Wheel settings after update

[Peter]

All the old control sets are terminated with the update.

The advised settings are 900° and 30 wheel lock, but we tested and used default wheel driver settings without damper and spring.

For example Thrustmaster T500 60%/100%/100%/0%/0% and TX 75%/100%/100%/0%/0%.

Logitech uses 270° default, so the wheel lock is set to 10 in game.
Feel free to change that to 900°/30.

All wheels that have 900° should use this from now on as a default setting.

The target for the team is to have an automatic rotation/lock for all wheels/cars in the future.

 

[Mach]

Funny, I find AC' tyre modelling to be too wash out if you get me. I find I'm tiptoeing around..most of the race cars are cool, but the road cars I'm not sure...but whatever, i just think find a SIM you like and crack on. Anyways back on subject, if you're finding that you have straightline instability check my previous post. It may be of some use..

Hey Guys, I've just been doing some testing to iron out a steering input niggle I've been having.....and I'm not sure if anybody has mentioned this before or not but I'll share my discovery with you anyway, so sorry if this is old news but I'm fairly new to R3E and I think it will help.

Steering Settings Tip : Steering Sensitivity for 900'

Goto Control Settings/Advanced

Check your steering sensitivity. If it is as 100% you'll see on the test zone at the top, there is way too much rotation in game. I can't remember what was default. So this may not help at all.

At 100% Try turning the wheel 90' five times in one direction. Up to 270' there is way too much in game rotation for each turn and then very little at the end. Also jiggle the wheel around center and see how much it moves in the test zone. (This could be the reason for some of the weaving in the straights some people have been experiencing). I wanted to make each 90' turn even and to do that I had to turn the sensitivity to 50%. Now, you'll notice the test zone reads evenly for each 90' turned and the jiggle is way less. This gives a more much more natural feel to the steering on track. It also means you are less likely to over correct and can be more accurate.

If you have been driving with 100% sensitivity and change to 50%, you will need to increase your steering lock a few clicks in the steering setting of car set up.

Anyway, just thought I'd share...Peace.

 

[Msportdan]

I wont lie I feel a little bad for the sector3 guys here, now. I know they have worked their butts off in a awkward time for the company, and I don't want to seem like a spoilt little whining kid, im not im 37 lol. S3 have developed this game probably beyond all our imaginations and I know theyre trying their best, having simbin past catalogue must be a beast to overcome.

I think I will speak on behalf of us "whining kids" lol

we see the potential in RRe just were trying to help it develop,. please jay, sonat and the rest of the geniuses there, don't take offense.

Dan

 

[Brandon Wright]

Yep, I'm only trying to provide constructive feedback because I see so much potential.

 

[Mach]

I must admit chaps, I'm getting some good feeling from my wheel now...would it be useful for me to post my settings later? It's a T300 so it may only help owners of that wheel..anyways as we have all said in the past, it's preference at the end of the day, but I'm getting no swaying in the straights, plenty of vertical, and a sensible amount of lateral forces..

Also here's my YT video on Steering Sensitivity....too many urmmms, lol and I'm no presenter. Maybe it's because it was recorded live and at 8a.m...

 

[Thomasew]

Hi Mach,

I'd be interested to see your wheel settings (R3E and Control Panel). I have the Thrustmaster TX with the GTE Wheel, .. so, for all intents and purposes .. the same setup as ur T300RS.

Cheers
Tom

 

[Mach]

TM Control Panel :
DOR : 900%
Overall - 100%
Constant - 100%
Periodic - 75%
Spring + Damper - 0%
Auto-Center - By Game

R3E : Control/Advanced
Speed Sensitive Steering : 0
Steering/Throttle/Brake - 50%
All Dead Zones - 0%

R3E : Control/Force Feedback
Feedback Intensity - 100%
Smoothing - 0%
Steering Force Intensity - 125%
Understeer - 85%
Vertical Load - 150%
Lateral - 80%
Rack - 0%
Engine - 5%
Brakes - 5% still playing with this one, hoping as I up it it will help with lock up detection?!?!
Kerb - 60%
Shift - 80%

R3E : Audio (the ones I think matter) still tweaking
Player - 100%
Effects Volume - 35%
Engine - 50%
Road Noise - 5%
Scrub - 100%
Skid - 30%

Also in game I generally use 900/30 in the steering settings. Hopefully it helps, maybe at least to get a base.

 

[Raikku]

What about CSW v2's autodetect/support, is it finally fixed?

 

[Shovas]

I think there are two sides to this issue. Everyone identifying the 'loose' / 'swaying center' / floatiness problem are talking about the ffb center deadzone issue that S3 knows about but hasn't talked about fixing yet.

On one side I believe this is lower end DFGT, G25, G27 wheels which are known to have that loose feeling around center. If owners of other wheels are experiencing the same please chime in.

On the other side, the majority of wheel owners around the globe *do* have these entry level wheels so it's in S3's best interest to try to get the best experience possible for the most wheel owners.

At default FFB settings, on my G27, I like the FFB forces everywhere in the rotation except the center where the deadzone is. That leads me to suspect this all comes down to fixing that center deadzone in the way iRacing has done it with a Min Force setting which simply indicates the minimum force to get a movement on the wheel. That tightens up the wheel tremendously in iRacing.

 

[Mach]

That is a great feature in iRacing for sure.

 

[Msportdan]

I think there are two sides to this issue. Everyone identifying the 'loose' / 'swaying center' / floatiness problem are talking about the ffb center deadzone issue that S3 knows about but hasn't talked about fixing yet.

On one side I believe this is lower end DFGT, G25, G27 wheels which are known to have that loose feeling around center. If owners of other wheels are experiencing the same please chime in.

