Thrustmaster TX Racing Wheel Ferrari 458 Italia Edition review

[Jari Vinnari]

Thrustmaster TX Racing Wheel Ferrari 458 Italia Edition
Background:
Well...im old...ancient someone would say. My first contact with simracing was Geoff Crammond´s excellent Formula One Grand Prix in 1990´s and since then I have driven numerous driving games with Assetto Corsa being the latest one. I have owned and destroyed several wheels from manufacturer´s like Microsoft, Logitech and Fanatec so I would call myself as a experienced driver with average driving skills.
I have been relatively happy with my Fanatec CSR wheel and Clubsport V1 setup but sometimes you just want to try something new and hopefully better. Fanatec Clubsport Wheel would have been one good choice but it was just too pricey and possible future warranty issues made me look elsewhere. Thrustmaster T500 RS is nice but the newer design, brushless motor and better belt system convinced me to buy 458 Italia wheel. Having owned and destroyed a Logitech G25 in my previous life the newly released Thrustmaster TX 458 for 300 Euro´s was the only real choice for me. Luckily it was Christmas so Santa Claus helped me get this wheel. Thanks Santa, I owe you one...or two.

First impression & some numbers:
"What the .... Why in earth did I buy this piece of toy wheel" was my first thought after opening the box and lifting the unattached wheel. The two things that really striked out badly was the yellow Ferrari logo and the 2-way Manettino switch which really makes the wheel look cheap. The wheel rim building material looks and feels almost the same as found in early 90´s Nissan dashboard´s. Luckily appearances can sometimes be deceptive as the wheel "quality" will grow on you.
The wheel rim weight is approximately 730 gramms and its 28 cm in diameter. The power supply is inside of the base unit which weight is about 3,9 kg compared to Fanatec´s 2,9kg including the wheel but without the external power supply. In PC-mode you have total 13 buttons and a D-pad in your disposal.

Gas and brake pedals are made of metal,base from light plastic and the total weight is approximately 1,36kg. Brake has progressive resistance and the gas pedal feels quite stiff. Pedals connects directly to wheel base and they are not USB compatible.

Wheel can be attached to table/cockpit with good clamping system or more permanently with built-in screw threads. After attaching the steering wheel and making the required firmware update for PC I was ready to Rock´n Roll.

Driving impression´s:
I could feel big difference between the CSR and Thrustmaster TX as soon as I accelerated out of the pits with my rFactor 2 Corvette.In straight line the 458 Italia will give you much more information about the car suspension movement and the bumps on the road. In corners I could feel the change in grip much more clearly and earlier stage than I did with Fanatec CSR. Steering response feels faster, more direct and FFB in whole felt much better. CSR has small FFB deadzone where you dont feel any feedback but with TX you feel the FFB almost whole range of wheels turning range.

With Assetto Corsa the difference between the wheels was smaller but Thrustmaster still feels superior of these two. Again the Thrusmaster feels so accurate,direct and fast to react drivers every steering input. Driving BMW Z4 GT3 with CSR feel´s just little bit boring but the TX wheel made the car more enjoyable and exciting to drive.
Gear leavers are made of strong metal and have nice solid feel to them. They are quite short to allow easy access to back buttons so I needed some time finding right position for my hands and fingers. That ugly Manettino switch works but they really shoud have used better quality switch in that one. Other buttons feel OK but for me the Fanatec has better buttons and the wheel rim in whole feels better. Pedals look and feel quite cheap but surprisingly they work much better than their appearance might suggest.

Conclusion: Connect the dots
FFB quality and the base unit are definitely the best part of this wheel . Driving with this wheel is true pleasure because FFB is strong, detailed and fast. Thrustmaster really should have used better quality materials with the rim and the pedals. Luckily you can always use Thrustmaster T500 RS add-on wheels and pedals or use USB pedals from another manufacturer. Thrustmaster plans to release improved T3PA pedals which includes a clutch pedal. I think this package is OK starting point for newcomer but I would definitely buy new pedals if I was serious about simracing. Im relatively happy with the rim so currently I have no plans to buy the 100€ Ferrari 458 GTE wheel add-on which should be much better in quality wise.

The GOOD:
+ FFB is very good
+ Base is made of strong, good quality plastic
+ Many buttons, even behind the wheel
+ Accurate and reacts fast to drivers input
+ Good clamp that will stop the base from moving.
+ Gear leavers are made of thick metal and changing gear feels quite good
+ Ability to use add-on wheels and pedals

The BAD:
- Pedals are light weight,looks and feels cheap. Surprisingly they do work moderately well
- Wheel rim looks cheap and the build quality should have been better. It does work & feels better than first impression might suggest
- Loud fan under stress
- No power switch
- USB cable can't be removed
- No clutch pedal

05.02.2014 UPDATE:

My Thrustmaster TX is dead so rest in peace my friend...you will be sorely missed.
But luckily his twin brother has arrived.

