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Porsche Posse (LIVE)

What settings do you play career mode on?

Discussion in 'F1 2010 - The Game' started by chi, Jun 17, 2011.

  1. chi


    Iv had this game Since release but had not really played it much. Now I'm addicted.My setting are:Career year 1. HRT View: furthest outAi: easyTc: onAbs: onRacing line: fullFuel: onTires: onGearbox: autoI came 2nd in the championship because of some very silly mistakes.Career year 2 mclarenView: cockpitAi: professional Tc: onAbs: offRacing line: brakingFuel: onTires: onGearbox: autoNext race Montreal. Best time is qual was 1:13.679 which put me on poleWhat about you?
  2. Expert, all aids off tire wear on, on the first season i had fuel on too, came in 7th then second year came in 5th, third year i have turned the fuel sim off as it seems to give a more even experience and im no alien. Im about half way through season 3 and im placed 5th and even with fuel sim off the nasty tracks with ai are still the same. its all about practice as i am getting better and better now.
  3. Currently in my first season with Toro Rosso, 50% distance, Professional AI and no assists other than the braking line and auto gears (I know, is that all) - planning to turn the line off ASAP, and as I complete each career race I get onto learning that track with no line. It's much easier, actually, to charge corners without that red line making you second-guess yourself*, but on a 50% race with fuel and tyre sim I'm just not consistent enough to get by yet. Saying that, I did get into Q2 on primes in Aus, and started 10th, against Professional AI that's not too bad imo.

    *Got my Bahrain time down under 1.55 without the line, was 1.56.7 before. Not exactly leaderboard-threatening, but improvement is its own reward. Practiced Aus with manual gears as well yesterday, but on a pad it's hard for me. Brake and steer with one hand, accelerate and change gear with the other is not easy to get in muscle memory.
  4. I am 6 races into my 2nd career season driving for HRT doing 100% length races (this will be my last year at this team). I play the PC version of this game and have several important mods installed. First off I have the True AI 1.4 mod, I also have access to the AI toolkit to tweak corners at all the tracks if I find the AI is too fast or too slow in a given corner. Finally I have a mod installed which rubbers in the track as each session progresses. This mod is good, but it is flawed as the rubbered in line resets at the start of each practice and qualifying session meaning I have more grip at the end of P1 than I have at the start of Q3 ... which is brain dead. But it is nice to have at the end of a race as you do notice your grip levels improving. Oh I also have a database mod installed which gives my AI opponents more realistic lap times. The database from CM occasionally would have lower level teams beating top teams in races and in qualifying and well we know Lotus, Virgin and HRT would never beat Red Bull, McLaren or Ferrari.

    I have all driving aids turned off (except a couple). I do not notice a difference between using ABS on or having it off, so might as well turn it off. I don't need the racing line or braking line. I do real world track days in my 911 so I know how to find the racing line (plus this rubber in mod I spoke of develops and you can follow it). I use my paddle shifters to manually change gears. But there are a couple of driver aids I do use (hangs head in shame). I drive with medium traction control turned on as 100% length races are long and this occasionally helps save my bacon. Finally I have the two pit stop aids turned on. Tell you the truth, we lose enough time in the pits in this game the way it holds you up at times, I don't need pitstop headaches.

    Anyway I do 100% length races and usually use the entire 90 minutes of P1 and P2 and the entire 60 minutes of P3 doing 5 lap stints (one out-lap, 3 hot laps followed by my in-lap) chewing up mostly prime tires in these practice sessions. I practice and qualify with fuel and tire sims turned on against the Legend AI. I usually make it to P2, but there are a couple of tracks where I can make it to P3 and others where I can not make it out of P1 in the HRT against the Legend AI. When it comes to the race I turn off fuel sim (it is too much of a handicap in 100% length races) and I turn the AI down to Professional as the True AI 1.4 mod makes the AI much more aggressive on the track than the default game.

    I have scored points in every race in my 2nd season (I just finished Monaco) finishing 5th through 10th but rain helped me in Australia, Malaysia and China (the AI are not that fast in the wet) and I cheated in Cataluyna and Monaco as I raced with tire sim turned off for my races. But I am in Turkey next and based on my experiences from my first season I do not need to race with tire sim turned off anymore. I am sure my streak of finishing in the points will come to an end soon but I even threw away a sure win at China as the 4 AI cars only seconds in front of me in the race all pitted on the last lap (how brain dead can you be CM?) so I let them catch up. I don't want wins I did not earn. To me the secret to getting a better ride (if I do a 3rd season) is in reputation points not in race wins and in the HRT I am not even supposed to be close to points anyway.

