SLI-M Overloading??

I'm having a problem with my SLI-M.
I've always had 1 open section and everything worked fantastically, than my Frex 3B + 1A board crapped out on me so I connected my Frex Shift + to the last open slot. Now the SLI board is super dim (I've estimated it to be around 50%) even though it's set at 100% in the options.
Is there a way to power the SLI-M directly rather than using usb to power it? The only other options I've thought of is either getting rid of a few buttons *insert sad face here* or trying to get the little Frex board working again (even though the connectors suck with how small most wires are). I did solder some bigger single strand wires to the end of the Shift+ connector, so I don't know if that would help. But like I said in my other post about my Frex controller not working, in the Windows gaming controller settings it showed the buttons working but they would not work within rFactor.

Like usual, any input is super appreciated.

Thanks
Gary
 
Hi Gary

Might sound obvious, but have you tried connecting it to a 'Powered USB Hub' ? It often solves problems like yours, the more usb devices connected, the more strain on motherboards hub/usb plugs.

Worth a go ;)
 
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It is... Maybe I should have wrote that in the first part.
I'm not sure it's the hub, because like I said it was not until I plugged into the very last slot on the SLI-M that it happened. My SPI-D and GI-Max are not affected and there on the same hub.
Do you think I should just look at a BU0836X? Than I could always add more buttons if I wanted to, plus it would lighten the load on the SLI-M.
 
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Did you try to connect it directly to the USB slots on the back of your computer (those fitted directly on the motherboard).
Those tend have more power than the ones on the front.
Have a look what other devices are using the USB port closes to the one you are using, they share the power in pairs of 2.
So make sure it's only a printer cable next to it, that will not cause much power drop.
Some keyboards, mouses & joystick devices take more power than others, much more.
So keep those away from that port.
The load on the SLI-M for the buttons is almost none.
So getting another Bodnar board won't really help in the brightness.
It's just some contacts that get connected, that won'd dim your leds.
Many modern motherboards have a setting in the BIOS that allows you to put out a little bit more power on the USB bus.
Maybe that can help too.

Good luck, if none of the above works let me know...
I might know a few other tips.
 
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Ok. I'm going to bring this back up.
I guarantee it has nothing to do with my hub, my computer, my buttons, anything to do with me. I only have momentary buttons plugged into it, and my Frex Shift +. Every slot us full, but not every connector has a button on it. (the 3 cable with 2 button + the ground, but not all have 2 buttons on it).
I can literally in game unplug the usb cable in the back of the SLI-M, re plug it in and the thing lights up to like +200%. But as soon as I exit back to the pits and then re-enter the game, the SLI-M is back to like 30% brightness.
Any tips?
 
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Can I "bump" on the forum or is that not allowed? Honestly I don't really know what a "bump" is. Is it just to put it to the top of the list for more interest? I should probably read the rules.
 
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Brian, it almost sounds to me like Gary is having an issue with a weak power supply. I say this because of when he loses the brightness of his display.

@Gary, have you tried a different power supply in the system, one that has a higher wattage rating in the PC? Perhaps you could unplug non-essential devices temporarily to test that the issue isn't the power supply. Things like extra hard drive, DVD drive, USB printer etc can be disconnected with no issues if they are only being disconnected to test the available power.
 
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Brian, it almost sounds to me like Gary is having an issue with a weak power supply. I say this because of when he loses the brightness of his display.

@Gary, have you tried a different power supply in the system, one that has a higher wattage rating in the PC? Perhaps you could unplug non-essential devices temporarily to test that the issue isn't the power supply. Things like extra hard drive, DVD drive, USB printer etc can be disconnected with no issues if they are only being disconnected to test the available power.


Deffo worth a try Gary....... Nice one Jim (I really should have thought of that lol)
 
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I'm running off a laptop. I have a few things I wanted to try, I know it didn't start until I had to add the frex shift + into the mix (because the frex board sucks with such small gauge wire from the shifter, and the board kinda didn't work great either).
Anyways, I got myself a new (much nicer) laptop the other day and it will be replacing the one I used for rFactor. Obviously would rather have a powerhouse PC, but there's not much spare $ just for me to just race. I hope to eventually get everything going, and then I'll see if it still dims. Kinda heck-tick around here, haven't got much cockpit time in quite a while.
 
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