One morning about 10 days ago my wheel went completely dead, no lights or any wheel movement at all so the electronics must have failed.
I contacted my local dealer and they replaced my wheel in 10 days . Whole process could have been 2-3 days shorter but they didnt have the wheel on stock so Im very happy how fast they replaced my wheel. I also e-mailed Thustmaster twice and both time they replied in 24 hours so no complaints about their reply speed.
According to my local dealer over 10% TX wheels have been returned back for warranty repairs. Other users have also experienced wheel failures so there seems to be slight quality problem with first batch of the TX Wheel.

I still like the wheel very much.

 

[Pär Öqvist]

What is the idea with the wheel base buttons btw besides the mode switcher for inverted pedals? They are duplicates to wheel buttons. For aftermarket rims or just the xbox start and select button. But then why would Thrustmaster put them the same as wheel buttons?

For the same mysterious reason they would put the GTE paddles the same as the static paddles?

I decided to experiment running the wheel with no force feedback. Or just about putting periodic forces to zero. Sadly it still run so hot the fan kicks in. Is there any setting you could run where it would run cool enough?

 

[Pär Öqvist]

I would install the firmware just to be safe. And don´t discount the stock rim to fast due to it´s poor first impression. If you think the rubber is to hard which it´s you could try gloves like this to get a more premium feel http://winecountrymotorsports.com/product_info.php/products_id/1532

I just took the first store google gave me may find them cheaper in other places

 

[Domenic Alfano]

I installed the firmware. Just would not let me do it in boot loader mode

 

[Blkout]

I wouldn´t say they are overkill for most people. Important to only talk for ourselves. Most real word racers have to deal with torque way higher then what the T500RS or TX can bring. Depending on car how much power steering assists there is of course.

I know many that overdrive the T500RS and TX wheel. Running the TX at 75 % it regularly clips in rFactor 2 running the default 1.00 setting for example. It´s not exactly brutal even on the light 280 mm F458 italia rim and that is coming from a weak computer nerd

As for deadzone the Thrustmasters have it also. In some sims you can overcome this by setting a minimum torque settings like rFactor 2 and iRacing for example. Mean more oscillation on the straights which is probably the primary treason for the deadzones but unless you like to take a brake it´s not really work to keep it straight.

Yes, but many sim racers use no FFB at all or still using DFGT's, G25's and G27's which is considerably weaker than a T500 and TX so when I say its still powerful enough for 99% of sim racers, that statement is still true even if you prefer it stronger. Sim racing isn't the same as real racing so comparing the FFB from a sim wheel to a real wheel in a race car is a bit different. Very few people are using Bodnar's, Frex's, ECCI's, etc. so a T500 or TX is capable of providing more FFB than most people ever need.

According the wheel check program, there's no real deadzone with the Thrustmaster T500 or TX, there's FFB almost immediately, however some may claim there's a deadzone based on the fact that the FFB is weak with a small signal, but unless you're using one of the very expensive wheels above that have over the top FFB, then every wheel is going to have a small zone around middle where the FFB is weaker than it is at the maximum degree of rotation but that should be normal, not considered a con. The G27 has a real mechanical deadzone because of the dual motors and its quite obvious, not the same as the T500 or TX at all.

 

[Blkout]

I installed the firmware. Just would not let me do it in boot loader mode

What is boot loader mode? Firmware can be updated through the control panel and it will also tell you which version you're running. v45 is the current firmware.

 

[Blkout]

Well I just picked up the wheel, though the rim sucks compared to the gt2 rim, the ffb is miles better. I didn't install the firmware in boot loader mode but the wheel seems to be working OK. Hope that doesn't make a difference. Thx for the input

I think you will get used to the stock rim pretty quickly and find that its not nearly as bad as you think. You seem to feel the same way everyone does when they first put their hands on it. After a few hours almost everyone agrees, its not nearly as bad as their first impression. That being said, I do like the GTE rim, a LOT and I will likely not go back the stock rim.

 

[Blkout]

What is the idea with the wheel base buttons btw besides the mode switcher for inverted pedals? They are duplicates to wheel buttons. For aftermarket rims or just the xbox start and select button. But then why would Thrustmaster put them the same as wheel buttons?

For the same mysterious reason they would put the GTE paddles the same as the static paddles?

I decided to experiment running the wheel with no force feedback. Or just about putting periodic forces to zero. Sadly it still run so hot the fan kicks in. Is there any setting you could run where it would run cool enough?

Are you having trouble with your wheel running hot? My fan kicks on but only after about 15-20 minutes and its certainly not loud.

 

[Domenic Alfano]

Haven't mounted it yet. I have an obutto ozone and the lip on the bottom of the wheel makes it an awkward driving position. I have to modify a bit so that the wheel sits flush on the mounting plate. Maybe a small piece of wood or something.