    Anyway driving is fun in this game, but the pre-fabricated AI drives me nuts.
  5. PS3 control pad. I have traction control and Abs is it? On. Braking off thats horrible when turned on. Racing line corners only, just to give me a warning to brake lol. I ve played enough to know the tracks now but dont wanna turn it off >.< I play on the hardest com setting, tire wear and fuel on. Races 100%
  6. Logitech G27 wheel, 50% races, (100% isn't to fun normally when the AI is constantly on your ass from qualifying in front of them and they have no fuel) Expert, cockpit. Won my first 2 careers in a Lotus and is winning again in the same Lotus with just 2 races left.
  7. I play Pro AI, all assists off except Medium traction control, manual gears, full damage & tire/fuel on.
  8. Highest difficulty, all aids off, tyre sim on but fuel sim off, cockpit view. Used to do 50% races but now I do 20% as I just want to sprint through the tracks as I had to rebuild my PC so I lost my save game and all my setups.
  9. David O'Reilly

    David O'Reilly
    A bad quali means I can go forwards in the race.

    It brings up one of the best questions.
    my summary is as follows:
    Just my views nothing more!

    Difficulty: Setting difficulty and assist level is where you find the right balance for your current skill, your progression and is decided by what you want to get from the game. You can make it very easy or very hard. You balance the speed of and difficulty of the event with Difficulty settings and your speed with Assists.
    There are essentially two schools of thought. You can a) develop as a driver with realistic car behaviour and start to win as you get faster or b) start winning and gradually reduce assists as you get better. The first method driving realism approach is where you set all at the most realistic and improve your driving while possibly lowering the AI level rather than enhancing your level with assists. These drivers feel they have developed good skills quite quickly without the numbing effect of assists. The second school is the “want to be competitive” school who prefer to use assists to allow achievement of a given standard eg: say a Top 10 position or a podium. More assists and less realistic settings will allow you to compete against faster AI but then are you really?
    One racer suggests that to gauge your correct level of assists one should set them so you have to work to beat your team mate in career mode. If you are thrashing him and have any assists still on then it’s time to reduce them!
    The game is definitely more immersive and more rewarding for the serious driver with less or no assists.

    Personally i went with a hybrid of the two. Yr 1 most assists and Pro AI, Yr 2 Legend AI no assists but auto all sims bar fuel.(Big Jump).
    I like the tyre sim a lot.
    I will only use TCS and ABS to have a level playing field if its a League race where its allowed or TCS if its really wet.

    Bottom line is that no one has any bragging rights outside their own home for results that occur with assists or against any other than Legend AI. It’s your method of getting to that point that you choose.

    I too have done track days and sprint events in sports cars incl 911, 911 turbo, Boxster S, Honda NSX , Subaru WRX STI and 12 hour endurance events in Karts. Traction control kills throttle control skills, but I forgive my993C2 because in 100% races its soooo hard to stay precise and in a 911 traction is so good that its almost impossible to lose traction on throttle- you only have issues when you back off! So the real world track days in your 911 don't prepare you intensly for traction issues.
    Some tracks are easier. Legend Pole is only 1m.17 in Montreal. Some are killers esp Catalunya.
    Racing line is nice when its gone.
  10. Depends on if you are using the game as is from Code Masters out of the box, or if you are using mods. I have a database mod installed and raced in Montreal last night. Pole was in the high 1:13s and I could only muster up 14th on the grid (qualifying against Legend AI, fuel and tire sim turned on) in the high 1:17s using the HRT. The top tier teams qualified in the 1:14s through 1:16s. Mid tier in the 1:17s through 1:18s. Bottom tier teams qualified in the 1:20s.

