Wheel settings after update

Peter

who cares
All the old control sets are terminated with the update.

The advised settings are 900° and 30 wheel lock, but we tested and used default wheel driver settings without damper and spring.

For example Thrustmaster T500 60%/100%/100%/0%/0% and TX 75%/100%/100%/0%/0%.

Logitech uses 270° default, so the wheel lock is set to 10 in game.
Feel free to change that to 900°/30.

All wheels that have 900° should use this from now on as a default setting.

The target for the team is to have an automatic rotation/lock for all wheels/cars in the future.
 
Volvo/BMW touring classics are a blast mate!
So heres the thing, each car has its own signature and it is something to be experienced. Each one that is. The best part is that each car is such a blast to drive in its own way. I kept on buying cars just to see what it was like, and everytime I was blown away saying to myself, "If this car is like this, I wonder what this one is like," and it just goes on from there, constantly amazed. I have almost all the cars now. And each one provides an entirely different racing experience that is just so much fun!! Hope that helps.
 
Volvo/BMW touring classics are a blast mate!

So heres the thing, each car has its own signature and it is something to be experienced. Each one that is. The best part is that each car is such a blast to drive in its own way. I kept on buying cars just to see what it was like, and everytime I was blown away saying to myself, "If this car is like this, I wonder what this one is like," and it just goes on from there, constantly amazed. I have almost all the cars now. And each one provides an entirely different racing experience that is just so much fun!! Hope that helps.

Audi 90 Quattro if u want to fear for your virtual life :D

sorry OT

You guys are not helping! :p I guess I'll go with the Audi 90 Quattro. I like scary things. :D
 
Logitech Default is 200 degrees, according to my profiler at least, but each to their own. My concern is about changing the inputs on the wheel and shifter and more importantly my button boxes. I have 2 Layne Sim Button boxes that I want to be able to assign the buttons to different setting changes. On ffb, it feels a little weak, BUT it is smooth, steady and definitely there. My only other concern is when will we get audio chat?
Logitech G27, 2 each Layne Sim Button Boxes, one with a Pro Shift L.E.D. tach, ASUS 780 3 Gb video card, 3 ASUS VG248QE 24" monitors.
 

Shovas

Premium
If you want to increase the feeling for oversteer etc. increase the steering force.
If you want to get more feedback from the road surface increase vertical load.
What force settings should we use to have enough headroom to feel the natural force variations while cornering?

From what I gather the game is outputting much more force than my wheel can handle so through a turn it's over 100% force and that means no spare force to provide the subtle cornering force changes I'm expecting.

Bonus points for not aggravating the ffb center deadzone. :)

Thanks!
 

Shovas

Premium
@Georg Ortner, a question: I notice the muscle strength required to turn the wheels at 10km/h is the same muscle strength required to turn the wheel at 200km/h. This indicates the game is outputting 100% strength (ie. clipping) correct? How can we setup our ffb so that our forces aren't maxed so we have spare forces to apply to subtle road / cornering variations?

Also, is there a force meter in R3E?

Thanks!
 
Guys, can someone please help my to setup my Thrustmaster TX wheel as i'm getting some wired vibration on the wheel and the Forcefeedback is really bad.
I've setup my Thrustamaster profile as Peter suggested but i tried to play with the settings in the game and didn't help at all. If someone could post a screenshot of the forcefeedback setting in the game that would be really nice.
Thank you
 

siranodb

Make love not war!
Just wanted to say, HUGE congrats to Simbin/Sector3. :thumbsup::)

The FFB is night and day compared to the old one. It's really really good, and I haven't tweaked it yet. I'm kinda lost to what settings does what, but I'll figure it out. This update has put R3E on my radar, and I'm really happy that R3E is not dead and is here to stay. Keep it up guys.

Now I need to think wisely to see what should be my first purchase... Any suggestions? :D
Adac gt masters will be a nice pack for 10 euros only.
 

Georg Ortner

Sector3 Studios
Btw, just noticed, Brake Vibration cant set lower 20%. Is it bug?

Works here.

1456048efc852c3c37280770c939ca33.jpg
 
First i would like to congratulate former Simbin Studios with their new company Sector Three Studios. May the force be with you:thumbsup:

This night i bough the ADAC pack for a very nice price:thumbsup:. Just an hour ago i set everything up to have a feel of the new settings. My T500 at 900 degrees 100 / 100 / 0 / 0 as posted in the OP's post. Ingame i only configured my wheel but i did not changed anything about the FFB. Selected the Mercedes SLS AMG GTR3 at Zandvoort and started a practice session. At the first corner i stepped up the gas too early deliberately, too feel how the wheel would react and im very sorry to say that i do not notice any difference between the previous version and this updates version. The very same thing happened: i lost the back-end of the car and while i was already in the spin i felt the FFB telling me something was not right.

Ingame first corner Zandvoort: i steer into the corner. The FFB is strong because it reflects the grip on the tires. As soon as i step too early on the gas, the back tires loose grip while the front tires still have grip. The back-end wants to pivot around the front were there is still grip (mass wants to follow a straight line).
Say that i drive on the very limit of the car at that point. What happens in rF2 and AC is that the FFB loosens up at that point to reflect that the backend wants(!) to pivot. That is the FFB warning and the in ear labyrinth compensation: i feel what the car WANTS(!) to do. At that same point the FFB in R3E is as strong as it is when i steered into the corner. I feel the loss of FFB when im already in a spin. In R3E i have to look what the car wants to do. But im always too late. First i see the over-steer, then i feel the oversteer and next im already in the barrier. In rF2 and AC im able to race on the edge of the limits. With R3E im still guessing.

I never ever drove a real racecar and maybe this is the ultimate reality, i do not know. Hopefully someone can give me advice about the ingame FFB setting so i can feel what a car wants to do.

Greez, Boby ;)
 
Logitech Profiler:
101
0
0
0 (unchecked)
900

Ingame
Wheel lock: 30
Force feedback intensity: 80 (play with this for stronger ffb)
Smoothing: 5
Steering force intensity: 115
Understeer: 100
Vertical load: 115
lateral force: 70
Steering rack: 0

Effects
Engine: 0
Brake: 20
Curb: 20
Shift: 20
 

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