interesting, can you post your CSW V2 setup and best car to test it? would love to try it out
@menos | M6 and
@Zboubi.
(i will post what i run in AC with on my wheel, but I use the CSW Formula Wheel (steel), have not tested the CSW M3 GT2 wheel yet, but maybe different wheels different base setups?)
I start with a vanilla Assetto Corsa setup and vanilla Fanatec driver setting.
Fanatec driver settings:
- leave everything untouched on defaults
CSW v2 wheelbase settings:
SEN 900
FFB 100
DRI 002 (some cars feel better with DRI 001 for a little tighter steering wheel)
FOR 100 (with some cars I use 80 or 90 when using the formula steering wheel, when using the BMW GT wheel, I sometimes raise it up to FOR 120 in some cars)
All other settings on the wheelbase are set to OFF (especially DPR and SPR).
Assetto Corsa settings:
- everything vanilla, not changing a thing except:
- filter 2 - 3% (just to remove possible spikes)
- road effects (turn down to ~ 35 anything higher and they just feel too artificial)
- rumble strip effect, turn it down until the wheel does not clip any longer
I don't use the enhanced understeer effect option.
Now this setup works beautifully with Kunos cars (I like especially the GT3 cars, favorites being the McLaren 650S GT3 and the Mercedes AMG GT3).
There surely will be some clipping but over all it feels tight, realistic and precise.
You can surely get a much, much cleaner FFB effect by turning way down the forces and removing further some of the effects but it then wouldn't feel like a steering wheel in a real car any longer.
An upgrade in realism (and a big upgrade in quality) I guess will only be achieved by going for a powerful direct drive wheel.
I feel the biggest disadvantage with the Fanatec wheel base is how you can feel the belt and gearing in the wheel, which I think is an even bigger problem for the people who prefer to drive with lower forces and smoother effects.
Out of curiosity, what do you have the in-car FFB set to with these settings? I've doubts as to whether my wheel is working correctly (AC is the only sim it feels acceptable with), but I use DRI 002, 100 FOR, and 100% gain and then have to turn the in-car FFB on most cars down to around 50% otherwise the wheel is almost impossible to turn because it's so stiff. Is that normal behavior for a CSW V2 or is your in-car FFB around 100%?
I use with most Kunos cars default per car FFB settings.
With the PX mod I have to turn down the per car FFB settings way, way down to something like ~60-70 % to have similar forces on the wheel but still the PX mod will severely clip the FFB.
I think there is something off here which I currently simply work around by only turning the forces down per car as I don't want to spoil my FFB settings for the excellent Kunos cars which I feel are about as good as I can dial them in at the moment.
The EGT mod btw has a different FFB problem - forces are not as crazy excessive as with the PX mod (I run the EGT cars at ~80% FFB strength per car) but somehow feel a bit more dull, watered down - not as precise as with Kunos cars for a lack of a better description.
I am happy as they are though and really enjoy both mods, mainly as I use the cars to fill proper GT racing fields (now I wish we could race 40+ car fields and multi class races with working AI and I would be in heaven).
I think everyone who enjoys endurance racing should have the EGT and PX mods as a must have. I also love how professional the makers update the mod regularly and keep users in the loop about developments and updates.
For that reason I may very well try out their DTM content, now that I have finally given up on the (sadly) excellent R3E due to their impossible server connectivity and authenticating issues (always when I want a quick race now and then R3E reliably is f…ed - I wish I would not have spent all the money on that content but rather would have bought a redundant set of pedals or a few more wheel rims, …).
