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Start with Wet or Dry setups?

Discussion in 'F1 2010 - The Game' started by D3ATHBR1NG3R96, Jun 19, 2011.

  1. I'm currently doing my 1st season in a Lotus. I am racing at Spa in Belgium. Everytime I race there it rains and soaks the trac about half way through the race. I was wondering if I should start with the dry setup and option tyres and then change to the intermediates or start with the wet setup and option tyres and then swap to the wet tyres. Sorry if this has been posted before But the search didn't come up with anything.
  2. I'd start on a DRY setup with OPTION tyres then switch to Intermediates or Wets when it rains.

    Use the OPT Types to get a lead then once the track gets wet the AI will struggle & if your easy with your throttle out of corners & not too aggressive on the rumble strips you should have and easy race :)
  3. Dry as the AI always use the default standard top speed downforce. If you go for wet then you'll be torn on the straights. When it starts becoming hard for grip around corners press the wing + button 2 or 3 times.
  4. What does hitting the wing + button 2 or 3 times do? My understanding is that there are 2 wing positions: wing + and wing - and hitting wing + more than once does nothing.
  5. If you hit it more then once I think you get even more downforce. The animation is there as well as the dial being turned.
  6. Start with a dry setup on option tyres. You can maybe add 1 point to front wing or move the ballast forwards 10% to improve grip when the track does become wet, but you will be compromising a bit of speed on the dry track. It depends, if it is just light rain then stick with the dry setup, if it is a high chance of rain or heavy rain then make those changes. The laps are very long at Spa so if you lose a gamble you will pay dearly.

    Once the track starts to get wet just go straight to the wet tyres, the intermediates have a very narrow number of laps where they are the optimal tyre in this game.

    Oh, and don't forget to turn the engine to cruise.

  7. No its not
  8. Really? I always put it up by at least 2 when it rains. How did you come to this conclusion? :S
  9. Actually i find that with most setups, what you need to do is just to adjust the front wing to increase its downforce, turn the throttle mapping to standard or cruise if you find that your car keeps wheel spinning.

    I used to have a set of Wet setups but now, i purely focused on Dry and do the above changes when the track get wet.
  10. The actual cars in 2010 had a system that allowed the wing to be set in a higher position by the driver - this was intended to allow the following car to overcome loss of front grip and increase the chances of an overtake. That didn't work, but being able to set an extra bit of front wing did have its uses. Long story short, we know there's only one 'up' position in the game, because that's what was on the 2010 cars.
  11. Woops! XD. I thought you could but now I can't because of the physiological effect!
  12. David O'Reilly

    David O'Reilly
    A bad quali means I can go forwards in the race.

    The good news is that the AI at Spa in the wet are a bit slow. I won there in the Lotus in Expert mode season 2/7. I have had some success with creating a wet setup the formula:
    Start with Dry Setup then: Two clicks more wing, Two clicks off top speed, two clicks less camber, two clicks softer springs and roll bar.If your race is starting dry ignore the first two as you need the top speed.
    The default engineers setup has camber quite conservative (1.30/3.00 I think). If you stay with that its ok in the wet. You don't want big camber (like say -1.40-1.50) as the cornering G and lean angle won't bring the tyre into optimum contact.
    If the race gets wet at much later than 1/3 distance you should start on primes as this will save you a stop. (+30 sec at Spa) Your options will be shot afetr quali and 1/3 dist. Ignore inters they do nothing for you in the game. Wets are as fast in damp conditions, faster in wet, and OK in dry untill gone.