On the other side, the majority of wheel owners around the globe *do* have these entry level wheels so it's in S3's best interest to try to get the best experience possible for the most wheel owners.

At default FFB settings, on my G27, I like the FFB forces everywhere in the rotation except the center where the deadzone is. That leads me to suspect this all comes down to fixing that center deadzone in the way iRacing has done it with a Min Force setting which simply indicates the minimum force to get a movement on the wheel. That tightens up the wheel tremendously in iRacing.

t300 gte here, has swaying and over powering centre forces.

 

[Mach]

t300 gte here, has swaying and over powering centre forces.

I had the same complaint Dan, as you know....but now I am a lot happier. I don't get the sway and I have the centre forces under control....I know you've tried a million settings, but see how you get on with mine maan. It's up to you obviously, but I almost dropped R3E and/or the GTE because of it.

 

[Martin Edmunds]

t300 gte here, has swaying and over powering centre forces.

I am not sure why this thread continues, every time i read a comment from you its always the same story going round and round and round.
I have a T300 rs and zero issue here. So i am not sure what your doing wrong. But if all T300 owner had issue you can be certain a lot of people would be complaining.

I would say after spending this much energy complaining here, Personally if i had this many issue i would have moved on to those other so called better game in your opinion.

 

[Jyri Kettunen]

That is a great feature in iRacing for sure.

rFactor 2 and AC have it too.

 

[Mach]

rFactor 2 and AC have it too.

Well then, it's great for them too... I must admit I'd forgotten about AC, I haven't played it for a while....I've never played rFactor2...

 

[Brandon Wright]

I am not sure why this thread continues, every time i read a comment from you its always the same story going round and round and round.
I have a T300 rs and zero issue here. So i am not sure what your doing wrong. But if all T300 owner had issue you can be certain a lot of people would be complaining.

I would say after spending this much energy complaining here, Personally if i had this many issue i would have moved on to those so called better in your opinion.

I have a T300, previously a GT3 RS V2, and I really disliked the way R3E felt on both of them. Vary swaying and lack of friction between the tires and road, and no auditory clues from your tires when you're leaning on them (which adds to the disconnected feeling). The T300 feels better, but still wrong and unsatisfying. Rather than continuing discuss it and figure it out, I've just opted to put R3E on the shelf.

I know a few other people with T300/T500 wheels and all of them also dislike the way R3E feels and gave up on it quite quickly. I tried to give it a fair shake and I can adapt to it but never fully enjoy it or feel connected to the car, so I'm pretty much done with it too.

To each their own.

 

[Msportdan]

RRe is satisfactory when you dont play other sims, however back to back with other sims rre shows its awkwardness in ffb.

 

[Aaron Schmidt]

RRe is satisfactory when you dont play other sims, however back to back with other sims rre shows its awkwardness in ffb.

I agree with this. I have a Thurstmaster TX, and experience both the floatiness/hovercraft effect, and the over aggressive recentering (which often overshoots the mark, leading to a bit of oscillation). Some cars are worse than others.

If I play R3E exclusively for a few days, I begin to adjust and it isn't as bad (still noticeable and disruptive, but manageable). But, anytime I go to or from another sim (AC, GSCE, rF2, GTR2), it is very obvious and takes a while to readjust. None of the others have these issues and, although they each have their own feel, don't require much of a readjustment period when switching from one to the other.

I spent a few hours over the weekend playing R3E only (ADAC '14, mostly with the McLaren, which I find has less of this problem then most). I had a lot of fun, but these issues were a distraction. Additionally, my wrists and shoulders were a little sore from constantly fighting the centering/oscillating. I'm using settings based on what one of the S3 guys posted (I forget who), but I've tried pretty much every combination imaginable at this point. I've also tried tweaking every setting in the TX control panel.

I also agree with what Brandon Wright posted above that the floatiness is exacerbated by the lack/quietness of tire squeals (I've tweaked the audio levels as well, and still have difficulty hearing tire squeal). I have a feeling that it also has something to do with the visual aspects of the game, but I can't quite put my finger on what. I don't know if it is head movement, a lack thereof, or what, but something about the look when going through a tight turn with a little bit of sliding/slip angle going seems a little off. In total, it just seems like the various senses aren't completely in sync or quite as I'd expect (from other sims and real life).

All in all, I really enjoy the sim and think it has great potential. I just hope they can iron out some of these issues, or at least figure out why they seem to affect (or bother) some and not others. I've not played it as much as I would otherwise, which also means I haven't purchased as many add-ons as I otherwise would have.

 

[Brandon Wright]

I don't know if it is head movement, a lack thereof, or what, but something about the look when going through a tight turn with a little bit of sliding/slip angle going seems a little off. In total, it just seems like the various senses aren't completely in sync or quite as I'd expect (from other sims and real life).

You can adjust the amount of head movement, I have it mapped to my bracket keys [ ] I believe but I forget what the setting is called or where it's located. I found I had to adjust it on a per car basis, some had way too much and some not enough, easy to do once I mapped the keys though.

 

[Aaron Schmidt]

You can adjust the amount of head movement, I have it mapped to my bracket keys [ ] I believe but I forget what the setting is called or where it's located. I found I had to adjust it on a per car basis, some had way too much and some not enough, easy to do once I mapped the keys though.

Cool, thanks. I'll give that a try later today and see how it goes.

 

[Shovas]

I agree it takes some adjusting time when I hop from iRacing to R3E. Hopping from R3E to iRacing I instantly get the feel for the car but R3E makes it tricky. I still play it and get quite a bit of enjoyment out of it. I'm planning on upgrading my G27 wheel to a new wheel soon, so I hope those problems go away.