    But I agree with what you say about "Setting difficulty and assist level is where you find the right balance for your current skill". This is a game and the #1 purpose of the game is to entertain ourselves.
  11. I went with no assists from day 1, all Sims on (except fuel) 50% race length and professional difficulty. I'm now 2/3rds of way through my second season for Torros Rosso and 3rd in WDC 8pts behind 1st place. First season was haaaarrd. Having not played a racing game for years it was tiring trying to get up to speed and learn track layouts. Also, many 'features' of the game hindered me: changing engines in practise cancelling R&D objectives, bothering to use intermediates and the non-existant-for-AI fuel sim. All these things are not clearly explained by the game and made season one much harder than it could have been. It took me about ~100hrs of playing to finally feel I was getting on top of the game. At last feel I am racing against the AI rather than just trying to stay on the track and season two has been way more fun that S1!

    [I'm on PC with wheel].
  12. David O'Reilly

    David O'Reilly
    A bad quali means I can go forwards in the race.

    Its interesting the whole difficulty/assists thing.
    Season 1 was a big learning curve for me. Gane, tracks etc too. I had Pro AI too but had many assists. ABS, TCS, Racing line on corners only.
    Seaon 2 I went Legend AI, All assists off bar auto, all sims on! oh and from 20% to 50% distance.
    The jump was mega. Went from podiums to fighting to make quali 2. I had to turn off thre fuel sim.
    I think Jack Curzon your approach is better, no assists-get the hang of the real car, slow AI down a notch if need be.
    PS just finished Suzuka. Am 7th in WDC and may make 5th. Lotus is 5th in WCC without Jarno scoring a point! Honetly we really should speak to him.
  13. I'm on PC with wheel. I chose a career in 3 seasons. I do 100% length races.
    My setting are: Career year 2 Ferrari; Ai:pro; Tc: on; Abs: off; Racing line: off; Fuel: on; Tires: on;
    Gearbox: auto.
    In first season I used Abs: on, but now I'm trying to make my driving more realistic. I tried driving with Tc: off, but so far it's hard for me. I have some files from the True AI 1.4 mod and use the AI toolkit to balance the speed of AI opponents in the corners. My next race is Valencia, in Montreal my best time in qual was 1:17, but I think it depends on the mods and car settings.
  14. The only assists I use are auto gears and medium traction control, plus fuel sim off. The AI are set to legend; apart from Spain and Monaco, where they are crazy fast. I recently set the rules to realistic after having them on reduced pretty much since I bought the game shorty after it was released. I still get stupid warnings for 'causing a collision' after the AI turns into me.

    I think I would enjoy the game more if I had a wheel and pedals, at the moment I use a control pad as I'm on xbox and am getting fed up of tapping the left thumbstick all the time.
  15. David O'Reilly

    David O'Reilly
    A bad quali means I can go forwards in the race.

    Gareth I have the Madcatz MC2 wheel working on XBox, its just fine. £15.00 ebay
  16. There's no way I'm using the realistic rules setting as there's nothing realistic about them and it's just plain frustrating.
  17. Umm, not sure what to say about that to be honest. It's very cheap for a wheel, how long do you think it will last?

    I changed the rules realistic to make it a bit more challenging; so far it isn't too bad, I'm just more careful when overtaking.
  18. David O'Reilly

    David O'Reilly
    A bad quali means I can go forwards in the race.

    It's lasted about 3 months so far with I suppose 8-9 hours a week racing. They are about £30.00 new, mine was used. Not much to say really. Some of the wheel stuff is perception.
    Regarding rules set to realistic. I haven't had any bad calls i can think of against AI (oh yes 1 Buemi fails to yield under blue flag, tries to race me collides with me and I get drive through). But that aside no others. Realistic rules in my view make you find legal ways to pass thus increasing the challenge. Just ensure Buemis relatives aren't Marshalls.
  19. The only assist i have for the moment is Traction Control and Medium. The rest is off. I´m also trying to play in cockpit view (to have a more realistic feel) but for some reason when playing and Hungary in cockpit view i drive like a super noob lol
  20. I find it really difficult to play manual when not inside the cockpit (I need to see the rev limiter LEDs). But then I find it very hard to follow the track and take corners if I'm not in the T-cam view. Still working on my T-Cam view, while playing manual. I do have the G27 with the LED's, but I find it when I concentrate to take a corner, is amazingly hard to see them. Wish they would've been bigger. I'm also keeping my wheel quite lower, so that makes it a bit more harder.

    Anyway, my new settings are: No assists - full TC, auto (working on manual atm), sim/tire on.