normally use when driving. If your brake pedal is still too sensitive calibrate the brake pedal again but use more force. Repeat this until your brake pedal feels correctly stiff during braking and not too sensitive.

 

[ice_kimi]

thanks for sharing it
but i wonder if putting max load-cell value is good for not locking tires?
by default it sets on 7 but i rather use 10

 

[Ghoults]

thanks for sharing it
but i wonder if putting max load-cell value is good for not locking tires?
by default it sets on 7 but i rather use 10

I'm sorry but I don't understand what you mean. What do you mean by this load cell value?

Essentially to get the brake pedal to feel just right (doesn't lock tires too soon, is not too heavy) when you are braking hard you need to calibrate the brake pedal with more force than that that value you use for normal braking.

 

[ice_kimi]

ah oh i misunderstood the thread purpose
i know how to push correctly loadcell brake
for hard braking i have no issue since ABS is enabled
main issue is for braking gradually and avoid to lose time since i set loadcell brake much more sensitive (max loadcell value as 10)

 

[Ghoults]

ah oh i misunderstood the thread purpose
i know how to push correctly loadcell brake
for hard braking i have no issue since ABS is enabled
main issue is for braking gradually and avoid to lose time since i set loadcell brake much more sensitive (max loadcell value as 10)

What is this loadcell value? Is it something you adjust from the game (like iracing's brake curve factor or whatever it is called), is it some maximum value you adjust from the pedal calibration screen or is it some potentiometer like on fanatec pedals?

 

[ice_kimi]

yes, its on loadcell potentiometer which allows you to set to the lowest sensitive loadcell to the highest.

 

[whaletail]

I finally calibrated my HPP hydraulic pedals with DIView last night, and it is so much more powerful than Windows 7 game controller calibration app!

iRacing and Assetto Corsa both provide in-game calibration, but F1 2013 (to the best of my knowledge) does not, and until calibrating with DIView, I couldn't actuate the throttle more than 70%, which obviously made the game unplayable.

The OP is absolutely correct. High end pedals, at least, definitely require "global" calibration with those sims without in-game calibration. Moreover, proper calibration software makes it easy to dial in customized deadzones, and you can set max brake pressure wherever it feels best.

If anyone's interested, I'll post the DIView link later. If anyone is reticent about running unfamiliar software, you needn't worry, as it was created by either Leo Bodnar or Niels Heuskenveld (can't remember which).

Henk

 

[DinoMSi]

Hello, is the DIView useful for the clupsort pedals (as far as calibrating the pedals to a better degree) or is the in game calibration like on iRacing good enough for the clubsport pedals?

Also, does anyone else have to calibrate the brake on the clubsport pedal to less then 100% pressure in iRacing in game calibration? I have to set it to around 3/4th or less the total pressure in order brake realistically otherwise you have to have an elephant foot.

In gran turismo I never needed to calibrate pedals and braking was no problem. I understand iRacing has more depth as far as calibration and ffb then console sim but just wanted to know if this brake calibration is normal in iRacing and not some fault with the load cell. Thanks

 

[JeanYves Samson]

I finally calibrated my HPP hydraulic pedals with DIView last night, and it is so much more powerful than Windows 7 game controller calibration app!

iRacing and Assetto Corsa both provide in-game calibration, but F1 2013 (to the best of my knowledge) does not, and until calibrating with DIView, I couldn't actuate the throttle more than 70%, which obviously made the game unplayable.

The OP is absolutely correct. High end pedals, at least, definitely require "global" calibration with those sims without in-game calibration. Moreover, proper calibration software makes it easy to dial in customized deadzones, and you can set max brake pressure wherever it feels best.

If anyone's interested, I'll post the DIView link later. If anyone is reticent about running unfamiliar software, you needn't worry, as it was created by either Leo Bodnar or Niels Heuskenveld (can't remember which).

Henk

I am interrested.... Thanks

 

[Pär Öqvist]

Diview is great. I have the HE Sim Ultimates pedal so if I don´t want to insta lock I make it close to physically impossible to lock. Better to work to lock the tires then work to avoid lock the tires.

Some cars like the Cobra in AC I am running 60-70 % max brake because they have no brake pressure adjustments and the brakes lock like crazy after 70 % so I just couldn´t see the point with more effective braking. But there is maybe not to many pedal sets that can offer brake pressures high enough so you can do this.

In most sims you can reduce brake pressure to compensate but in AC the only way is to make your brake pedal stiffer to make it harder to get a 100 % brake effort if you have trouble with locking or the pedal feeling to light. As for non linear don´t think it´s a necessary no no particularly for braking.

 

[SteffenLS]

I am interrested.... Thanks

http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=page&id=12

 

[JeanYves Samson]

http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=page&id=12

Thank you! Steffen

 

[whaletail]

I actually wish iRacing allowed DiView calibration, as it's impossible (that I can tell) to set 100% force independently of applied pressure. Although setting a deadzone is possible, it requires fooling the calibration system, and is impossible to set with DiView's precision.

For that reason, I need to raise the iRacing brake force beyond zero to minimize overbraking (the MX-5 has ABS, preventing lockups), but lose braking linearity in doing so.

Although I haven't run AC in awhile, I assume I'll have to use its brake force equivalent similarly.

Just for clarity, R3E doesn't provide in-game calibration, does it? I hope not, as I'd like to use to DiView calibration instead.

BTW, I'm running HPPs with the high durometer black bushing.

Henk