 

[Domenic Alfano]

Is there a way to switch sensitivity on the fly?

 

[Pär Öqvist]

If the majority of the TX users run ffb to the point it clips no you can´t say a majority find it has enough torque. The G27 or DFP GT users are irrelevant in this case. That is just an assumption you make

Fan kicks in after 15 min and there just seem to be one mode for it full speed. As loud or louder then the stock T500RS fan. TX may need a fan mod also. I do appreciate that it stops just about the minute you stop racing though instead of going on forever and ever and ever

 

[drivatar]

Hi Guys, I just got the TX and I am pretty happy with it but I have a question as I am new to sim racing and wheels with force feedback.

I bought an Xbox one with Forza 5 and have been playing with the gamepad till now, I am loving sim racing more a more so I decided to get the wheel to play Forza 5 but also planning to upgrade my PC later and try iRacing, Rfactor 2 and so on...

Back on topic, my main issue is that I get used to the vibration of the pad triggers as it is a pretty useful feature TBH. It helps you to avoid blocking when braking or spining when accelerating (especially from slow corners), I mean, when the triggers start vibration you know you have to take care and be gentle with the "pedals"...

My question is, I miss that help now with the TX, and I don't know whether it is a problem with my wheel feedback or not. For instance I can feel the grip (depending on the stiffness) on the turns, the kerbs and so on... but I neither feel when I am starting to loose traction (or wheel spin the tyres) out of slow corners nor when I block the tyres under braking (I was hoping my wheel to vibrate somehow so I could manage how much trottle I apply or how deep I go with the brake pedal)...

Any thoughts and advice would be welcome! ;-)

 

[Blkout]

Drivatar, you will feel your vehicles wheels slipping when cornering when the TX starts to lose FFB. You will have a steady FFB push on the wheel until traction is lost at which point the wheel FFB's will suddenly feel a lot softer. The reason for this is that when your vehicle wheels have lost traction, maximum friction is lost and you are now sliding which means less force in the TX wheel.

Its a big adjustment going from a gamepad to a wheel and I can't even promise that you will go faster with a wheel, but its a lot more fun and immersive.

 

[Blkout]

If the majority of the TX users run ffb to the point it clips no you can´t say a majority find it has enough torque. The G27 or DFP GT users are irrelevant in this case. That is just an assumption you make

Fan kicks in after 15 min and there just seem to be one mode for it full speed. As loud or louder then the stock T500RS fan. TX may need a fan mod also. I do appreciate that it stops just about the minute you stop racing though instead of going on forever and ever and ever

I don't even know why I bother replying to you. No matter what's said, you always feel like your opinion is the right one. Certainly if you've spent enough time on any racing forum, you've seen that most wheel users are using DFGT's, G25's and G27's with much less FFB and you just say those users are irrelevant because it doesn't coincide with the point you're trying to make that the T500 and TX FFB aren't strong enough. You are in the minority and rather than just admit that, you just continue to put down the T500 and TX because they don't provide the strength of a real life race car. Its pretty rare to hear a T500 or TX user complaining that the FFB isn't strong enough.

There are so many different fans in the T500 over the years, maybe you just have a quiet one. The GT6 blue box T500 has a near silent fan, mine is a GT5 white box T500 and its considerably louder than my TX.

 

[drivatar]

You will feel your vehicles wheels slipping when cornering when the TX starts to lose FFB. You will have a steady FFB push on the wheel until traction is lost at which point the wheel FFB's will suddenly feel a lot softer. The reason for this is that when your vehicle wheels have lost traction, maximum friction is lost and you are now sliding which means less force in the TX wheel.

Its a big adjustment going from a gamepad to a wheel and I can't even promise that you will go faster with a wheel, but its a lot more fun and immersive.

Thanks man for your quick response, so you don't think my TX has any problem? (I would be glad to hear it).

I don't have experience with wheels and that's why I am asking, I don't mind to be slower with the wheel (even though I think I will match my times with pad with time and practice) as the general "experience" (inmersion and fun factor) is way better and it diserves the investment, I can say now that with a Gamepad you Play, but with a Wheel you Drive...

My main gripe is that I can not feel wheel spin out of slow corners or during a race start (I mean, once I centered the ring) and the same can be applied under braking with locking tires (with a straight wheel also), I was hoping to feel some vibration/indication in those cases so I could manage how much 'pedal' I apply, I guess it will be a matter of practice to know how far you can go in any situation...

Cheers! ;-)

 

[Pär Öqvist]

Bikout I am certainly not out for a flame war I think I made it clearer then most I am stating my personal opinion. I have not suggested I could talk for others and what they like as much as you have.

I have absolutely no idea where you get the notion I am talking down on T500RS or TX or whatever? I just don´t find them flawless I am not here to hype any products just offering my 2cents and get ideas on how to improve my simrig .

You don´t see the logic that if you run a TX or T500RS to the point where they are constantly clipping in high speed corners and you thus loose ffb info or get a worse feel they may have preferred a wheel with higher peak capabilities getting the chance?

Most that do the jump from G27 to T500RS for example don´t go back again doesn´t prove anything

As for fan I initially had the top mounted fan on the T500RS. I then got it replace for the side mounted ones. It´s quite a bit better then the stock fan in cooling and noise factor. TX fan is similar to the stock fan with a quite high pitched whine so yes I do find that an issue because otherwise I could have a perfectly stealthy setup when not running ffb. That is to say it would be quite quiet even when using ffb.

@drivatar try braking while steering if you can feel it then you do have a deadzone to deal with. Or where the ffb input is so weak it can´t really give resistance to the wheel. In some sims like rFactor 2 and iRacing you can set the min torque or min ffb so it reacts quicker.

I recon they do this primarily to avoid heavy oscillations when going straight. TX do this a bit more as it has less damping (which is a pro overall) which may be why the deadzone do feel a bit larger in general. If I run the min torque at 5,5 % on the T500RS I can visually see the wheel moving back and forth. On the TX I can only feel it touching the wheel.

 

[drivatar]

@drivatar try braking while steering if you can feel it then you do have a deadzone to deal with. Or where the ffb input is so weak it can´t really give resistance to the wheel. In some sims like rFactor 2 and iRacing you can set the min torque or min ffb so it reacts quicker.

I recon they do this primarily to avoid heavy oscillations when going straight. TX do this a bit more as it has less damping (which is a pro overall) which may be why the deadzone do feel a bit larger in general. If I run the min torque at 5,5 % on the T500RS I can visually see the wheel moving back and forth. On the TX I can only feel it touching the wheel.

Thanks man, I have to try that. I know I have some little deadzone in the steering on my wheel setup so perhaps that can be the problem.

Then, should I feel in the wheel when I am over braking or applying too much throttle even on a straight line?

Cheers! ;-)

 

[Blkout]

Thanks man, I have to try that. I know I have some little deadzone in the steering on my wheel setup so perhaps that can be the problem.

Then, should I feel in the wheel when I am over braking or applying too much throttle even on a straight line?

Cheers! ;-)

I'm sure the wheel is fine, its just a different experience than using a gamepad controller. It takes a little time to get used to the feedback you get from a wheel. How the game provides that feedback is also a big part of it. Forza 5's FFB is certainly not bad but its not as good as Assetto Corsa at telling you what the car is doing.

You definitely don't want any deadzone in the wheel. Go to your profile and then conroller, then advanced and make sure you eliminate deadzones. I also prefer the vibration setting at 100% and FFB at 50%.

 

[drivatar]

I'm sure the wheel is fine, its just a different experience than using a gamepad controller. It takes a little time to get used to the feedback you get from a wheel. How the game provides that feedback is also a big part of it. Forza 5's FFB is certainly not bad but its not as good as Assetto Corsa at telling you what the car is doing.

You definitely don't want any deadzone in the wheel. Go to your profile and then conroller, then advanced and make sure you eliminate deadzones. I also prefer the vibration setting at 100% and FFB at 50%.

Thanks Sir!

Definitely I will eliminate all deadzones on my setup. I know it will take time to learn how to drive with a wheel (curiously, haha) when you are used to a gamepad, but you know, I am enjoying so much every single minute...

My current PC is not powerful enough so my plan this year is to stick with Forza 5 and probably will buy Project Cars for Xbox One either, however next year I will renew my PC so I will be able to start with real simulators as iRacing, RFactor 2 and Asseto Corsa (even thought I never tried, I heard sim racing is much better and realistic on the PC)...

Cheers! ;-)

 

[Blkout]

Thanks Sir!

Definitely I will eliminate all deadzones on my setup. I know it will take time to learn how to drive with a wheel (curiously, haha) when you are used to a gamepad, but you know, I am enjoying so much every single minute...

My current PC is not powerful enough so my plan this year is to stick with Forza 5 and probably will buy Project Cars for Xbox One either, however next year I will renew my PC so I will be able to start with real simulators as iRacing, RFactor 2 and Asseto Corsa (even thought I never tried, I heard sim racing is much better and realistic on the PC)...

Cheers! ;-)

Forza 5 is actually good for a console racer, it really is, but in my opinion, games such as Assetto Corsa and possibly iRacing are better in regards to FFB. I think GameStock Car Extreme and rFactor 2 are right there behind those two, and RaceRoom Racing Experience is similar to Forza 5 in regards to FFB. Strictly my opinion though and some people consider rFactor 2 the holy grail of FFB, I just don't agree with that personally.

 

[Domenic Alfano]

Is there a way to adjust.sensitivity on the fly